AMP Recommendations

I have a YAMAHA HTR-6180 which pumps out 105w/channel. I can use that to power my surrounds (Monitor 70 series II) and rears (Monitor 60 series II). I need to add an amp to power my fronts, RTI A7 and CSI A6. Looking at a 3x200 amp. Any recommendations?
Projector - Optoma CinemaX P1 | Screen - Elunevision 120" Reference 8k Ultra Short Throw NanoEdge
Media - HTPC: 120 TB Movies, Nvidia Shield | AVR - Yamaha HTR-6180 | Amp - Outlaw m2200 x 3
Front Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA9 | Center Spkr - Polk Audio CSiA6 | Surround Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA7
Rear Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA5 | Sub - HSU VTF-15H MK2 x 2
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Comments

  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 7,973
    edited December 2019
    Parasound usually pairs up well with the RTi series. The A31 is 3x250w.
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 6,442
    That parasound is probably close to the cost of all his speakers and receiver combined...A more budget friendly option is outlaw audio monos: https://www.outlawaudio.com/mofcart/cmny2019.html

    Even cheaper option is an outlaw 5000, use it to power everything but 2 speakers.
    Living Room 2.1: Dynaudio Contour 1.3mkii; Martin Logan Grotto sub; Cambridge Azur 851A; Cambridge Azur 851D; Bryston BPD-1
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Definitive Technology SM350; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology Procinema 800; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45; ACI Titan Subwoofer; Squeezebox Touch
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 7,973
    Yeah, I wasn't sure if buying new or used. Decent deal on the A31: https://www.ebay.com/itm/184076680553
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 6,442
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Yeah, I wasn't sure if buying new or used. Decent deal on the A31: https://www.ebay.com/itm/184076680553

    That is a great deal!
    Living Room 2.1: Dynaudio Contour 1.3mkii; Martin Logan Grotto sub; Cambridge Azur 851A; Cambridge Azur 851D; Bryston BPD-1
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Definitive Technology SM350; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology Procinema 800; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45; ACI Titan Subwoofer; Squeezebox Touch
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 7,973
    edited December 2019
    Yes, assuming the seller has the original box.

    Edit: He doesn't: "I no longer have the original box but will pack up extremely well for safe delivery."

    I've heard that line before. I think we all know how that can end..
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 25,411
    There are folks who know how to pack...
  • simoessimoes Posts: 33
    My wife would toss me onto the curb if I spent 1.5k on a used amp! She's been begging for a louis vuitton purse for 5 years and would utterly lose her ****. What about the Monolith 3X? It's priced around 1k.
    Projector - Optoma CinemaX P1 | Screen - Elunevision 120" Reference 8k Ultra Short Throw NanoEdge
    Media - HTPC: 120 TB Movies, Nvidia Shield | AVR - Yamaha HTR-6180 | Amp - Outlaw m2200 x 3
    Front Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA9 | Center Spkr - Polk Audio CSiA6 | Surround Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA7
    Rear Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA5 | Sub - HSU VTF-15H MK2 x 2
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 25,411
    I do wish I'd have taken "unboxing" photos of the preamp I recently bought. It was impressively packed. Overpacked, even -- and I pack for survival.

  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 6,442
    simoes wrote: »
    My wife would toss me onto the curb if I spent 1.5k on a used amp! She's been begging for a louis vuitton purse for 5 years and would utterly lose her ****. What about the Monolith 3X? It's priced around 1k.

    Three of the 200 WPC monoblocks from outlaw are $800 shipped, I would get those over the monoprice personally although I think they are both manufactured by ATI?!?

    Either way, you better buy your wife that purse with the savings if you know what’s good for ya...
    Living Room 2.1: Dynaudio Contour 1.3mkii; Martin Logan Grotto sub; Cambridge Azur 851A; Cambridge Azur 851D; Bryston BPD-1
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Definitive Technology SM350; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology Procinema 800; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45; ACI Titan Subwoofer; Squeezebox Touch
  • gudnoyezgudnoyez Posts: 7,399
    A31 gets my vote, mine runs my fronts with authority.
    Home Theater
    Parasound Halo A 31 OnkyoTX-NR838 Sony XBR55X850B 55" 4K RtiA9 Fronts CsiA6 Center RtiA3 Rears FxiA6 Side Surrounds Dual Psw 111's Oppo 105D Signal Ultra Speaker Cables & IC's Signal Magic Power Cable Technics SL Q300 Panamax MR4300 Audioquest Chocolate HDMI Cables Audioquest Forest USB Cable

