Monster power supply

Options
Sound_Recluse
Sound_Recluse Posts: 74
edited April 2020 in Electronics
I have had this power supply for a while now. It's an hts3500. I have always had problems with the timed and switched plugs on the power supply. When I have something plugged into those slots the (whatever is plugged in) will turn off and on. Almost like it doesnt have enough power to supply the demand. But it doesnt blow a fuse. I decided to take it apart and I'm assuming these are safety capacitors and ohm check each one of them to see if they would check out. I'm not to sure what I'm looking for if they are bad so that's why I'm here
r86ly1wignbn.jpg
The ones with the x on the tops of them didnt ohm anything
hxrmcvcsl0b9.jpg
This is what all the others ohm

Comments

  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,057
    Options
    Man put all that back together exactly how it was. You don't wanna fool around with Power products if you don't know what your doing. I wouldn't.
    So I gotta get you issue straight. Your saying when the power is ON all the banks are powered up not in standby or 12v trigger mode, you plug something into a Switched outlet and it powers up then goes off then comes back on?
    Sir I have Installed and serviced hundreds of jobs with the HTS3500 and all the other over the decade Monster power supplies and never once seen any of them do exactly what your describing.
    How it's supposed to work is triggered. When you have let say a receiver or preamp with a 12v trigger output, you connect a mono 1/8 cable between your 12v output to the 12v input on the HTS3500. You turn off your receiver or pre and the switched outlets go off. When you turn ON your receiver or pre those outlet get Triggered ON.
    My man I think you have a trigger issue not a Safety Capacitor issue. On the back of your HTS3500 there should be a switch to switch from MANUAL or REMOTE. I bet this toggle switch might be bad. Also there is a high current outlet designed Trigger ability which is a round round 2 pole IEC C7 Connector. You find this style on some removable power cords on lower end Blu Ray players or DSS receivers with 2 poles.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,057
    Options
    Also Have a few Power centers for sale if you can't get it working correctly without spending repair costs.
    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/190518/need-power-come-on-in#latest
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,585
    Options
    Sounds like it took a hit and did its job. Sacrifice that thing to the in-ground component gods.
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,057
    Options
    Usually when they get hit the MOV's are busted and the unit doesn't work anymore.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • Sound_Recluse
    Sound_Recluse Posts: 74
    edited April 2020
    Options
    Yes when I plug my AVR into the switched slot (marker high current amp) and turn on the avr it will turn on and the power supply will make a clicking sound (sounds like a relay opening and closing) and the avr will turn off. Then back on then off again. It will keep doing this until I turn of the AVR. It's all happening within seconds of it being on and off. Everything on the unswitched side works and I dont have any problems. Just the switched and timed that do it
  • delkal
    delkal Posts: 764
    Options
    I have a Monster conditioner that was part of a package deal. When I got it home the switched side would not come on when you hit the reset button. I took off the cover and unplugged /plugged every detachable wire connection. Works fine now.

    I know it is not the same symptoms but put it all together and see if it is "fixed". If not it probably toast and needs a major repair.
  • Sound_Recluse
    Options
    delkal wrote: »
    I have a Monster conditioner that was part of a package deal. When I got it home the switched side would not come on when you hit the reset button. I took off the cover and unplugged /plugged every detachable wire connection. Works fine now.

    I know it is not the same symptoms but put it all together and see if it is "fixed". If not it probably toast and needs a major repair.

    Did as you said. I was going to put it back together and make a video of what it was doing. When I was putting it back together I noticed on the top of the inside of the cover there was a little black mark like a wire had shorted to the chassis. I looked at the wire in question and there were no bare spots in the insulation but it did seem like it was starting too. I rerouted the wire so it wasnt touching the top cover. Plugged it up and it's all good now.. no problems. Glad I didnt throw it away.
    yhmjz8mwdxkt.jpg