Reference and legend speakers mixed together?
Hello! I'm starting to collect new speakers for my 7.1 slowly. I'm replacing my RTI A9s, A3s, CSI-A6, and A1s. So far I have the R200 bookshelf speakers, but next, I plan on getting the R700 towers and R100s for rears most likely. My issue is with the center speaker. I don't like the reference models. They aren't ported and they're smaller than I would like. So I'm eyeing the legend center. Will this timber match the reference models? Also, if I slowly add in the reference speakers with my RTI line will it sound better than the RTI's already timbre matched? Anyway, I appreciate it if anyone could shed some light, or give their own opinion on how I should complete my setup, even different speakers, etc. I'm still willing to get the reference center, I'm just still impressed with how much air my CSI-A6 moves around. It's like being in front of a fan.
Best Answers
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The best match for a center for R700s is the R400. It is dual ported and fairly large with 6.5 inch drivers. I use one with my L800s.
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The Legend L600's have a different more complex cross over and the cabinet structure is impressive. I went with the L600's over the R700's because I think for my main rig that extra 5-10% is worth it. And I got a killer deal on the L600's when Polk ran the forum offer.
I absolutely love my R200's in the office rig and I think the Reserve line as a whole punches way above it's price. No shame in going with the Reserve series, I just always want that little extra for my main rig so I went Legend.
Enjoy
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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Oh! Thanks for pointing out that. I was looking at the R300 that has the sealed enclosure.
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You asked about the legends as well, or have you changed your mind on them?The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
I just found an open box r400 on eBay for $430 so I went with that.
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What are the "reference models" in reference to?
There's
RTi series > Reference Theater Improved
R Series > Reserve
L Series > LegendI disabled signatures. -
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I meant to say reserve sorry!
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I was thinking so, but wasn't sure if you were talking about your old speakers.
Reading again, I see where you mentioned looking into a Legend center.
+1 on @Emlyn' s recommendation.
Curious, will this be for HT only, or combo music and theater?
If for combo use, you're in for a treat for music when you get the new Reserves in place for your front left and right speakers.
The RTi and RTi/A lines were pretty hot up top, which made them fatiguing for music, and could also make the mids and lows sound thin at volume just because the high end had greater presence. People would crank them louder to get the mids and lows to fill, but then the tweeters were just screaming that much more.
The bright, detailed top end wasn't a bad thing for HT. I used a CSi5 for a center for a long time, but the RTi10s I had were awful for music, and they went out in favor of LSiM703s.
The Reserve series is much better balanced top to bottom than the RTi series was, with the Legend a bit better still for music.I disabled signatures. -
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that one's gonna take me 12 hours for it to sink in.
I've seen it done with a rubber chicken - regularly - but never a squirrel.I disabled signatures. -
This will be for combo music and theatre. Your description of the RTI line was pretty spot on. They're great-sounding speakers, but I always felt they were just at the border of becoming fatiguing. Like they were hurting my ears, but just not enough for me to dislike them. I've been reading and watching a lot of reviews about the reserve series and it seems a lot of people like aspects about them more than the legend, especially the price considering the legends are 5% better. I heard people liked the r700 over the l600 sound wise because basically it was the same speaker except the reserve had a better internal cabinetry design and more bass. I'm super excited for the R700 to be relieved from the shrillness of the R9s! So far I've ordered the R200 white(used for $450) and R400 black(open box $430) I'm still waiting for delivery. I need another $1000 saved up and will be ordering the R700 off polks website for 10% off, then eventually get my hands on a pair of R100s or more R200s for rears. I have the Emotiva MR1 driving and an Xpa 2 for F/L. Super stoked!!! Wish they still made the white!
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mhardy6647 wrote: »
Was he bent over at the time?Gustard X26 Pro DAC
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Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
The Reserves will be a solid upgrade. On the music side, the improvements will be obvious, and you won't miss your RTiAs for HT.
Do note that you'll need to get at least 200hrs on them before they'll be broken/burned in. This is a real thing.
They're likely going to sound a little mid-thin out of the box, maybe bass bloated depending on placement. Congested, lacking definition. They'll start getting better within about 5hrs, and then will be a bit all over the place for a long while. They'll sound good with some stuff, sucky with others. You'll have to experiment with placement and tuning, too. Main thing to to give them as much play time as possible. Whenever I get new speakers, I run them 24/7 for 4 to 8 weeks, barely audible volume at night. Speeds break-in and burn-in.
Do you have a sub? If so, when you get the R200s, I'd throw those in up front until you get your R700s, and kick those RTiA9s to rears or storage or something. Just know that R200s need a lot of room to breathe to sound their best.
I really wanted to like the RTi10s. Good looking speaker, and I tried a lot of different pieces of gear to make them work; sq peg, round hole. In the end, I could listen for maybe 20 minutes before it was just too unpleasant. It's no exaggeration when I say they almost ruined music for me.I disabled signatures. -
Yes, I have a sub. I wanted to get the full amount of bass out of the new speakers though. Should I bypass the r700s or lower the crossover of my sub?
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Also thanks for the heads-up! I'll leave music playing all the time.
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Depending on what you're using for a sub, it's still likely to handle the lows better for HT tracks. You might be able to lower the crossover point a bit, but spend some time experimenting and see what you prefer best. I still prefer to use a sub with larger speakers, but typically a crossover point of 45Hz to 55Hz for music, and 65Hz to 75Hz for HT.
Does your processor offer auto calibration? You could stsrt there.
For the break-in/burn-in period, I'd run the front L/R full range. May not be necessary, but the drivers will see more activity. For a sit-down movie or something during this period, it's easy enough to adjust the system to set the speakers small and bring the sub back in.
@Emlyn and the other guys will have more experience and ideas to share.I disabled signatures. -
that one's gonna take me 12 hours for it to sink in.
I've seen it done with a rubber chicken - regularly - but never a squirrel.
CHOKING your chicken.....AGAIN? -
Why do people keep commenting on squirrels and chickens? Is this code? Am I missing something? Lol
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I was just joking earlier on about one of the questions/comments that seemed to be skipped over in your first responses. A joke about being distracted or unaware. There's a photo thread on the site where people post funny or weird stuff. That's where the "woman kills husband with squirrel" came from.I disabled signatures.
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Definitely an oddball sense of humor here. Must be why I like it so much! 👍
Brian
One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM -
Depending on what you're using for a sub, it's still likely to handle the lows better for HT tracks. You might be able to lower the crossover point a bit, but spend some time experimenting and see what you prefer best. I still prefer to use a sub with larger speakers, but typically a crossover point of 45Hz to 55Hz for music, and 65Hz to 75Hz for HT.
Does your processor offer auto calibration? You could stsrt there.
For the break-in/burn-in period, I'd run the front L/R full range. May not be necessary, but the drivers will see more activity. For a sit-down movie or something during this period, it's easy enough to adjust the system to set the speakers small and bring the sub back in.
@Emlyn and the other guys will have more experience and ideas to share.
You should try a 60-80hz crossover point for both. Calibrate your subs into your room and free up some dynamic range you will.
Dan
My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time. -
So a 60-80 crossover on the sub? I always set my speakers to the lowest crossover they're capable of?
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I usually leave the sub at the default 120hz though.