SDA CRS Owner Needs Advice
Mojo212
Posts: 2
I have a set of 1985 Polk SDA CRS speakers. My dad bought these and a R8 Yamaha Receiver back in the day from a local Hi-Fi shop. They are clean and look to be un damaged. I have the OEM stands and cross-over cable. They just don't sound too good. I have been using them as the front left and right speakers on my surround set-up. I want to get them back into shape for 2ch music listening. I do have very good soldering and mechanical skills. What is the best route to restore these things? I read about new cross-overs, circuit boards, replacing caps and resistors. I don't want to spend a ton of money on them. From what I have read once they are restored they are a decent speaker. Any advice from the experts on what parts I should buy and replace. I mainly listen to classic rock music.
I have a RXA2000 Yamaha home theater amp or the old 85 watt R-8 receiver. I was thinking of using the B speaker setting on the RX A2000 with the Polks CRS for music and get another set of speakers for surround. Will these amps be enough to drive them?
I have a RXA2000 Yamaha home theater amp or the old 85 watt R-8 receiver. I was thinking of using the B speaker setting on the RX A2000 with the Polks CRS for music and get another set of speakers for surround. Will these amps be enough to drive them?
Comments
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Curious on what you feel the speakers are lacking sound quality wise. Even when my SDA 2Bs were stock and hooked up to an older Yamaha AV-34 they sounded pretty good.Just a dude doing dude-ly things
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Placement is absolutely critical with these and all SDA speakers, but especially the CRS due to the PR orientation. Ideally, you should run a quality, high amp output, 2 channel amplifier for the Polks. Current is the name of the game with SDA. A NAD PE 2200 is a good, inexpensive example (used). Rotel, adcom, emotiva, etc.
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You probably know this since your father bought them... The first rule for SDAs is don't toe them any like you do other speakers. If you do they will sound bad. If they are the ones with 2 tweeters disconnecting the outside tweeters will probably help them sound better.
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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Great info above.. Keep in mind there ARE different CRS speakers. Crs+ & Crs ? Do you have 1 -or- 2 tweeter per cabinet? Which (cross-over cable) do you have? Blade Blade IC cord -or- Pin Blade IC cord? Especially being 1985. Make sure YOU know which ones you have if your doing crossovers upgrades. They may differ if your reading about upgrades. Welcome to forum..
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I was almost where you are just a year ago. Although I never thought my 1984 CRS speakers sounded bad, with the original Yamaha R-9 receiver, they never sounded like they did in the hi fi showroom where I bought them. I'm ashamed to say that back then I didn't even know enough to ask what kind of amplification they were using -- it was all the same, right? Doh!
Download the latest SDA Handbook from this site. Test your speakers in their current form to make sure they measure up. Maybe something has gone bad over the years. Pay strict attention to placement and spacing. Then, replace your receiver with a good integrated amp or amp/preamp separates. I love the Rotel pre/amp combo I have (RTC-940AX and RB-990BX) and I picked them up for $350 total.
If you still don't like the sound, consider some or all of the updates/upgrades listed in the Handbook. You don't have to spend a fortune on the best caps and resistors. Dayton 1% and Jantzen Crosscaps will cost you a little over $100 for both crossovers. Do the Dynamat, Sonic Barrier, and hurricane nuts.
Consider a subwoofer, if you think the CRS are lacking in bass (first try putting them a couple inches from the back wall -- it makes a difference).
Finally, be sure to use good interconnect cables and speaker wire. You don't need to spend hundreds of dollars at this point. You might also consider making some sound treatments for your listening room, as may be needed.
Take your time. Listen to your system all along the way and assess how each step improves your sound. Then plan the next project and move on. You'll be happy and proud of what you've learned and accomplished when you've finished. From these humble beginnings, the sky's the limit if you want to go farther.
Enjoy the ride! -
I have a set of 1985 Polk SDA CRS speakers. My dad bought these and a R8 Yamaha Receiver back in the day from a local Hi-Fi shop. They are clean and look to be un damaged. I have the OEM stands and cross-over cable. They just don't sound too good. I have been using them as the front left and right speakers on my surround set-up. I want to get them back into shape for 2ch music listening. I do have very good soldering and mechanical skills. What is the best route to restore these things? I read about new cross-overs, circuit boards, replacing caps and resistors. I don't want to spend a ton of money on them. From what I have read once they are restored they are a decent speaker. Any advice from the experts on what parts I should buy and replace. I mainly listen to classic rock music.
I have a RXA2000 Yamaha home theater amp or the old 85 watt R-8 receiver. I was thinking of using the B speaker setting on the RX A2000 with the Polks CRS for music and get another set of speakers for surround. Will these amps be enough to drive them?
If they have the SL2000 tweeter that screatch at ya-that can be irritating to the ears. Polk has "drop in" replacements (if in stock).. -
Yeah, totally forgot to mention the tweeters. Probably RD-0194s from Polk. They don't exactly drop in, as they're a tad larger than the cut-outs in the original baffles. You can do woodwork to make the replacements fit, or do it the simple way I did. Trim off the outer flange of the new tweeter (I used a Dremel cutting wheel or three). Then the tweeter mounts flush in the original space. You may need to replace the gaskets on some or all of the drivers. Armacell foam insulation tape is the way to go.
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Update. I hooked my CRS + Polks to an old Yamaha R-8 amp. I set them 3" from wall and they sound fantastic! it seems my RX-A2000 is injured and that was the problem. Thanks
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Yeah, totally forgot to mention the tweeters. Probably RD-0194s from Polk. They don't exactly drop in, as they're a tad larger than the cut-outs in the original baffles. You can do woodwork to make the replacements fit, or do it the simple way I did. Trim off the outer flange of the new tweeter (I used a Dremel cutting wheel or three). Then the tweeter mounts flush in the original space. You may need to replace the gaskets on some or all of the drivers. Armacell foam insulation tape is the way to go.
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You may want to check out @DarqueKnight's TL upgrade thread and consider doing this mod if/when you update the crossovers. I followed this and @nspindel's threads and love the results. IIRC it was $200ish for Sonicap/Solen/Mills and RDO198.
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/46489/4-1tl-modification-for-1989-version-sda-crs/p1b]Beach Audio[/b]: Rega RP6 (mods) - AT33PTG/II - Parks Budgie SUT - PSAudio NPC * Eversolo DMP-A6 * Topping D90iii * Joule-Electra LA-100 mkIII * Pass Aleph 30 * MIT S3 * Polk SRS 2.3tl (mods) * PSAudio PPP3
Beach Study: Pro-Ject Stream Box S2 Ultra & Pre Box S2 * Pass ACA * DH Labs SS Q10 * Brines Folded ML-TQWT RS 40-1354 * PSA Dectet
Beach Master: WiiM Pro * Dayens Menuetto * Zu Libtec * Dynaudio Audience 50
Beach Den: Bluesound Powernode 2i * DH Labs SS Q10 * Zu Omen DWII * Richard Gray RGPC
Town Study: WiiM Pro * Chord Qute (Pardo) * Elekit TU-8600 * MIT S3 * Revel M22 * Beyer DT-990 * Shunyata Hydra 2
Town Den: Music Hall mm5.1se - Denon DL-103r - Jolida JD9ii (mods) * WiiM Pro * Cary xCiter * Rogue 99 Magnum * Schiit Aegir * MIT S3 * Polk SRS 1.2tl (mods) * Dectet * Bottlehead Crack - Senn 600
Town Porch: WiiM Pro Plus * Sunfire Sig II * Canare 4S11 * Magnepan 1.6 * Dectet -
I did not read the whole thread but with my CRS they did not bloom until I moved them about 18 inches off the back wall and removed the SDS SRS 2 from behind them.