Oldest non-serviced amplifier that you still use daily

What's your oldest un-serviced power amplifier that you still use daily/weekly?

Mine is my 21 year old Klipsch Promedia v.2-400 system that I'm still using to drive a pair of Polk Audio Blackstone TL3 speakers daily.

It stays on 24/7 since it doesn't even have a power switch and it's still working as flawlessly as the day I first plugged it in 21 years ago. I keep expecting it to die and it just won't!
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Comments

  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 9,402
    edited December 2020
    Isn't the ProMedia a computer speaker setup?

    I don't know when it was released but I use and also keep on 24/7 my B&K Reference 4420

    I used to use my very old all original Yamaha CA-1010 but it did finally have a channel go out, I just have yet to pay someone to look at it.

    Does the original head unit in my 1995 Honda count? 😉. I use that more than anything really.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 9,546
    Yep, it's a computer speaker setup.

    Also I should mention that I did have to replace the preamp control pod a few years ago. But I'm mainly thinking about the power amp section inside the subwoofer.

    And yeah the Honda HU counts!
  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 9,402
    I remember when the ProMedias first came out, I was very big into PC gaming and they were THE PC speakers to own.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 9,546
    edited December 2020
    Oh yeah, absolutely. The later generations had some cost-cutting measures, but I think this original v.2-400 model with the dual sub drivers were the best.

    I used it primarily with the Klipsch satellites, but let me tell you the TL3s sound a hell of a lot better!
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,897
    An Emo 3 channel it ain't too old but it's the oldest amp that I still use.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 18,521
    Aragon 8008bb
    Tax time and I'm getting this one completely gone through and recapped. Still works fine but it's long in the tooth.
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 9,546
    Nice, Ivan.

    I was wondering if mine is starting to drift out of spec as well. I'm so accustomed to its amplification quality that it's hard to determine if upgrading would improve things.

    I suppose its possible that its starting to have issues but I haven't heard anything audible.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 18,521
    Well IME you will never know the gradual decline unless a pre-driver, transistor or cap goes bad. The usual suspects is a buzz, static or low output on one side.
    I plan on this being with me for a decade or longer so I'll spend the cash.
  • BlueBirdMusic
    BlueBirdMusic Registered User Posts: 1,474
    I really like the "notch" in the Aragon amps. Different!!
    If the telephone doesn't ring ......... it's me
    Harry / Marietta Georgia
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 3,012
    I have a Classe Model Twenty Five I picked up from TroyD years ago. Not sure exactly when it was produced and I can't bother to look because I know generally what the production years were, but I suspect it is around Twenty Five years old.

    It took a Parasound JC5 to displace it in my main rack. Still works great though.
    1. Polk LSiM-707, LSiM-704C, LSiM-702FX; Dual SVS SB2000 subwoofers; Marantz SR7011 receiver; Parasound A31 and A23 amps; Oppo 205; Sony 65" 4K TV; FIOS; PS Audio Power Plant Premier; MIT S2 cables
    2. JM Labs Electra 920.1; Parasound JC2 and JC5; Sony HAP-Z1ES; Marantz SA8004 SACD; Music Hall MMF7 and Acoustech phono pre; PS Audio P1000; MIT S1 Cables
    3. Polk LSiM703; Anthem Pre-2L SE; Parasound A21; Sony 48" 4K TV; Wyred4Sound DAC 2; Oppo 203; Squeezebox Touch; PS Audio Power Director 4.7; MIT S3 cables
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,146
    My musical fidelity a308 that has made the rounds here on club Polk was manufactured around 2001. Its normally in 24/7 though I do shut it off overnight when I think about it. I know @Ricardo kept it on 24/7. It is by far the best sounding integrated I’ve ever owned. It supplanted the Cambridge 851a which I really liked...I don’t see it going anywhere any time soon, so I hope the caps hold up cause I’m in a small market and have no soldering skills lol...
    Living Room 2.1: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Musical Fidelity A308; NAD M51 DAC; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 700 x3; Definitive Technology StudioMonitor 350; Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,584
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    My musical fidelity a308 that has made the rounds here on club Polk was manufactured around 2001. Its normally in 24/7 though I do shut it off overnight when I think about it. I know @Ricardo kept it on 24/7. It is by far the best sounding integrated I’ve ever owned. It supplanted the Cambridge 851a which I really liked...I don’t see it going anywhere any time soon, so I hope the caps hold up cause I’m in a small market and have no soldering skills lol...

