I've tracked down a local set of SDS SRS... cover me, I'm going in!

I posted up a thread a couple months back about trying to decide between the 1C, the 2, and the SRS2. While I was trying to make up my mind along comes a pair of original SRS towers. Everything looks good so I'm going to audition them pronto.

The owner has no problem with me pulling stuff and looking in the cabinets, he's the 2nd owner from new, and very proud of these things. From the pics he sent, these look like time capsules. Aside from being the pin/pin interface that many of you said "don't do it bcuz tech reasons", is there anything I should be looking at?
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Comments

  • PolarPolar Posts: 66
    Sorry, before F1 jumps in and corrects me, I meant "blade/blade" not "pin/pin".
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,826
    The SDA SRS using the blade/blade type cable and socket. There is no pin/pin type.
    "don't do it bcuz tech reasons"

    Don't do what?

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,826
    LOL.....too late, I was typing as you posted.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • verbverb Posts: 10,203
    I have a set of 1st gen SRS’s and am very happy! I swapped out the tweeters, easy upgrade.

    The only issue for me is that you can’t run monoblocks with them. The A1 interface cable or Dreadnaught is incompatible. But, still a great set of speakers! Congrats!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS,Cary SLP-05 Pre,Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport,Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC,Cambridge 851N streamer,Marantz SA-14 SACD,McIntosh MC300 Amp,Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Pangea Power Cables,Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's,MIT Shotgun S3 IC's,MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC,EAR Acute CD Player,EAR 834L Pre,Northstar Designs Intenso DAC,PASS ACA Monoblocks,Denon UDR-F10 Cassette,Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers,SVS SB12 Plus sub,MIT AVt2 speaker cables,IFI Purifier2,AQ Cinnamon USB cable,Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks,Tisbury Mini Passive Pre,Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38),Analysis Plus Oval 9's,Zu Jumpers,AudioEngine B1 Streamer,Klipsch RB-61 v2,SVS PB1000 sub,Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated,Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer,Rotel RCD-1072 CD player,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers,Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • PolarPolar Posts: 66
    F1nut wrote: »
    Don't do what?


    In my intro thread that I referred to above, when we talked about the variations in the interface cable and how they could be used to indicate which was the more desirable, a couple of people said the pin/blade speakers were the way to go for various reasons. I summarized it as "don't do blade/blade bcuz reasons" - the reasons were already addressed in my other thread, so I didn't go into it any further.
    F1nut wrote: »
    LOL.....too late, I was typing as you posted.

    LOL I knew it :D
  • PolarPolar Posts: 66
    verb wrote: »
    I have a set of 1st gen SRS’s and am very happy! I swapped out the tweeters, easy upgrade.

    I'm pretty sure I'll be thrilled with these. I don't think the tweeters need to be dealt with yet. One of the few remaining techs in our state that is still familiar with the SRS went over these when he rebuilt the crossovers and he "pronounced them worthy". The seller has kept them in a climate controlled environment since he bought them from the original owner, who treated them like his own family since 1985. I've been going over the pics thoroughly in between studying pages out of Raife's SDA Handbook, and I honestly can't find a thing wrong with them, appearance-wise.

    I haven't heard a pair of these since 1986, and I was suitably impressed back then. As long as these perform at least as well as I remember, I'll be happy. But since they're physically perfect, anything wrong with the sound can be fixed, and the difficult part (the crossover) has been dealt with already.
    verb wrote: »
    The only issue for me is that you can’t run monoblocks with them. The A1 interface cable or Dreadnaught is incompatible. But, still a great set of speakers! Congrats!

    Now that's good to know, because I was just about to go source an AI-1 kit. I heard you can't mono bridge without that either so if that won't work I need to up my 2 channel game. I have a stack of amplifiers to choose from with plenty of available power, into 4 ohms stable. I just have to go over some of them with a DMM and make sure they're common ground. I'm thinking my Sumo Andromeda v1 will be the right amp for the SRS if that little detail checks out.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,826
    Polar wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Don't do what?


