7C Beef Up help
inanortherntown
Posts: 32
Hi all
Very new here, but have lurked for some time. I just came into a set of Monitor 7Cs, and plan on getting the tweeters swapped. That said, I’d really like to have the crossovers kitted out, with proper sonicaps and such. Being solder-hesitant (to put it mildly…I don’t want to jack these things up), I’m wondering if the collective group conscience could direct me toward a trusted tech in MN or thereabouts. I checked with Midwest Speaker, and while they’d do the work, they use Solens caps and weren’t too keen on deviating from that.
Optimally, I’d like to do the xovers, and any other refurbish work while they’re opened up. I’m powering them with a Yamaha CA 610 II. Thanks much!
Very new here, but have lurked for some time. I just came into a set of Monitor 7Cs, and plan on getting the tweeters swapped. That said, I’d really like to have the crossovers kitted out, with proper sonicaps and such. Being solder-hesitant (to put it mildly…I don’t want to jack these things up), I’m wondering if the collective group conscience could direct me toward a trusted tech in MN or thereabouts. I checked with Midwest Speaker, and while they’d do the work, they use Solens caps and weren’t too keen on deviating from that.
Optimally, I’d like to do the xovers, and any other refurbish work while they’re opened up. I’m powering them with a Yamaha CA 610 II. Thanks much!
Comments
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One of the guys here that did crossover work has retired.
You definitely do not want Solen caps in them. Do you have any electronics/audio repair shops around you other than Midwest?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Hopefully you're not swapping in another set of SL1000's.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Hopefully you're not swapping in another set of SL1000's.
Nope. Plan would be to swap for RDO 194 -
RD0(zero)194-1Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
inanortherntown wrote: »
You can do that, the hole is different between the two. The SL1000 hole is oval and smaller. The hole will need to relieved both sides to allow the RD-0194 tabs to not be pushed into the magnet. The screw holes are just slightly off, enough to mess with the new faceplate. Best to probably use hurricane nuts, might also fill the old screw holes with epoxy first. Others with more experience might have a better option. -
Isn’t it RD-0194?Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
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MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
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inanortherntown wrote: »
You can do that, the hole is different between the two. The SL1000 hole is oval and smaller. The hole will need to relieved both sides to allow the RD-0194 tabs to not be pushed into the magnet. The screw holes are just slightly off, enough to mess with the new faceplate. Best to probably use hurricane nuts, might also fill the old screw holes with epoxy first. Others with more experience might have a better option.
You can adapt the RD0 housing to the SL1000 plate also. Just need to drill/dremel the magnet holes on the SL plate inwards a couple thousandths inch.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
I was not aware of that. You'll still need to make a bit of room at the sides to accommodate the wire connection. When I tried to move to the sl2000 from the sl1000 I found this out the hard way.inanortherntown wrote: »
You can do that, the hole is different between the two. The SL1000 hole is oval and smaller. The hole will need to relieved both sides to allow the RD-0194 tabs to not be pushed into the magnet. The screw holes are just slightly off, enough to mess with the new faceplate. Best to probably use hurricane nuts, might also fill the old screw holes with epoxy first. Others with more experience might have a better option.
You can adapt the RD0 housing to the SL1000 plate also. Just need to drill/dremel the magnet holes on the SL plate inwards a couple thousandths inch.
The way the sl1000 tweeter and peerless connect, the connection is in the lower radius of the oval.
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1/2" round file-rasp knocks that task out in seconds.
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
I was not aware of that. You'll still need to make a bit of room at the sides to accommodate the wire connection. When I tried to move to the sl2000 from the sl1000 I found this out the hard way.inanortherntown wrote: »
You can do that, the hole is different between the two. The SL1000 hole is oval and smaller. The hole will need to relieved both sides to allow the RD-0194 tabs to not be pushed into the magnet. The screw holes are just slightly off, enough to mess with the new faceplate. Best to probably use hurricane nuts, might also fill the old screw holes with epoxy first. Others with more experience might have a better option.
You can adapt the RD0 housing to the SL1000 plate also. Just need to drill/dremel the magnet holes on the SL plate inwards a couple thousandths inch.
The way the sl1000 tweeter and peerless connect, the connection is in the lower radius of the oval.
It sounds better than the RDO plastic too.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
inanortherntown wrote: »
You can do that, the hole is different between the two. The SL1000 hole is oval and smaller. The hole will need to relieved both sides to allow the RD-0194 tabs to not be pushed into the magnet. The screw holes are just slightly off, enough to mess with the new faceplate. Best to probably use hurricane nuts, might also fill the old screw holes with epoxy first. Others with more experience might have a better option.
