$15 Monitor 7Cs

Posts: 126
edited January 6 in Vintage Speakers
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About 3 weeks ago I found a wrecked pair of 7s locally for $15. Both woofer were frozen and the cabinets looked pretty bad. I wanted to try veneering some speakers so I bought them.

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Comments

  • Posts: 733
    15 dollars in that condition? Yeah that's about right. :o
  • Posts: 126
    zq2qlmmtmktk.jpeg

    Stripped off the ugly old vinyl and installed hurricane nuts
  • Posts: 126
    edited January 6
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    Patched up all the dented corners
  • Posts: 28,937
    I dig the veneer!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • Posts: 126
    VR3 wrote: »
    I dig the veneer!

    Thanks !

    ueghv5la1ahr.jpeg

    This was my first time veneering. I tried as best as I could to keep the grain flowing from one panel to the next. I’m pretty happy with the results.
  • Posts: 462
    Nice work!!! They look great!
    <3 my 3.1TLs

    I will fix your shifted magnets for free. :)
  • Posts: 302
    They look great! Now try your hand at repairing the mid woofers. You can do it!
  • Posts: 126
    edited January 6
    I’ll leave woofer repair to lawdogg 😂

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    I don’t know what these speaker went through before I got them but I’m sure it was rough. The magnet on one was totally busted. Never seen that before. The other the cone messed up. Pretty sure not even lawdogg could fix these 😂
    Post edited by DeRod on
  • Posts: 126
    edited January 18
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    Finished the veneering. Still needs a little cleaning and sanding but mostly done.

    Now I need to figure out what stain would look nice.
  • Posts: 51,032
    Use a dye, they are transparent. Wiping stains are opaque.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Posts: 126
    edited January 18
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    .. was trying to decide between those.
    The gel most closely resembled the original Polk vinyl veneer color ..

    What type of dye?
  • Posts: 51,032
    There are a number of dyes made for coloring wood. Some are a powder that you mix up yourself, some are ready to go. Some are alcohol based and others are water based. Some are meant to sprayed directly onto the wood, then clear coated while others you should add to a clear coat and spray the mix. Some are ok to wipe on.

    My favorite is ILVA. It's highly concentrated and must be sprayed. Some you could probably get away with wiping are Transtint and General.

    Howard's products are crap. You'll never find their stuff in a pro shop.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Posts: 51,032
    This is a good example of the difference between a dye and a wiping stain.
    panyasxralbc.jpg
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Posts: 126
    Yes I see what you mean. The dye looks richer. I will definitely consider that on my next project.

    I ended up using the gel. So far so good.

    Also got the crossovers recapped and ready to go.

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    For the crossover I used all Jantzen caps and a Jantzen resistor.
  • Posts: 51,032
    edited January 19
    It's really the clarity of dyes that give it the advantage. They give a sense of depth and movement to the wood grain when you move around the wood. On something like tiger maple it's magical really.

    Check out the 4:40 mark.
    https://youtu.be/DLEpJBvQbxs?feature=shared
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Posts: 126
    Awesome video. That maple with the dye mesmerizing like 3d. After seeing that I am definitely going that route on my next project.

  • Posts: 126
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    That’s what it’s looking like after one coat of the gel.
  • Posts: 10,479
    Speaker looks very nice so far, nice work on this project. Something to feel proud of.
    I disabled signatures.
  • Posts: 10,479
    @F1nut - Jesse, great finishing tips and knowledge here, as usual. Thanks for sharing. That was a great YouTube link, too.

    Hey, what's that wood finishing stuff that you don't leave in used balled up rags sitting next to a pile of tinder in a wood shop?
    I disabled signatures.
  • Posts: 126
    msg wrote: »
    Speaker looks very nice so far, nice work on this project. Something to feel proud of.

    Thanks for the words of encouragement 😃

    This has been a learning experience and I’ve had a ton of fun working on this.
  • Posts: 51,032
    msg wrote: »
    @F1nut - Jesse, great finishing tips and knowledge here, as usual. Thanks for sharing. That was a great YouTube link, too.

    Hey, what's that wood finishing stuff that you don't leave in used balled up rags sitting next to a pile of tinder in a wood shop?

    All of the wiping oils, such as boiled linseed, Watco, etc. You should soak the rags with water, then lay them flat outside to completely dry.

    I've never seen oil soaked rags combust, but have heard many horror stories.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Posts: 51,032
    DeRod wrote: »
    7jd9zbyz9nxs.jpeg

    That’s what it’s looking like after one coat of the gel.

    Looking good. A suggestion, unless you want to make the color darker use clear gel for the additional coats. Even if you want to use additional coats of the colored gel it's a good idea for the final coat to be clear.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Posts: 126
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    Like that ? ☝️
  • Posts: 51,032
    edited January 19
    Yes. The clear will add depth. If desired and after the gel has fully cured, say at least a week, use 0000 steel wool to rub out the finish. This will make the finish look and feel silky smooth. Rub in the direction of the grain using gentle pressure and be mindful of the edges/corners as you don't want to cut through them.

    If you have some veneer left over, color and clear coat it to make a rub out practice piece. Rubbing out with steel wool is not hard, but for a first timer a little practice won't hurt.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Posts: 126
    Ordered it !

    Working with veneer really has made me appreciate wood a lot more. Just one cost of the gel and the wood now has a bit of depth and gleam.

    I am going to do one more coat of the dark gel and call it quits till next weekend when I have the clear.

    BTW - one of the things I learned. Having the right tools helps a lot. My go to tool was the scraper without it I’m sure this would have much more difficult. I tried using the j roller but not as good as the scraper.

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  • Posts: 126
    edited January 19
    Ok ..so I didn’t mention how I applied the gel. I probably did it all wrong. I used the 0000 steel wool to apply the gel and after it dried I buffed it out with paper towels.

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  • Posts: 51,032
    edited January 19
    Use soft cotton rags to apply and wipe off. Do not use steel wool to apply it and paper towels leave fuzz/fibers.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Posts: 25,994
    0000 steel wool to rub out the finish. This will make the finish look and feel silky smooth. Rub in the direction of the grain using gentle pressure and be mindful of the edges/corners as you don't want to cut through them.
    After that my woods teacher had us apply Johnson's hard paste wax with the 0000 steel wool, let sit awhile and buff off with a flannel cloth. The shine was deep!

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