Monitor 7 Real Wood Veneer Advice

joebass3

I recently acquired at pair of Polk Monitor 7b's that, although sound amazing, are rather beat up. I think I'm going to try my hand at installing a real wood veneer to the cabinets, and would appreciate any tips, advice, links to how-to videos, etc. I have done a fair share of woodworking but have never worked with veneers. Main questions are what method is preferred for adhesive? Peel and stick vs contact cement? Is there a particular order for installing the individual pieces, for example top, sides, bottom, front OR sides, top,bottom, front? Also since the veneer is obviously thicker than the contact paper, should I trim the front edge of the cabinet back by running it through my table saw first to keep the front edge flush with the black face of the cabinet? I know there are numerous threads on the subject and I'll start reading them, but was hoping for some input here.


TIA

Gardenstater

I vote yes on trimming the front edge, with either a router table or a sacrificial fence on the table saw. Whatever fence you use needs to have clearance for the grille pegs of course.

I think there is also a PVA adhesive used for veneer work, that you heat activate with an iron. I've never done any veneering either, only plastic laminates.

wispolkboy

I didn't trim my front edges... The thickness of the veneer is pretty thin (I used peel and stick, much easier to work with than plain paper)
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/195549/to-poly-or-not-to-poly/p1

F1nut

Do not trim the front edge.

Peel and stick (PSA) is great stuff, but works best on a surface that has a clear coat on it such as lacquer. For those particleboard cabinets contact adhesive would be best.

joebass3

wispolkboy wrote: »

I didn't trim my front edges... The thickness of the veneer is pretty thin (I used peel and stick, much easier to work with than plain paper)
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/195549/to-poly-or-not-to-poly/p1

They turned out great! I read the peel and stick might be a little easier than using contact adhesive.

F1nut wrote: »

Do not trim the front edge.

Peel and stick (PSA) is great stuff, but works best on a surface that has a clear coat on it such as lacquer. For those particleboard cabinets contact adhesive would be best.

I here there is very little room for error with contact cement. Once the veneer is down, it better be perfect. What's your thought on putting a clear coat of lacquer on the particle board first and then applying the peel and stick veneer?

F1nut

It better be perfect with PSA veneer as well.

At least a couple of coats sanded smooth. Try to fill in the voids.

JayMX

I’m currently veneering this pair of Australian-made Krix monitors. I used PSA Maple and heat appliqué walnut edge banding for the stripe on the bezels. The sides are walnut paper backed veneer, adhered with contact cement. Three methods of attachment on one cabinet haha. PSA is by far the easiest to work with and sticks pretty darn well. I’ve found that the best bonds happen with non-water-based contact cement. The water based stuff has been problematic for me with bubbling etc. Tough to make it lay down, especially if applied when the shop is cooler.

I typically will do the sides first then tops/bottoms. Trim and sand them, then band the front edges, more sanding, then more sanding.. 😁 A couple of notes - once you’ve laid your cement on the veneer and the cabinets and allowed it to get tacky (10-15 mins or so after application), use a series of small dowels to “float” the veneer sheet over the cabinet so you can position it just right, prior to sticking it down. Once it grabs, there’s no going back. Use a roller to get any bubbles out and then weight it down with even pressure (I use a piece of 3/4 melamine just a little larger than the work piece and a heavy bucket of old stucco for my ballast) and leave it for a few hours to ensure a good bond.

I think, like @F1nut said, those Monitor 7 cabs will be best served using contact cement. The damage on the front corner could be repaired with bondo wood filler then sanded up square. They will clean up real nice! Good luck. I love doing veneer work. 🤘🏻🤘🏻

joebass3

Is the iron on edge banding for the front edges the way to go? Any tips for the 45° miter on the corners? Should I try to cut the pieces exact before applying or leave them long and cut the 45's after they have been ironed on?

