Something causing distortion on monitor 10a, please help

Lalala

Yes both tweeters look the same. Maybe it was the tweeters my relative had warranty replaced, though that doesn’t really explain the one MW6600

F1nut

Lalala wrote: »

F1nut wrote: »

Those black caps with red ends are Temples, which sound horrible, are way past their lifespan and known to basically blow their wad. I see crossover upgrades in your very near future.

Is this something I buy or do I keep these and replace parts?

I’m guessing living in apartments and not using the speakers at a high volume has possibly extended the lifespan of some of the parts

You replace the capacitors and resistors on the board. Plenty of examples here if you do a search.

Volume level has absolutely nothing to do with it. Those caps are long past done.

Toolfan66

The area where the tweeter sits is much larger than the tweeter, more like a SL2500 would go there, not a 1000 or even a peerless..

Gardenstater

Lalala wrote: »

Yes both tweeters look the same. Maybe it was the tweeters my relative had warranty replaced, though that doesn’t really explain the one MW6600

They must've been a warranty replacement. If someone bypassed the fuses that could've helped the Peerless along in their early demise, combined with poor quality amplification or just plain too heavy handed on the volume control.

I'm not convinced that MW6600X couldn't have been replaced by a dealer who just neglected to indicate on the label that it was a Warranty Replacement. It definitely was put aside by Polk without putting it into any speaker or else it would've been stamped M10, RTA11, RTA12 or the like. That was their procedure at the time. That one Toolfan posted the picture of has a "W" on it (for warranty?). Or maybe it is an "M" ha ha but that wouldn't make much sense without a number after that. It isn't really shaped like an M either. He could've purchased it from a dealer out of warranty too.

pitdogg2

Toolfan66 wrote: »

The area where the tweeter sits is much larger than the tweeter, more like a SL2500 would go there, not a 1000 or even a peerless..

The SL2500 was the size as the SL2000. What I do know is the cutout for both the 2000/2500 will NOT accommodate the peerless or SL1000. To see the actual cut out will absolutely determine which tweeter they came with.

xschop

Toolfan66 wrote: »

The area where the tweeter sits is much larger than the tweeter, more like a SL2500 would go there, not a 1000 or even a peerless..

The early cabinets had "extra" routing that showed the gasket bulge around the Peerless/SL1000 tweeters. Also the MWs are not counter-sunk. The guys in the wood shop had issues.

boston1450

Couldn't he take a multimeter & check all woofers to see if they Ohm out the same ? I take it he says the tweeters DO work & without fuses - it must have been bypassed. Maybe I missed out reading the OP stated they were working

Lalala

Tweeters do work. I ordered a multimeter and soldering iron. Another member said I should work on crossover. I haven’t soldered in years, but feel like I could pick it back up with a little practice. but i guess if I’m doing all that I might as well test every part with the multimeter.

boston1450

Yes. 40+ year old crossovers are way off. You got a fun project ahead of you. Many here will help you thru it... Also. When you pull your woofers out you should put a bead of glue/jbweld around each magnet. Just a fine bead on each side of magnet to keep magnet from shifting.. Reuse all your woofer gaskets as long as they don't tear. If you feel you need to seal your cabinet when your in there - it would be the time to do it.

halo71

Reminds me of a few weeks ago. Had someone wanting to buy my 7B's. I hadnt hooked them up in a long time. So I did to demo them before the buyer got there. Noticed a distorting/rattling sound from right speakers midwoofer. After checking the cone it wasn't locked. Figured the spider had come loose. Pulled the driver. And there was a wire curled up that was touching the back of the cone. Easy fix, which is not usually my luck with anything.

Lalala

Thanks everyone for all the help. I think I know where to start now. I gather from other threads that detaching wires by desoldering is better than cutting the wires.

Gardenstater

Lalala wrote: »

Thanks everyone for all the help. I think I know where to start now. I gather from other threads that detaching wires by desoldering is better than cutting the wires.

I had no problem desoldering the Midwoofer drivers and the tinsel leads are far enough away that there wasn't really any danger of the heat getting to their attachment solder.

Peerless tweeters, and I would assume(?) SL1000 tweeters are a different story. I cut my wires 1" away from the terminals rather than desoldering. If you used a heatsink tool like a pair of hemostats and worked quickly you could probably pull it off but I wouldn't recommend it for most people.

Most people go from soldered attachment to the midwoofers and tweeters to quick disconnects (fastons) and you can get gold plated audio ones from Autozone and Advance Auto Parts. For the tweeters you would have to get a male and a female of course, if you cut the wires an inch away from terminals.

michaeljhsda2

Absolutely take the above advice and don't desolder the tweeter. I found out the hard way not knowing and the post fell off due to the heat and ruined a perfectly good Peerless tweeter.

To give myself some room to work, I cut the wire about 5 inches away that so that your not trying to strip a 1 inch wire that's attached so close to the tweeter.