Anyone have any idea what to do to troubleshoot HTS10 going to "sleep"?
coaleyed
Posts: 5
After a period of time my sub goes to "sleep" and goes into a red indicator on the back of the speaker. New audio does not turn it back on. I have to physically reseat the RCA cable to get it to go green again and start pushing LPF.
Answers
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When the subwoofer goes into standby is there any signal coming into it? In other words, is the subwoofer doing what it's supposed to do? Or, is it going into standby while a signal is present?
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Signal is present. Just cut out in the middle of listening to music. The whole board was just replaced in it at the beginning of the month. Wondering if its maybe something to do with my receiver? It's an old Yamaha RX-685 7.2 and I am only using one subwoofer (the HTS10) on it.
Was hoping it was the power plug going to my surge protector, but still cut out even after going to directly to the outlet. When I flip the goggle to DC current it stays red not sure why this happens so I feel like I'm stuck in "auto".
The rest of my audio is being outsourced to the multichannel setting so I can get the full control of the 4 surround connections to my computer. -
What can sometimes happen is that whatever program material you happen to be watching, let's say for example, a show about springtime rains returning to the Kalahari desert, and there isn't any low frequency content. This means that after a period of time the subwoofer's trigger circuit goes into operation. If possible try going into your receiver's setup instructions and raising the low pass filter point. If it's now set to 80Hz try setting it to 90 or 100Hz. As a test try playing a DVD with plenty of bass content and see if the subwoofer goes into standby.
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Tested it at 80 and 110 so far. No luck finding the trigger for it happening. Was playing a song with a decent bass riff in it and heard it cut out in the middle of listening to the album.
Still don't understand when I set it to DC and it will not go green and work.
Going to try to bridge both sub outs (7.2) to see if both will give it what it needs to keep working. Waiting on a y-cable for that right now.
Testing volume baseline now. Was set to -25db, moved it to -10. -
It may simply be defective.
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2 Hours of YouTube later and then revisiting the back of the sub... DC out has a phono jack that I completely looked over. I hooked it to the 12v on my receiver and problem solved.
Still had no luck with the Auto setting, however. I did knob controls from the receiver and the dial on the back of the subwoofer. Always seemed to cut out after 5-6 songs.
Still testing at the moment, but it appears to be fixed. -
Can you confirm phono jack?2 Hours of YouTube later and then revisiting the back of the sub... DC out has a phono jack that I completely looked over. I hooked it to the 12v on my receiver and problem solved.
Still had no luck with the Auto setting, however. I did knob controls from the receiver and the dial on the back of the subwoofer. Always seemed to cut out after 5-6 songs.
Still testing at the moment, but it appears to be fixed.
Do you mean 3.5mm mono output and input for DC trigger between the AVR and sub?
I'm having a similar issue in a system after swapping in a different sub. It drops out when the input signal is too low. Haven't checked into it yet.
I disabled signatures. -
Yeah, after I ran the "headphone" plug from the 12v to the DC on the sub I haven't had any audio issues since.
