Bad Crossover? RTi10

alecd70
alecd70 Posts: 13
Got a deal on a pair of these and some other speakers. But with my recent string of luck, one of the tweeters will not work (I've switched it out and still a no-go). The crossover doesn't look bad to me. Any idea/s? Thanks in advance for any help!a0gi6pyrfxbc.jpg
ejpewp5u2f3a.jpg

Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,646
    edited May 2021
    Jumper plates missing?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • alecd70
    alecd70 Posts: 13
    No, sir, they are there and very secure. And have banana plugs connected on the top row.
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,387
    Look for bad solder connections on the XO circuit boards.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • alecd70
    alecd70 Posts: 13
    edited May 2021
    Would the IN2- be considered a bad solder connection?01xdbrc4yut0.jpg

    dnai23hd3i2r.jpg

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,646
    edited May 2021
    The solder pad is on the green side and it appears to have a nice blob of solder on it, although it's not as shiny as one may like. Hit it with a solder iron.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,646
    Do you have a VOM?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,300
    First thing you want to look at ...see pic 2 in the thread link posted below. The white sandcast resistor is one of the first things that seem to blow in the RTiA9's. The RTi10 is the A9's predecessor

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/166579/free-polk-rti10-crossover-essentially-brand-new-polk-sent-wrong-one-via-a7-warranty-replacement

    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • alecd70
    alecd70 Posts: 13
    Thank you all for the replies! When I pulled out the crossover earlier for the other pictures I removed some "stuff" from contacts common to the terminals. It now works! Blows my mind that that was all it needed.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,646
    "stuff" from contacts common to the terminals.

    Huh?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • alecd70
    alecd70 Posts: 13
    There was some sort of residue/buildup on these perfectly circled areas.q72dziasj8vg.jpg
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,646
    Interesting!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • alecd70
    alecd70 Posts: 13
    Very! Don't know what exactly it was, but it did flake off.
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,387
    edited June 2021
    So it must have been conductive and causing a short. I wonder where that crap came from?

    Could you have moved something that was not making good contact before (back to the bad solder joint idea)?
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601