Can’t find PolkAudio speaker model number
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Flora
Posts: 3
I wanted to find out if my front speakers are bi-amp and the second set of terminals hooked up To the extra sp1 outputs on my rx-a2070 receiver (and if it really makes a difference…)
It also has an attractive angled top if that helps identify the model
It also has an attractive angled top if that helps identify the model
Best Answers
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I don't know the model# but if you look at the back of the speakers, if they are bi-ampable or bi-wirable they will have 4 binding posts each and you will see a couple of straps that should be in place. Those would have to be removed if you try bi amping or bi wiring, assuming they are capable of it.
https://www.audioholics.com/frequent-questions/the-difference-between-biamping-vs-biwiringGeorge / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
I poked around a bit more based on things said on the forum in the past and they appear to be Polk RM8000T or RM50T towers. The VM and RM series came out around the same time about 15 years ago from what I can tell. They were intended for use with wall mounted flat screen panel TVs that were coming out.
https://www.woot.com/offers/polk-audio-rm8000t-rm50t-tower-speakers
The RM50T was the dark color model and the RM8000T was the silver color.
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bi-amp and the second set of terminals hooked up To the extra sp1 outputs on my rx-a2070 receiver (and if it really makes a difference…)
You shouldn't do this because it's not true bi-amping (meaning two amplifiers & two power supplies), because everything is still coming from the same shared power supply inside the AVR. You won't gain any performance by doing this.
Keep the wires connected to either the top set or bottom set of posts, with the jumpers in place.
If you want to upgrade the speakers or amplifier/AVR to something higher quality, we can guide you, but there's a hard limit to what you're going to hear out of your current Yamaha AVR and speakers. -
Your Yamaha AVR has pre-outs, so you'd gain a lot more by hooking up a dedicated 2 (or ideally, three channel, with a center channel speaker) amplifier and going in that direction.
Basically all depends on how serious you want to get and what you're trying to accomplish (ex. movies, music, both etc). But yeah simply trying to use an "unused channel" to fake bi-amp using an AVR is not going to get you anywhere.
I have hooked up a 5.1 configuration. I recently reconfigured my living room and noticed one of the jumpers is missing from my front left tower speaker. Manual for RX-A2070 say you can bi-amp using front SP1 outputs. I already have an extra speaker wire and need only one more to bi-amp. Or I need to locate missing jumper (or get replacement). I don’t need more performance (if performance is measured in volume). My place is small and I don’t believe I’m stressing the speakers at all. I listen to blues/jazz. My husband goes for Led Zeppelin’s music style. Periodically watch moves and I go for Jason Bourne type movies with lots of crashes and explosions.
From your prior posts, sounds like I should just replace the jumper. With no extra sound details from bi-amping. I appreciate the advice. -
You can make yourself a new jumper using a short piece of speaker wire, and put it in where the metal jumper used to be. Like this:
This guy replaced both his jumpers with speaker wire:
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Throw those jumpers away & use clean speaker wire. Cut little peices & run em like the jumpers were.... That will work better then those cheesy metal jumpers..
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Randy/Maine
Answers
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Pretty sure that is not a Polk audio speaker. At any rate you're not gaining anything, in fact you may be actually reducing the power going to the speakers. Bi-amping with a receiver is marketing flim/flam. The best benefit would be to make jumpers to replace the brass strap with IF you do indeed have 4 binding post.
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Looks like the old Polk vm but u can't find that exact driver arrangement- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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I don't recall seeing a Polk Audio product looking like those.
If there aren't any external labels on the back of the cabinets indicating they are a Polk Audio product, maybe unscrew one of the speaker drivers and look inside for any identifying labels such as a driver number or something on the crossover board inside. -
This is the closest i can find
- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
Rm! Man... This is a sign I am getting old.
Sid the old man 🧓- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
Damn, if this don't make ya' feel old....
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Rm! Man... This is a sign I am getting old.
Sid the old man 🧓
At least you had an inkling, I've NEVER seen anything close to those, then again I'm much older ....
Ummm what were qe talking about? -
You can't bi- amp with an AVR, PERIOD.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
You can't bi- amp with an AVR, PERIOD.
Some AVRs allow you to re-assign 2 internal amps to "biamp" the front channels. Given that they share the same power supply though, I'm not sure I disagree with your assessment.Sonus Faber Liuto / Coda Continuum / Anthem STR Preamplifier / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts -
I poked around a bit more based on things said on the forum in the past and they appear to be Polk RM8000T or RM50T towers. The VM and RM series came out around the same time about 15 years ago from what I can tell. They were intended for use with wall mounted flat screen panel TVs that were coming out.
https://www.woot.com/offers/polk-audio-rm8000t-rm50t-tower-speakers
The RM50T was the dark color model and the RM8000T was the silver color.
That is EXACTLY the model I have. MY BAD, though, as I should have mentioned that I am ancient and thought I bought these speakers (new) about 10 to 15 years ago…. Back then there were a large number of people buying into the promise of the tiniest cube speakers and these were going cheap at Sound and Vision. (You’re really old if you remember walking into their sound room to compare speakers before you bought them. I just can’t image relying solely on reviews; Just not sure I hear the same as someone else…)
I really appreciate this as I was wondering about their bi-amp capability and got may answer!
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Your Yamaha AVR has pre-outs, so you'd gain a lot more by hooking up a dedicated 2 (or ideally, three channel, with a center channel speaker) amplifier and going in that direction.
Basically all depends on how serious you want to get and what you're trying to accomplish (ex. movies, music, both etc). But yeah simply trying to use an "unused channel" to fake bi-amp using an AVR is not going to get you anywhere.
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You can replace the jumpers on the speakers with short lengths of speaker wire if you can’t find the originals. No need to run extra speaker wire to them. They’re not hard to drive with even a modest receiver and the one you have is very good.
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boston1450 wrote: »Nm. Vanilla format stinks
Agreed. When I look at this thread Vanilla goes to the first post instead of the one after the last post when I previously viewed the thread.
Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
Exactly. What it should show is (check mark) that the OP agrees OR accepts all suggestions as they happen. Not move the post.... Future readers looking at archived threads must be scratching their heads...
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Randy/Maine -
If those are anything like my R50’s (and I suspect they’re better), you’d be very surprised at how much better they sound with good amplification.
Glad you were able to get your questions answered.Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
