Forum member MW magnet repair tool set

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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,497
    edited August 2023
    Wow. Yep that one is an assembly snafu par excellence. The voice coil should be overhung by 1/8" on the top and bottom of the front plate (baseplate).

    It is no wonder this driver puts out a lower dB amount.

    It is possible that it got slammed with so much overcurrent that the VC former got mashed into the pole piece plate. I think I see that the cone is distorted (can see in the reflection), besides what you pointed out with the folded up feature at the joint between the cone and VC.
    Post edited by Gardenstater on
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited August 2023
    I surmise a Wu-coil will sound much better :D

    From your pics it looks as if the coil was forced forward somehow. Never seen that severity before. Crinkled cone center near former I've seen a few times on mag shifts
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • Finally wrapping up the M5B driver. Seller said "tested and it works" but figured we had differing definitions of "works". Here is what it looked like (note the permanent state of extreme excursion).
    qvh2xooy45z1.jpg
    Have a feeling it was stuck this way for a VERY long period of time, as once it was finally freed up it returned to this position in resting state.
    Here is what the driver looked like apart.
    sfb1lfbxtf50.jpg
    7o6cwcoeo6k6.jpg
    jrwen5rv9hmn.jpg
    As you can see not only was the baseplate ID small to begin with, it also had pretty serious corrosion. The VC would not even move through the baseplate in the above pictures.
    Dremmeled the baseplate ID until it finally would move freely and re-assembled. Noticed it was resting at nearly the same excursion as before the work.
    Decided to let it sit with a weight on the cone (just enough to bring the resting position a touch below where it should be) for 24 hours. Ran through DATS at that point and it looked good. After dinner returned and could see that the cone was once again resting in a high excursion position. Frustrating.
    So did another over-night of cone weighting and re-ran DATS. Looked good again so went ahead and glued it last night.
    Returned this afternoon and can see it returning to high excursion resting (but not quite as pronounced). Ran through DATS and here is what it measured this afternoon.
    t054bvhgqz07.jpg
    zjhurgncvix4.jpg
    So it is under the weight again.
    The other M5B came with no driver (knew this going in) so it got a donor MW6502 that I already had. Crossovers look like this.
    m7blg7uraugm.jpg
    At any rate my work with the jig is finished (can't get to the 6500 driver #2 Wu-coil overhaul until next month at the earliest).
    So looking into who is next on the jig waitlist. Was it @plastic_avatar ?
    "One great object of the Constitution was to restrain majorities from oppressing minoritites or encroaching upon their just rights."
    -James K. Polk, 11th President of the United States
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    This is prime example why you also shouldn't store the MW's laying flat on their cones/surrounds. Over long periods, the spiders develope a "memory".

    In your case here, you could help the driver by doing just that, and laying it on a 6.25" diameter by 1/4" thick cardboard circle and let it set for a long time.
    Heating with an air dryer does speed up the process some.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • The jig is w/ @Kryten.

    If he posts here that he'll send it, you can step ahead of me in line. I'll take it after you're done.

    C'mon, Kryten. Help us out. Send it to MrGeology tomorrow. He needs it, stat.
    The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * custom 5B on a system for my Dad * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage
  • bcwsrt
    bcwsrt Posts: 1,917
    xschop wrote: »
    Loaner jig #2 being sent out Monday to @MrGeology

    Brian

    One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,549
    edited August 2023
    The jig is w/ @Kryten.
    C'mon, Kryten. Help us out. Send it to MrGeology tomorrow. He needs it, stat.

    Mar 27, 2023
    Last Active

    This is why we tend to draw the line at 100 post. This member had less than 100.


  • pitdogg2 wrote: »
    The jig is w/ @Kryten.
    C'mon, Kryten. Help us out. Send it to MrGeology tomorrow. He needs it, stat.

    Mar 27, 2023
    Last Active

    This is why we tend to draw the line at 100 post. This member had less than 100.


    After @xschop confirms he has received the required $60 deposit I will send the jig out.
    Already sent a pm to @plastic_avatar explaining this.
    "One great object of the Constitution was to restrain majorities from oppressing minoritites or encroaching upon their just rights."
    -James K. Polk, 11th President of the United States
  • Sorry for the confusion. I know the setup for the jig that's still in circulation =)

    I've got an approximation of the real jig, in PVC [laughs]. No, it is not the same... xschop's work is amazing.

