how to remove a in ceiling speaker

jpae93jpae93 Posts: 1
Hello, I have two LC80i that are in ceiling that need to be removed. Does anyone know to do this? I have removed the 4 screws that go into the rotating cams, but its still stuck to the ceiling tight. I have tried a tip that was posted in this forum about reinstalling the screws and trying again to remove but that did not work either. Is this a permanently installed speaker? Please help.

Comments

  • VR3VR3 Posts: 23,914
    Good chance it has formed a bond with the paint, carefully put a blade between the ceiling and the speaker basket
    - Not Tom

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
  • KexKex Posts: 4,304
    Those rotating cams are not the best of systems. It could be that when the screws are rotating out (as you unscrew) the locking mechanism has not rotated out of its spot behind the plaster. The system works reasonably well for installing them, but getting them to release is another matter.

    I’m assuming that you have no access to an attic space, where you could physically rotate the locks yourself?
    Alea jacta est!
  • mak99mak99 Posts: 349
    I just had a similar issue when I replaced some 80 F/X RT's with 80 F/X-LS's. Try this:
    • reinsert the screws, maybe about halfway back into the screwholes.
    • lightly tap upwards on the screw, which should help jar loose the clamp from the gyp board (since the screw threads should now be fully engaged on the cam/clamp)
    • while you are unscrewing, see how much "play" is in the screw. As the cam moves upward along the track, the screw should only rotate back-and-forth a few degrees before you feel it hit the sides of the track.
    • when the screw/cam finally can rotate about 90 degrees back-and-forth , the cam should be in the top section of the track, where it can now "fold" back into the speaker housing and allowing the speaker assembly to be removed straight down from the ceiling.

    If I get a chance later today, I'll post up pictures of my RT's with the cam in various positions to better explain the above.

    On a related note, if you are installing brand new ceiling/wall speakers, I would completely tighten/untighten each screw/cam assembly before installation, as doing this will help "loosen things up" so that it's a bit easier to install.
    Main HT:
    JVC DLA-RS45
    135" Elite Screens fixed frame, 1.1 gain
    Marantz SR7007 (operating as pre-pro)
    Emotiva XPA-1 x2 (L+R), XPA-100 (C), UPA-7 (surrounds)
    Oppo BDP-103D/BDP-83
    Toshiba HD-XA2
    Panamax M5410 Pro x2
    Polk LSiM707s, LSiC706, 80 F/X-LS, 65-RT
    Seaton Sound/MCCA MFW "Turbo" (orig. AV123 MFW-15)
    Velodyne SMS-1
    I/Cs: MP 12ga/4-cond (fronts); MP 12ga (surrounds), MP HDMI (all sources), some BJC sprinkled thruout
    Harmony 1100 (Harmony Elite being programmed)
    Salamander Twin 30 C/B, soon to be Triple 40 C/B to consolidate all gear

    * still need to sell older but mint gear!!
  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 5,324
    edited July 9
    I'll get it for you. :)

    ai7qws8h1o16.gif
Sign In or Register to comment.

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!