    2 Channel
    Adcom 555II Vincent SA-T1 Marantz SA 15S2 Denon DR-M11 Clearaudio Bluemotion SDA 2.3tl's (Z) edition MIT Terminator II Speaker Cables & IC's Adcom 545II Adcom Gtp-450 Marantz CD5004 Technics M245X SDA 2B's, SDA CRS+

    Stuff for the Head
    JD LABS C5 Headphone Amplifier, Sennheiser HD 598, Polk Audio Buckle, Polk Audio Hinge, Velodyne vPulse, Bose IE2, Sennheiser CX 200 Street II, Sennheiser MX 365

    Shower & Off the beaten path Rigs
    Polk Audio Boom Swimmer, Polk Audio Urchin B)
  • simoessimoes Posts: 33
    Just pulled the trigger (without wife's knowledge of course) on three monoblocks. I think its great bang for your buck!
    Projector - Optoma CinemaX P1 | Screen - Elunevision 120" Reference 8k Ultra Short Throw NanoEdge
    Media - HTPC: 120 TB Movies, Nvidia Shield | AVR - Yamaha HTR-6180 | Amp - Outlaw m2200 x 3
    Front Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA9 | Center Spkr - Polk Audio CSiA6 | Surround Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA7
    Rear Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA5 | Sub - HSU VTF-15H MK2 x 2
  • simoessimoes Posts: 33
    edited December 2019
    Hey Rooftop, in a different thread, you recommended adding the VTF-15H MK2 Subwoofer. The thing is a beast so I was wondering if it would create a problem sitting next to the Optoma P1 ultra short throw projector. The projector will be sitting on a cabinet about 20 inches from the wall. I haven't experienced a sub of that size so do you think it will vibrate the **** out of the projector/stand and 120" projector screen mounted on the wall?
    Projector - Optoma CinemaX P1 | Screen - Elunevision 120" Reference 8k Ultra Short Throw NanoEdge
    Media - HTPC: 120 TB Movies, Nvidia Shield | AVR - Yamaha HTR-6180 | Amp - Outlaw m2200 x 3
    Front Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA9 | Center Spkr - Polk Audio CSiA6 | Surround Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA7
    Rear Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA5 | Sub - HSU VTF-15H MK2 x 2
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 6,442
    simoes wrote: »
    Hey Rooftop, in a different thread, you recommended adding the VTF-15H MK2 Subwoofer. The thing is a beast so I was wondering if it would create a problem sitting next to the Optoma P1 ultra short throw projector. The projector will be sitting on a cabinet about 20 inches from the wall. I haven't experienced a sub of that size so do you think it will vibrate the **** out of the projector/stand and 120" projector screen mounted on the wall?

    I have the smaller but still potent HSU VTF 2.5. It doesn’t vibrate anything but @mrloren has a bigger one maybe he can chime in?!?
    Living Room 2.1: Dynaudio Contour 1.3mkii; Martin Logan Grotto sub; Cambridge Azur 851A; Cambridge Azur 851D; Bryston BPD-1
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Definitive Technology SM350; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology Procinema 800; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45; ACI Titan Subwoofer; Squeezebox Touch
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 2,291
    edited December 2019
    simoes wrote: »
    Hey Rooftop, in a different thread, you recommended adding the VTF-15H MK2 Subwoofer. The thing is a beast so I was wondering if it would create a problem sitting next to the Optoma P1 ultra short throw projector. The projector will be sitting on a cabinet about 20 inches from the wall. I haven't experienced a sub of that size so do you think it will vibrate the **** out of the projector/stand and 120" projector screen mounted on the wall?

    I have the VTF3-MK5 yes it can shake and rumble or be a tame roar. Great sub for the price. I have most of the small mantel stuff glued down as it was falling off. It does put out bass you can feel

    As for putting it close to the projector, you might be ok. I'd call HSU they won't try to upsell you

    My TV is about 5' away from the sub. The TV doesn't shake or vibrate at all.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • simoessimoes Posts: 33
    Can the CSi A6 handle the 200 WPC monoblock? I ask that because Outlaw under rates the WPC.

