Polk RTI A3 crossover component identification.

Johnsizzle
Johnsizzle Posts: 7
in Troubleshooting
Hi All,

I have a damaged crossover pcb and i am trying to source a replacement. Can anyone identify what this component is? The only markings on the side is 5V. Maybe someone has a schematic for this part?

Thanks in advance.

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Answers

  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    Are both speakers damaged? The other speaker if undamaged should have the values
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Johnsizzle
    Johnsizzle Posts: 7
    I believe its 5W not V and I may found something that might work. Can any experts on here confirm this would work? https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/yageo/SQM500JB-10R/9166584
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  • SeleniumFalcon
    SeleniumFalcon Posts: 3,831
    I've asked a friend at Polk what the value is for R1 and R2, I believe the burned one is R2.
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  • Johnsizzle
    Johnsizzle Posts: 7
    The burned one is R2. Thanks for checking on it it.
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  • SeleniumFalcon
    SeleniumFalcon Posts: 3,831
    My friend is out of his office today, you could always look at the other speaker's crossover.
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  • Johnsizzle
    Johnsizzle Posts: 7
    Copy that. Unfortunately the other speaker is not available to me at the moment. I might not get my hands on it until next week.
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    Hope this helps:
    R1 - 2.4
    R2 - 5.7
    C1 - 8.2
    C2 - .47
    C3 - 27
    T: 2.4ohms, 8.2uf & .47
    MW: 27uf, 5.7 ohms
    If you need more resistor details, Tomorrow I may have time to pull a spare ‘A3 down from storage and pull the XO.

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • Johnsizzle
    Johnsizzle Posts: 7
    Thanks Tony. I am having trouble finding 5.7Ω. any chance that might be 4.7 rather than 5.7?

    https://canada.newark.com/tt-electronics-international-resistive/cvw54r70jlf/wirewound-resistor-4-7-ohm-5w/dp/40M8834

    Either way your assistance/input is much appreciated.
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  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,949
    Post + Username
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    Tomorrow I will try to make time.

    My spare* ‘A3s* are kinda difficult to get to. I’ll post pics and a heartfelt “I’m sorry” if we learn that I fat-fingered the info years ago.

    “T”
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    5.6 ohm
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • SeleniumFalcon
    SeleniumFalcon Posts: 3,831
    lj5ifz9kmjd8.png
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  • Johnsizzle
    Johnsizzle Posts: 7
    Thank seleniumfalcon, 5.7 it is. Seems like a hard one to find, I have found 5.6 https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/ohmite/TWW5J5R6E/824555
    would this be acceptable I wonder....
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  • SeleniumFalcon
    SeleniumFalcon Posts: 3,831

    I think that would be a good choice.
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  • SeleniumFalcon
    SeleniumFalcon Posts: 3,831
    I checked in my parts bin and I found a 5.7 ohm 5 watt resistor that I'd be happy to send you at no charge.
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  • Johnsizzle
    Johnsizzle Posts: 7
    No way. That is super cool of you, I'll PM you my address and I'll try and do the same for someone down the road, what a great community. thanks again all
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    I hope these help though I’m sorry for being a little late w/my “5.7” confirmation…
    iiqy7izja3d4.jpeg
    bwuiudink0eg.jpeg

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,645
    Since you cooked the 5 watt resistor I'd suggest you replace it/them with a 10 or 12 watt version. Mills has a 5.6 ohm that will work.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    edited November 2022
    F1nut wrote: »
    I'd suggest you replace it/them with a 10 or 12 watt version. Mills has a 5.6 ohm that will work.
    Great idea Jesse 😊!

    OP: Look at the pic I posted before Jesse. Find the yellow .47uf cap starring up at us mid/center pic. In the past I believe Jesse has suggested that cap blows rather easily and/or is the chief offender for the RTi A series speakers infamously “hot” top end. Feel free to correct me, Jesse. To that end he’s suggested either replacing* or de-soldering* one side of that cap.
    *can’t recall which, though at .47uf, likely you won’t miss it’s ”nano level” positive contribution while greatly enjoying the softer top end.

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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