    In my intro thread that I referred to above, when we talked about the variations in the interface cable and how they could be used to indicate which was the more desirable, a couple of people said the pin/blade speakers were the way to go for various reasons. I summarized it as "don't do blade/blade bcuz reasons" - the reasons were already addressed in my other thread, so I didn't go into it any further.
    F1nut wrote: »
    LOL.....too late, I was typing as you posted.

    LOL I knew it :D

    Ah yes, as noted the blade/blade versions cannot be used with non-common ground, mono block or dual mono amplifiers. Other reasons to prefer the pin/blade versions are better built cabinets and the ability to use the RD0198 tweeters.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • xschopxschop Posts: 1,509
    Polar wrote: »
    I don't think the tweeters need to be dealt with yet. One of the few remaining techs in our state that is still familiar with the SRS went over these when he rebuilt the crossovers and he "pronounced them worthy".

    Just because they still work does not mean they shouldn't be replaced. Those tweeters are as bad as having a Covette with a rod knock and still driving it because a deaf mechanic says it checks out fine.

    That's about the most universally relatable analogy I've heard.... funny too.
  • verbverb Posts: 10,203
    Polar wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    I have a set of 1st gen SRS’s and am very happy! I swapped out the tweeters, easy upgrade.

    I'm pretty sure I'll be thrilled with these. I don't think the tweeters need to be dealt with yet. One of the few remaining techs in our state that is still familiar with the SRS went over these when he rebuilt the crossovers and he "pronounced them worthy". The seller has kept them in a climate controlled environment since he bought them from the original owner, who treated them like his own family since 1985. I've been going over the pics thoroughly in between studying pages out of Raife's SDA Handbook, and I honestly can't find a thing wrong with them, appearance-wise.

    I haven't heard a pair of these since 1986, and I was suitably impressed back then. As long as these perform at least as well as I remember, I'll be happy. But since they're physically perfect, anything wrong with the sound can be fixed, and the difficult part (the crossover) has been dealt with already.
    verb wrote: »
    The only issue for me is that you can’t run monoblocks with them. The A1 interface cable or Dreadnaught is incompatible. But, still a great set of speakers! Congrats!

    Now that's good to know, because I was just about to go source an AI-1 kit. I heard you can't mono bridge without that either so if that won't work I need to up my 2 channel game. I have a stack of amplifiers to choose from with plenty of available power, into 4 ohms stable. I just have to go over some of them with a DMM and make sure they're common ground. I'm thinking my Sumo Andromeda v1 will be the right amp for the SRS if that little detail checks out.

    Everything about this hobby is incremental, IMO. Some steps are subtle, some are profound.

    Not absolutely critical, as 8 new tweeter is not cheap, but when I swapped mine out the improvement was profound.

    It's a journey too. Spend some time with them as is, and when you're ready, try the new tweeters. You will have then traveled the same path many of us have, myself doing so not too long ago! Always good to do an A/B comparison, so you can hear for yourself.

    Again, congrats, and enjoy! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS,Cary SLP-05 Pre,Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport,Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC,Cambridge 851N streamer,Marantz SA-14 SACD,McIntosh MC300 Amp,Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Pangea Power Cables,Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's,MIT Shotgun S3 IC's,MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC,EAR Acute CD Player,EAR 834L Pre,Northstar Designs Intenso DAC,PASS ACA Monoblocks,Denon UDR-F10 Cassette,Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers,SVS SB12 Plus sub,MIT AVt2 speaker cables,IFI Purifier2,AQ Cinnamon USB cable,Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks,Tisbury Mini Passive Pre,Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38),Analysis Plus Oval 9's,Zu Jumpers,AudioEngine B1 Streamer,Klipsch RB-61 v2,SVS PB1000 sub,Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated,Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer,Rotel RCD-1072 CD player,Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner,Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers,Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • PolarPolar Posts: 66
    Just because they still work does not mean they shouldn't be replaced. Those tweeters are as bad as having a Covette with a rod knock and still driving it because a deaf mechanic says it checks out fine.

    Even if the tweeters work, they're no good? Thats a new one for me.
  • PolarPolar Posts: 66
    xschop wrote: »

    Just because they still work does not mean they shouldn't be replaced. Those tweeters are as bad as having a Covette with a rod knock and still driving it because a deaf mechanic says it checks out fine.

