Def Tech BP2002

2

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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    Spent some time this AM JBL Welding the first speakers drivers. Still haven’t attempted to do anything with the busted tweeter just yet. I think I got it on all the right places but let me know if I missed something.


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    Will install the drivers I just did when I get home (the stuff I got said 4-6 hour cure time), and do the remaining drivers this afternoon and reinstall late this evening.

    Won’t be playing them for a bit still since I am going out of town starting tomorrow (hence wanting to get ‘em back in the speakers tonight so they are out of the way for our house sitter).
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    SeleniumFalcon wrote: »
    I believe those are Alpha brand pots, do a search for "Alpha A5k" and there seems to be some for sale on eBay.

    That was also suggested by someone on DIYAudio so I will check them out.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    Realized the first set I JB Welded I did wrong but am gonna leave them alone until about 11, and then let them sit overnight and install them all tomorrow morning before I leave.

    Also took apart the pot to see if the shaft was at all salvageable or interchangeable with a Amazon part of sorts. Don’t think there is a way to connect another unfortunately.

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    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,419
    You'll need to replace the whole thing Dan, you're just asking for trouble by halfassing it. Can you say static....
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    You'll need to replace the whole thing Dan, you're just asking for trouble by halfassing it. Can you say static....

    Yes I kinda realized that. I just hate the idea of soldering but I’m committed to GOING THE DISTANCE…..

    Also had hoped to get see addl manufacturer info and either way had to pull that all off even if replacing.

    Half tempted to put it 50% and test it just to prove the amp is working, but got JB Weld to dry so maybe in a couple days lol.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,494
    edited September 2022
    EndersShadow wrote: »

    Half tempted to put it 50% and test it just to prove the amp is working, but got JB Weld to dry so maybe in a couple days lol.

    You could do that. You could also drill a small hole in center of broken shaft and stick a screw in it to test full range adjustment. You could also leave them 'fixed' like that if you wanted a half-fast repair. :o

    Even if you sourced the correct part, most times the knob portion is larger diameter than the shaft so you can't completely disassemble and reassemble it around the PCB mounted resistive material portion. Sometimes the wiper portion is installed after shaft -with larger knob end- is inserted in pot body, then resistive material, then wiper attached to shaft.

    Per Ken's suggestion, on ebay. US seller.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/304482854457

    If you did stop by...yeah, more Cake reference... I have that on vinyl, BTW...lol

    https://youtu.be/XiyoCZUwwYg

    The pot sold on ebay does have a nub on front that would engage a hole in panel. That can be filed off.

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    Post edited by SCompRacer on
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    Even if you sourced the correct part, most times the knob portion is larger diameter than the shaft so you can't completely disassemble and reassemble it around the PCB mounted resistive material portion. Sometimes the wiper portion is installed after shaft -with larger knob end- is inserted in pot body, then resistive material, then wiper attached to shaft.

    Per Ken's suggestion, on ebay. US seller.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/304482854457

    The pot sold on ebay does have a nub on front that would engage a hole in panel. That can be filed off.

    Yup I’d have to….. cause I just bought two of those lol……

    I am still not sure about dropping by, will let you know as soon as I do lol.

    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    edited October 2022
    So got in the new binding posts…. I think there might be a problem….

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    Nothing a drill bit and nylon washers can solve!

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    Note: if the amp works I’m going to be buying a set of these but figured I’d use the free stuff first)

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    Speaking of which I realized I could just cut a line in the pot shaft to allow me to adjust with a screwdriver (to test)….

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    And lastly my buddy used an old tube shield as a jig for the tweeter magnet so it’s drying as we speak….. if this works is saves me around 50 bucks which is what a used driverseems to go for on eBay.

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    We did also try a few of his spare tweeter magnets and while a few were close, all of them left a bit of a gap between the magnet and bracket so they didn’t work :frowning:.

    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,494
    EndersShadow wrote: »



    Speaking of which I realized I could just cut a line in the pot shaft to allow me to adjust with a screwdriver (to test)….

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    Continuing with malaphors, now you're stinking! :D Good work!
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    EndersShadow wrote: »



    Speaking of which I realized I could just cut a line in the pot shaft to allow me to adjust with a screwdriver (to test)….

    i9of40salzj1.jpeg



    Continuing with malaphors, now you're stinking! :D Good work!

    Thanks lol….. I almost went down the JB Weld route then had a stoke of brilliance (so I’m tapped out for the year).

    I’m gonna try and have my buddy install the new ones if he is willing. If not imma hit you up for a loan. We didn’t travel this weekend (everyone’s sick) so won’t be stopping by lol…

    Hoping that tweeter works too though it WAS filled w ferrofluid so not sure how big a deal NOT having that is, or if I should try and refill it (stuff sucks to get on your hands).
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,194
    What a great thread. Bringing back a speaker back to life. Awesome.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    edited October 2022
    Our jig for the tweeter worked just fine and it now works as anticipated.