Gardenstater

I'm sorry I can't remember who posted the how to but I read one here where someone overlapped the edges, cut the miter through both pieces at the same time with a razor knife, and then lifted the upper one allowing them to remove the cut end on the lower and then ironed the pieces down at the miter.

joebass3

I was going to use a paper back veneer until my wife saw the warnings on the can of contact cement. She freaked out and said no way, so it looks like I'm going with a peel and stick quarter sawn walnut. I'll seal the MDF first to insure a good bond. What is the tool of choice for trimming the excess veneer away after installing? Exactly knife, drywall knife, or flush cut router bit? I'm worried about a rough cut when cutting across the grain.

pitdogg2

Personally I'd use the router.
It is a valid concern on the grain issue.

F1nut

What warnings?

Clipdat

Probably said if you breathe in the vapors or get any of it on your skin you might sprout a third ****.

joebass3

All she needed to see was the back of the can where it says to turn of all pilot lights. Since my workshop is in the basement right next to the furnace and water heater, I doubt I could convince her it would be perfectly safe. She tends to be a little (OK a lot) more cautious than me.

xschop

Clipdat wrote: »

Probably said if you breathe in the vapors or get any of it on your skin you might sprout a third ****.

That'd be one exceptional teratoma.

F1nut

It's really no worse than a can of spray paint. Using either you should have a source of fresh air ventilation to prevent a build up of fumes. It's the build up of fumes that is the concern.

Gardenstater

Do you have a window in your basement that you might be able to put a small box fan in, on exhaust? They have to be conservative and general with those warnings for legal purposes.

You could always do it in the bathroom with the exhaust fan on ha ha. That'll go over well I'm sure.

wispolkboy

I used a very sharp razor blades...

joebass3

wispolkboy wrote: »

I used a very sharp razor blades...

I read through the thread you made about veneering your Monitor 5's. They turned out beautifully. Do you have a link to the "fake" tung oil you used? That is the look I am after!

wispolkboy

I use Minwax® Interior Tung Oil Wood Finish. and I only put on 2 coats. I did a sample on some of the scrap veneer and 3 coats was too shiny for me. then after a month or 2 I put on some furniture past wax. the photos on my thread was just the minwax. the wax did not affect the shine. I just wanted a little more protection. I put a new coat on every 4 months or so.

westmassguy

Here's some veneer work I did a lifetime ago:
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/149215/monitor-10-rebuild-with-tl-mod/p1
I use the PSA Backed Walnut. For triming I used a utility knife with plenty of fresh blades. I used a 1 X 3 X 12" as a backer board, and by holding the knife 90 degrees on the PSA side, as flat as possible, I was able to make square cuts. Use 220 grit sandpaper on a wood block to dress the raw edge. I also used the PSA backed Walnut Edging. For the finish, I used Minwax English Chestnut (Don't yell at me Jesse), followed by 3 coats of Deft Rattle Can Satin Urethane. I loathe shiny finishes on wood. The Deft Poly has the lowest sheen of any Urethane I've ever used. It takes forever and a day to dry though.

joebass3

For my first ever attempt at veneer I'm pretty happy with how they look so far. I learned alot from doing the first one so obviously #2 looks better, but overall I'm pleased. Still have some sanding to do and need to decide on a color. I have some scraps that I'll experiment on. Suggestions are definitely appreciated.

wispolkboy

Looking good!

joebass3

joebass3 wrote: »

I here there is very little room for error with contact cement. Once the veneer is down, it better be perfect.

F1nut wrote: »

It better be perfect with PSA veneer as well.

I found out just how true this is. I used peel and stick edge banding and one of the corners wasn't perfect. I figured since I had plenty I would just pull that piece off and replace it. Wrong! After about 20 minutes I finally got that one 14" piece completely removed using a sharp chisel. Scared the crap out of me.

F1nut

A heat gun helps...a lot.

joebass3

So they are done! Night and day from how they looked initially. Thanks for all the tips and advice. With all the upgrades complete I just need to button them up.

F1nut

Looking good!

joebass3

F1nut wrote: »

Looking good!

Thanks for your help Jesse

wispolkboy

nice job!

wispolkboy

What did you end up using for your finish?

joebass3

wispolkboy wrote: »

What did you end up using for your finish?

I tested a few stains I already had but ended up copying David @westmassguy and used Minwax English Chestnut. Then satin wipe on poly for protection.