Monitor 5 Junior+ refresh
ChrisD06
Posts: 929
Figured I'd make a thread for this.
I really like the Monitor 5 Junior+, I have the Series 1 so they have the SL2000. I've been planning on doing these modifications and ultimately decided to go ahead with it today.
Here's my current list of modifications I have planned out:
1. Tweeter upgrade - I will replace the SL2000 with the RD-0198
2. Rebuild XO - Using 12W Mills resistors, and ClarityCap PX 250V. I will not be replacing the inductors as it's not worth it to me personally (as of yet, I also do not know the DCR)
3. Blackhole 5 - 3x3 or 4x4? F1Nut, I know you'll see this and what do you advise? I trust you.
4. 5-ways upgrade - I hate the stock binding posts and mine are corroded. Will get gold-plated ones instead.
5. Dynamat - Uh, must I explain?
6. Cosmetics - I might spice things up a lil' bit, not too sure. Any recommendations? Definitely considering custom cabinets for fun.
7. Sealing - Gaskets and checking for air leaks. I'm talking THOROUGHLY too. It currently doesn't indicate a poor seal but I want close to 100%.
Lastly, where does the factory dacron go? One of mine slid behind the passive radiator and the other one is up behind the tweeter. I know that the location of it can screw up the midrange. Should it be folded... or...?
OKAY, ALSO: I know the RD-0194 is a direct drop in, however, the RD-0198 is considered a slightly better tweeter and because I was going to rebuild the crossover anyways, I wanted to know why the 198 and 194 weren't cross-compatible. Turns out, the capacitor is simply 1.5uF higher in capacitance and the poly switch (~0.7 ohms) is gone on the S2. I ultimately decided, that while I am inside the crossover, I will remove and jump the poly switch, and replace the single 12uF with two 6.8uF ClarityCap PX in parallel. This will entirely make it compatible with the RD-0198 tweeter along with just simply being a nice way to get used to crossover modification. For anyone concerned about the way the capacitors are going to fit, I'm going to just flip the crossover board over lol.
I already epoxied the driver and the Gorilla is rock solid, no worries of magnet shift for now.
Before anyone comments, here is a list of mods I will NOT be doing, so DON'T recommend them (please):
1. Basket foam - I'm... not sure about this one. I admittedly admire the mad scientists on this forum however I definitely see the others' points of view, the backwave reflections on the woofer basket are accounted for in the design.
2. Phase plugs - *sighs* I think these are cool and I would LOVE to try them but I was yanked back and forth so I ultimately think I won't bother as of yet (I'd still like to TRY them, just not on my first vintage Polks)
3. Wuhan tweeter - No. I'm not using the Ebay domes because I don't have the knowledge nor skill to install them. Also everyone who installed these left the old ferrofluid in and that hurts my heart.
That's all. Any feedback would be nice, otherwise, even if no one comments I will just use this as a log for my upgrades. The 198s and XO parts are currently on their way (I ordered them, paid for them, and they are in transit). Lord knows when they will arrive.
I really like the Monitor 5 Junior+, I have the Series 1 so they have the SL2000. I've been planning on doing these modifications and ultimately decided to go ahead with it today.
Here's my current list of modifications I have planned out:
1. Tweeter upgrade - I will replace the SL2000 with the RD-0198
2. Rebuild XO - Using 12W Mills resistors, and ClarityCap PX 250V. I will not be replacing the inductors as it's not worth it to me personally (as of yet, I also do not know the DCR)
3. Blackhole 5 - 3x3 or 4x4? F1Nut, I know you'll see this and what do you advise? I trust you.
4. 5-ways upgrade - I hate the stock binding posts and mine are corroded. Will get gold-plated ones instead.
5. Dynamat - Uh, must I explain?
6. Cosmetics - I might spice things up a lil' bit, not too sure. Any recommendations? Definitely considering custom cabinets for fun.
7. Sealing - Gaskets and checking for air leaks. I'm talking THOROUGHLY too. It currently doesn't indicate a poor seal but I want close to 100%.
Lastly, where does the factory dacron go? One of mine slid behind the passive radiator and the other one is up behind the tweeter. I know that the location of it can screw up the midrange. Should it be folded... or...?
