HT Subwoofer Opinions

hochpt21

Thanks for the feedback so far.

Maybe because the older PC Ultra was a cylinder sub with 3 ports it had better real world performance in my room?

In my first post, I said 4,000 cu ft, but after measuring again it’s closer to 4,700.

The 15” Mono v1 of course went out of stock in the past couple days. I got on an alert list if they happen to bring it back.

vader540is

hochpt21 wrote: »

Thanks for the feedback so far.

Maybe because the older PC Ultra was a cylinder sub with 3 ports it had better real world performance in my room?

In my first post, I said 4,000 cu ft, but after measuring again it’s closer to 4,700.

The 15” Mono v1 of course went out of stock in the past couple days. I got on an alert list if they happen to bring it back.

Sounds like you are sitting in a null. I would highly recommend buying a Umik-1 and getting the free REW software and see what is going on in your room before you return those subs.

Two PB2000 should be very good as long as you have realistic expectations for those two in your room.

IMHO You do have a massive room.

My living room is 16x14x9 with two wide open door ways and I used to have two PB12NSD and I upgraded a bunch of times. Here are some subs.

PB4000
PB16 Ultra

Rythmik FV15HP

Power Sound Audio TV1512

And now I'm currently content with a Power Sound Audio TV1812

Here is a sweep with ZERO EQ and I love how much headroom I have. I'll buy a 2nd one to fix the nulls I have.

I already bought a Mini-DSP-HD and I'll be learning how to utilize it soon.

WLDock

This right here!>>>

vader540is wrote: »

Sounds like you are sitting in a null. I would highly recommend buying a Umik-1 and getting the free REW software and see what is going on in your room before you return those subs.

Two PB2000 should be very good as long as you have realistic expectations for those two in your room.

IMHO You do have a massive room.

My living room is 16x14x9 with two wide open door ways and I used to have two PB12NSD and I upgraded a bunch of times. Here are some subs.

PB4000
PB16 Ultra

Rythmik FV15HP

Power Sound Audio TV1512

And now I'm currently content with a Power Sound Audio TV1812

Here is a sweep with ZERO EQ and I love how much headroom I have. I'll buy a 2nd one to fix the nulls I have.

I already bought a Mini-DSP-HD and I'll be learning how to utilize it soon.

That is a HUGE ROOM you have. It might be worth it to get measurement equipment. A very well known subwoofer guru / manufacture was having response issue with a mega buck installation. After measuring he found where the problem was and the fix was to reverse the phase of one sub!

A big bad 15", 18", 22", 24" sub/s are what you need! I see that you were thinking DIY at one time, have you given up on that idea?

Two of these $199.95 18" monsters in a couple of large ported enclosures powered by a $300 Behringer NX3000 900W/Ch @ 4 Ohm pro amp should rock the house! https://stereointegrity.com/product/ht-18-v3/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K71-KqcJZXs&t=3s

vader540is

Those HT18 are a great value.

If you're not comfortable cutting wood etc...you can buy flat packs from GSG & Part express.

hochpt21

WLDock wrote: »

This right here!>>>

vader540is wrote: »

Sounds like you are sitting in a null. I would highly recommend buying a Umik-1 and getting the free REW software and see what is going on in your room before you return those subs.

Two PB2000 should be very good as long as you have realistic expectations for those two in your room.

IMHO You do have a massive room.

My living room is 16x14x9 with two wide open door ways and I used to have two PB12NSD and I upgraded a bunch of times. Here are some subs.

PB4000
PB16 Ultra

Rythmik FV15HP

Power Sound Audio TV1512

And now I'm currently content with a Power Sound Audio TV1812

Here is a sweep with ZERO EQ and I love how much headroom I have. I'll buy a 2nd one to fix the nulls I have.

I already bought a Mini-DSP-HD and I'll be learning how to utilize it soon.

That is a HUGE ROOM you have. It might be worth it to get measurement equipment. A very well known subwoofer guru / manufacture was having response issue with a mega buck installation. After measuring he found where the problem was and the fix was to reverse the phase of one sub!

A big bad 15", 18", 22", 24" sub/s are what you need! I see that you were thinking DIY at one time, have you given up on that idea?

I still have that Dayton 15” driver, but to be honest, I just don’t (and won’t) have the time for that project.

I may look into the mini dsp and the software, but time and knowledge are problems there as well.

I am wondering in one big sub where the old one was would be better. (I did a sub crawl and had pretty good output from that location.) Just got an email and there are no more Mono 15 v1’s left at the $1,100 price, so it would be $1,500 for the V2.

I may just put one sub where the old one was and see how that compares as a baseline and the go from there.

Thanks for the continued input everyone.

WLDock

hochpt21 wrote: »

I may just put one sub where the old one was and see how that compares as a baseline and the go from there.

Thanks for the continued input everyone.

For sure, most definitely do that. Once you get a baseline of a single 2000 playing at its potential, add the second. Either right next to it, or stacked. See if there is a perceived increase from the coupling effect.

hochpt21

WLDock wrote: »

hochpt21 wrote: »

I may just put one sub where the old one was and see how that compares as a baseline and the go from there.

Thanks for the continued input everyone.

For sure, most definitely do that. Once you get a baseline of a single 2000 playing at its potential, add the second. Either right next to it, or stacked. See if there is a perceived increase from the coupling effect.

The spot is on the left side wall…Can it be set parallel to the wall with the ports pointing to the front of the room? or does it need to point out in the room?

WLDock

The wavelength is pretty long, either front or towards the room is fine. Pointing too close towards a wall should be avoided if possible. Also, getting the ports of both subs close to each other is good, then again the wavelength is so long that its not a big deal. They should still couple to each other.

hochpt21

Well I just spent about 2 hours and finally think I’ve solved my issue…placement.

Now I might have a new issue when my wife gets home…placement.

These things are absolutely hammering right now. Better output than the old PC Ultra by a slight to fair margin, better overall room coverage, and more difficult to locate with my ears. About what I expected.

Wow, what a difference from when I first tried them up front between my fronts. I mean, very significant.

My room could definitely accommodate bigger subs, but this is what I was looking for as far as size and output for now.

I used the opening scenes from Spectre and the bazooka/bat-bike scene from Dark Night. I don’t want to speak too soon, but I am extremely happy at the moment.

Thank you all for you input thus far and if I have additional issues/questions I will of course bring them to the table.

hochpt21

vader540is

Awesome! I knew it was a null.

Some ways to get rid of them is move the sub/subs around or get more/bigger subs.