    I think I'm going to go with the VTF3-MK5 over the VTF-15H MK2. They have very similar specs/performance, but the VTF3-MK5 is a bit cheaper (better value I think). Let me see what boxing day brings...
    Projector - Optoma CinemaX P1 | Screen - Elunevision 120" Reference 8k Ultra Short Throw NanoEdge
    Media - HTPC: 120 TB Movies, Nvidia Shield | AVR - Yamaha HTR-6180 | Amp - Outlaw m2200 x 3
    Front Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA9 | Center Spkr - Polk Audio CSiA6 | Surround Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA7
    Rear Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA5 | Sub - HSU VTF-15H MK2 x 2
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 13,300
    Basically any decent stereo speaker can handle any amplifier power. Only a few watts are necessary to achieve good sound. The additional power is used for musical peaks lasting for a millisecond or two.
    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin X1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 9,032
    Peaks? What peaks? Modern music rides that brick walled borderline.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 2,157
    Ya! Watts don't mean anything if it sounds like carp!
    One foot on audio nirvana and the other in the poor house.
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 2,291
    simoes wrote: »
    Can the CSi A6 handle the 200 WPC monoblock? I ask that because Outlaw under rates the WPC.

    I think I'm going to go with the VTF3-MK5 over the VTF-15H MK2. They have very similar specs/performance, but the VTF3-MK5 is a bit cheaper (better value I think). Let me see what boxing day brings...

    Yes the CSiA6 can take that Outlaw monoblock easy. I drove my old CSiA6 with an Emotiva XPA3G3 till I got the LSiM. The Emo is rated @ 275 watts.

    For the VTF3 over the 15H. They both use the same amp and driver, difference is the 15H is a lot bigger and will have a tad more low end. I like HSU subs but you might want to call SVS and see if any PB12-NSD are left. Two of those would be great.
    audioluvr wrote: »
    Ya! Watts don't mean anything if it sounds like carp!

    1000% agree there. I'd take a 20 Watt class A any day.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,429
    simoes wrote: »
    Can the CSi A6 handle the 200 WPC monoblock? I ask that because Outlaw under rates the WPC.
    When those Outlaw monos “hit their stride” you’ll be in pain, my friend! Besides quality WPC don't matter if you “keep it clean.” My A6‘s config has ~350 on tap - I sleep well😊. OTOH, if you watch a lot of action adventure flicks, you need the “juice.”

    A couple of side notes: have you considered some dedicated power to feed all those high-powered toys? I’d say at least 3 20As plus a power conditioner for the TV, blu-ray, and pre/pro/AVR. Finally, you haven’t mentioned how much space you tryin’ to fill.

    Merry Christmas! Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • simoessimoes Posts: 33
    edited December 2019
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    A couple of side notes: have you considered some dedicated power to feed all those high-powered toys? I’d say at least 3 20As plus a power conditioner for the TV, blu-ray, and pre/pro/AVR. Finally, you haven’t mentioned how much space you tryin’ to fill.

    Merry Christmas! Tony

    You guys sure can bankrupt a guy in seconds! I was going to use the 200WPC monoblocks to power the front three and my Yamaha AVR (105 WPC) to power the surrounds and rears. Was then going to throw in the VTF3-MK5 or VTF-15H MK2 (see after boxing day) to severely annoy the entire household with my action movies. All this will be hooked up to a Optoma P1 Cinemax UST projector (120" screen) and you're still suggesting that I need more?? :# I have a power bar with a fuse in it lol

    BTW - I don't use Blu-ray or UHD players - I have an extensive library of over 2000 Blu-ray/UHD Remux rips on my computer which I will network with the projector.

    The room is about 16x13 but open to the entire basement - not a typical room with 4 walls.
    Projector - Optoma CinemaX P1 | Screen - Elunevision 120" Reference 8k Ultra Short Throw NanoEdge
    Media - HTPC: 120 TB Movies, Nvidia Shield | AVR - Yamaha HTR-6180 | Amp - Outlaw m2200 x 3
    Front Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA9 | Center Spkr - Polk Audio CSiA6 | Surround Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA7
    Rear Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA5 | Sub - HSU VTF-15H MK2 x 2
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 2,291
    Hahaha they need a disclaimer on this site. "We will help spend all your money".

    The above is very true. I've seen post where the say they have a grand budget and wind up dropping $5k.

    Stick in your budget, The 3 monoblocks and VTF3 will do you just fine. Maybe add another VTF3 next year

    For AC power, it is nice to have separate circuits @ 20A, I run all my gear on a 15A as adding another circuit would cost too much. I've never tripped the breaker.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • simoessimoes Posts: 33
    edited December 2019
    Another question...