OKAY, ALSO: I know the RD-0194 is a direct drop in, however, the RD-0198 is considered a slightly better tweeter and because I was going to rebuild the crossover anyways, I wanted to know why the 198 and 194 weren't cross-compatible. Turns out, the capacitor is simply 1.5uF higher in capacitance and the poly switch (~0.7 ohms) is gone on the S2. I ultimately decided, that while I am inside the crossover, I will remove and jump the poly switch, and replace the single 12uF with two 6.8uF ClarityCap PX in parallel. This will entirely make it compatible with the RD-0198 tweeter along with just simply being a nice way to get used to crossover modification. For anyone concerned about the way the capacitors are going to fit, I'm going to just flip the crossover board over lol.
I already epoxied the driver and the Gorilla is rock solid, no worries of magnet shift for now.
Before anyone comments, here is a list of mods I will NOT be doing, so DON'T recommend them (please):
1. Basket foam - I'm... not sure about this one. I admittedly admire the mad scientists on this forum however I definitely see the others' points of view, the backwave reflections on the woofer basket are accounted for in the design.
2. Phase plugs - *sighs* I think these are cool and I would LOVE to try them but I was yanked back and forth so I ultimately think I won't bother as of yet (I'd still like to TRY them, just not on my first vintage Polks)
3. Wuhan tweeter - No. I'm not using the Ebay domes because I don't have the knowledge nor skill to install them. Also everyone who installed these left the old ferrofluid in and that hurts my heart.
That's all. Any feedback would be nice, otherwise, even if no one comments I will just use this as a log for my upgrades. The 198s and XO parts are currently on their way (I ordered them, paid for them, and they are in transit). Lord knows when they will arrive.
Comments
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They're your speakers so have fun doing what ever you want.
The RD0198 is not compatible with the SL2000 crossover unless you do a TL mod. You did not mention that.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Gardenstater wrote: »They're your speakers so have fun doing what ever you want.
The RD0198 is not compatible with the SL2000 crossover unless you do a TL mod. You did not mention that.
I did. The RD-0198 is compatible with the SL3000 and SL2500. The M5JR+ Series 2 uses the SL2500. I am removing the poly switch and replacing the 12uF capacitor with two 6.8uF in parallel (to make 13.6uF which is 0.1uF off from the spec of 13.5uF) which will make my Series 1 crossover identical to the Series 2 crossover, which is infact directly compatible with the RD-0198. -
Yeah sorry I didn't read the middle part. But one thing I need to add is that you don't know the DCRs of the inductors are the same. Check the wire gauges of the ones you have and make sure they are 18 and 22 awg.
That polyswitch is 500mOhm pre-trip and 1.1 Ohm max after tripping. Did Polk trip them a time or two? I think they did. So they reduced the resistance quite a bit to go to the SL2500, in addition to whatever difference there could be in the DCR of the inductors. They aren't the same inductors if they have different DCRs, only the same inductances.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/littelfuse-inc/RXEF050-1/1040803Post edited by Gardenstater onGeorge / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Gardenstater wrote: »Yeah sorry I didn't read the middle part. But one thing I need to add is that you don't know the DCRs of the inductors are the same. Check the wire gauges of the ones you have and make sure they are 18 and 22 awg.
They are 18 and 22, or at least, the one wrapped around the 5-way plate is infact 18awg and the other one is the EXACT same inductor used on the Series 2 and looks to be 22awg. I'm not concerned and I'll just replace them if need be.
I believe the Series 2 and Series 1 used the exact same XO except the poly and 1.5uF cap bump anyways, after some digging on the forum here.
If, say, I didn't do the TL mod, what would happen? I can't see me frying the tweeters, but I assume the sound might suck? I am going to mod them anyways to support the 198s, but I am curious. -
194s are a waste of plastic.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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194s are a waste of plastic.
I couldn't figure out why on earth anyone would even get them. Like doing the mod for the 198 is actually not any more difficult than rebuilding the crossover normally, why not make it support the better tweeter? Like what, are you telling me people are keeping the XO stock 🤮 -
Figured I'd make a thread for this.
...
Lastly, where does the factory dacron go? One of mine slid behind the passive radiator and the other one is up behind the tweeter. I know that the location of it can screw up the midrange. Should it be folded... or...?
...
I'm just here to highlight this for someone else to answer definitively for the Monitor 5, but I would think the one that is "up" would be correct. Behind the passive doesn't seem right to me. And mine wasn't folded. It was wrapped around the sides and back.
I'll also mention @F1nut this way to draw his attention to your BH5 question above.
Brian
One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM -
Figured I'd make a thread for this.