    I tested it last night by itself directly connected to my Cambridge using low level techno to check for coil rub and couldn’t hear anything.

    I reinstalled the tweeter and fired up that speaker by itself and while the tweeters and mids are now all playing, the woofer still will not engage.

    I did disconnect the woofer from the mids and lows and ran the speaker wire direct in just it but still no joy.

    The amp power light comes on so that’s encouraging, but I don’t get a turn on thump with it so maybe not as much as I’d like lol…

    Given I took part the pot and have kinda hacked it back together I’m not too concerned yet that it’s not working. I also am not 100% confident in my binding post job lol…

    I DID NOT try it using the LFE because: [ a ] it was late, [ b ] I don’t have a cable long enough to test on my main system.

    That’s the plan to test tonight, along with running the woofer free air to confirm it works, then again by connecting it to the mids binding post.

    I’m also going to JB Weld the tweeter magnet tonight as well so we don’t go down THAT rabbit hole again lol.

    I’ve got a nasty cold and sinus thing going on so I’m trying to limit my exposure to the epoxy fumes.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    mantis wrote: »
    What a great thread. Bringing back a speaker back to life. Awesome.

    Any chance you have manuals for this, or have access to get one?
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,615
    Be very careful what woofer you plug into that amp. Those woofers can be like 64 ohms.

    Verify with definitive first
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    VR3 wrote: »
    Be very careful what woofer you plug into that amp. Those woofers can be like 64 ohms.

    Verify with definitive first

    So maybe just connect it to the mid binding posts on the amp instead?
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,615
    When testing the amp make sure you use the driver designed for it.

    I also would not plug that woofer into another amplifier
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    VR3 wrote: »
    When testing the amp make sure you use the driver designed for it.

    I also would not plug that woofer into another amplifier

    Prob smart idea lol.

    I will swap the woofers to test since the other speaker (including plate amp) is fully functional.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,615
    I would check the leads coming off the voice coil of the woofer if it is non functioning... Those lead wires are seriously like 30 gauge and very tirlny for a subwoofer. I actually had to repair one like that many moons ago
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    VR3 wrote: »
    I would check the leads coming off the voice coil of the woofer if it is non functioning... Those lead wires are seriously like 30 gauge and very tirlny for a subwoofer. I actually had to repair one like that many moons ago

    Good call. Will take a look at those if the woofer fails to work on the other speakers amp.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    edited October 2022
    Swapped woofers between speakers and they both work in the left speaker. Neither works when connected in the right.

    Put things back where they were, connected the L/R RCAs, disconnected the woofer from the mid and main, and tried to get some music going.

    Tween the amp turned on there was a bit of a thump, but beyond that no music came out when driven.

    So given it appears that the amp is capable of delivering power, and the driver will play fine, I’m pretty hopefully it’s just the pots that are the problem (and my ghetto fix didn’t do anything lol).

    They don’t come in until Thursday.
    Post edited by EndersShadow on
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,494
    edited October 2022
    Is it an Icky Thump or more like a blunt thump?

    https://youtu.be/1OjTspCqvk8


    :D
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,615
    All Def tech subs have an on and off thump, very normal
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    VR3 wrote: »
    All Def tech subs have an on and off thump, very normal

    Yup don’t think it was anything other than normal.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    The pots came in as did the longer and better binding posts.

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    Then I found a local Def Tech ProSub 80 for cheap that was blowing fuses and was for sale as-is…. This was great because it has BOTH a level and crossover knob that matched my speakers so I snatched that up.

    I’m gonna resell the cabinet empty for what I paid for the entire setup and trash the sub and amp.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    It’s been a bit since I updated this. On Monday I installed the new binding posts.

    Yesterday my buddy was able to install the new pots. In order to do that we needed to disconnect the board from the plate (which acts as a heat sink).

    Because of that I needed to replace the thermal paste, which I did this morning.

    Everything is back connected and my hope is tonight to test if the plate amp is back and working.

    If it is I’m planning to see how annoying/expensive it is to replace ferrofluid since my guess is both tweeters might benefit from that (or at least the one I fixed which has none).

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    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,419
    Look at you go buddy ;)
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Look at you go buddy ;)

    Trying :). I’ve always wanted to try Def Tech and this seemed like a good way to try and learn about them too.

    If I was a SMART MAN (hint I’m not) I would have bought VR3s hot rodded BP2002TL…..
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    THEY LIVE!!!!!

    Both are up and running. Doing some non critical listening just to test if there are any lose rattles or whatnot.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,494
    High marks Dan! Good job.
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    Ran XT32 this morning and the differences to me are obvious in how these are EQd. I don’t think I have a before of the SDAs (didn’t think to take one), but the after for the def techs reveal that they needed much less EQ above 100hz, and obviously the subs needed more EQ than the SDAs single 10” passive.

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    So far after EQ things sound a lot more “sharp” than before.

    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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