Monitor 7 Real Wood Veneer Advice

I recently acquired at pair of Polk Monitor 7b's that, although sound amazing, are rather beat up. I think I'm going to try my hand at installing a real wood veneer to the cabinets, and would appreciate any tips, advice, links to how-to videos, etc. I have done a fair share of woodworking but have never worked with veneers. Main questions are what method is preferred for adhesive? Peel and stick vs contact cement? Is there a particular order for installing the individual pieces, for example top, sides, bottom, front OR sides, top,bottom, front? Also since the veneer is obviously thicker than the contact paper, should I trim the front edge of the cabinet back by running it through my table saw first to keep the front edge flush with the black face of the cabinet? I know there are numerous threads on the subject and I'll start reading them, but was hoping for some input here. 19uuheijc93u.jpg
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TIA
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Comments

  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,136
    edited December 2022
    I vote yes on trimming the front edge, with either a router table or a sacrificial fence on the table saw. Whatever fence you use needs to have clearance for the grille pegs of course.

    I think there is also a PVA adhesive used for veneer work, that you heat activate with an iron. I've never done any veneering either, only plastic laminates.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • I didn't trim my front edges... The thickness of the veneer is pretty thin (I used peel and stick, much easier to work with than plain paper)
    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/195549/to-poly-or-not-to-poly/p1
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    Do not trim the front edge.

    Peel and stick (PSA) is great stuff, but works best on a surface that has a clear coat on it such as lacquer. For those particleboard cabinets contact adhesive would be best.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 244
    wispolkboy wrote: »
    I didn't trim my front edges... The thickness of the veneer is pretty thin (I used peel and stick, much easier to work with than plain paper)
    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/195549/to-poly-or-not-to-poly/p1

    They turned out great! I read the peel and stick might be a little easier than using contact adhesive.
    F1nut wrote: »
    Do not trim the front edge.

    Peel and stick (PSA) is great stuff, but works best on a surface that has a clear coat on it such as lacquer. For those particleboard cabinets contact adhesive would be best.

    I here there is very little room for error with contact cement. Once the veneer is down, it better be perfect. What's your thought on putting a clear coat of lacquer on the particle board first and then applying the peel and stick veneer?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    It better be perfect with PSA veneer as well.

    At least a couple of coats sanded smooth. Try to fill in the voids.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 244
    Is the iron on edge banding for the front edges the way to go? Any tips for the 45° miter on the corners? Should I try to cut the pieces exact before applying or leave them long and cut the 45's after they have been ironed on?
  • I'm sorry I can't remember who posted the how to but I read one here where someone overlapped the edges, cut the miter through both pieces at the same time with a razor knife, and then lifted the upper one allowing them to remove the cut end on the lower and then ironed the pieces down at the miter.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 244
    edited December 2022
    I was going to use a paper back veneer until my wife saw the warnings on the can of contact cement. She freaked out and said no way, so it looks like I'm going with a peel and stick quarter sawn walnut. I'll seal the MDF first to insure a good bond. What is the tool of choice for trimming the excess veneer away after installing? Exactly knife, drywall knife, or flush cut router bit? I'm worried about a rough cut when cutting across the grain.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,477
    edited December 2022
    Personally I'd use the router.
    It is a valid concern on the grain issue.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    What warnings?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,559
    edited December 2022
    Probably said if you breathe in the vapors or get any of it on your skin you might sprout a third ****.
  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 244
    edited December 2022
    All she needed to see was the back of the can where it says to turn of all pilot lights. Since my workshop is in the basement right next to the furnace and water heater, I doubt I could convince her it would be perfectly safe. She tends to be a little (OK a lot) more cautious than me.

    ik4y7sal6teu.jpg
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,636
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Probably said if you breathe in the vapors or get any of it on your skin you might sprout a third ****.

    That'd be one exceptional teratoma.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    It's really no worse than a can of spray paint. Using either you should have a source of fresh air ventilation to prevent a build up of fumes. It's the build up of fumes that is the concern.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Do you have a window in your basement that you might be able to put a small box fan in, on exhaust? They have to be conservative and general with those warnings for legal purposes.

    You could always do it in the bathroom with the exhaust fan on ha ha. That'll go over well I'm sure.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • I used a very sharp razor blades...
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 244
    wispolkboy wrote: »
    I used a very sharp razor blades...

    I read through the thread you made about veneering your Monitor 5's. They turned out beautifully. Do you have a link to the "fake" tung oil you used? That is the look I am after!
  • I use Minwax® Interior Tung Oil Wood Finish. and I only put on 2 coats. I did a sample on some of the scrap veneer and 3 coats was too shiny for me. then after a month or 2 I put on some furniture past wax. the photos on my thread was just the minwax. the wax did not affect the shine. I just wanted a little more protection. I put a new coat on every 4 months or so.
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    Here's some veneer work I did a lifetime ago:
    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/149215/monitor-10-rebuild-with-tl-mod/p1
    I use the PSA Backed Walnut. For triming I used a utility knife with plenty of fresh blades. I used a 1 X 3 X 12" as a backer board, and by holding the knife 90 degrees on the PSA side, as flat as possible, I was able to make square cuts. Use 220 grit sandpaper on a wood block to dress the raw edge. I also used the PSA backed Walnut Edging. For the finish, I used Minwax English Chestnut (Don't yell at me Jesse), followed by 3 coats of Deft Rattle Can Satin Urethane. I loathe shiny finishes on wood. The Deft Poly has the lowest sheen of any Urethane I've ever used. It takes forever and a day to dry though.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • Looking good!
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 244
    joebass3 wrote: »
    I here there is very little room for error with contact cement. Once the veneer is down, it better be perfect.
    F1nut wrote: »
    It better be perfect with PSA veneer as well.

    I found out just how true this is. I used peel and stick edge banding and one of the corners wasn't perfect. I figured since I had plenty I would just pull that piece off and replace it. Wrong! After about 20 minutes I finally got that one 14" piece completely removed using a sharp chisel. Scared the crap out of me.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    A heat gun helps...a lot.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    Looking good!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 244
    F1nut wrote: »
    Looking good!

    Thanks for your help Jesse
  • nice job!
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
  • What did you end up using for your finish?
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 244
    wispolkboy wrote: »
    What did you end up using for your finish?

    I tested a few stains I already had but ended up copying David @westmassguy and used Minwax English Chestnut. Then satin wipe on poly for protection.