    I’ve always heard buy the biggest speaker you can afford. With that in mind, is it better to keep my A7s with the 200 WPC amp or would it be better to return them for the A9s. Would the same Amp provide them with enough power to take advantage of the bigger speaker?
    Projector - Optoma CinemaX P1 | Screen - Elunevision 120" Reference 8k Ultra Short Throw NanoEdge
    Media - HTPC: 120 TB Movies, Nvidia Shield | AVR - Yamaha HTR-6180 | Amp - Outlaw m2200 x 3
    Front Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA9 | Center Spkr - Polk Audio CSiA6 | Surround Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA7
    Rear Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA5 | Sub - HSU VTF-15H MK2 x 2
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 6,442
    simoes wrote: »
    Another question...

    I’ve always heard buy the biggest speaker you can afford. With that in mind, is it better to keep my A7s with the 200 WPC amp or would it be better to return them for the A9s. Would the same Amp provide them with enough power to take advantage of the bigger speaker?

    If this is mainly for HT I would use the extra money for the sub(s) and keep the A7s...
    Living Room 2.1: Dynaudio Contour 1.3mkii; Martin Logan Grotto sub; Cambridge Azur 851A; Cambridge Azur 851D; Bryston BPD-1
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Definitive Technology SM350; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology Procinema 800; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45; ACI Titan Subwoofer; Squeezebox Touch
  • rpf65rpf65 Posts: 2,127
    You were worried about the VTF 15 shaking your projector, and your thinking about A9’s for even more bass?
  • simoessimoes Posts: 33
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    If this is mainly for HT I would use the extra money for the sub(s) and keep the A7s...

    Only used for HT. Ok, I’ll keep the A7s. I appreciate everyone’s feedback and comments. It really speeds up the learning curve big time...

    I did a quick search for power conditioners and I can see there are a million different types ranging from $40 to thousands haha
    Projector - Optoma CinemaX P1 | Screen - Elunevision 120" Reference 8k Ultra Short Throw NanoEdge
    Media - HTPC: 120 TB Movies, Nvidia Shield | AVR - Yamaha HTR-6180 | Amp - Outlaw m2200 x 3
    Front Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA9 | Center Spkr - Polk Audio CSiA6 | Surround Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA7
    Rear Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA5 | Sub - HSU VTF-15H MK2 x 2
  • simoessimoes Posts: 33
    rpf65 wrote: »
    You were worried about the VTF 15 shaking your projector, and your thinking about A9’s for even more bass?

    I figured, if that huge monster didn't shake the projector, what's a couple of 7 inch drivers going to do lol
    Projector - Optoma CinemaX P1 | Screen - Elunevision 120" Reference 8k Ultra Short Throw NanoEdge
    Media - HTPC: 120 TB Movies, Nvidia Shield | AVR - Yamaha HTR-6180 | Amp - Outlaw m2200 x 3
    Front Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA9 | Center Spkr - Polk Audio CSiA6 | Surround Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA7
    Rear Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA5 | Sub - HSU VTF-15H MK2 x 2
  • simoessimoes Posts: 33
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    If this is mainly for HT I would use the extra money for the sub(s) and keep the A7s...

    Going back to the A7s vs the A9s lol I just checked and the price difference on boxing day is $120+tax between the two? Great deal on the A9s! Wouldn't it be worth while to get them? My only concern is the monoblock not being able to power them properly?!? If that's the case, I'm not going to invest more $$$ on amps...
    Projector - Optoma CinemaX P1 | Screen - Elunevision 120" Reference 8k Ultra Short Throw NanoEdge
    Media - HTPC: 120 TB Movies, Nvidia Shield | AVR - Yamaha HTR-6180 | Amp - Outlaw m2200 x 3
    Front Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA9 | Center Spkr - Polk Audio CSiA6 | Surround Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA7
    Rear Spkrs - Polk Audio RTiA5 | Sub - HSU VTF-15H MK2 x 2
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,429
    @simoes: your “space” is 16 X 13 but the “room” is much larger. Bigger speakers favor bigger spaces but bigger isn’t always better. Approximate distance to your LR?

    I have a lot more I could say but others have kinda said it so instead I’ll expand on Mrloren’s post (copied from something I posted earlier today): you’re on a journey, that more than a few of us started years ago*. Decide what defines your system as complete. Consider all info w/the end & your wallet in mind. If you assemble your system like you should eat - slowly, one bite at a time, your patience will reward you.
    *me, over 11 years ago and I’m still not finished but that’s for another day.

    Many of us didn’t get where we are overnight* and neither will you - took me well over a year before I finalized my LR having had my existing CC & surrounds as above So take ❤️ by stepping slowly. That will prevent the expensive frustration of regrettable decisions.

    Merry Christmas! Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: an Evidence at each corner
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
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