Wood Veneer Suggestions For Monitor 5Jr+

melchionda
melchionda Posts: 22
edited March 17 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Hello, I am re-doing the veneer on my Polk Monitor 5JR+ speakers. I wanted to do some walnut wood veneer. This will be the first time I've ever done veneer and I've been watching youtube videos on how to do veneer as well as shopping for veneer products to see what is out there. I have some questions.

But first... here is my speaker...

07sabgpb42c4.png

1.) What type of wood veneer should I use? I've seen just plain wood veneer which lacks any backing or adhesive, I've seen paper-backed veneer, and I've also see wood veneer with a self-adhesive backing that you can iron onto the cabinet. Does anyone have any experience with these different types and can talk to the pros and cons?

2.) My speaker has a bevel around the front perimeter of the speaker. This seems like it will be a really difficult shape on which to apply veneer because I'm guessing I will have to apply a really thin strip of veneer on that bevel and then trim it. Seems like getting a precise cut when the veneer is on an angle will be tough. Has anyone ever done veneer on one of these? Should I use one piece of veneer around the bevel corner or would that be three pieces?

3.) If I was to do veneer on the front of the speaker what is the trick to getting a really clean cut around the speaker driver holes?

4.) I was considering converting the bevel into a rounded corner. I think it would look better but I don't have the precision carpentry tools to do that properly. Has anyone ever attempted converting the bevel into a rounded corner?

Comments

  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 3,511
    If you do the front face/baffle, there is always a nasty lip from factory assembly.
  • melchionda
    melchionda Posts: 22
    xschop wrote: »
    If you do the front face/baffle, there is always a nasty lip from factory assembly.

    Are you referring to the part of the front where its currently covered in black vinyl and slightly recessed? I was thinking I could either rout the edge with a flush router bit or apply an extra layer or two of veneer to get that area flush with the perimeter.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 3,511
    Yes, they are usually catawompus.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 3,511
    While you're in there, put a 1" dowel front to back between MW and PR if the crossover is not in the way. Big improvement in mid-bass response from doing so.
  • melchionda
    melchionda Posts: 22
    Interesting. I was going to put one across the cabinet from side to side. Maybe I’ll brace it in both directions.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 3,511
    It is the weakest point in the Monitor 5's and 7's
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 48,142
    Paper backed is pretty easy to use. Raw veneer not so much. PSA works best over a surface that has a finish such as lacquer on it. There can be adhesion issues over raw particleboard or MDF. Do NOT use an iron with PSA veneer.

    For the angled cabinet front you will need to do that in strips.

    To round over the angled cabinet front you would need to disassemble the cabinet and use a router. Forget about doing that and forget about veneering the front bezel.

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  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 151
    edited March 19
    xschop wrote: »
    While you're in there, put a 1" dowel front to back between MW and PR if the crossover is not in the way. Big improvement in mid-bass response from doing so.

    Definitely do this, really tightened up my 7's!

    6mci2l220nt4.jpg

  • melchionda
    melchionda Posts: 22
    For what it’s worth a little bracing….kluocgwntczh.jpeg
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 3,511
    That should pass the knock test with flying colors.