SRS SDA excursion difference?!?
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What, no pugs? Opie needs a pug.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Triump the piss pug.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Exactly. That's why you substitute the 6503 for a 6502/6511 in the SDA-10.
Can you explain "why" you would use a 4 ohm driver in place of an 8 ohm driver? I'm just trying to understand, because in my limited amount of expertise I can give, you could be changing the crossover network as much as a whole octave or more.
That's substantial.
Do NOT get any crazy ideas about the 1C in your possession.....
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Exactly. That's why you substitute the 6503 for a 6502/6511 in the SDA-10.
Can you explain "why" you would use a 4 ohm driver in place of an 8 ohm driver? I'm just trying to understand, because in my limited amount of expertise I can give, you could be changing the crossover network as much as a whole octave or more.
That's substantial.
Do NOT get any crazy ideas about the 1C in your possession.....
He already loaded those up with Cerwin Vega drivers.
You're welcome no charge -
Jerk....
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Exactly. That's why you substitute the 6503 for a 6502/6511 in the SDA-10.
Can you explain "why" you would use a 4 ohm driver in place of an 8 ohm driver? I'm just trying to understand, because in my limited amount of expertise I can give, you could be changing the crossover network as much as a whole octave or more.
That's substantial.
Do NOT get any crazy ideas about the 1C in your possession.....
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Post edited by [Deleted User] on
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For DrNoDegree
Try the little 1.5volt D cell bump test. Unhook all speaker cables & IC. D Cell negative terminal to speaker negative terminal then briefly touch positive to positive and watch the drivers. All should move in the same direction. Very neat trick I learned on here and I've used just to double check my work any time I play with the internal wiring of a speaker.
If they all move in the same direction, you don't have a phase or wiring mix-up. If some move less than others but in the same direction, check speaker impedances then dig into the x-over.Media Room: Parasound JC-5, Cambridge 851N, Schiit Freya, SDA SRS 1.2tl
Game Room: Carver M4.0t, Carver C-4000, Oppo BDP-105, SDA SRS 1.2tl
Bar/Card Room: Carver TFM-55, Carver C-1(BillD), Oppo BDP-93, SDA SRS 3.1
Son's Room: Carver TFM-55, Carver C-1(BillD), Laptop/AQ Dragonfly, SDA SRS 3.1
Bedroom: McIntosh MC150, Cambridge CXN, SDA 2Btl
Outdoor Pool Area: Yamaha R-N803 with four Polk Atrium 6
HT: Polk RTi A9s, CSi-A6, RT-65, RTi-A3's, Marantz SR5012, XPA3, UDP-203, Epson 5040UB -
For DrNoDegree
Try the little 1.5volt D cell bump test. Unhook all speaker cables & IC. D Cell negative terminal to speaker negative terminal then briefly touch positive to positive and watch the drivers. All should move in the same direction. .
If they all move in the same direction, you don't have a phase or wiring mix-up. .
This is true, but would like to add that the drivers need to move forward out of the cabinet when the correct polarity on the battery and the speaker terminals are connected. Most important, all drivers need to move forward.
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For DrNoDegree
Try the little 1.5volt D cell bump test. Unhook all speaker cables & IC. D Cell negative terminal to speaker negative terminal then briefly touch positive to positive and watch the drivers. All should move in the same direction. Very neat trick I learned on here and I've used just to double check my work any time I play with the internal wiring of a speaker.
If they all move in the same direction, you don't have a phase or wiring mix-up. If some move less than others but in the same direction, check speaker impedances then dig into the x-over.
I use a partially worn out AA cell. A D-cell can pack a lot of punch to bottom a driver or drivers which is bad. A hack for this if you don't have any wire is to use a short allen (hex) key to complete the circuit. Most terminals have about the same spacing. I found that you can put the (+) side of the battery on one terminal and the nipple keeps it from sliding. Their is an allen key size (I think for metric and standard) that will just slide into the other terminal and will have enough reach to touch the (-) side of the battery.
Do NOT hold the connection for more than a second or too, just tap it briefly to check for the direction of cone movement.
Another option to check total polarity of the system is to play a mono source. When in the right position according to the SDA setup chart, and no toe in of the speakers, it should sound like the sound is coming from a single center channel speaker with a razor sharp pin point source. -
Wait I'm confused all batteries aaa, aa,c and d are all 1.5volt. A 9volt would be different.
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Wait I'm confused all batteries aaa, aa,c and d are all 1.5volt. A 9volt would be different.
AAA has lower amperage than AA, AA has lower amperage than C, C has lower amperage than D. -
I used a 9 volt on my 1.2s as a d cell didn't move all the drivers enough for these old eyes to be sure. As was mentioned just a quick touch to confirm. In my case I had a pair of drivers on one speaker that were wired backwards.
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mlistens03 wrote: »
There's not a big difference in the way they discharge Micah. There is however a big difference in the mAh storage capacity but still 1.5v.
I understood the 9v was better at this test. -
mlistens03 wrote: »
There's not a big difference in the way they discharge Micah. There is however a big difference in the mAh storage capacity but still 1.5v.
I understood the 9v was better at this test.
But since it has more mAh storage capacity, could it not discharge faster while putting out more power?
AFAIK, car batteries can produce 12 volts at say 20-30 amps for extended periods of time, or you can produce something crazy like 300 amps at 12 volts for a very short time. Couldn’t a AAA, AA, C or D battery do the same?
I don’t really know, and I’m not trying to argue, I’m just asking. -
I always used a 9volt battery because I have snap on top caps from either used garage door opener x-mitters or some like device. It snaps on and all you do is just extend the leads for ease of use. No sliding leads or frustrating messing around keeping leads where you want them. Another bi-product if you add a pieo noise maker in series you can make an easy continuity tester for other things.2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E
H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-
Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc -
It can only put out so many milliamps per hour Micah. So no they do not have the ability to discharge like that. Once they drop below a certain threshold that even drops less. In other words if the battery has been used it cannot put out the same discharge as new.
I have noticed through my battery tester i use that when your remote batteries go bad it is usually only one that has dropped that threshold. Put a new battery in and one of the others will drop quick. That is why you change all batteries even though only one is "bad" their really all bad.
http://www.techlib.com/reference/batteries.html -
I guess the last time I did a check was with my 1C's and a used AA was more than enough to get things moving well. Remember using a good C-cell on good 12" sub once and hearing it clack as the voice coil bottomed out. From then on I used AA's for that type of testing. Thinking about it now the sub could have been a 4Ω sub. That speaker impedance would make some difference. I view the drain rate of the AA as safer.
I rarely use a battery any more though, and if I am demoing speakers I use Phil Collins, "Take Me Home" from the 12"ers CD. It has some very tight high impact bass drum on it. The speakers should move out. There are probably some other good tracks to test with too. -
In your video, you seem to focus the attention more on the right-side drivers of the right speaker, and also the right-side drivers of the left speaker.
The right-side drivers of the right speaker are the dimensional drivers, and the right-side drivers of the left speaker are the stereo drivers.
I'm not well versed in that particular SDA-SRS speaker but, correct me if I'm wrong, I assume they operate similarly where the dimensional drivers handle the bass below 150Hz?
Edited to include: Also the out of phase signal for the opposite speaker, but I was focusing more on the bass signals.
Maybe that's what you're seeing....but not discounting what others suggested in regards to polarity and leaks.
If I play test tones on my pair, all the drivers move approximately the same amount, whether dimensional or the stereo drivers.
Since it is low passed at about 150 hz, they all get approx, the same amount of bass signal.
i will try a test tone and see if the discrepancy still exists...
