Krell KSA-250 Output Relays - Clean Contacts

Options
SCompRacer
SCompRacer Posts: 8,352
edited December 2022 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Just started this month, every now and then I was experiencing crackling on left, then right channel with music playing on my KSA-250 amp. Yes, it's an old, complicated amp but when they are working properly, they still sound fantastic.

A Krell tech told me it could be the output relay contacts have some slight corrosion. He suggested closing my fist and banging on top rear corner of amp. Crackling went away! Three choices were offered. $end it for $ervice, build a hefty load bank and apply full tilt power to clean contacts or disassemble and manually clean contacts.

I must admit the load bank-full power fix sounded exciting, but I opted for disassemble and clean. I did it in place in living room as I am older, maybe wiser, and won't carry 140 pounds by myself. (I was reminded of its delivery by Ed, the SRT king during a bad winter storm. As I donned a coat, too late, Ed brought it in by himself)!

I placed some 2x4's under the five footers on amp stand to gain access to bolts holding sides to base. Removed one side at a time. The relays are attached to output board and surrounded by gold-plated copper-beryllium busbars.

A simple 100-watt lightbulb with pull chain was used to discharge those four big caps. That way no sparking when connecting alligator clips. With side on bench, remove the heat sinks, separate driver/input boards, remove straps to get at relays. I took some pics but not all during disassembly. Like the wire colors to the Wego board connectors.

My way to remove plastic relay covers...channel locks, layer of tape on each jaw. Gently squeeze side with release tab, center of cover bows out, pull off. Using sharp probe can sometimes crack cover. YMMV. I cut a thin strip of file folder, wrapped it with a Kimwipe, sprayed some contact cleaner on it. Inserted between row of four contacts and pressed contacts closed, pulled it through a couple times. I Ohm'd contacts out and pressed them closed before and after and there was a difference after cleaning.

You must remove board from speaker output panel to get straps off speaker output terminals. Notice there is a flange on XLR and the XLR soldered to board. There is a fourth hole in XLR. Insert tiny screwdriver and give it a 1/16 turn to release cam lock. Arrow points to tab that holds it together.

Two days now, no crackling when playing music. Huge relief.
kxa6vbf6o4tv.jpg
b5cnd70gm5ri.jpg
0bcaqkr5naki.jpg

Not my amp but shows one compete channel.

f55lerrdcp5e.jpg
mcfy8tqcfksh.jpg
Input board removed.
chn6carf7pni.jpg
7yia7v0x3i2s.jpg
fwtoql5zk9rk.jpg
4dnvk2hzla8z.jpg



Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
Post edited by SCompRacer on

Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,804
    Options
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,582
    Options
    Very nice Rich!
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,352
    Options
    Yes sir, I'm aware. If contacts did not Ohm out zero I'd go with replacing.
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,479
    Options
    Perfect timing! Per usual, nice work Rich, and exactly what I need to see.

    A few months ago I was graciously karma'd a broken Anthem MRX-500 from szhleppy with the hope I can fix it and gift to my son for paring w/3.1tl's I gave him.

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/197020/broken-anthem-mrx-500

    d22fkrex1ds2.jpg
    tsd44iralg9c.jpg

    Haven't had the time to seriously troubleshoot but couldn't resist cracking the case the first night I received it. Powers on but has an oscillation sound. Blasted Vanilla won't let me upload a sound file, so linking the recording on Google Drive:

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iHxPB41542Eby1EFikOzyh9yK93t6TCq/view?usp=sharing

    Wasn't comfortable hooking the receiver up to speakers but letting it idle for a while it goes into protection mode. Did spend an hour or so tearing it down but this monster has layers of boards. Reminds me of a big A$$ HT PC.

    Located what I believe is/sounds like it's coming from the relay. Lives on the bottom output board in this pic.
    fgj8w8hau9ss.jpg

    Unfortunately, I can't get to it with power on because it's buried under several boards. Also, not 100% sure I've found the culprit as the sound could be traveling from another area of the receiver. Powered off, I disassembled all the boards to reveal the lower board and relay.

    s6tqq3tykklr.jpg

    Searching on-line I'm able to find the OM and similar part...but, can't match the "30VDC". Current production looks to be only 28 Amp.

    Put everything back together, powered on and it's back to the same condition I received it.

    Plan to start my own thread when I have time to work on it but hope you don't mind me asking...can a relay cause this oscillation? Initially, my thought was to disassemble/inspect the relay but don't know if this is a worthwhile attempt to troubleshoot. Your post is like Dejavu re. what I was thinking of doing. Any suggestions re. if this could be the problem and if it can be addressed by cleaning are appreciated?
    Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 18,335
    Options
    I can't imagine a scenario to where a relay would cause oscillations. FWIW.

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,479
    Options
    Thanks, that's my thought but every time I tried to locate the sound I was back to this part.
    Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,132
    Options
    GB=Model number
    2C=Form
    D24=Coil Voltage 24VDC
    P=PCB

    So it's a 24v probably peak 30vdc

    dasq5v303ph7.png

    http://www.handouk.co.kr/english/02_product/general/products/gb-4c.php


    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,479
    edited December 2022
    Options
    txcoastal1 wrote: »

    Thanks, I'd found that. I'll be the first to admit I have no problem replacing exact parts but don't have much electronics training/experience outside XO upgrades. If it's not something obvious, simple or a proven solution I'll cry uncle and take it in for an estimate.

    Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,352
    edited December 2022
    Options
    Man, I see complicated! LOL Is relay buzzing? You'd have to check if the relay is getting steady power.

    In my case, no power, relay cover off, I could push contacts closed and measure resistance through contacts. I could visually see contact faces, check for pitting. My relays were closing solidly with click and I could physically see that with top cover removed, so no need for me to test circuit powering relay coils.

    Using relay data sheet, you could tack solder some different color wires onto board relay terminals and remotely test for steady voltage when powered on and output through contacts, but that's a lot of disassembly/reassembly. You'd have to secure the ends of wires too, mark them for function, don't cross the streams, don't touch, be careful, etc.
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,479
    edited December 2022
    Options
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    Is relay buzzing?

    Don't think so and, coincidentally, I had this happen on an old Belkin surge protector a few days ago. Distinct buzz, not oscillation. When I opened the case and placed a finger on the relay housing I could feel it. Buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz!
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    Man, I see complicated! LOL...that's a lot of disassembly/reassembly...You'd have to secure the ends of wires too, mark them for function, don't cross the streams, don't touch, be careful, etc.

    LOL...I'll quote myself....
    JayCee wrote: »
    If it's not something obvious, simple or a proven solution I'll cry uncle and take it in for an estimate.

    Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,534
    Options
    Good luck @JayCee ! I’m rooting for you being able to get it fixed.

    @SCompRacer ….. once again stellar work but that’s pretty much expected from you :smile:
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,479
    Options
    Good luck @JayCee ! I’m rooting for you being able to get it fixed.

    Thanks, bud. Still have the HDMI board (or more) earmarked for you in the event it doesn't work out.
    Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