    That's about the most universally relatable analogy I've heard.... funny too.

    Unfortunately it was uniquely ill-fitted for this discussion.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,826
    Polar wrote: »
    Just because they still work does not mean they shouldn't be replaced. Those tweeters are as bad as having a Covette with a rod knock and still driving it because a deaf mechanic says it checks out fine.

    Even if the tweeters work, they're no good? Thats a new one for me.

    They have a nasty 5dB spike around 13kHz. The RD0194 replacements are a vast improvement.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • PolarPolar Posts: 66
    F1nut wrote: »
    5dB spike around 13kHz. The RD0194 replacements are a vast improvement.

    I'll take a careful listen when I check them out. I might not have to do anything though- the guy went to the trouble of doing the crossovers in Sonicaps and AEON, perhaps he did the tweeters as well.
  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 22,797
    Polar wrote: »
    Just because they still work does not mean they shouldn't be replaced. Those tweeters are as bad as having a Covette with a rod knock and still driving it because a deaf mechanic says it checks out fine.

    Even if the tweeters work, they're no good? Thats a new one for me.

    In addition to what Jesse said, the diaphragms dry out. Bottom line is they just don’t age well, or sound very good to begin with.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Diamond v2 cartridge and Origin Conquerer Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Krell Evolution 505 SACD Player, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds.

    I swear by my life and my love of it that I will never live for the sake of another man, nor ask another man to live for mine.” .

    “If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
  • RandyCroissantRandyCroissant Posts: 445
    Pictures tell a thousand stories
    Yamaha RXA1030, Yamaha CD, Bluesound node 2i, Tidal
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    Polk m5jr
    Kimber 8TC
    Sony 55" Bravia
    Wish list SVS sub

  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 13,536
    Polar wrote: »
    Just because they still work does not mean they shouldn't be replaced. Those tweeters are as bad as having a Covette with a rod knock and still driving it because a deaf mechanic says it checks out fine.

    Even if the tweeters work, they're no good? Thats a new one for me.

    In addition to what Jesse said, the diaphragms dry out. Bottom line is they just don’t age well, or sound very good to begin with.

    That is a problem with all speakers. Being mechanical devices they wear out, and the components deteriorate. The problem is it so slow that owners don’t recognize the resulting sound deterioration.

    My speakers are four years old. If my hearing is still working then I will be upgrading them in four or five years.
    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin X1 file player
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    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • PolarPolar Posts: 66
    It just occurred to me: I'll be placing these on hardwood floors over concrete, and don't want the bottom cap to get scuffed up any worse than it might already be. Unless someone says otherwise I'm going to check with my interior shop and see about having some auto-style floor mats made to go under the speakers. Rubber underlayment, wool top, edged all the way around with rayon or something similar. The bases are 14 x 22, roughly, so maybe I'll make them an extra 2 inches deep and have "SDA SRS" embroidered into the lip. As if anyone who sees these things are going to bother looking at the floor, but its still a nice touch.
  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 22,797
    Spike them and use the disks that come with them to protect the wood.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Diamond v2 cartridge and Origin Conquerer Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Krell Evolution 505 SACD Player, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds.

    I swear by my life and my love of it that I will never live for the sake of another man, nor ask another man to live for mine.” .

    “If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
  • PolarPolar Posts: 66
    I've never been a fan of spikes for anything but turntables. Have you spiked you're cabinets? I'd be interested in knowing if there's a perceived change.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 16,774
    Polar wrote: »
    I've never been a fan of spikes for anything but turntables. Have you spiked you're cabinets? I'd be interested in knowing if there's a perceived change.

    When I had my 2.3tls on the factory glides they would "walk" so to speak. My speakers were on a very short nap carpet on a concrete basement floor. They did sink down into the small nap yet those drivers would move the speakers 1/4 to an inch one way or another. I spiked them and well they stay put and when I sit down they're exactly where i set them.
    I'm a firm believer in spiking.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,826
    Polar wrote: »
    It just occurred to me: I'll be placing these on hardwood floors over concrete, and don't want the bottom cap to get scuffed up any worse than it might already be. Unless someone says otherwise I'm going to check with my interior shop and see about having some auto-style floor mats made to go under the speakers. Rubber underlayment, wool top, edged all the way around with rayon or something similar. The bases are 14 x 22, roughly, so maybe I'll make them an extra 2 inches deep and have "SDA SRS" embroidered into the lip. As if anyone who sees these things are going to bother looking at the floor, but its still a nice touch.

