Polk SDA SRS Arrived Today

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I've been looking for a pair of these monsters for quite some time now. Found these near Houston from the semi-original owner. His father purchased them new in the late 80s and used them until his death in 2009, then he got them. He mentioned that he and his brother helped bring them home when his father originally bought them.

They arrived in good shape. Minor cosmetic issues (especially given their 30+ years). All of the drivers are functioning...which is definitely a plus!

He had them advertised as SDA SRS, but they have 9 bolts on the crossover covers, binding posts configured like 1.2s, and pin-blade SDA connectors. Still the serial numbers only say SDA SRS. Serial numbers are 5747 (R) and 5299 (L).

These join SDA-1Cs (with RD-0194s) and SDA SRS 3.1TLs. The 3.1s have updated crossovers (Clarity caps/Duelund resistors), Speakon SDA connectors, H-nuts, and spikes. Anyway, both pairs will have to move on, since I finally have the Big Boys.

I've already ordered the RD-0198s since I'm absolutely not a fan of the SL-2000s. Which means I'll have to upgrade the crossovers...

I also have most of the pieces for a Dreadnaught...case, speakon connectors, and wire. Just need to order the transformer. I know the Avel Lindberg is the approved answer, but I've tried to ask Triad Magnetics about the VPT230-4350, which is 1000VA and available at Newark for $139 without a minimum order. Triad just don't seem interested in responding to my questions...

Sonus Faber Liuto / Coda Continuum / Anthem STR Preamplifier / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts

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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,041
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    Sounds like they may be 1.2

    I would make them 1.2tl
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • michaeljhsda2
    michaeljhsda2 Posts: 2,173
    edited November 2020
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    They're definitely 1.2's at the least because of the pin/blade socket. Remove one of the tweeters and if the negative wire quick connect is larger than the positive, it's an SL3000 tweeter and they're 1.2TL's. If they're the same size, they're SL2000's and can be converted to 1.2TL's with the appropriate modifications to the tweeter wire connection and the crossovers.

    Polk never manufactured a pin/blade 1st gen SDA SRS so there is no way they can be that.

    Post edited by michaeljhsda2 on
    SDA SRS 2.3TL's
    Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
    SDA 2B TL's
  • engie490
    engie490 Posts: 426
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    They're definitely 1.2's at the least because of the pin/blade socket. Remove one of the tweeters and if the negative wire quick connect is larger than the positive, it's an SL3000 tweeter and they're 1.2TL's. If they're the same size, they're SL2000's and can be converted to 1.2TL's with the appropriate modifications to the tweeter wire connection and the crossovers.

    Polk never manufactured a pin/blade 1st gen SDA SRS so there is no way they can be that.

    Thanks for the informative post, but ID of the tweeters turned out to be slightly simpler than that...

    rp9164aj5wvj.jpeg

    As mentioned above, RD-0198s are already on order!

    And the 6511s helped seal the deal on them being 1.2s...

    r8reoe4xeu0u.jpeg

    cp1r1bcjlla9.jpeg







    Sonus Faber Liuto / Coda Continuum / Anthem STR Preamplifier / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts
  • gyosa
    gyosa Posts: 699
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    Nice !

    Bk
    Dayens Ampino , Yamaha wxc-50 , Polk SDA 1c’s ( my first love .. ) , Kimber Kable 4TC, Sony 42” - BEDROOM

    B&K EX-442 ( it will go in my casket when I die ... ) , PS Audio 4.6 preamp ( old school , but it still jams on ... ) , Eversolo DMP-A6 , Boston Acoustic voyager 7’s - POOL

    Parasound A21, Eversolo DMP-A8 , Yamaha wxc-50 , Kimber Kable 4vs , Salk Supercharged Song towers ( difficult choice between these and my family if I had to choose ... 😩 ) , Sony XBR-A8F 65” OLED - DEN , MAIN RIG

    PS Audio S300 - sitting in the closet for now …

    Onkyo TX-nr609 , Polk atrium 7 , Boston acoustic sound ware (4) , Boston acoustic sub , B&W center , Sharp 65” TV - PATIO
  • theebisonman
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    Great looking pair!
  • michaeljhsda2
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    The SL2000's are pretty bad. Yeah, I initially missed the part about ordering the 198's and I tried to edit my post but the changes didn't go through and I was half asleep typing the post. LOL Not sure if you're aware about changing the polarity of each tweeter at the molex connection if you didn't already know that... congrats on the nice speakers!
    SDA SRS 2.3TL's
    Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
    SDA 2B TL's
  • engie490
    engie490 Posts: 426
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    Not sure if you're aware about changing the polarity of each tweeter at the molex connection if you didn't already know that... congrats on the nice speakers!

    Didn't know that...Thanks!!!!