    Glad you're enjoying the A308. Soldering is not difficult really. I'm sure you can do it with a little practice ;)

    _________________________________________________
    ***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***

    2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
    SOPA
    Thank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 18,521
    Soldering is the easy part, re-biasing and other stuff is where knowledge and scopes come into play...
  • 1971? Crown D150 :# Sounds great however it has recently developed an intermittent issue in the left channel where it becomes very low level slightly distorted sound. It's unmistakable when it happens. The simple cure is to pull the Right channel input and then disconnect and reconnect the Left. That always cures it instantly. Interestingly, unplugging the Left and re-plugging does not cure it unless the Right is first unplugged. Seems like a transistor issue but I really have no clue why it behaves this way.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, all std. mods (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 575
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Soldering is the easy part, re-biasing and other stuff is where knowledge and scopes come into play...

    I thought you could just put your hand on the heat sinks for 10 seconds, then your amp was biased correctly. Old nelson pass trick.
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,231
    Old B&k 4420........not sure the year but guessing close to 20 years old.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • DaveHo
    DaveHo Posts: 3,024
    I have an Adcom GFA-555 in the bedroom rig. I'm not the original owner, but I'm pretty sure it hasn't been serviced. I pull it every once and awhile to check the DC offset. Still within acceptable limits.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 18,521
    invalid wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Soldering is the easy part, re-biasing and other stuff is where knowledge and scopes come into play...

    I thought you could just put your hand on the heat sinks for 10 seconds, then your amp was biased correctly. Old nelson pass trick.

    I'll take Nelson's word if that is how he does it! That guy passes more knowledge in gas than I'll ever have upstairs!
  • tratliff
    tratliff Posts: 1,174
    My dad has a Denon POA-2200, also a Denon pre and integrated from the same era, that is still going strong. I am not sure of the exact age but it dates back to the early to mid 80's.
    2 Channel
    Legacy Focus SE, 2 REL Carbon Limited, McIntosh C50, McIntosh MC601's, VPI Prime w/SoundSmith Zephyr MIMC, Parasound Halo JC3, Denon DP-59l w/Ortofon 2m Bronze, Marantz SA-14s1, Oppo BDP-105, Furman Elite 15PFi, Douglas Connection (Furutech) Alpha Interconnects, Douglas Connection (Furutech) Alpha Speaker Cables, Pangea Power Cables

    Vintage
    Pioneer SA-9800, Pioneer TX-9800, Pioneer PL-630 w/Denon DL-301MKII, Technics RS-1500
  • Milito
    Milito Posts: 1,215
    tonyb wrote: »
    Old B&k 4420........not sure the year but guessing close to 20 years old.

    Same here.
    Yamaha RX-A2070, Music Hall A70.2 integrated amp, Benchmark Dac1, Bluesound NODE 2i, HSU VTF-2 MK5, LSiM705, LSiM704, Douglas Connection Alpha 12AWG OCC Speaker Cables, Douglas Connection Alpha Analog Interconnect Cables, Audioquest Interconnects and Digital Cables, Douglas Connection Alpha 11 OCC Custom Power Cable, Cullen Gold and Crossover Series Power Cables, Signal Power Cable, Furman PL-8C 15 Power Conditioner, Fluance RT85, Parasound Zphono USB Phono Preamp, Sony 65" 900F, Sony UBP-X700, Fios.
  • maxward
    maxward Posts: 848
    A mid-1980s Superphon DM-220 is still going strong. However, it was recapped because it seemed like a good idea 5 or 6 years ago.
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 14,402
    All my old speakers have been given away. Since I am now retired, the odds are my current stereo and HT speakers will be old in 20 years. :)
    Lumin X1 file player
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • decal
    decal Posts: 3,161
    Adcom GFA 535 since 1988, has never missed a beat.
    If you can't hear a difference, don't waste your money.
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 14,402
    BlueFox wrote: »
    All my old speakers have been given away. Since I am now retired, the odds are my current stereo and HT speakers will be old in 20 years. :)