    Whoever is next for jig #2, I wasn't jumping the line ;)
    The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * custom 5B on a system for my Dad * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    I can vouch for @plastic_avatar if he needs it. Stand up guy right there.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,111
    MrGeology wrote: »
    ...
    Returned this afternoon and can see it returning to high excursion resting (but not quite as pronounced).
    So it is under the weight again.

    Would repeated, gentle heat treatments possibly help with the surround recovery? Is the thought here that the rubber has simply deformed to new memory. At a micro level, I imagine we're talking about overstretching and thinning around a particular area?

    I don't suppose there's a way to warm bathe it? Just the surround?

    Since it's trashed, how about the oiling process, maybe combined with heat? (is the rubber still supple or hardened to an extent?)

    I'm sure this has been discussed somewhere, but is there not a surround kit available? That'd be my last resort, as I don't like the mods with unknowns, and I can't imaging you'd get any sort of compliance or performance spec on an original driver surround, and especially not from a generic replacement.

    From what I've seen you guys post about suspension evaluation, this seems to be an important factor.

    As a complete troglodyte, is it the spider that controls the cone suspension, or the surround? Trying to understand what's drawing or pushing this cone outward.

    I don't know anything about what you guys are doing, but pop in periodically to watch.
    I disabled signatures.
  • MrGeology
    MrGeology Posts: 83
    edited August 2023
    The surround feels and looks as it should. Pretty sure the spider is the culprit here.
    It is responding well to the weight treatment, but will probably take some time. Heating it might speed up the process but I would rather be patient for the sake of longevity.
    "One great object of the Constitution was to restrain majorities from oppressing minoritites or encroaching upon their just rights."
    -James K. Polk, 11th President of the United States
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,497
    edited August 2023
    I plan on trying the hair dryer method on the spiders of my OEM drivers, along with these alignment jigs I fabricated, in the future when I'm hopefully not dealing with other crises that always seem to take precedence over audio lately (lol). Rob has his alternative method that he came up with that would work well also. My jigs maintain perpendicularity, concentricity (with small shims), and overhang so it should work like braces on your kids teeth over time and in fact that is how I have been storing my drivers (on my steam radiator) and I check them periodically and one is in perfect alignment except for the overhang and the other one is still close to rubbing but not rubbing. They need spider re-settling or whatever you could call it.

    q7ez7iwlcuao.jpg
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,111
    I just had to go check my spare 6510. It's stored on its back.
    With a buncha books on top.
    I disabled signatures.
  • MrGeology
    MrGeology Posts: 83
    edited September 2023
    M5B 6502 progress update.
    Did a manual time-lapse photo set of the drivers resting excursion after weight removal. Took more than a dozen pics over a 48 hr interval, then compared them to better understand what is happening.
    The excursion slowly rebounds over time, and by 16 hrs it reaches its final resting state. The excursion is the same at 48 hrs as it is at 16 hrs.
    Here are a few pics of the setup and some close-up crops with mark-ups.

    The weight was just kicking around in my electrical parts drawer and works great for concentric distribution.
    f8zq4nmn1y9o.jpg
    j1jutx532jlu.jpg

    The time lapse setup:
    1t9sm43nd4yd.jpg
    olqelhvqae8q.jpg
    pp3yh6klui6c.jpg
    0pfnxffcjfhu.jpg


    Crops with mark-ups:
    2u6cd32nog50.jpg
    yz1kpirjs9y1.jpg
    sgw8hbrao9ao.jpg
    x0mtws6tjrgg.jpg

    This pretty much covers the rebound process. It looks the same at 48 hrs as it does at 16 hrs.

    It also looks good enough in DATS that it will now go back into the M5B to await crossover upgrades etc...
    "One great object of the Constitution was to restrain majorities from oppressing minoritites or encroaching upon their just rights."
    -James K. Polk, 11th President of the United States
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited May 24
    Bump for @JayMX

    "The 6500's are just as bad as 6510'2 and 6511's for suspension sag and the fact that there is a smaller VC clearance at the base plate than all other MW's

    When I fix one, I remove a few thousandths from the base plate ID and re-center.

    I sent another billet jig out and you can use it. I'll find the thread and bump.

    What I have done a couple times is put the MW flange in a jig, heat the T-yolk while having a 1/2" wooded flat between the magnet/t-yolk and the steel frame. after a minute or so of heating the t-yoke, it'll pop right off with the phase plug still attached."

    I performed this method on all four of my extra phase-plugged 6516's to add focus rings.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.