    So, I was poking around the crossover and noticed that the stock power resistors (the ones I can see) are only rated for 5 watts. I've seen recommendations for replacing them with Mills 12 watt resistors.

    Does anyone know if the change in wattage rating is needed for safe operation (seems unlikely since the stock resistors lasted 32ish years) or because folks want to use the Mills and can only find the necessary values in that rating?

    Sonus Faber Liuto / Coda Continuum / Anthem STR Preamplifier / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts
  • Gardenstater
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    I can answer that one. There are two main types of noise that are relevant in an audio resistor, Thermal Noise and Current Noise. Current Noise is a function of the material and type of resistor and Wirewound Resistors are already much lower noise than, say, Carbon Composite Resistors. Thermal Noise is a function of temperature and resistance, so choosing a higher power rating resistor will heat up less for a given current and should have less thermal noise. https://www.eetimes.com/selecting-resistors-for-preamp-amplifier-and-other-high-end-audio-applications/#
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,579
    edited November 2020
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    We recommend 10 or 12 watt for insurance and better heat dissipation.
    They can get rocket hot and the larger wattage value keeps that in check.
  • engie490
    engie490 Posts: 426
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    We recommend 10 or 12 watt for insurance and better heat dissipation.
    They can get rocket hot and the larger wattage value keeps that in check.

    Got it. I saw on the Gimpod site the use of 12-watt Mills resistors in every spot except one, but there are a lot more options available at 10 watts.
    Sonus Faber Liuto / Coda Continuum / Anthem STR Preamplifier / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,579
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    Sonic craft will have everything you need.
  • engie490
    engie490 Posts: 426
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Sonic craft will have everything you need.

    I see that...I'm just not sure about spending $400 on the capacitors alone...
    Sonus Faber Liuto / Coda Continuum / Anthem STR Preamplifier / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,278
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    engie490 wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Sonic craft will have everything you need.

    I see that...I'm just not sure about spending $400 on the capacitors alone...

    You won't regret spending the $400 on the 1.2's they will sound so much better.
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,278
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    I spent $600 on rebuilding the crossovers in my 2a's and I don't regret it one bit.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,579
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    Well get the resistors there and think about other caps you'd like. Hit up @westmassguy for gimpod boards make life easier.
    Other brands of caps may be cheaper at first look but when you can't find the exact value or have to get two lesser values to make one value that right there may get back to the almost $400 if not close to it.

    In my opinion I wouldn't even think about Bennic or Dayton for those.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,186
    edited November 2020
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    You could save $80 by going with the ClarityCap CSA's for the 4 12uf you need. Sonicap doesn't seem to be available in a 40uF, so you may have to use a 18 and 22 ClarityCap CSA to get that value, which will be about $38 per speaker, not too bad. The other ones you may have to use Sonicaps and suck it up :)

    PS: You might do alright using these ClarityCap SA's for the 20uF, for only $20 ea.

    https://www.partsconnexion.com/CLARITY-75935.html

    or $25 here:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Claritycap-Clarity-Film-Capacitor-SA-20-uf-630v-Audio-Grade-Clarity-cap/333019005014?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=225074&meid=af1aa51672ea4250bac88e1faef30114&pid=100675&rk=1&rkt=15&mehot=none&sd=333019005014&itm=333019005014&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci:33239b9e-2233-11eb-a591-aae0125c75de|parentrq:aad4fb431750aade035d60dcffeb5f78|iid:1
    Post edited by Gardenstater on
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,802
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    engie490 wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Sonic craft will have everything you need.

    I see that...I'm just not sure about spending $400 on the capacitors alone...

    In that case, sell the speakers to someone that knows what a decent crossover upgrade does.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • engie490
    engie490 Posts: 426
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Well get the resistors there and think about other caps you'd like. Hit up @westmassguy for gimpod boards make life easier.
    Other brands of caps may be cheaper at first look but when you can't find the exact value or have to get two lesser values to make one value that right there may get back to the almost $400 if not close to it.

    In my opinion I wouldn't even think about Bennic or Dayton for those.

    It's not that I won't spend money on my stereo, I just don't like flushing it down the toilet without tangible benefit. Unfortunately, I'm not going to have a chance to directly listen to the differences between the caps and resistors to make an informed choice.

    I have a pair of 3.1TLs that came to me with Clarity CMR caps and I find the sound a bit dry for my tastes. I don't know if that's endemic to the 3.1s or the caps. I'm hoping that they will sound better when I replace the SDA inductor and get a little more bass out of them.

    Anyway, back to the 1.2s...which cost $1300 so far (price plus shipping).

    I've already spent $480 on the RD-0198s. Hopefully, I'll get a few shekels back by selling the Sl2000s.

    I'm definitely leaning towards the Gimpod boards...that's $100.

