Anybody using an anti static brush with drain wire?
muncybob
Posts: 3,042
They ain't cheap but in theory they may work? There are times in the dry winter I could use some help in the static noise department....anybody have any experience with these?
Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub.
Comments
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Nope.
I concur "in theory".
An antistatic 'gun' is (still) probably the best way to go if you have severe static probvlems.
We used 'em (Zerostats) in the lab in the wintertime to neutralize static when weighing fluffy and valuable materials (typically stuff that had been lyophilized = freeze dried) -- otherwise, it was impossible to weigh some things. -
I still have my discwasher kit that has the zerostat gun. Don't use the gun here in FL cuz we got enough humidity year round to prevent static.
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If you're having a constant problem you can invest in an ionizing air blower to flood the turntable area with filtered air. Blowers are available on many sites for around a C-note and then do a little modification work by adding filter material on the inlet side to prevent contamination issues from particles in your room air. We use these for electronic workstations to protect highly sensitive components from ESD and they produce some impressive results. I'm talking dropping measurable voltage levels from quad digits down to low double digit readings. The guns work well on objects but the blowers address the area issues.
Simco units are durable but come at a price, Yuchengtech makes some cost-effective models that work fine if you keep them clean. Adding the filter material to the inlet side would deal with this issue.
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If you mean this, I use this.
It works great for static and dust but not as harsh on the record surface as the carbon antistatic brushes. But the trade off is not as stiff and might miss bigger more stubborn particles -
The new/current production Milty anti static/Zerostat guns are completely worthless. I had 2 in the last 2 years and they both stopped working. With regular, gentle, use these guns have a failure rate of 100% Whatever they used to make them back in the day is not what they use to make them now. I would avoid the Milty Zerostat guns at all costs.Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
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The new/current production Milty anti static/Zerostat guns are completely worthless. I had 2 in the last 2 years and they both stopped working. With regular, gentle, use these guns have a failure rate of 100% Whatever they used to make them back in the day is not what they use to make them now. I would avoid the Milty Zerostat guns at all costs.
That's too bad
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...and I was just about to pull the trigger on the Milty see what I did there?
That big brush looks interesting and appears to be the cheapest option although thinking about the ionizer too. Since I have a habit of brushing the record before playing I may lean toward the brush...decision...decisions.Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
Would the ionizer have to run continually or can you shut it off while playing the record?Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub.