...
Lastly, where does the factory dacron go? One of mine slid behind the passive radiator and the other one is up behind the tweeter. I know that the location of it can screw up the midrange. Should it be folded... or...?
...
I'm just here to highlight this for someone else to answer definitively for the Monitor 5, but I would think the one that is "up" would be correct. Behind the passive doesn't seem right to me. And mine wasn't folded. It was wrapped around the sides and back.
I'll also mention @F1nut this way to draw his attention to your BH5 question above.
I'll do the same with my Dacron then. One of them was kinda folded behind the PR, the other was exactly as you described behind the tweeter. I assume one fell and the other stayed from factory. -
3x3 will be plenty for that cabinet. The polyfill should never be down behind the PR.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
3x3 will be plenty for that cabinet. The polyfill should never be down behind the PR.
Awesome! Thank you. I'll probably use some light adhesive to prevent the dacron from moving. Super excited for this to all come together. -
A couple of well placed staples will do the trick.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
A couple of well placed staples will do the trick.
Oh that's actually a good idea, didn't consider that. -
Tiny update:
I paid $156 for the tweeters, I forgot about the 20% CP member discount. I could have saved like $30 🥲 -
Let me know if you still want a set of RD0 plates...
Fresh off the wagon...
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
Let me know if you still want a set of RD0 plates...
Fresh off the wagon...
You wouldn't believe me if I told you that 30 minutes ago I was pondering threads on these out of interest. I figured you had none in stock. The only thing stopping me is how to replace the plastic face plate? It looks like I need to move the diaphragm assembly over and unless it's as easy as 1 2 3 then I could never find the skill to do that. -
You need the skill to remove 4 screws and add 2 pieces of tape, then use the same 4 screws to re-attach.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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So, it’s as easy as 1 2 3 … 4, 1 2 and 1 2 3 4!
Brian
One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM -
You need the skill to remove 4 screws and add 2 pieces of tape, then use the same 4 screws to re-attach.
DM sent -
Because this is my refresh thread, I feel I should document what's happening so far.
Will not get the RD0 tweeter plates YET as I don't have the spare cash. Will get them later on and do what a few others have done and anodise them black. They're officially added to the list of mods I will be doing.
The Monitors are torn apart, they're pretty much 100% ready for any modifications I have. The RD-0198 and XO parts are in transit.
Will soon be seeking to redo the internal wiring, as I'm tired of remembering the mantra "black wire to red dot, white wire to no dot" for the MW6502. I'll also need to change the fastons for the tweeter anyways. @VR3 do you know what size fastons the RD-0198 tweeter uses? And any recommendations for internal wiring?
That's the progress so far. It's pretty much stagnant over what I initially posted plus a minor addition to the mods list and realizing an internal wiring upgrade is necessary. Next post will be some actual upgrades...
Oh yeah, and that tweeter foam gasket seal thingy needs a replacement. Yikes. -
Post a pic of the tweeter gasket. I’m thinking unless it’s just missing a chunk, the billet plates might solve your issue there since they are flat AF on the back and maximize the sealing area, not like the factory plastic plates.
Brian
One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM -
Post a pic of the tweeter gasket. I’m thinking unless it’s just missing a chunk, the billet plates might solve your issue there since they are flat AF on the back and maximize the sealing area, not like the factory plastic plates.
They're not missing a chunk, but one of them was set wrong from the factor so half of it got pushed down with the magnet. Hard to explain. I could try to iron it flat. -
Besides the billet plates, a simple dowel front to back between the MW and PR is the best bang for buck mod to stiffen the front baffle for best midrange/mid-bass performance.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Besides the billet plates, a simple dowel front to back between the MW and PR is the best bang for buck mod to stiffen the front baffle for best midrange/mid-bass performance.
Hmm, I'll have to pick up some 1" MDF or so, but thats intruiging. Will highly consider it.
Currently trying to get the "DUH" mods out of the way, the nifty and experimental stuff comes later. -
Crossover parts have arrived. Will rebuild later on today. -
Crossover parts have arrived. Will rebuild later on today.
I just get a set of those. Looking forward to hearing them in another set of speakers I started. Sound damn good in 5Bs
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
The B&Ws, right? I'll be following that project closely! -
O
Brian
One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM -
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They'll be XSiveDon't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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They'll be XSive
If you start a crossover, driver, etc. modding business, name it XSive Mods.
