Help pick my home theater upgrade path! (Towers, subs, or what else)

LandmonsterLandmonster Posts: 45
edited June 14 in Speakers
Hi guys.

So my home theater as it stands, includes the following:
  • 2 Polk LSiM 703 bookshelf speakers
  • 1 Denon X4500h receiver
  • Xbox One X (media streamer, and 4k Bluray player)
  • Samsung JS8500 65" 4k TV


As such, I have no surround, no subwoofers, and no towers. :(

Planned audio additions:
  • 2 Polk LSiM 707 tower speakers -- ($1600-2000)
  • 1 Polk LSiM 706 center channel speaker -- ($500-600)
  • 2 powered 15" subs (Rythmik, HSU, JTR, etc.... not sure yet) -- ($2500+)
  • 1 power amplifier (either 2, 3, or 5 channels) -- ($1,000+)
  • 1 AVR cooler (Looking at the ACfinity S9) -- ($80)
  • ??? (could be room treatments, power conditioning, atmos speakers, etc... don't know yet... suggest something)


Since I cannot afford all of this at once... The question is.... what should my upgrade path look like?

I see a few real options here:

Option A: Get a center channel speaker, plus 2 subwoofers, for around ~$3,000. This will give me a complete front stage, lots of bass, and take a load off of the receiver (hopefully)... by crossing over all the bass to the subs. I don't know how much of a load off this is. I should probably add the AVR cooler in here if I do this.

Pros: Gives all the bass I will ever need in my theater up front, and gives a complete front stage.
Cons: Provides no surround sound at all, and the front sound stage may lack depth of without the towers. Receiver may still run hot powering 3 speakers, even if subs are handling the main bass.

Option B: Add 2 tower speakers, and a power amplifier, for around ~$3,000. This will give me a 4.0 surround sound system, and give me much more bass, since I'll be adding power amplification and tower speakers with large woofers. A center channel and subwoofers will not be absolutely necessary yet.... as I can run a phantom center, and allow the amplified Polk towers to make the bass.

Pros: Gives instant access to surround sound, takes huge load off of the receiver.
Cons: Lacks bass from subwoofers, lacks center channel

Option C: Suggest your own combo? I want to stay around $2,500 to $3,000 here for this phase, and use the components I have listed above.
«1

Comments

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,956
    Polk is closing out the LSiM series, so you better buy all your speakers now, which happen to be on sale right now
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 11,238
    Do the subs last. I never turn my sub on anymore.
    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin X1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 5,590
    Yep, wait on the subs: get the lsims now!
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Peachtree Audio NovaPre; B&K TX4430; Bryson BPD-1; Mains: Dynaudio Excite x18; Center - Polk cs400i; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5; LG UP870 4K BDP; NVidia ShieldTV
    ;
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45, NHT Super One CI surrounds, Martin Logan Dynamo (original), Squeezebox Touch
  • tophatjohnnytophatjohnny Posts: 2,408
    I never turn my subs on..I leave them on. They kick in when they need to. But yes grab them speakers when they are darn near giving them away. Subs can always be added down the line.
    "if it's not fun, it's not worth it & remember folks, "It's All About The Music"!!
    *****************************
  • cfrizzcfrizz Posts: 13,351
    Yup, speakers first since they are being closed out. Then an amplifier, then subs.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 ch. 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony Bravia KDL-40R510C TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Boston VR-920 Center Channel, SVS NSD-12 SB12 Subwoofer, Polk DSW 400 Subwoofer, Polk FXi-3 Surround Speakers
  • tonyp063tonyp063 Posts: 634
    ^^^^
    Listen to this wisdom @Landmonster
  • PSOVLSKPSOVLSK Posts: 4,020
    I'd go with a sub(s) and an amp.

    I don't think floorstanders and a sub will be much better than the 703's and a sub(s) (and this opinion is based on personal experience).

    My personal opinion is that subs make the most difference in an HT.

    Add a couple of SVS or HSU subs and an amp and you will be blown away.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 5,590
    I can also see @PSOVLSK’s logic. The 703s are great speakers, and the two most important speakers in an HT setup are the center and sub. If your room isn’t massive, a 704c with a couple nice subs would be awesome!!!
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Peachtree Audio NovaPre; B&K TX4430; Bryson BPD-1; Mains: Dynaudio Excite x18; Center - Polk cs400i; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5; LG UP870 4K BDP; NVidia ShieldTV
    ;
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45, NHT Super One CI surrounds, Martin Logan Dynamo (original), Squeezebox Touch
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 11,238
    IMO, that’s just stupid. Unless all you watch are moronic movies that are nothing but explosions. Anyway, you have been given various advices. Take your choice.
    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin X1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,196
    edited June 16
    Size of room would help. I'd recommend getting the speakers while they're cheap. 2 fronts and the best center you can afford. Move the current bookies to surround duty. If you can swing it spring for one sub now. You can always add a second later if need be. Then see how it sounds. If you want more from your system then look for a 3,5 or 7 channel amp.

    Depending on room dimensions you could possibly use the 705 and you're looking at $1400 for the pair. Add the center for $230 and you still have enough change to get a nice sub.

    Rome wasn't built in a day.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII Upgraded by Rich Brkich Pre
    Butler Audio TBD 2250 Amp
    PS Audio DirectStream DAC and MemoryPlayer Transport
    LSA-1 Statement
    SVS SB4000 & SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

    Backup Gear:
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 11,238
    Yes. Good advice. Sorry for being spun up earlier.
    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin X1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • PSOVLSKPSOVLSK Posts: 4,020
    I honestly think I could downgrade the speakers in my HT and still be very happy since I have an SVS Plus/2. As a matter of fact, I know I could because I've had lesser speakers (including the LSi703) in my HT.

    Floorstandes and a quality sub or two subs and keep the 703???? That's a tough one IMO.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,196
    PSOVLSK wrote: »
    I honestly think I could downgrade the speakers in my HT and still be very happy since I have an SVS Plus/2. As a matter of fact, I know I could because I've had lesser speakers (including the LSi703) in my HT.

    Floorstandes and a quality sub or two subs and keep the 703???? That's a tough one IMO.

    You say that until you end up with smaller drivers that distort or become excessively shrill.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII Upgraded by Rich Brkich Pre
    Butler Audio TBD 2250 Amp
    PS Audio DirectStream DAC and MemoryPlayer Transport
    LSA-1 Statement
    SVS SB4000 & SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

    Backup Gear:
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 1,914
    Hmm, hard choice. I'd go with a center and sub for a 3.1 then add floor standers.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk Signature S60
    Center: Polk CSi-A6
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Sony KDF-E42A10,
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    2 Polk RTi4 about 15' up the wall Advent Prodigy
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • PSOVLSKPSOVLSK Posts: 4,020
    kharp1 wrote: »
    PSOVLSK wrote: »
    I honestly think I could downgrade the speakers in my HT and still be very happy since I have an SVS Plus/2. As a matter of fact, I know I could because I've had lesser speakers (including the LSi703) in my HT.

    Floorstandes and a quality sub or two subs and keep the 703???? That's a tough one IMO.

    You say that until you end up with smaller drivers that distort or become excessively shrill.

    Guess I just don't listen loud enough because I never had that problem with LSi703 as the speakers in my HT.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,196
    I like lifelike reproduction. Neighbors hated me when I lived in an apartment.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII Upgraded by Rich Brkich Pre
    Butler Audio TBD 2250 Amp
    PS Audio DirectStream DAC and MemoryPlayer Transport
    LSA-1 Statement
    SVS SB4000 & SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

    Backup Gear:
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
  • shsshs Posts: 41
    I use a 703 for a center and 705s for the front left and right. They can definitely do the job when it comes to home theater with the help of subwoofers. If you get 705s or 707s for the left and right, you could use your 703s for surrounds, or use the 703 for L&R and get some 702 F/X for surrounds while they last.
    SONY VPL-VW385ES, Da-Lite 92" 0.9 HD progressive 16x9 screen, Apple TV 4K, Oppo UDP 203, Anthem AVM 60, D-Sonic 4000 (800x3, 400x4) for bed layer, 2 Crown XLS 1002 (225x4) for Atmos; Speakers: Polk LSiM 705s, 703 front, 4 702F/X surround, 4 Polk TL3 (Atmos), Velodyne DD15 Subwoofer.
  • JPeteJPete Posts: 292
    With $3k I'd go balls deep in the used market and pickup an amp, some towers, a center and a sub. Use the 703s for surrounds and probably still have a little left over for a better player and decent cables.
    Lexicon RT-10, Parasound P5, McCormack DNA 0.5, Polk SDA CRS+, SVS Sub
    Schiit Modi, Luminous Audio Axiom II, McCormack DNA-1, Digital Phase AP 2
    Marantz AV7701, Emotiva XPA-5, Paradigm 11se Mkii, DCM Time Windows, NHT 2C, SVS Sub

    Spares - Kenwood C1 Pre, NAD 2200PE, Polk Monitor 10B, Polk Model 11, other odds and ends
  • Jimbo18Jimbo18 Posts: 2,124
    Because of the sales on the LSiM, I would go for the towers and center now, as a couple others stated earlier.
    HT - Pio Elite SC-63, Nuance Spatial 3S, Spatial Cen S, FXi50 surrounds, Def Tech PF 15TL+, Belkin PF30, Samsung UBD-M7500, Roku Premier, Furez 12-2.
    Bedroom - Sony STR DN850, Monitor 5jr+ Series2, CS300 center, Furez 10/2, Roku Ultra
  • LandmonsterLandmonster Posts: 45
    F1nut wrote: »
    Polk is closing out the LSiM series, so you better buy all your speakers now, which happen to be on sale right now

    Do you actually know if they are "closing them out", or just having a sale?

    If they are being phased out, what are they being replaced with?
  • LandmonsterLandmonster Posts: 45
    I plan on using my 703s as surrounds. I had intended to get the 707s as L/R, and the 706c for the center.

    My logic for this was that the 703, 707, and 706 all have the same size driver arrays. They have 6.5" woofers, and 3.25" midrange drivers.

    The 705 and 704c clearly have different drivers, and seem matched to go together.

    The 707 seems matched for the 706c.


    I have never owned any of them besides the 703, but that's just what I see from looking at the marketing lineup.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,956
    F1nut wrote: »
    Polk is closing out the LSiM series, so you better buy all your speakers now, which happen to be on sale right now

    Do you actually know if they are "closing them out", or just having a sale?

    If they are being phased out, what are they being replaced with?

    Yes, closed out.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,956
    edited June 19
    I plan on using my 703s as surrounds. I had intended to get the 707s as L/R, and the 706c for the center.

    My logic for this was that the 703, 707, and 706 all have the same size driver arrays. They have 6.5" woofers, and 3.25" midrange drivers.

    The 705 and 704c clearly have different drivers, and seem matched to go together.

    The 707 seems matched for the 706c.


    I have never owned any of them besides the 703, but that's just what I see from looking at the marketing lineup.

    Flawed logic. The center is the most important and timbre matching (the tweeter mainly) matter the most for the front 3.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,196
    What are your room dimensions??? VERY IMPORTANT PIECE OF THE PUZZLE.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII Upgraded by Rich Brkich Pre
    Butler Audio TBD 2250 Amp
    PS Audio DirectStream DAC and MemoryPlayer Transport
    LSA-1 Statement
    SVS SB4000 & SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

    Backup Gear:
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
  • LandmonsterLandmonster Posts: 45
    F1nut wrote: »
    I plan on using my 703s as surrounds. I had intended to get the 707s as L/R, and the 706c for the center.

    My logic for this was that the 703, 707, and 706 all have the same size driver arrays. They have 6.5" woofers, and 3.25" midrange drivers.

    The 705 and 704c clearly have different drivers, and seem matched to go together.

    The 707 seems matched for the 706c.


    I have never owned any of them besides the 703, but that's just what I see from looking at the marketing lineup.

    Flawed logic. The center is the most important and timbre matching (the tweeter mainly) matter the most for the front 3.

    What would you recommend then, oh wise one? How would anything from the LsiM lineup trump the 707 and 706c front stage?
  • LandmonsterLandmonster Posts: 45
    kharp1 wrote: »
    What are your room dimensions??? VERY IMPORTANT PIECE OF THE PUZZLE.

    15" wide, 16" deep, 10" ceiling. Left wall is open bar to the kitchen area
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,956
    That is not a big room. The largest speaker isn't always the best choice, but I can tell you're going to get them regardless just don't say I didn't try to steer you in the right direction. The 705, heck even the 703 would be plenty.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 3,196
    The 705 would be my choice as well.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII Upgraded by Rich Brkich Pre
    Butler Audio TBD 2250 Amp
    PS Audio DirectStream DAC and MemoryPlayer Transport
    LSA-1 Statement
    SVS SB4000 & SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

    Backup Gear:
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,496
    edited June 20
    kharp1 wrote: »
    What are your room dimensions??? VERY IMPORTANT PIECE OF THE PUZZLE.
    15" wide, 16" deep, 10" ceiling. Left wall is open bar to the kitchen area

    The 707 / 706 addition will run $2600 alone. How does the idea of five 703's sound to you? It does not get much better than 5 identical speakers for HT if you can make them work in your room?
    placement-3.jpg

    The 703 is a fun speaker that I liked better than some Chane A3rx-c towers I had.
    https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/editor/7l/yur468i9irzh.jpg

    For about $3000 I think you could have it all and not miss or want for much more in your medium sized 2400 cu ft room.

    3 x 703 = $1125
    5 x Monolith by Monoprice speaker stands = $300-$350 ($60-$70 each)
    Good value, heavy duty, can be filled and have a large 8.5" x 6" top plate, 75 lbs weight limit to deal with the 8.81" x 14.56" base , 29.6 lbs 703's!
    0EF9764C2EF4466230E3524FB315909A.app1_1540951139591_PZ320.jpeg
    1 x HSU VTF-3 MK5 HP 15" = $865 shipped
    1 x Used B&K 7250 SII 5 ch (200W/ch) amp - $600
    https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649526324-bampk-7250-series-ii-5-channel-amp/
    1 x Used Furman, Belkin PureAV, Panamax power conditioner (eBay, usaudiomart) - $80-$300
    Post edited by WLDock on
    FAMILY ROOM
    HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
    Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
    Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
    Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
    Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 5,590
    I like @WLDock's suggestion a lot! That would be one ROCKING home theater, and would also pump out some sweet two channel music...
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Peachtree Audio NovaPre; B&K TX4430; Bryson BPD-1; Mains: Dynaudio Excite x18; Center - Polk cs400i; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5; LG UP870 4K BDP; NVidia ShieldTV
    ;
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45, NHT Super One CI surrounds, Martin Logan Dynamo (original), Squeezebox Touch
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