CSi A6 lacking punch it once had
Comments
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Please explain TBH? I’ve seen that in several of your posts - cluelessSamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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iSayBoourns wrote: »Manually change those settings, why do you keep letting the receiver do it ?
That’s not the point. The point is where it did set things and where it sets things now. To me that’s a pretty clear indication something wrong is happening. As I’ve mentioned a couple times already, manually setting things lower doesn’t make things better and doesn’t make things sound as good as they once did or how the large CSiA6 is supposed to sound.
How dare you. My attitude was to try and help you. How you twist that around is just like somebody caught. I suggested hooking that center channel speaker of yours to a main speaker wire. That would've proved to all of us, the speaker was fine all the time. SIMPLE deduction method that I've done for 40 years.
What does your comment in that quote above tell me?
You didn't say the tweeter was still loud and clear...did you?
Another member mentioned twice about your tweeter probably being a problem to the whole speaker too. I didn't read a response from you that the tweeter was loud and clear. I haven't re-read the whole thread, my dinner is about ready.
No, your attitude was to insult me (calling this the dumbest thread) and insinuate that I’m just scamming parts. So, how dare YOU.
I’m no where an expert on this stuff, so I came to the forums for help. I sure hope you find yourself seeking help on a forum for a subject you’re not familiar with and run into the same accusations.
You suggested swapping the center for a main. Which I already answered twice that I’ve done so already on the first page. It did not improve things, which led me to still believe the speaker remained to be the issue.
I didn’t say anything about a tweeter. So why would you accuse me wanting another tweeter?
Another poster didn’t specifically say my tweeter was bad. He said tweeters are typically what go bad first.
For the record. Nothing sounds wrong at all with the tweeter. -
Please explain TBH? I’ve seen that in several of your posts - clueless
TBH = To be honest... -
We have had multiple people, myself included, explain to you how your AVR is not capable of doing what you are trying to get it to do. YOU NEED A BETTER ONE, PERIOD!!!!The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
iSayBoourns wrote: »No, your attitude was to insult me (calling this the dumbest thread) and insinuate that I’m just scamming parts. So, how dare YOU.
Nowhere did Tony say anything about this being the "dumbest thread", those are your words, not his.
Nor did he say anything about you "scamming parts".
Where are you getting this stuff from? -
Nowhere did Tony say anything about this being the "dumbest thread", those are your words, not his.
Nor did he say anything about you "scamming parts".
Where are you getting this stuff from?
Tony used the phrase "unbelievable...thread".
As far as the tweeter, he said this: "Now it seems the tweeter isn't working. You want Polk Audio to send you a tweeter now?"
Disclaimer: I am only pointing out where OP is "getting this stuff from". I am not stating that the phrases "dumbest thread" and "unbelievable...thread" have the same meaning. I also am not stating that "You want Polk Audio to send you a tweeter now?" is an accusation of "scamming parts".
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Thanks for that insight.
My unsolicited advice to the OP is that when you are making accusatory statements, to reference verbatim quotes only. -
nooshinjohn wrote: »We have had multiple people, myself included, explain to you how your AVR is not capable of doing what you are trying to get it to do. YOU NEED A BETTER ONE, PERIOD!!!!
I find it extremely hard to believe an RZ series Onkyo can’t handle 5 speakers. It was an $1800+ (Canadian) receiver. Which is part of their top end. -
One more question, I can't stop trying to help you. That's just how I am.
Do you have the owners' manual to that beautiful receiver?Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
Logic dictates that since the center was working before you installed the A3's, ran the calibration program, replaced the A6 crossover and drivers that the problem is with the AVR. You need to borrow someone's AVR to verify if yours is the problem or not.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Logic dictates that since the center was working before you installed the A3's, ran the calibration program, replaced the A6 crossover and drivers that the problem is with the AVR. You need to borrow someone's AVR to verify yours is the problem.
I agree, and that’s just about the only thing I haven’t gotten around to testing yet, but will be attempting as soon as I can get my hands on another receiver. -
iSayBoourns wrote: »Logic dictates that since the center was working before you installed the A3's, ran the calibration program, replaced the A6 crossover and drivers that the problem is with the AVR. You need to borrow someone's AVR to verify yours is the problem.
I agree, and that’s just about the only thing I haven’t gotten around to testing yet, but will be attempting as soon as I can get my hands on another receiver.
Ok, great. Keep us posted.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Here's a page with a lot of links to downloads that fix TX-RZ810 problems.
https://www.intl.onkyo.com/support/firmware/tx-rz810.html
I'm sure we all, including Polk Audio, still hope you get your audio problems fixed or replaced.Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
Running a 7.2 with a Onkyo same rating as yours and It drives my Rear and Side surrounds effortlessly Rti A3's and RtiA5's, front soundstage RtiA9s and a CSIA6 center like yours, the trick is I have put the preouts to use and a Parasound A31 Halo provides the power. I also run dual subs, do yourself a favor and amp up your front soundstage that CSIA6 deserves some good clean power. You have had some good advice thrown your way use it.Post edited by gudnoyez onHome Theater
Parasound Halo A 31 OnkyoTX-NR838 Sony XBR55X850B 55" 4K RtiA9 Fronts CsiA6 Center RtiA3 Rears FxiA6 Side Surrounds Dual Psw 111's Oppo 105D Signal Ultra Speaker Cables & IC's Signal Magic Power Cable Technics SL Q300 Panamax MR4300 Audioquest Chocolate HDMI Cables Audioquest Forest USB Cable
2 Channel
Adcom 555II Vincent SA-T1 Marantz SA 15S2 Denon DR-M11 Clearaudio Bluemotion SDA 2.3tl's (Z) edition MIT Terminator II Speaker Cables & IC's Adcom 545II Adcom Gtp-450 Marantz CD5004 Technics M245X SDA 2B's, SDA CRS+
Stuff for the Head
JD LABS C5 Headphone Amplifier, Sennheiser HD 598, Polk Audio Buckle, Polk Audio Hinge, Velodyne vPulse, Bose IE2, Sennheiser CX 200 Street II, Sennheiser MX 365
Shower & Off the beaten path Rigs
Polk Audio Boom Swimmer, Polk Audio Urchin
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@iSayBoourns, once again, did you try it without the rear speakers? You never seemed to reply. Sorry if I did miss it.
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iSayBoourns wrote: »nooshinjohn wrote: »We have had multiple people, myself included, explain to you how your AVR is not capable of doing what you are trying to get it to do. YOU NEED A BETTER ONE, PERIOD!!!!
I find it extremely hard to believe an RZ series Onkyo can’t handle 5 speakers. It was an $1800+ (Canadian) receiver. Which is part of their top end.
Many like yours can and do run 5-7 channels. When the spec's say 130 x whatever 5 or 7 channels the manufacturers fail to tell you that is for only 2 channels. When you run the full set up of 5 to 7 speakers your AVR will only be putting out about 70 to 80 watts per channel. Many can be much less down to 40-50 wpc. So the AVR can clip the signal very easily. That clipped signal can and will very easily fry speakers. I know this is not the problem you're having but I'm just trying to help you understand that the AVR can very easily be the problem. It can be very hard to convey information across the internet at times so please try to understand that we are doing our best to get to the bottom of the problem. -
Earlier this thread slid into the gutter.
I’ve re-read every post. I think you haven’t tried just the CC or the CC and your sub XO’d between 40(?) & 80. BTW: music & vocal “punch” is between 100 & ~250 hz
* set manually
Forgive my ignorance. Can you set your AVR as above w/out having to disconnect anything?
Sidenote one: the RTi A3, impedance wise, is rather demanding* between 50 & 200 hz. That may explain “the change” about the time you added them. The A6 isn’t the easiest load either.
* 4 ohms
Sidenote two: I studied your AVR’s specs & bottom line: you’re trying to power a vintage Caddy w/a 2 liter engine in spite of turbo charger!
While 130 WPC X 2 (L/R!) looks good, as others have pointed out, X 5 is down into the double digits. I saw 4 ohm specs and that’s more OK than most, its not crazy driving anything under 6 ohms. IME from helping others by merely but mostly watching/reading what others wrote that I would say, or writing the same my self... ...see the bold above.
Sidenote three: if you’ll view my post signature in desktop or full site mode you’ll count a total of 6 amplifiers* driving 5 channels plus 5 subs, 4 dedicated to the LR & surrounds. Extreme(?) to be sure, some might say “lunatic fringe,” but nobody, including my wife, complains about “no punch” or distortion.
Sidenote four: Can I declare dibs on your CC drivers if Polk didn’t require returning them?
Best to ya,Post edited by gp4jesus onSamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
