Monitor 11

My newest Craigslist find! My first peerless polks! These sound sweeet. Cant belive polk didnt sell more of these over the tens.

There a small line in the left tweeter like something leaned against it at one time. Sounds fine to me though. And the right passive has some slight delamination going on at the top.
Monitor 4.6, 5jr, 5, 7, 10, 11. RTA 8TL. RTA 11T. SDA 2B.
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Comments

  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 19,563
    Does the 11" have the big, flat foam-faced PR like the 12 and the LF-14?
    If so, yeah, they don't age too gracefully. I'm not sure it has any acoustic consequences (as opposed to aesthetic), though.

    Here's my erstwhile LF14, e.g.

    10729919005_c06dcb86a5_b.jpgDSC_1150 by Mark Hardy, on Flickr



    The 11 was a bit of an odd duck -- I never knew of anyone who bought a pair when they were new. They may have just been out of step with the evolution of hifi when they came out.
  • Yes it does have the foam face. One is perfect an then there this one
    Monitor 4.6, 5jr, 5, 7, 10, 11. RTA 8TL. RTA 11T. SDA 2B.
  • The tweeter
    Monitor 4.6, 5jr, 5, 7, 10, 11. RTA 8TL. RTA 11T. SDA 2B.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,627
    Yes it does have the foam face. One is perfect an then there this one

    Use Aleen's Tacky glue to secure that.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • Thank you F1! That pair you sold a few months ago were what got me looking for a pair! These rock. Ive been listening all morning. really like the peerless tweeters!
    Monitor 4.6, 5jr, 5, 7, 10, 11. RTA 8TL. RTA 11T. SDA 2B.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,627
    Ah cool, I really hated to sell those, but had no where to use them. You got a fine looking pair, congrats!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • CH46ECH46E Posts: 791
    The tweeter

    I have seen that line on several peerless. I think I have one on the shelf that looks just like yours. I doubt anything got leaned on it. Maybe a manufacturing issue?
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,467
    Only the Polk tweeters had the hole as far as i am aware of. I do not know if Polk burned the hole in the diaphragm or if they asked peerless to do it. Either way the hole was burned into the diaphragm to combat a resonance issue. As far as I remember
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,627
    Polk did it with the tip of a solder iron.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • teekay0007teekay0007 Posts: 2,068
    F1nut wrote: »
    You got a fine looking pair, congrats!


    That's what she said...

    :p

  • scubalabscubalab Posts: 2,456
    edited October 10
    Congrats on the awesome find mn_polk_guy!
    F1nut wrote: »
    Ah cool, I really hated to sell those, but had no where to use them. You got a fine looking pair, congrats!

    I didn't hate you selling those Jesse! B)
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,627
    scubalab wrote: »
    Congrats on the awesome find mn_polk_guy!
    F1nut wrote: »
    Ah cool, I really hated to sell those, but had no where to use them. You got a fine looking pair, congrats!

    I didn't hate you selling those Jesse! B)

    Al, I hope you're enjoying them.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • scubalabscubalab Posts: 2,456
    Don’t have nearly as much time as I’d like to listen to them, but when I do, it’s bliss!
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,627
    scubalab wrote: »
    Don’t have nearly as much time as I’d like to listen to them, but when I do, it’s bliss!

    B)
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • So id like to get rid of the wood bases on these. Would im looking at these

    spikes.https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dss4-sn-satin-nickel-speaker-spike-set-4-pcs--240-719

    Thoughts?
    Monitor 4.6, 5jr, 5, 7, 10, 11. RTA 8TL. RTA 11T. SDA 2B.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,627
    edited October 20
    IIRC, the platform base on those is about 2 inches high. Even then the tweeters are still a bit below ear height, so it would be better to add wood corner blocks to the platform base and install the spikes to the blocks effectively raising the speakers closer to ear height.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • Thanks f1 . Thats the plan, what wood should I use for platforms I figure I can find somthing like an inch thick plus the spikes would give them and extra half inch .

    Also want to do h-nuts. 8-32 looks like the right ones from what I've read. Is clipping them for the speaker opening necessary? what lentgh cap screw should do you guys use?
    Monitor 4.6, 5jr, 5, 7, 10, 11. RTA 8TL. RTA 11T. SDA 2B.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,627
    edited October 21
    I'm not sure we are on the same page. What I'm suggesting is to keep the current platform base and add corner blocks inside the frame. You could use 2 x 2 popular by whatever the length needs to be, which I think is 2 inches. Use Titebond wood glue on the two contact sides and also on the top which mates with the bottom of the cabinet. Clamp them in place using non-maring type clamps and let cure for 24 hours. That will allow for maximum bonding.

    You will likely not have to clip the nuts. 1.25 inch long socket head cap screws work well.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • I did miss that.The wood bases are not in great shape which is why I was going remove them. Also someday want to re-cover these with a nice real wood veneer. After doing crossovers, which Im planing on doing as a winter project.
    Monitor 4.6, 5jr, 5, 7, 10, 11. RTA 8TL. RTA 11T. SDA 2B.
  • I had them open and checked the foam also which was intact and not crumbling, surprisinglyvtatpti7efd1.jpg
    o7si1rsudj6g.jpg
    Monitor 4.6, 5jr, 5, 7, 10, 11. RTA 8TL. RTA 11T. SDA 2B.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,627
    They don't look bad in your pic. Anyway, you can veneer them as well down the road.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • I may try that first and see how it goes. They are chipping along the very bottom, and back corners. I'm just being picky amd thought they would look better if they were placed a little wider than the original base. These are gonna be my fist upgrade/resto project.

    Was there supposed to be any batting behind the tweeters in these guys as you can see in the picture both had it in the bottom under the pr but none up top. Would they benefit feom bh5 or more batting up top?
    Monitor 4.6, 5jr, 5, 7, 10, 11. RTA 8TL. RTA 11T. SDA 2B.
  • FaustinFaustin Posts: 771
    Typically the batting on vintage Polks should be below the tweeters and ending above the passive radiator. So basically behind the 6 1/2 mids.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,627
    I may try that first and see how it goes. They are chipping along the very bottom, and back corners. I'm just being picky amd thought they would look better if they were placed a little wider than the original base. These are gonna be my fist upgrade/resto project.

    Was there supposed to be any batting behind the tweeters in these guys as you can see in the picture both had it in the bottom under the pr but none up top. Would they benefit feom bh5 or more batting up top?

    Get a touch up marker to color in the chips until you work on veneering them.

    Leave the batting exactly where it is.

    I'm absolutely amazed the acoustic foam is still good.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • Wheres the best place to get bulk cap screws?? Home depot, menards and ace all are way to expensive and dont carry more than 10 at a time. I got spikes, h nuts and sonic barrier today. But cant get much anything done without hardware
    Monitor 4.6, 5jr, 5, 7, 10, 11. RTA 8TL. RTA 11T. SDA 2B.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,467
    Fastenal
  • Ill check them out thanks!
    Monitor 4.6, 5jr, 5, 7, 10, 11. RTA 8TL. RTA 11T. SDA 2B.
  • 100 screws for 14 bucks... Fastenal is now going to be a regular stop. All sorts of goodies in there!
    Monitor 4.6, 5jr, 5, 7, 10, 11. RTA 8TL. RTA 11T. SDA 2B.
  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 3,605
    100 screws for 14 bucks...

    wk3ifyhbpgby.png
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