You can adapt the RD0 housing to the SL1000 plate also. Just need to drill/dremel the magnet holes on the SL plate inwards a couple thousandths inch.
Thanks all. This sounds like it may be the route to go, as it avoids altering the cabinet. Not too clear on where the magnet holes are on the SL1000? This is new to me but I’m trying.
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inanortherntown wrote: »inanortherntown wrote: »
You can do that, the hole is different between the two. The SL1000 hole is oval and smaller. The hole will need to relieved both sides to allow the RD-0194 tabs to not be pushed into the magnet. The screw holes are just slightly off, enough to mess with the new faceplate. Best to probably use hurricane nuts, might also fill the old screw holes with epoxy first. Others with more experience might have a better option.
You can adapt the RD0 housing to the SL1000 plate also. Just need to drill/dremel the magnet holes on the SL plate inwards a couple thousandths inch.
Thanks all. This sounds like it may be the route to go, as it avoids altering the cabinet. Not too clear on where the magnet holes are on the SL1000? This is new to me but I’m trying.
Clear as mud, right on the front bezel. The four bolt closest to the tweeter diaphragm.
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So dremel these down, and remove the magnets from the RD0 replacements and they should drop in, using the existing SL housing? I’m gonna try it. Why the heck not
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Sorry these
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inanortherntown wrote: »So dremel these down, and remove the magnets from the RD0 replacements and they should drop in, using the existing SL housing? I’m gonna try it. Why the heck not
Use a hex wrench of the right size to remove bolts. DO NOT do this until you have new RD-0194 tweeters. This will ruin the sl1000 tweeter since the voice coils leads are under the black lines on the face.
A small round file is what I would use to make the holes align up with the new tweeter.
Hopefully you're mechanically inclined to align the new magnet assembly. The new tweeter will separate into 3 parts. The faceplate (bezel), the tweeter diaphragm/voice coil and magnet.
DO NOT remove the black lines or the old wire connectors, just flatten them against the bezel they'll be fine. Carefully remove the old tweeter diaphragm, you may need to carefully trim the old wire away enough to not get in the way of the new tweeter diaphragm.
Key word here CAREFULLY.... -
~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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inanortherntown wrote: »So dremel these down, and remove the magnets from the RD0 replacements and they should drop in, using the existing SL housing? I’m gonna try it. Why the heck not
Use a hex wrench of the right size to remove bolts. DO NOT do this until you have new RD-0194 tweeters. This will ruin the sl1000 tweeter since the voice coils leads are under the black lines on the face.
A small round file is what I would use to make the holes align up with the new tweeter.
Hopefully you're mechanically inclined to align the new magnet assembly. The new tweeter will separate into 3 parts. The faceplate (bezel), the tweeter diaphragm/voice coil and magnet.
Great. Yes I should be able to handle. I’m going to give it a shot, anyway.
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Who? -
~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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Plot sickens. Worth it to reach out to him for xover? The speakers themselves sound great and are in great shape so I think they’re worth the hassle -
He is still working on rebuilding the website but you can reach out to him at VR3mods.net
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
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Thanks Tom. I just put the site back up a few days ago. Long way to go.
Glad to help!- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
Jesse was referring to @westmassguy. As far as I knew Dave is retired.
Ah, I did not know this. Duly noted and thanks for the update.
Tom
~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
inanortherntown wrote: »inanortherntown wrote: »So dremel these down, and remove the magnets from the RD0 replacements and they should drop in, using the existing SL housing? I’m gonna try it. Why the heck not
Use a hex wrench of the right size to remove bolts. DO NOT do this until you have new RD-0194 tweeters. This will ruin the sl1000 tweeter since the voice coils leads are under the black lines on the face.
A small round file is what I would use to make the holes align up with the new tweeter.
Hopefully you're mechanically inclined to align the new magnet assembly. The new tweeter will separate into 3 parts. The faceplate (bezel), the tweeter diaphragm/voice coil and magnet.
Great. Yes I should be able to handle. I’m going to give it a shot, anyway.
Might want to get some metric dome screws too. IIRC M4 x 0.7 x 8
And cover the RDO coil leads with a single layer electrical tape or they'll short on the SL plate.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
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Might want to get some metric dome screws too. IIRC M4 x 0.7 x 8
And cover the RDO coil leads with a single layer electrical tape or they'll short on the SL plate.[/quote]
Understood. And thanks for the great welcome. Trey is getting me sorted. Looking forward to learning more!
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This surgery is progressing well, thanks to your collective input. One thing--for the terminals on the new RD0 tweeters, does the white wire within my speaker go on the terminal painted red?
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Should be black wire to red dotDon't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Had to use the RD0 screws until proper length dome ones come in but I couldn’t wait. Success!