    Very bad idea. Spikes with floor discs is what you want.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • aprazer402aprazer402 Posts: 1,947
    Spike 'em, You'll like 'em
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 2,390
    MMMMM Spikes!
    One foot on audio nirvana and the other in the poor house.
  • PolarPolar Posts: 66
    F1nut wrote: »
    Very bad idea. Spikes with floor discs is what I want you to get.

    FTFY. :D

    Why wouldn't a rubber mat with a short pile wool carpet on top be a good idea?
  • GardenstaterGardenstater Posts: 1,072
    You have a good situation in a way, having a concrete floor, even though it has the wood floor on top of it. I suppose the wood floor is the floating type? What's underneath it for underlayment?

    Everyone here is enamored with spikes because they solidly couple the speakers to the floor and pretty much eliminate movement of the speakers. This is only a partial solution though because, ultimately, if you want to go the whole 9 yards you have to get into vibration transmission suppression, from the speakers to each other, from the speakers to the equipment, and from the outside world to the equipment and the speakers.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub
    Crown D150 amp
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14 gauge, ultra low inductance
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  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,826
    Polar wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Very bad idea. Spikes with floor discs is what I want you to get.

    FTFY. :D

    Why wouldn't a rubber mat with a short pile wool carpet on top be a good idea?

    Because that will allow the speakers to float and move.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • PolarPolar Posts: 66
    You have a good situation in a way, having a concrete floor, even though it has the wood floor on top of it. I suppose the wood floor is the floating type? What's underneath it for underlayment?

    Its Armstrong engineered wood, so a 3mm veneer over plywood, not MDF. It would have been floating except I had it glued down to the concrete after a thick waterproof membrane was applied.
    Everyone here is enamored with spikes because they solidly couple the speakers to the floor and pretty much eliminate movement of the speakers. This is only a partial solution though because, ultimately, if you want to go the whole 9 yards you have to get into vibration transmission suppression, from the speakers to each other, from the speakers to the equipment, and from the outside world to the equipment and the speakers.

    Yep.
  • PolarPolar Posts: 66
    F1nut wrote: »
    Polar wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Very bad idea. Spikes with floor discs is what I want you to get.

    FTFY. :D

    Why wouldn't a rubber mat with a short pile wool carpet on top be a good idea?

    Because that will allow the speakers to float and move.

    In our 20x20 soundroom, the floor was concrete covered with a synthetic corded-pile utility carpet with a rubber backing. We had two dozen pair of speakers in that room, both on the floor and on shelves (which were also covered with the same carpet). Everything from the biggest JBLs to Canton to KEF to every single Monitor and SDA class Polk available at the time. We had multiple Canton subs and the first powered hifi-class sub that Sony offered. We even had some of those goofy Fostex omnidirectional speakers. Not one speaker moved, ever. The only thing that moved in the sound room were the two listening chairs.

    Also consider that most people with medium sized speakers on top of stands, like the multiple sets of B&W and KEF I have in my home, should be even more subject to floating/movement since its usually a flat, polished wood base sitting on either MDF/veneer or metal with a smooth surface coating. My speakers don't move at any volume level, unless someone bumps into them.

    These SRS are going to be sitting up against a wall. They also weigh over 180 lbs apiece, so I doubt there'll be a problem with movement. I wouldn't mind the little bit of slip that the mat would offer, because if I had to do any fine tuning of the speaker position that would make it much easier than trying to keep the tower balanced on four spikes while I move the floor discs.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,826
    edited March 9
    Since you have never tried spikes on floor standers it's all about coupling, so the speakers don't rock/move. That's not move as in from their position.

    Spiking results in tighter bass and cleaner mids. You should try it.

    However, speakers on stands should be decoupled from the plate. Some use Blu-tack while others use pads. The stands should be mass loaded and spiked.



    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

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