    Has anyone compared Mills vs Dayton/Jantzen/Mundorf MOX 10W resistors (the green ones)? I can get the correct values (serial for 11.5 and 22.5 ohms), including replacing the polyswitch, for $28. Or I can spend $108 on Mills...

    For the caps, I priced out Jantzen Crosscap ($60 total), Solen ($56), and Clarity CSA ($180 total). They come in mostly correct values. I would get two 6.8uf to approximate the 13.5uf for Jantzen or Clarity or a single 13uf for Solen. Or Sonicap for $400...

    So, in my view, the Jantzen and Solen are the equivalent of Dayton...but at least I'm not getting any electrolytics. And Clarity should be a step up (at 3 times the price). And Sonicaps should be sonic nirvana (at over 8 times the price).

    One quick capacitance question: For the .25uf mylar, should I go with a .22 or .27 replacement?

    On a separate note, I did find Erse IXQ 16mh iron core inductors to replace the SDA inductors. Those were only $18 each. DCR is .591 ohms.

    In that vein, does anyone know what the stock DCR values are for L1-5?

    Thanks!!!!

    Sonus Faber Liuto / Coda Continuum / Anthem STR Preamplifier / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts
  • engie490
    engie490 Posts: 426
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    F1nut wrote: »
    engie490 wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Sonic craft will have everything you need.

    I see that...I'm just not sure about spending $400 on the capacitors alone...

    In that case, sell the speakers to someone that knows what a decent crossover upgrade does.

    ...to someone who knows...

    When I go to Baskin Robbins, which flavor do you want me to have? I know they make 31, but obviously they haven't asked you which is the correct one! ;-)
    Sonus Faber Liuto / Coda Continuum / Anthem STR Preamplifier / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,579
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    Solens can be very harsh.
    In the end they're your speakers. I definitely understand fiscal conservation at the present time a whole lot of uncertainty out there.

    Strange on the CMR's, they're well regarded I understand.

    I've never been disappointed with any of the speakers I've used Sonicaps on.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,041
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    Cmr are far from a dry sounding cap, i call them audio crack! Addictive sound

    I have all of the 1.2tl resistors sans the 15 ohm, 25 bucks to your door!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
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    engie490 wrote: »
    I have a pair of 3.1TLs that came to me with Clarity CMR caps and I find the sound a bit dry for my tastes. I don't know if that's endemic to the 3.1s or the caps. I'm hoping that they will sound better when I replace the SDA inductor and get a little more bass out of them.
    I never recommend replacing the sub bass drive inductors on the 3.1s. There's only a single dimensional woofer. Any bass increase will be hardly noticeable.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • engie490
    engie490 Posts: 426
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    Thanks Westmassguy!
    Sonus Faber Liuto / Coda Continuum / Anthem STR Preamplifier / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts
  • Navy_Goat
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    engie490 wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Sonic craft will have everything you need.

    I see that...I'm just not sure about spending $400 on the capacitors alone...

    I was in the same boat with my 2B and 1C crossovers. I ordered everything from Sonic Craft except the 40uf (2X20uf) in the LF side. I picked up Clarity PX from MadiSound. Doing this saved $100 on each pair of speakers. I did use SoniCraft for all cap in the 2.3s that I did more recently. They all sound pretty damn good to me.

    20uf Clarity PX
    SDA SRS 2.3tl, SDA 1C, SDA 2B (TL mod), Reserve 200
  • warren
    warren Posts: 756
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    I miss my 2.3’s.
    Some final words,
    "If you keep banging your head against the wall,
    you're going to have headaches."
    Warren
  • engie490
    engie490 Posts: 426
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    warren wrote: »
    I miss my 2.3’s.

    How so? Why did you sell them? Were they upgraded?
    Sonus Faber Liuto / Coda Continuum / Anthem STR Preamplifier / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts
  • warren
    warren Posts: 756
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    engie490 wrote: »
    warren wrote: »
    I miss my 2.3’s.

    How so? Why did you sell them? Were they upgraded?
    No, they just passed away.. I gave them away and bought the slim 705’s I like them.
    Some final words,
    "If you keep banging your head against the wall,
    you're going to have headaches."
    Warren
  • engie490
    engie490 Posts: 426
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    Not sure if you're aware about changing the polarity of each tweeter at the molex connection if you didn't already know that...

    I was thinking that since I have to pull the connections off of the SL2000s, why don't I swap polarity at the tweeter and leave the molex alone?

    Yes, I'm still not done with this project yet. But, I have almost all of the parts. I went with Gimpod boards, Clarity CSAs, the Mundorf MOX resistors, and ERSE Super Q coils to replace the SDA inductor.
    Sonus Faber Liuto / Coda Continuum / Anthem STR Preamplifier / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts