Polk Audio Monitor 7

dvmo
dvmo Posts: 3
edited April 2019 in Vintage Speakers
So I'm completely new on here and overall new audio gear. I recently just inquired some Polk Audio monitor 7 speakers for my record setup. They they sound amazing! But I would like to know which series (7a, 7b, or 7c) Polk Audio monitor 7 speakers do I have? Because I would like to possibly upgrade the tweeters and the crossovers since it's missing some components on one the speakers.

Over all do you guys think I should upgrade the tweeters and crossovers? If so, which tweeter model would you guys recommend?

I uploaded couple images of my current Polk audio speakers.

Thanks, anything would be greatly appreciated!

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Answers

  • tonyp063
    tonyp063 Posts: 1,081
    edited April 2019
    7B.
    SL2000 tweeter.
    This should be the schematic for them.

    https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/4/6/7/2/8/18773.pdf

    The usual renovation is to replace the caps (Sonicap or ClarityCSA) & resistors (Mills 12w)
    Remove the polyswitch & increase the value of the tweeter resistor by 0.5 ohms
    Replace the tweeter itself with an RD-0194

    The other option is the "TL" upgrade.
    RD-0198 tweeters & an additional cap on the tweeter circuit.
    Per this schematic
    https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/4/6/7/2/8/18774.pdf

    Obviously you'll want to replace the binding posts.
    And you'll want to secure the magnets on the mid-woofers with PowerGrab or such.
    Plenty of threads here on HOW-TO.

    Also. Polk was known to be whimsical with component values at times, so go with what's on the crossovers now. Pics will help.
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,629
    Very nice speakers & well worth doing the upgrades. Hang around & get those sounding awesome. Welcome to the Polk Forum
    ..
  • tonyp063
    tonyp063 Posts: 1,081
    Oh and.
    If you need help, ask. People here are happy to assist.

    Like I said. there are *many* threads on upgrading those wonderful speakers.
    Yes, they are very much worth restoring!

    Worth every penny & every bit of time
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,494
    Those are 7C's with the beveled front edges.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • dvmo
    dvmo Posts: 3
    @tonyp063 thanks a lot for the reply! Sounds like I gotta do some research and find these replacement parts soon!
  • dvmo
    dvmo Posts: 3
    @F1nut how can you determined the differences between the 7b's and 7c's, what are the differences anyways?
  • quentello
    quentello Posts: 6
    edited April 2023
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    Hi all, Been watching on the side until now,, Bought a MINT pair of Monitor 7 with the original tweeters and they sound great ! And get this,, in the original boxes with all the literature !! But,, lacking in the upper mids and highs a bit as far as I am concerned. Bass is pure and sweet !! So I ordered the RD-0198 tweeters which Polk calls the SL-3000. I got the 20% discount but now they charge shipping. Still to my door was only $105 which I feel is good ! So now I need the additional cap on the tweeter circuit. I am a bit confused, From what I gather I should replace all the caps (Sonicap or ClarityCSA) & resistors (Mills 12w) and add the extra cap, yes? I downloaded the schematic as I am not comfortable doing it myself and will have a good buddy do it.
    What can I expect to hear as a difference to the sound?
    Thank you all for the great advice I found on here !

    Powered by my Kenwood KR-9600
  • joebass3
    joebass3 Posts: 283
    edited April 2023
    What tweeters do you currently have? Looks like the Monitor 7 "TL" mod has been done by @westmassguy, but I think the original tweeter has to be the SL2000. Maybe he can verify if that is true.
    Post edited by joebass3 on
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,494
    Judging by the picture and address on the boxes the tweeters are the Peerless. Therefore, the RD0198-1 is the wrong tweeter, sonically and physically.

    Leave the Peerless alone as they are a fine tweeter.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    Judging by the picture and address on the boxes the tweeters are the Peerless. Therefore, the RD0198-1 is the wrong tweeter, sonically and physically.

    Leave the Peerless alone as they are a fine tweeter.

    I am really confused,, I went off the info in the post above saying that the "TL" upgrade was the way to go ! Now I see it other posts its a crazy involved upgrade. Or, is it just adding the extra cap? I have the RD 0198`s on the way,,, was I miss lead on that post above from tonyp063 ? Or did I get it wrong ?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,494
    edited April 2023
    You cannot use the RD0198-1 tweeter in a vintage Polk speaker that came with the Peerless tweeter. Nor would you want to as the Peerless is a fine tweeter.

    The post you are referring to is in reference to the Monitor 7 that came with the SL2000. It's a different animal.

    You got it wrong.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    You cannot use the RD0198-1 tweeter in a vintage Polk speaker that came with the Peerless tweeter. Nor would you want to as the Peerless is a fine tweeter.

    The post you are referring to is in reference to the Monitor 7 that came with the SL2000. It's a different animal.

    You got it wrong.

    OK,, So no sense in changing the Peerless ? Do I just update the crossover with better caps ? And now that I see what you see on the box those are not the same as in on the speakers. I am trying here,, to learn, not tell ! I tried to post two picture the first time,, only one of the box posted. Now from what I see and from what the other post shows I have the same SL2000 Tweeter,,, that said, I am just trying to keep and get the best sound from these Polk`s !! If that means changing the tweeters I will,, if it means rebuilding the crossover I will,, if it means do both,, I`ll do that.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,494
    Those are the SL2000 tweeter, so you can try the TL conversion.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    Those are the SL2000 tweeter, so you can try the TL conversion.

    Thank you,, do you know anything about that conversion sound wise? Or would the RD 0194 with new caps be a better way to go,,
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,494
    The only thing I can tell you about that is the RD0194-1 is a drop in replacement. That tweeter is a vast improvement over The SL2000. The other requires unofficial crossover notifications.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,455
    Dave (westmassguy) laid it all out in this thread. His customer never got back to us on SQ after burn in was finished but he was happy. You may need the ability to measure inductance unless you can find the correct value inductor off the shelf.

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/192120/monitor-7-with-tl-upgrade
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,455
    I think Jantzen 000-1640 air core would work just fine. Non stock item though:

    https://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/000-1640-027mh-jantzen-air-core-wire-coil.html
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • I called first thing this morning and canceled the order for the RD0198`s,, gunna think on it for a while, Most likely go with the 0194`s and update the crossovers with new caps and such. Sounds like the best/easier way to go,,
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,412
    You'll not be disappointed in the RD-0194 tweeters. They're leaps better than the SL-2000.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,494
    Good plan.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk