Help pick my home theater upgrade path! (Towers, subs, or what else)
Landmonster
Posts: 79
Hi guys.
So my home theater as it stands, includes the following:
As such, I have no surround, no subwoofers, and no towers.
Planned audio additions:
Since I cannot afford all of this at once... The question is.... what should my upgrade path look like?
I see a few real options here:
Option A: Get a center channel speaker, plus 2 subwoofers, for around ~$3,000. This will give me a complete front stage, lots of bass, and take a load off of the receiver (hopefully)... by crossing over all the bass to the subs. I don't know how much of a load off this is. I should probably add the AVR cooler in here if I do this.
Pros: Gives all the bass I will ever need in my theater up front, and gives a complete front stage.
Cons: Provides no surround sound at all, and the front sound stage may lack depth of without the towers. Receiver may still run hot powering 3 speakers, even if subs are handling the main bass.
Option B: Add 2 tower speakers, and a power amplifier, for around ~$3,000. This will give me a 4.0 surround sound system, and give me much more bass, since I'll be adding power amplification and tower speakers with large woofers. A center channel and subwoofers will not be absolutely necessary yet.... as I can run a phantom center, and allow the amplified Polk towers to make the bass.
Pros: Gives instant access to surround sound, takes huge load off of the receiver.
Cons: Lacks bass from subwoofers, lacks center channel
Option C: Suggest your own combo? I want to stay around $2,500 to $3,000 here for this phase, and use the components I have listed above.
So my home theater as it stands, includes the following:
- 2 Polk LSiM 703 bookshelf speakers
- 1 Denon X4500h receiver
- Xbox One X (media streamer, and 4k Bluray player)
- Samsung JS8500 65" 4k TV
As such, I have no surround, no subwoofers, and no towers.
Planned audio additions:
- 2 Polk LSiM 707 tower speakers -- ($1600-2000)
- 1 Polk LSiM 706 center channel speaker -- ($500-600)
- 2 powered 15" subs (Rythmik, HSU, JTR, etc.... not sure yet) -- ($2500+)
- 1 power amplifier (either 2, 3, or 5 channels) -- ($1,000+)
- 1 AVR cooler (Looking at the ACfinity S9) -- ($80)
- ??? (could be room treatments, power conditioning, atmos speakers, etc... don't know yet... suggest something)
Since I cannot afford all of this at once... The question is.... what should my upgrade path look like?
I see a few real options here:
Option A: Get a center channel speaker, plus 2 subwoofers, for around ~$3,000. This will give me a complete front stage, lots of bass, and take a load off of the receiver (hopefully)... by crossing over all the bass to the subs. I don't know how much of a load off this is. I should probably add the AVR cooler in here if I do this.
Pros: Gives all the bass I will ever need in my theater up front, and gives a complete front stage.
Cons: Provides no surround sound at all, and the front sound stage may lack depth of without the towers. Receiver may still run hot powering 3 speakers, even if subs are handling the main bass.
Option B: Add 2 tower speakers, and a power amplifier, for around ~$3,000. This will give me a 4.0 surround sound system, and give me much more bass, since I'll be adding power amplification and tower speakers with large woofers. A center channel and subwoofers will not be absolutely necessary yet.... as I can run a phantom center, and allow the amplified Polk towers to make the bass.
Pros: Gives instant access to surround sound, takes huge load off of the receiver.
Cons: Lacks bass from subwoofers, lacks center channel
Option C: Suggest your own combo? I want to stay around $2,500 to $3,000 here for this phase, and use the components I have listed above.
Comments
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Polk is closing out the LSiM series, so you better buy all your speakers now, which happen to be on sale right now
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Do the subs last. I never turn my sub on anymore.Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
Yep, wait on the subs: get the lsims now!Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
I never turn my subs on..I leave them on. They kick in when they need to. But yes grab them speakers when they are darn near giving them away. Subs can always be added down the line."if it's not fun, it's not worth it & remember folks, "It's All About The Music"!!
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Yup, speakers first since they are being closed out. Then an amplifier, then subs.Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
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^^^^
Listen to this wisdom @Landmonster -
I'd go with a sub(s) and an amp.
I don't think floorstanders and a sub will be much better than the 703's and a sub(s) (and this opinion is based on personal experience).
My personal opinion is that subs make the most difference in an HT.
Add a couple of SVS or HSU subs and an amp and you will be blown away.Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden -
I can also see @PSOVLSK’s logic. The 703s are great speakers, and the two most important speakers in an HT setup are the center and sub. If your room isn’t massive, a 704c with a couple nice subs would be awesome!!!Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
IMO, that’s just stupid. Unless all you watch are moronic movies that are nothing but explosions. Anyway, you have been given various advices. Take your choice.Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
Size of room would help. I'd recommend getting the speakers while they're cheap. 2 fronts and the best center you can afford. Move the current bookies to surround duty. If you can swing it spring for one sub now. You can always add a second later if need be. Then see how it sounds. If you want more from your system then look for a 3,5 or 7 channel amp.
Depending on room dimensions you could possibly use the 705 and you're looking at $1400 for the pair. Add the center for $230 and you still have enough change to get a nice sub.
Rome wasn't built in a day. -
Yes. Good advice. Sorry for being spun up earlier.Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
I honestly think I could downgrade the speakers in my HT and still be very happy since I have an SVS Plus/2. As a matter of fact, I know I could because I've had lesser speakers (including the LSi703) in my HT.
Floorstandes and a quality sub or two subs and keep the 703???? That's a tough one IMO.Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden -
I honestly think I could downgrade the speakers in my HT and still be very happy since I have an SVS Plus/2. As a matter of fact, I know I could because I've had lesser speakers (including the LSi703) in my HT.
Floorstandes and a quality sub or two subs and keep the 703???? That's a tough one IMO.
You say that until you end up with smaller drivers that distort or become excessively shrill. -
Hmm, hard choice. I'd go with a center and sub for a 3.1 then add floor standers.When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
I honestly think I could downgrade the speakers in my HT and still be very happy since I have an SVS Plus/2. As a matter of fact, I know I could because I've had lesser speakers (including the LSi703) in my HT.
Floorstandes and a quality sub or two subs and keep the 703???? That's a tough one IMO.
You say that until you end up with smaller drivers that distort or become excessively shrill.
Guess I just don't listen loud enough because I never had that problem with LSi703 as the speakers in my HT.Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden -
I like lifelike reproduction. Neighbors hated me when I lived in an apartment.
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I use a 703 for a center and 705s for the front left and right. They can definitely do the job when it comes to home theater with the help of subwoofers. If you get 705s or 707s for the left and right, you could use your 703s for surrounds, or use the 703 for L&R and get some 702 F/X for surrounds while they last.SONY VPL-VW385ES, Da-Lite 92" 0.9 HD progressive 16x9 screen, Apple TV 4K, Oppo UDP 203, Anthem AVM 60, D-Sonic 4000 (800x3, 400x4) for bed layer, 2 Crown XLS 1002 (225x4) for Atmos; Speakers: Polk LSiM 705s, 703 front, 4 702F/X surround, 4 Polk TL3 (Atmos), Velodyne DD15 Subwoofer.
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With $3k I'd go balls deep in the used market and pickup an amp, some towers, a center and a sub. Use the 703s for surrounds and probably still have a little left over for a better player and decent cables.Lexicon RT-10, Parasound P5, McCormack DNA 0.5, Polk SDA CRS+, SVS Sub
Schiit Modi, Luminous Audio Axiom II, McCormack DNA-1, Digital Phase AP 2
Marantz AV7701, Emotiva XPA-5, Paradigm 11se Mkii, DCM Time Windows, NHT 2C, SVS Sub
Spares - Kenwood C1 Pre, NAD 2200PE, Polk Monitor 10B, Polk Model 11, other odds and ends -
Because of the sales on the LSiM, I would go for the towers and center now, as a couple others stated earlier.
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Polk is closing out the LSiM series, so you better buy all your speakers now, which happen to be on sale right now
Do you actually know if they are "closing them out", or just having a sale?
If they are being phased out, what are they being replaced with? -
I plan on using my 703s as surrounds. I had intended to get the 707s as L/R, and the 706c for the center.
My logic for this was that the 703, 707, and 706 all have the same size driver arrays. They have 6.5" woofers, and 3.25" midrange drivers.
The 705 and 704c clearly have different drivers, and seem matched to go together.
The 707 seems matched for the 706c.
I have never owned any of them besides the 703, but that's just what I see from looking at the marketing lineup. -
Landmonster wrote: »
Yes, closed out.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Landmonster wrote: »I plan on using my 703s as surrounds. I had intended to get the 707s as L/R, and the 706c for the center.
My logic for this was that the 703, 707, and 706 all have the same size driver arrays. They have 6.5" woofers, and 3.25" midrange drivers.
The 705 and 704c clearly have different drivers, and seem matched to go together.
The 707 seems matched for the 706c.
I have never owned any of them besides the 703, but that's just what I see from looking at the marketing lineup.
Flawed logic. The center is the most important and timbre matching (the tweeter mainly) matter the most for the front 3.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
What are your room dimensions??? VERY IMPORTANT PIECE OF THE PUZZLE.
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Landmonster wrote: »I plan on using my 703s as surrounds. I had intended to get the 707s as L/R, and the 706c for the center.
My logic for this was that the 703, 707, and 706 all have the same size driver arrays. They have 6.5" woofers, and 3.25" midrange drivers.
The 705 and 704c clearly have different drivers, and seem matched to go together.
The 707 seems matched for the 706c.
I have never owned any of them besides the 703, but that's just what I see from looking at the marketing lineup.
Flawed logic. The center is the most important and timbre matching (the tweeter mainly) matter the most for the front 3.
What would you recommend then, oh wise one? How would anything from the LsiM lineup trump the 707 and 706c front stage? -
What are your room dimensions??? VERY IMPORTANT PIECE OF THE PUZZLE.
15" wide, 16" deep, 10" ceiling. Left wall is open bar to the kitchen area -
That is not a big room. The largest speaker isn't always the best choice, but I can tell you're going to get them regardless just don't say I didn't try to steer you in the right direction. The 705, heck even the 703 would be plenty.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The 705 would be my choice as well.
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Landmonster wrote: »
The 707 / 706 addition will run $2600 alone. How does the idea of five 703's sound to you? It does not get much better than 5 identical speakers for HT if you can make them work in your room?
The 703 is a fun speaker that I liked better than some Chane A3rx-c towers I had.
https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/editor/7l/yur468i9irzh.jpg
For about $3000 I think you could have it all and not miss or want for much more in your medium sized 2400 cu ft room.
3 x 703 = $1125
5 x Monolith by Monoprice speaker stands = $300-$350 ($60-$70 each)
Good value, heavy duty, can be filled and have a large 8.5" x 6" top plate, 75 lbs weight limit to deal with the 8.81" x 14.56" base , 29.6 lbs 703's!
1 x HSU VTF-3 MK5 HP 15" = $865 shipped
1 x Used B&K 7250 SII 5 ch (200W/ch) amp - $600
https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649526324-bampk-7250-series-ii-5-channel-amp/
1 x Used Furman, Belkin PureAV, Panamax power conditioner (eBay, usaudiomart) - $80-$300Post edited by WLDock on2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2 -
I like @WLDock's suggestion a lot! That would be one ROCKING home theater, and would also pump out some sweet two channel music...Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
