Magnet Shift Preventing Adhesive take a look

RandyCroissant

Ok fellas, I know we need to try and prevent the magnets from shifting and locking up the voice coils in our vintage Polks.

I have used Power Grab and thought about using epoxy, but always thought there must be another adhesive out there that is made for metal, strong, no silicone, no mess, dries clear, no odor, etc...etc...

I have found what I hope is the answer it's called Locktite GO2 Glue $4.97 1.75 oz size from Menards
I used it on my 1C MW woofers, Easy as can be.

pitdogg2

Interesting

F1nut

RandyCroissant wrote: »

Ok fellas, I know we need to try and prevent the magnets from shifting and locking up the voice coils in our vintage Polks.

I have used Power Grab and thought about using epoxy, but always thought there must be another adhesive out there that is made for metal, strong, no silicone, no mess, dries clear, no odor, etc...etc...

I have found what I hope is the answer it's called Locktite GO2 Glue $4.97 1.75 oz size from Menards
I used it on my 1C MW woofers, Easy as can be.

Please provide more details, such as how is it applied? How fast does it cure? How easy is it to apply to the side closest to the basket?

I note it says shatter resistant, not proof, which concerns me.

RandyCroissant

Hi Jesse, true the package does not say shatter proof. It is formulated with polyurethane though which is somewhat flexible when cured, drying time I think over night should do it. The applicator tip included with the glue works perfect for getting above and below the magnet, then wipe with a finger.

F1nut

Ok, thank you. Seems like it's worth a try.

RandyCroissant

I like that it comes in a smaller easy to apply squeeze bottle

verb

What is the viscosity like? I'm assuming it's a bit thicker than regular CA glue.

RandyCroissant

The viscosity is like silicone, one good thing I noticed it does not get stringy.

FestYboy

RandyCroissant wrote: »

The viscosity is like silicone, one good thing I noticed it does not get stringy.

Shorter molecular strands....

tonyp063

Technical data sheet

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/GO2_GLUE_tds.pdf

RandyCroissant

tonyp063 wrote: »

Technical data sheet

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/GO2_GLUE_tds.pdf

Thank You

Malbec

I've used it on a few small woodworking projects just to try out. Easy to use with decent open time and no mess. Not sure about shear strength though. I'll glue up a couple pieces of wood to test. I repaired a plastic dust hood with decent results.

motorcityguy

FWIW, the manufacturer says this adhesive is intended only for applications where at least one of the materials being glued is POROUS. Here's a quote from the Loctite website:

"Loctite Go2 Glue cures by absorption of moisture from the environment; therefore at least one surface must be porous."

aprazer402

The package label says "if bonding two non-porous surfaces (i.e. metal to metal) both surfaces should be wetted with a damp cloth prior to applying adhesive." Is this necessary for gluing these magnets? If so, did you do so, and how did you? Thanks.

pitdogg2

I'd think so as most polyurethane glues need the moisture to activate. All you usually need to do is apply water with a small brush to dampen

RandyCroissant

I did not use any water, as far as I could tell the adhesive cured just fine. I might try it next time though.

RandyCroissant

A little spare time today so I decided to do a strength test with this Loctite GO2 adhesive. For my test I used Three 1/4 inch zinc plated fender washers I chose plated washers to simulate the metal used for the pole piece and basket / magnet mount area.

I cleaned the washers with brake parts cleaner to remove any contamination

Next I glued the washers together with 3 drops of GO2 glue In the areas marked. The reason for two areas is because the instruction say to use a water wipe prior to gluing I saw no difference in strength with this test.

Next I attached a heavy 20 pound brick to the washers as you can see neither glue joint failed.






Randy

msg

Nice, Randy. For another test to see what happens to it when it fails, can you try a forced bend/break of the glue?

PS.
That step ladder looks like it might be difficult to move around now.

RandyCroissant

To add to the above test I was able to break one of the two glue joints by twisting and applying considerable force, however I could not nor could my son break the joint where water was first applied to the washers ( very strong in my opinion)

Happy New Year!!
Randy

msg

And was it the bond or the glue that broke? If the glue, did it snap, or make a slow, bendy break? I think F1 mentioned question about shatter? I saw that bit above where you mentioned it's formulated with polyurethane, which should be somewhat flexible when cured?

I'm really curious about this, because I've got some mods to make. I gotta make a trip to the hardware store. I'll pick up a bottle to try, if they have it.

pitdogg2

Very interesting

delkal

RandyCroissant wrote: »

To add to the above test I was able to break one of the two glue joints by twisting and applying considerable force, however I could not nor could my son break the joint where water was first applied to the washers ( very strong in my opinion)

Happy New Year!!
Randy

Water is the catalyst that activates these types of glues. I bet the bond (without water) would become stronger after sitting a few days even up to a few weeks.

RandyCroissant

Good question msg

msg wrote: »

And was it the bond or the glue that broke? If the glue, did it snap, or make a slow, bendy break? I think F1 mentioned question about shatter? I saw that bit above where you mentioned it's formulated with polyurethane, which should be somewhat flexible when cured?

I'm really curious about this, because I've got some mods to make. I gotta make a trip to the hardware store. I'll pick up a bottle to try, if they have it.

I checked and it was the glue that failed not the glue to metal as you can see.

Randy

pitdogg2

One question.
With many of these types of glue where water is the catalyst, many end up with small micro bubbles and the glue itself expands. Was there any of that with this go2 poly glue?

RandyCroissant

To answer your other question the joint snapped as I twisted as hard as I could.

RandyCroissant

This is the joint where water was used per the instructions, I see no bubbles or expansion.

pitdogg2

Thanks Randy

motorcityguy

I recently had to repair a cracked (pressboard) speaker grill frame, and used this GO2 glue. Because both surfaces were porous, I felt that it was a good choice of adhesives.

I found it easy to work with and quite strong when dry. I liked that it was clear, moderately thick, and did not expand as it dried. For this application I did clamp the parts for 30min (as recommended) to ensure a tight mechanical bond between the broken pieces.

Not clear to me why Loctite recommends against using it on non-porous surfaces, as the OP's testing seems to show a strong bond to metal. For magnet gluing, I think I will stick (haha, pun) to the Loctite PL3 that I wrote-up in a separate thread. It is strongly (haha, another pun) recommended for non-porous surfaces.

msg

I picked some of this up earlier this week out of curiosity, just because I need a decent GP glue, and tested it yesterday on a ceramic mug handle just to see how it works. Ceramic/pottery is tricky to glue as I understand it.

I think I have some old speakers or a ferrite magnet and some fender washers I can mess with to see how this stuff sets up similarly to how it may be used with setting driver magnets? I'm curious too. Nothing against the Loctite Power Grab, but just getting to a point where I'm about to start working on some SDAs.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/go2_glue/overview/Go2-Glue.htm

motorcityguy wrote: »

For magnet gluing, I think I will stick (haha, pun) to the Loctite PL3 that I wrote-up in a separate thread. It is strongly (haha, another pun) recommended for non-porous surfaces.

What's PL3? Link to your write-up?

msg

Thanks for sharing your experience with this, Randy.

RandyCroissant

My pleasure