Def Tech Mythos Ones and Mythos Twos

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Nabbed a pair of each tonight for $300 total; thank you The Record Exchange!

Only hooked up the Ones so far.

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First impressions: clean, detailed, honest, good bass depth (but likely not as low as specs suggest), tight, fast, and punchy sound.

Can say with certainty, sealed subs will bring these to a whole new level. These are articulate and defined in the bass, but lacking some body.

Presumably these will perform admirably in a surround sound application with a proper bass foundation.

Will serve double duty very well if required.

Do they compete with the ESLs behind them? HECK NO!

But as far as dynamic drivers go, they have a lot to offer and sound very good and lively.
CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC

DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)

Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777

Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)

Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150

Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i

Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart

Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables.

Comments

  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,786
    edited August 2022
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    What's up with the UPSes
    sb2ojx4p9kug.png
    Post edited by Clipdat on
  • jbreezy5
    jbreezy5 Posts: 1,141
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    CAPS?

    Emphasis

    IMO, the ESLs outclass the Mythos Ones quite a bit.

    I would say the Dynaudio Audience 82s do also. But this mostly comes down to overall balance.

    The Ones do not give true full-range response on their own; as a result, they simply cannot suspend disbelief on music without low frequency assistance.

    As a matter of fact even Wharfedale Diamond 10.2s (bookies), flesh out the bass more convincingly, even if not reaching as deeply there.
    CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC

    DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)

    Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777

    Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)

    Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150

    Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i

    Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart

    Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables.
  • jbreezy5
    jbreezy5 Posts: 1,141
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    Clipdat wrote: »
    What's up with the UPSes
    sb2ojx4p9kug.png

    😄 I see I replied during edit.

    These are:

    UPS/voltage regulation/line filtration/surge protection/sine wave.

    I have them in all my systems. Protect from unplanned electric meter installers, thunderstorms, brownouts, and under/over voltage.

    People usually cite concerns of current limiting. I’ve never gotten even slightly close to that and have peace of mind my gear won’t be damaged by unexpected power loss.
    CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC

    DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)

    Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777

    Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)

    Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150

    Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i

    Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart

    Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables.
  • jbreezy5
    jbreezy5 Posts: 1,141
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    Last weekend had to replace a binding post on one of the Mythos Ones; luckily Def Tech had some available for this legacy product. It was about $10 shipped.

    To replace had to remove the bottom plate, which was odd, because the rear bottom screws were partially covered by a bit of metal flange which was distinct, yet attached, to the speaker base (the base of the actual speaker itself, not the screw-on glass stand).

    This resulted in some damage to the quasi-metal flange blocking the screws (philips head). This lead me to think maybe this design was purposeful to discourage owners from disassembly, or risk voiding their warranty.

    Purely speculative on my part, but the flange being damaged had no negative impact on reassembly, and was absolutely necessary to remove the bottom plate to get to the binding posts.

    I had to use a socket by hand (opening too small due to size/shape of the cabinet) to remove the binding post, which was connected by wire with one of those slide-on clip things. Can you tell I’m a Mr. Fix-it, or what? 😄

    Anyway, the job was relatively simple, moderately easy to do, but a little tedious at different points in the process.
    CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC

    DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)

    Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777

    Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)

    Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150

    Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i

    Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart

    Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables.
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,126
    edited August 2022
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    I've Installed the Mythos series many times. The 1's are damn nice sounding speakers. They are not full range as you noticed. If you mate them with a proper subwoofer or 2, cross them over at 80hz, they are a different speaker all together. They really open up and sound incredible. I really like the Mythos 1's a lot . But I don't like them on their own.

    Def Tech I don't know where they get their frequency response measurements from , they the do not hit anywhere near 20hz. It's been a long time since I tested them but I recall somewhere in the 30hz range they start to fall off hard. Maybe it was like 35hz? I don't remember.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,947
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    mantis wrote: »
    I've Installed the Mythos series many times. The 1's are damn nice sounding speakers. They are not full range as you noticed. If you mate them with a proper subwoofer or 2, cross them over at 80hz, they are a different speaker all together. They really open up and sound incredible. I really like the Mythos 1's a lot . But I don't like them on their own.

    Welcome back Dan!
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,320
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    Definitive does -10db measurements so 20hz is like 45hz or so
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.