Require mountain biker help

Willow
Willow Posts: 11,044
in The Clubhouse
So I was trying to remove the older rotor using my t25. For some reason most of the heads were stripped. Tried using a bolt remover. Helped with one. Anyway I mangled the piece up and need a new one. What is it called?
uywe1k3rr985.jpg
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  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,044
    I've never removed one I am assuming I removed the skewer, then the nut. Does it screw off ? Where can I buy another?
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  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,134
    edited December 2020
    Oh man. From the photo, it looks like the brake rotor flange on the hub is damaged. I've never worked a wheelset where those are removable or replaceable. The fix for that would be a new hub, and in most cases, probably just better off getting a new wheel.

    No, removing the skewer and that lock nut you see there will not get you access to remove the brake flange.

    That nut just holds the cone nut in place, and the cone nuts control the compression on the bearing on each side of this wheel, which are beneath that dust cap. That line you're seeing is the edge of the dust cap sealing into the hub body.

    I've found that the trick to bolt or screw extractors is to start with a small bit first to get a small hole drilled, maybe 10% of the diameter, and drill it all the way through if possible. Then follow up with slightly larger bits as needed until you can get an extractor in there. Same thing, drill all the way through the stub. Have to be gentle with extractors, though, because they can snap, and then that becomes a machine shop trip.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,502
    Probably that part is a left hand threaded attachment to the hub. Even if it is I have no clue if it is available separately from the hubs and I've never worked on my mountain bike (a Scott) hubs. Just a long shot but do replacement rotors come with that part by any chance? Good luck and sorry it wasn't much help. May have to replace the hub or the entire wheel as msg said but I'd check a new rotor to see if it comes with it.
    George / NJ

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  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,044
    I bought some new rotors got the front done but the rear is a pain in mine
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,502
    edited December 2020
    Perhaps you could contact the mfg. of a rotor that is the same as your existing rear rotor and ask them about the availability of the part that goes between the rotor and the hub.

    If they say they only come with the hubs/wheel assemblies perhaps you wouldn't have anything to lose by trying to unscrew it from your existing hub and take it to a machine shop to repair the holes with the broken bolts/extractors.
    George / NJ

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  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,044
    Just received confirmation from a local bike mech and I need new wheels or hub. Might check out Aliexpress..don't want to spend tons as I'm most likely getting a new bike in the spring.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,502
    I was pretty sure that the hub manufacturers do not want those pieces coming apart. Maybe yours is threaded with some permanent locking compound. I don't know. I found one youtube video where a guy pulls his off with a puller (his wasn't threaded obviously) and gets the sheared bolts out from the other side

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBJ8HF_NY_c
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,134
    edited December 2020
    Willow wrote: »
    Just received confirmation from a local bike mech and I need new wheels or hub. Might check out Aliexpress..don't want to spend tons as I'm most likely getting a new bike in the spring.
    Can you get Amazon up there? I just did a quick search and you can probably find a bobo double-walled wheel for a bit under $100. If you don't have the tools, you'll need to factor in spending a bit at the local bike shop to have the cassette transferred and rotor installed, and get the derailleur adjusted. Presuming it's not the exact same hub.

    Make sure you buy a wheel compatible with your cassette; number of cogs. It looks like hubs are compatible with 8-10 cog cassettes these days, so this probably isn't a big deal anymore.

    Years and years ago I used to buy all my bike stuff from Supergo in California. They went under and sold off to Performance/Nashbar. They seem to be back now. There are probably lots of places you can find a decent rear wheel to get you through to Spring, maybe even your local market.
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  • gudnoyez
    gudnoyez Posts: 8,124
    https://www.nashbar.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA5vb-BRCRARIsAJBKc6IdLjTsenyBTWgiYBU9iXDOVAD8p3oyDbkwJq1JaXNLwvBvg9S6s6QaArIQEALw_wcB

    +1 on Nashbar I use to buy from them. they will definitely have what you need.
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  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,044
    edited December 2020
    Problem solved, my wife gifted me a 2020 Trance 2. :) , for Xmas
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  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,134
    edited December 2020
    Noice!
    Did she take your tools away, too?
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,572
    msg wrote: »
    Noice!
    Did she take your tools away, too?

    Of course not he's still putting it together one spoke at a time...
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  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,044
    Having a hard time with the welding of the spokes to the rim
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  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,134
    Gum or dried egg yolk works just fine. I'm confident you can test this on a downhill of the steepest, highest and rockiest terrain with a sharp turn just before a cliff drop.
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  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,134
    That's a B.A.R. btw.
    Look at that travel and fork rake.

    zduxzn0adtdr.png
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  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,044
    Can't say I'm familiar with that term
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  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,134
    I made it up on the fly to describe your new bike: Bad *** Ride.
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  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,044
    Thank you, I really wasn't sure. Some days I feel like I'm old and don't keep track of new sayings.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,502
    That is phat (?)! Whatever that means lol. I only have a hardtail Scott but I love it. Is this the new thing that they just use a single small chainring on the crankset and then lots of range on the rear cassette? How many speeds?

    If this was your strategy all along all I can say is well played sir and I hope the missus doesn't read the Polk Forums :D
    George / NJ

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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,502
    msg wrote: »
    I made it up on the fly to describe your new bike: Bad *** Ride.

