Looking at these SDA SRS. Question

ratpin

The diagram shows red on right, but the speakers themselves obviously have the red terminals on left. Owner says they purchased them new in 1989 and thats how they were. Is this a common occurance and is there anything else about that to take into consideration before I buy these?

michaeljhsda2

The speakers are SRS 1.2's (and can be converted to TL's with the appropriate modifications) because of the pin/blade interconnect socket (Polk never manufactured an original SRS with a pin/blade IC socket). The sticker above is actually the wrong label, it's for the original SRS which as you can see has a blade/blade socket. Polk was notorious for using leftover parts, etc on newer models. The binding post nuts are in the correct position even though the sticker above says otherwise.

ratpin

Im gonna make the 8 hour trip next week👍🏻

ratpin

michaeljhsda2 wrote: »

The speakers are SRS 1.2's (and can be converted to TL's with the appropriate modifications) because of the pin/blade interconnect socket (Polk never manufactured an original SRS with a pin/blade IC socket). The sticker above is actually the wrong label, it's for the original SRS which as you can see has a blade/blade socket. Polk was notorious for using leftover parts, etc on newer models. The binding post nuts are in the correct position even though the sticker above says otherwise.

Can you give a quick rundown on the tl conversion and benefits of it? I probably wont tear into these right away, but I like to learn and get an understanding for when that time comes.

Gerres26

Looks like they have a couple cosmetic issues, what’s he asking for them?

ratpin

Gerres26 wrote: »

Looks like they have a couple cosmetic issues, what’s he asking for them?

$1500

Other then the x-overs being faded they look near mint. I have a bunch of detailed pictures.

BTW, is there an easy fix for the faded x-overs? Kinda looks like they are just oxidized.

F1nut

The anodizing has failed, no fix other than having them redone, which would ruin the silkscreening. You should leave the grills on anyway.

ratpin

F1nut wrote: »

The anodizing has failed, no fix other than having them redone, which would ruin the silkscreening. You should leave the grills on anyway.

Bummer. This seems fairly common browsing pictures. Seems like the early ones held up better.

ratpin

Maybe I’ll plasti-dip em😉😜

pitdogg2

ratpin wrote: »

michaeljhsda2 wrote: »

The speakers are SRS 1.2's (and can be converted to TL's with the appropriate modifications) because of the pin/blade interconnect socket (Polk never manufactured an original SRS with a pin/blade IC socket). The sticker above is actually the wrong label, it's for the original SRS which as you can see has a blade/blade socket. Polk was notorious for using leftover parts, etc on newer models. The binding post nuts are in the correct position even though the sticker above says otherwise.

Can you give a quick rundown on the tl conversion and benefits of it? I probably wont tear into these right away, but I like to learn and get an understanding for when that time comes.

The tl series of speakers came with different tweeters. The sl2000 tweeter had a horrible peak at iirc 13khz. They can be very fatiguing. The tl series used polks newest tweeter sl3000 much better than sl2000. Polk went ahead again and did tons of R&D on better replacement tweeters for both the sl2000 and sl3000. The newest replacement for the sl2000 is the RD-0194. The replacement for the sl3000 is the RD-0198 both worth every penny to buy.
To elevate those to tl is a couple of extra caps on the cross over. Once again iirc

michaeljhsda2

ratpin wrote: »

michaeljhsda2 wrote: »

The speakers are SRS 1.2's (and can be converted to TL's with the appropriate modifications) because of the pin/blade interconnect socket (Polk never manufactured an original SRS with a pin/blade IC socket). The sticker above is actually the wrong label, it's for the original SRS which as you can see has a blade/blade socket. Polk was notorious for using leftover parts, etc on newer models. The binding post nuts are in the correct position even though the sticker above says otherwise.

Can you give a quick rundown on the tl conversion and benefits of it? I probably wont tear into these right away, but I like to learn and get an understanding for when that time comes.

I highly recommend using the larger Gimpod crossover boards if you can. If not that's ok, things will just be crowded on there because of the larger caps.

Here's a list of the caps and resistors you'll need. http://www.gimpod.com/parts12tl.html

No need to replace the Mate-N-Lock connectors since they are already on the crossover board.
Replace the polyswitch with a 0.5 ohm 12 watt resistor. Here's some light reading on the subject LOL
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/128258/resistor-replacement-for-the-sda-srs-1-2tl-polyswitch

When it's time to install the RD-0198 tweeters you will need to replace the negative female quick connect with a larger size that will fit the post on the tweeter proper.
Moving down to the crossover board, the tweeter (Mate-N-Lock) connector will have 8 wires...remove the connector from the board and with a Molex wire removal tool, reverse the polarity of each tweeter(positive goes on negative, negative on positive) sounds crazy but true. Here's an example of the tool, not sure about the size you need.

https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Remover-Computer-Extractor-Sleeving/dp/B0094MIS9U

ratpin

I saw a thread awhile back that a member (larry?) was offering replacement crossover plate faces like the originals. Is he still around?

ratpin

Anybody know if hes still around? Or have some hi-rez scans of the silkscreening on the face plates?