Monitor 10a C/O Rebuild Question
Faustin
Posts: 1,149
Redoing c/o's for my brother. He picked up a mint pair of 1978 10's from the original owner. Still had the original boxes, though they were in pretty bad shape due to age.
As we know, the caps are much larger than the original ones that Polk used. On previous c/o overhauls, due to the lack of room on the boards, I have mounted the resistors on the bottom of the boards. I can do this project the same way, or I was wondering if there is any reason why I can't sit the resistor on top of the cap and solder the resistor directly to the leads on the cap. In this case it would be the 2.5 ohm resistor to the 12uf cap. Or is it best to solder the resistor directly to the appropriate copper trace on the board?
As we know, the caps are much larger than the original ones that Polk used. On previous c/o overhauls, due to the lack of room on the boards, I have mounted the resistors on the bottom of the boards. I can do this project the same way, or I was wondering if there is any reason why I can't sit the resistor on top of the cap and solder the resistor directly to the leads on the cap. In this case it would be the 2.5 ohm resistor to the 12uf cap. Or is it best to solder the resistor directly to the appropriate copper trace on the board?
Comments
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Maybe WMG or VR3 will weigh in. I think as long as you leave a 1/8" gap for air flow between the resistor and *whatever*, any of the 3 ways are fine. Don't make any bends too close to the components or solder too close to the components.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
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iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
In your case since the resistor is in parallel with the cap you can do that. I wouldn't, but you can.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
In your case since the resistor is in parallel with the cap you can do that. I wouldn't, but you can.
Just curious as to why you would not mount/assemble the components that way? -
Personal preference.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Heat is the enemy. Since it's shunting the capacitor, it's not carrying the full current for the tweeter and may get warm, but not hot.
I still prefer to keep the resistors as cool as possible, with space beneath them, and plenty of air around them.
Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Thanks folks for all the great advice!