    I agree, however (and I guess I'm getting old) but I'd have to change that seat or it'd be a S.A.R. (Sore **** Ride)!
    George / NJ

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  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,134
    edited December 2020
    I haven't looked at new bikes in several years, but was just looking for a part on JensonUSA the other night and saw that gearing setup on a Niner.

    I think the idea is that there's so much overlap with the 3x9 or 3x10, that they were able to go with the 1x12 for most stuff. I haven't done any reading on it, but I'm curious what kind of high gear coverage this offers, and how it feels.

    I rarely use my large front chainring, unless on the road, but it depends on the bike, components and wheel size. You know, wheels being a gear an' all. On one bike I do, but on the other, my cruise gearing is the middle chainring and a higher gear (smaller cog) on the rear. It's very similar to top chainring and lower gear (larger cog) on the rear, but feeling geared slightly too low.

    I'm just reminded of a story. One day I was driving to an appointment and must have been annoyed with traffic or something. Channeling my inner @daveho, and I saw a guy riding down the sidewalk geared funny. His legs were spinning a hundred miles an hour and he was hardly moving bouncing in the saddle, all suited up like for a race or something. I shouted out my back window, CHANGE GEARS!!! He laughed.
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  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,134
    edited December 2020
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    That is phat (?)! Whatever that means lol. I only have a hardtail Scott but I love it.
    Hardtail's a solid choice if you don't need to soak up roots, terrain and drops.

    I have an older full suspension Specialized FSR Expert, but sadly it's seen very little use the past several years, and I mostly ride one of two more modest older 29er hardtail bikes more regularly. They're all pretty soulful, but my favorite is the Gary Fisher x-cal 29er.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,502
    edited December 2020
    I do go over some roots with my hardtail Scott riding on the riverside berms near my house but that's mostly it and it has the 29" wheels which seems to help with that along with setting the front shock on the soft side, especially since I'm in recovery from a torn rotatator cuff on my right shoulder.

    Ha ha that guy must've been doing an outdoor version of "Spin Class" !
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
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    iDefender w/ iPower PS
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    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
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    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,134
    Nice. It's a little rooty around here, too, but I can usually ride around them. It's mostly just XC terrain.

    Hehe, yeah :)

    @willow - is your new bike classified XC or All Mountain? Looks like some pretty long front suspension travel.
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  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,044
    It's a trail bike/mini enduro. More on the side of AM with 150 in the front and 140 in the rear. My current HT is an cx/trail with 120mm in the front. oh and no rear wheel :p
    We bought it slightly used. Purchased in late April. He added 3m clear frame protection, race face stem and cap, raceface bars and lock on grips as well as some new Michelin endure/trail tires.
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  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,044
    msg wrote: »
    I haven't looked at new bikes in several years, but was just looking for a part on JensonUSA the other night and saw that gearing setup on a Niner.

    I think the idea is that there's so much overlap with the 3x9 or 3x10, that they were able to go with the 1x12 for most stuff. I haven't done any reading on it, but I'm curious what kind of high gear coverage this offers, and how it feels.

    I rarely use my large front chainring, unless on the road, but it depends on the bike, components and wheel size. You know, wheels being a gear an' all. On one bike I do, but on the other, my cruise gearing is the middle chainring and a higher gear (smaller cog) on the rear. It's very similar to top chainring and lower gear (larger cog) on the rear, but feeling geared slightly too low.

    I'm just reminded of a story. One day I was driving to an appointment and must have been annoyed with traffic or something. Channeling my inner @daveho, and I saw a guy riding down the sidewalk geared funny. His legs were spinning a hundred miles an hour and he was hardly moving bouncing in the saddle, all suited up like for a race or something. I shouted out my back window, CHANGE GEARS!!! He laughed.

    All our bikes are 1x. Cleans up the cockpit, lightens a bit. My son has a 1x8, my wife is a 1x9 (soon to be a 1x11) and my new one is a 1x12. On my HT I've never needed more than the 46 teeth in the rear with a 32 ring up front. It frees up the left side for the dropper post lever, another must on a mountain bike. The front ring is most usually a narrow-wide ring which really helps keep the chain on.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,502
    At first I thought dropper post lever was a cool way of saying remote operated kick stand (who can't admit they wish they had one sometimes?) :D So that's another thing I didn't know about, besides the 1 x trend in drivetrains. It's clear that I'm not a hardcore mountain biker (so far) lol.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,373
    I think my schwinn stingray in the mid 70's was the last bike I hadthat had a kick stand on it.
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  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,044
    No kickstands on our bikes
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  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,044
    So I replaced the fork on my wife's bike with the new one I had purchased in early fall. She now also has my new rotors which I had purchased in the late fall. She now has my SLX brakes in the front (rear to do soon) my sunrace 11-46 cassette. Still to swap : rear SLX brake caliper and lever, dropper post, 11sp chain and SLX rear mech. I am in no rush as winter just started and we won't be riding for 4-5 months. But it's a stress reliever working on them (except when I really mess up :#:/ . Live and learn. Then I work on my daughter's bike (convert it to 1x and give her a dropper post) she will be 8 in Jan :)
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