    Oops. This also applies to the amps. Sorry. :)

    Lumin X1 file player
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 27,318
    The old ones here have all been serviced - even if only cleaning pots and switches, or changing tubes and/or electrolytic capacitors, setting bias points, etc.
    Now, those old ones are, in some cases, older than I (maybe even older than @F1nut! ;) ), but they have been maintained.

  • Gerres26
    Gerres26 Posts: 763
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    invalid wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Soldering is the easy part, re-biasing and other stuff is where knowledge and scopes come into play...

    I thought you could just put your hand on the heat sinks for 10 seconds, then your amp was biased correctly. Old nelson pass trick.

    I'll take Nelson's word if that is how he does it! That guy passes more knowledge in gas than I'll ever have upstairs!

    This is at least somewhat true...when I was re-biasing my X250 and looking for advice, Mr Pass actually chimed in and was definitely more worried about heat sink temp than actual voltage measurements across resistors...and yea he recommended the 10 second hand rule which was supposed to be about 50 degrees C if I remember correctly.
  • Gerres26
    Gerres26 Posts: 763
    And that Pass X250 is one amp I wish I would have kept, but curiosity got the best of me and I let it go :'(
  • gyosa
    gyosa Posts: 584
    edited December 2020
    I have a B&K EX-442 I bought new 1989 or so , with the toshiba outputs , 75 amps current vs 50 for the hitachi outputs ( Sonata version - before they called it a Sonata).
    Untouched other than a few new power switches over the years ( bought a bunch of spares ) and had the offset and bias adjusted a couple years ago ....
    Still running like a champ !

    Does that count ?

    Bk
    Parasound A21 , Yamaha wxc-50 , Polk SDA 1c’s ( my first love .. ) , Kimber Kable 4TC, Sony 42” - BEDROOM

    B&K EX-442 ( it will go in my casket when I die ... ) , PS Audio 4.6 preamp ( old school , but it still jams on ... ) , Yamaha wxc-50 , Boston Acoustic voyager 7’s - POOL

    PS Audio Stellar S300 , Cambridge Audio 851n , Yamaha wxc-50 , Kimber Kable 4vs , Salk Supercharged Song towers ( difficult choice between these and my family if I had to choose ... 😩 ) , Sony XBR-A8F 65” OLED , Onkyo TX-RZ610 - DEN , MAIN RIG

    Onkyo TX-nr609 , Polk atrium 7 , Boston acoustic sound ware (4) , Boston acoustic sub , B&W center , Sharp 65” TV - PATIO

    DAYENS AMPINO ( thanks Verb ! ) , KEiiD streamer ( this was only 60 bucks ?? ) , Polk atrium 8SDi’s - KID’s BEDROOM


  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 9,546
    gyosa wrote: »
    had the offset and bias adjusted a couple years ago ....

    Does that count ?

    Nope. But thanks for playing! :p
  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 12,444
    Emlyn wrote: »
    I have a Classe Model Twenty Five I picked up from TroyD years ago. Not sure exactly when it was produced and I can't bother to look because I know generally what the production years were, but I suspect it is around Twenty Five years old.

    It took a Parasound JC5 to displace it in my main rack. Still works great though.

    Holy crap. That was a minute ago!

    ( if you ever want to sell it back....that was a great amp!)

    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
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