Musical twin subs on a budget

For starters, a BIG thank you to everyone on my first post who recommended the signature series. I bought a set of S60s and I LOVE them.

Now onto today’s topic. I want to get a set of subs to add more low end. I stated in my last post that I had bass covered, well I’ve changed my setup and want to upgrade.

I bought three cheap Sony 10” subs ($30 ea at BB on clearance) and I I had them setup around my listening recliner. Where I sat, it sounded great but it really lacked everywhere else in the room. I decided to put two of them up front with the S60s for better room balance and I’ve discovered it’s not enough now.

No I’ve searched other forums and found that the SVS subs are the best performers for music but after dropping the dough for the S60s I don’t have a big budget for subs. I’ve read a lot about dual sub setups and I’m pretty sure I want to stick with that but that isn’t set in stone.
I’m seriously considering the BIC F12s 150 watt rms subs as they have great reviews and are considered by many, a great value.

The room I’m in is a finished basement living room with 8’ flat ceilings and Is relatively small somewhere around 9 x 20 with a listening distance of around 6 1/2 feet so I don’t think I need anything huge. I’m setting the budget at around $500-$600. I’m also looking at dual BIC PL-200 iis which provide 250 watts RMS.

I have discovered for my tastes I like bass in the 60 hz range which is my go to crossover setting on my receiver.

Anyone have these? Are they decent for music? Sure I know there’s a lot better out there but I just don’t have the budget for it.

Please don’t make fun of my drawing😆😆 I just wanted to make something for reference.

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Comments

  • erniejade
    erniejade Posts: 6,321
    After the 2 openings, is there an actual solid corner like in the drawing? If so, try putting the subs in each corner. If wires are an issue, I think outlaw audio sells a wireless subwoofer adapter.
    Klipsch The Nines, Audioquest Thunderbird Interconnect, Innuos Zen MK3 W4S recovery, Revolution Audio Labs USB & Ethernet, Border Patrol SE-I, Audioquest Niagara 5000 & Thunder, Cullen Crossover II PC's.
  • This was a rough drawing. The shaded part is the enclosed steps coming downstairs and both back corners have doors leading to other rooms so no I can’t put anything back there.
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    are you a cereal killer?
  • erniejade
    erniejade Posts: 6,321
    So you are limited by that wall or a wireless adapter on another wall. Do a sub crawl. put the sub in your listening spot and get crawl around the room ( at sub placement level) and see where the bass sounds good to you.
    Klipsch The Nines, Audioquest Thunderbird Interconnect, Innuos Zen MK3 W4S recovery, Revolution Audio Labs USB & Ethernet, Border Patrol SE-I, Audioquest Niagara 5000 & Thunder, Cullen Crossover II PC's.
  • afterburnt wrote: »
    are you a cereal killer?
    🤨😆?
  • I like the current placement. I’ve tried several things and this gives the best balance. I’m more interested in what you guys think about the BIC subs.
  • Milito
    Milito Posts: 2,002
    You need to take the plastic wrap off you speakers behind your grills.
    Yamaha RX-A2070, Musical Fidelity M6si integrated amp, Benchmark Dac1, Bluesound NODE 2i, Audiolab 6000CDT CD Transport, Parasound Zphono USB Phono Preamp, Fluance RT85, Ortofon 2M Bronze, Polk L600's, L400, L900's, RC80i's, SVS 3000 Micro, Audioquest Interconnects and Digital Cables, Nordost Silver Shadow Digital Cable, Cullen Gold and Crossover Series Power Cables, Douglas Connection Alpha 12AWG OCC Speaker Cables, Douglas Connection Alpha Analog Interconnect Cables, Douglas Connection Alpha 11 OCC Custom Power Cable, Signal Power Cable, Furman PL-8C 15 Power Conditioner, Sony 65" 900F, Sony UBP-X700, Fios, Apple TV 4K, Audioquest Chocolate HDMI Cables. SnubWay, Main Stream
  • deronb1
    deronb1 Posts: 5,021
    ^^^^This. However, if you are dead set on subs, look at the Def Tech Supercubes.
  • rpf65
    rpf65 Posts: 2,127
    One good sub( svs, hsu, rythmik, and a host of others) will preform better than a pair of bic subs.

    The s-60’s, properly powered would give 2 bics or pretty much any budget sub a run for the money.

    Get your s-60 powered correctly, and don’t go cheap on the sub.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,121
    Agreed - more power is a better investment than cheap subs. This is even true with good bookies that can dig into the 40s hz, but especially with those towers.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • kharp1
    kharp1 Posts: 3,453
    edited April 2019
    Agree with the above posts. Get the best/most out of what you have now, and, when you do get a sub get a quality sub. Start with one. I'm running my main system in a small room that had terrible dimensions for sound. I started out with one SVS, but, decided to get a second. I ended up going back to one sub. You may have more trouble pressuring your listening area due to dimensions and layout.

    Tweak what you have now to get the most out of it then add a quality sub. You can get a quality sub for thr price of two "budget" subs. That one will probably work well enough until a second could be added.
  • JPete
    JPete Posts: 295
    I'd vote on a single SVS sub. I've got a single in a large room and it gets along pretty well.

    Also, these are in the FS section right now. Never heard them personally, but they fit your budget. Local pickup though.

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/185672/nht-subwoofers#latest
    Lexicon RT-10, Parasound P5, McCormack DNA 0.5, Polk SDA CRS+, SVS Sub
    Schiit Modi, Luminous Audio Axiom II, McCormack DNA-1, Digital Phase AP 2
    Marantz AV7701, Emotiva XPA-5, Paradigm 11se Mkii, DCM Time Windows, NHT 2C, SVS Sub

    Spares - Kenwood C1 Pre, NAD 2200PE, Polk Monitor 10B, Polk Model 11, other odds and ends
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,471
    I've had lot of time on SVS and HSU, either will do you good. Save for a quality sub. cheap subs suck! Around November SVS puts out a 12NSD sub for a great price. Save till then.

    Are you using your AVR calibration program to set your subs?
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • kharp1
    kharp1 Posts: 3,453
    You will probably need some decent calibration tools to help with you room. You have some challenges in that shaped room and you may have issues trying to get proper levels of pressure in some spots.
  • PSOVLSK
    PSOVLSK Posts: 5,371
    You may not be too happy with the responses since no one has directly addressed the BIC subs, but the truth is you've been given some advice that will improve your system now and will provide for upgrades in the future.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,471
    On a side note,

    A friend has two Polk 505 subs in his system. Thinks it sounds great. One day I went over for a BBQ and dragged my old 10" HSU STF2 over. my old single STF2 sounded way better than his two budget subs. He almost didn't let me leave with it.

    a VTF2 is in your price range. it will knock those sony's out

    http://hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-2mk5.html
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • kharp1
    kharp1 Posts: 3,453
    To directly answer your question, I have no experience with that sub. I've owned older JBL subs back in the late 80's, JBL's from the early 2000's, Polk, Velodyne, and SVS. I've had personal experience with several other subs, Paradigm, Klipsch Def Tech, etc. Many of them are decent subs, but, you will find a following of folks that will say not to waste your money on that type of equipment when you can ultimately do better for not much more. And, general consensus is one good quality sub is more beneficial than two lesser quality.
  • ddog
    ddog Posts: 230
    edited April 2019
    Ok..I'll throw my hat in the ring...

    My advice would be to get a set of Elac 3010 subs. They have built in DSP's so you can calibrate them to your room on the fly using your smartphone.

    They have a 400w amp, 10 inch woofer and 10 inch passive radiator in each.
    You can get them off Ebay for under $300 each.

    These subs are very musical and with their DSP's you can optimize them to sound great anywhere in your room. You will have complete control of them from an app on your phone while setting in your chair....

    Also....could you maybe turn the room around and put the couch where the TV/stereo is and the the tv/stereo where the couch is..?
    This would allow you to speed things out a bit and help even out the bass in the room..
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    edited April 2019
    ^^^Great idea there on the ELAC. and I would agree with others to get power to the mains first, and/or consider with the internet direct brands or even go DIY!

    However, the Signature line has such a cool look, it would be cool to have the matching subs. The HTS 12 gets good feedback and can get down to 20Hz with a little tuning and room gain. It's $330 shipped from amazon. Worth a strong consideration.

    https://www.avsforum.com/review-polk-hts12-12-ported-subwoofer-review/

    https://www.crutchfield.com/S-D24n0tC0fxE/p_107HTS12/Polk-Audio-HTS-12-Washed-Black-Walnut.html

    https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-HTS-SUB-BLK/dp/B075LQ2TNQ#customerReviews

    Look at the thick MDF well braced cabinet
    Polk-HTS12-Subwoofer-at-CEDIA-2017-1-768x512.jpg
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Sub 1 - Mirage Omni S8 | Sub 2 - Mirage Omni S8

    5.2 A/V Setup | OLED TV - Sony Bravia XR A80J 77" | Source - Fire TV 4K Max, Wiim Pro | AVR - Anthem MRX 520 | Speakers: Main - Boston Acoustics VR3 | Center - Boston Acoustics VR920 | Rear - Boston Acoustics VR-MX | Sub 1 - HSU VTF-2 mk3 | Sub 2 - HSU VTF-2 mk3
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,471
    We demoed the HTS subs at Fry's. Not a bad sub much better than the 505. @ $330 it's not a bad buy. I'd still rather wait and get and SVS or HSU.

    Now if the HTS 12 came in @ $250 it would be a go to sub.

    I can't say on the Elac. I've never had the chance to listen to one
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    edited April 2019
    mrloren wrote: »
    @ $330 it's not a bad buy. I'd still rather wait and get and SVS or HSU. Now if the HTS 12 came in @ $250 it would be a go to sub.

    Yes, the internet direct brands would be the way to go but it all comes down to ones budget. All of these are good cost to performance value options:

    2 x JBL SUB550P 10" sealed- $399.90 shipped
    2 x Polk HTS 10 ported - $598 shipped
    2 x Polk HTS 12 ported - $660 shipped
    2 x ELAC Debut 2.0 SUB3010 10" Passive Radiator $719.96 shipped
    2 x DIY Subs $600 - $1000
    2 x RSL Speedwoofer 10s 10" Ported - $798 shipped
    2 x HSU VTF-1 MK3 10" ported - $861 shipped
    2 x SVS SB-1000 12" sealed - $949 shipped
    2 x SVS PB-1000 10" ported- $949 shipped
    2 x Monoprice Monolith 10" sealed or ported - $949 shipped
    2 x REL REL Acoustics HT/1003 10" sealed - $998 shipped
    2 x HSU VTF-2 MK5 - 12" ported - $1155 shipped
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Sub 1 - Mirage Omni S8 | Sub 2 - Mirage Omni S8

    5.2 A/V Setup | OLED TV - Sony Bravia XR A80J 77" | Source - Fire TV 4K Max, Wiim Pro | AVR - Anthem MRX 520 | Speakers: Main - Boston Acoustics VR3 | Center - Boston Acoustics VR920 | Rear - Boston Acoustics VR-MX | Sub 1 - HSU VTF-2 mk3 | Sub 2 - HSU VTF-2 mk3
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,471
    Keep it simple, go with one VTF2MK5 and IF you need another (which I doubt) then you will know which one to get. I'd rather have a single HSU or SVS over two HTS subs.

    The VTF2 hits the performance price point with good deep bass. My VTF3 is a 15" driver that is also very musical. I listen to 70's-80's rock mostly and it does very good with it. I keep thinking of adding a 2nd one but I have no place to put it and don't want to damage my house (seriously).

    I've had a listen to the Monoprice Monolith subs, I'd stay away from them, cheap SVS knock off's that don't sound that great. My bro sent them back after a week and got two SVS PB12NSD subs and loves them.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • kharp1
    kharp1 Posts: 3,453
    Also, check the SVS outlet, they have done decent deals and they carry the same warranty and in home trial.
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 4,620
    With the space limitation in the photos, I would go with a single subwoofer to the right side of the system outside the right speaker. The biggest SVS the budget will allow. Maybe think about getting a second matching one at a later date.
  • PSOVLSK
    PSOVLSK Posts: 5,371
    Emlyn wrote: »
    With the space limitation in the photos, I would go with a single subwoofer to the right side of the system outside the right speaker. The biggest SVS the budget will allow. Maybe think about getting a second matching one at a later date.

    Honestly, call SVS. They will not oversell you. I know I've said it before, but they talked me down to a lower sub because they said it would be better in my system.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • ddog
    ddog Posts: 230
    So for those suggesting a SVS sub....should he a SB or PB...?

    Another thing to think about here is that the way he has it set up...the room is open to both sides behind the speakers and sound is firing at a lot of glass.
    Definitely going to need some heavy DSP( room correction) work and some room treatments would really help.

  • kharp1
    kharp1 Posts: 3,453
    Are you mostly HT use, or, is listening to music your main focus? I ported sub will typically dig deeper, however, you lose a bit of "control" on the musical side. Like the previous poster mentioned try calling SVS. Great people to work with. My feeling is that with your room dimensions you'd be better off with a sealed box. And, DSP will probably be very important in your use.

  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    edited April 2019
    I think all have the OP set in the right direction in suggesting the best single sub. However, the OP really needs to figure out what his current budget is as well as his future budget. He did say he had other priorities so audio may take a back seat for awhile.

    I think the jewel of his system are the S60 towers. I would start with getting a better receiver to power them over the $299 retail Pioneer he has now. A receiver / amp combo would be great but even shopping used it may take time to find something nice within the budget. His current reciver does not have preouts.

    Nevertheless, maybe look at some local used stuff on craigslist, facebook marketplace, letgo, offerup, etc? Here are some options:

    A better receiver:

    Pioneer SC-1222- K Network ready 7.2 Channel AV Receiver - $275 (MSRP $1,100!) This has the D3 amps that really deliver the advertised power.
    https://lynchburg.craigslist.org/ele/d/lynchburg-pioneer-sc-network-ready-72/6852613139.html

    Here are the test for the premium model the SC-61 that is the Elite version of the SC-1222-K:https://www.soundandvision.com/content/pioneer-elite-sc-61-av-receiver-ht-labs-measures
    The D3 Pioneer driving the S60's is almost like having an outboard amp!

    HT Labs Measures
    Two channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
    0.1% distortion at 127.2 watts
    1% distortion at 150.3 watts

    Five channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
    0.1% distortion at 109.0 watts
    1% distortion at 127.7 watts

    Seven channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
    0.1% distortion at 99.4 watts
    1% distortion at 110.3 watts


    or this:
    Marantz AV Surround Receiver SR6012 - $400 More powerful and refined than what the OP has now (MSRP $1499!).https://charlottesville.craigslist.org/ele/d/charlottesville-marantz-av-surround/6860564793.html

    or this older flagship powerful Marantz for $500 (MSRP $1799!)
    https://harrisonburg.craigslist.org/ele/d/harrisonburg-marantz-sr7007-receiver/6859576475.html

    Once you give the S60's a good front end, then find a good deal on a sub. Maybe this super cheap deal?

    SVS 25-31CS w/ 100W plate amplifier - $50! I bet this single sub and the lowly 100W plare amp sounds better than the three Sony subs?
    https://winchester.craigslist.org/ele/d/white-post-subwoofer-svs/6835525955.html

    Here's another:
    HSU VTF-3 MK1 - $349
    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2509999745696726/

    Check here for others: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/112309152119072/search/?query=SVS&categoryID=allelectronics&vertical=C2C&sort=BEST_MATCH


    I like the above suggestions as it can be done within the OP's $500-$600 budget. The Pioneer AVR and sub for $350 is a no brainer! Also, there should be noticeable performance gains and will set the op in the right direction and might sustain him for awhile. Then, he can decide where to go from there.

    Post edited by WLDock on
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Sub 1 - Mirage Omni S8 | Sub 2 - Mirage Omni S8

    5.2 A/V Setup | OLED TV - Sony Bravia XR A80J 77" | Source - Fire TV 4K Max, Wiim Pro | AVR - Anthem MRX 520 | Speakers: Main - Boston Acoustics VR3 | Center - Boston Acoustics VR920 | Rear - Boston Acoustics VR-MX | Sub 1 - HSU VTF-2 mk3 | Sub 2 - HSU VTF-2 mk3
  • sgmsmg
    sgmsmg Posts: 556
    I think some of the Pioneer receivers suggested are susceptible to the HDMI Board failure though?
    2 Channel
    Pre: Bryston BR20
    Amp: Buckeye NCx500
    Speakers: Polk L200
    Source: Oppo UDP-205, Bryston BDP-3, Bryston BCD-3, Apple TV, Amazon Fire
    Cables: Wireworld Gold Eclipse 7 Speaker, Wireworld Gold Eclipse 7 XLR, AQ Diamond USB/HDMI
    Power: PS Audio P10 Regenerator, AC12, AC10 and AC5 Cables
    Display: Sony XBR65Z9F

    Home Theater
    Pre: Anthem AVM90
    Amps: Buckeye NC502
    Speakers: Polk LSiM 707 (FL/FR), Polk LSiM706 (Center), LSiM 703 (SL/SR/SBL/SBR), Polk 900-LS (Atmos)
    Subwoofers: SVS SB16 x 4
    Source: Oppo UDP-205, Apple TV, Amazon Fire
    Cables: AQ Meteor/Rocket 88, AQ Niagara/Sky
    Power: Torus AVR20, Shunyata Denali, Shunyata Delta, Cullen, PangeaAC9SE Cables
    Display: Sony XBR85Z9G