Polk sda 2 upgrade and general questions
AUDI0
Posts: 10
Scored these off the local classifieds for $50 and as always the patch cord was missing.
Here are my questions
- Does anybody have a schematic for the tweeter upgrade
- Is the tweeter upgrade a direct fit with no cutting of the cabinet
- How do you make a patch cord yourself? Whats pos/neg
Here are my questions
- Does anybody have a schematic for the tweeter upgrade
- Is the tweeter upgrade a direct fit with no cutting of the cabinet
- How do you make a patch cord yourself? Whats pos/neg
Comments
-
-
Schematics are posted at the top of the page.
Drop in replacement.
I already told you, just the pin carries the signal.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Ran Into an issue started taking them apart as 1 for sure has something loose in it. Like a unglued cap or something. Found out there about 200 serial numbers apart and that was enough for them to use different labels on the back.
Is that an issue? -
Look the fonts different. So is one speaker a different Run? Guess I'm going to have to compare the guts of both. The important thing is I got a left and right speaker.
-
Polk never sold them with consecutive serial numbers, so no worries.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I know one thing. All that dust on the binding posts really helps your speaker wire/spade/banana get a real good connection. Widens the sound stage and solidifies the center image like you would not believe.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
I know one thing. All that dust on the binding posts really helps your speaker wire/spade/banana get a real good connection. Widens the sound stage and solidifies the center image like you would not believe.
Let's compare......
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Ok I have the speakers completly apart. Looking at spending about $100 on caps.
Solen a good choice? -
Solen is not a good choice, a bit rough around the edges. Sonicap Gen I or Clarity CSA work best in the SDA's.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
ANY film cap is a terrific choice compared to the old electrolytics, and the Mylar that are in there right now. Compared to the existing caps, you're gonna love the Solens.Looking at spending about $100 on caps.
Solen a good choice?
I've taken crap for using Dayton and ERSE. I like 'em just fine.
-
Solen can be very shrill in the high pass.
-
Ok I have the speakers completly apart. Looking at spending about $100 on caps.
Solen a good choice?Solen is not a good choice, a bit rough around the edges. Sonicap Gen I or Clarity CSA work best in the SDA's.Solen can be very shrill in the high pass.ANY film cap is a terrific choice compared to the old electrolytics, and the Mylar that are in there right now. Compared to the existing caps, you're gonna love the Solens.
I've taken crap for using Dayton and ERSE. I like 'em just fine.
To summarize, Sonicap Gen I or Clarity CSA are the preferred caps all around, but many only use them in the high pass for cost savings, along with mills resistors. Solen have been a preferred cost saving cap for the low pass. Others have been used. All will be an upgrade over the old electrolytics. I would recommend spending the extra for the high pass caps. This should be close to your budget.
You would only need one 12 µF cap per speaker for the high pass, so spending more on the high pass will not be that painfull. You can order RD0-194 replacement tweeters for $50 each. Mention you are a forum member for free shipping.
If you can increase your budget some more, for the same $50 you could get the RD0-198 tweeters, which some consider a slightly better. This would require getting an additional 5.8 µF cap for each speaker. This would increase the cost, but be value added in the long run. See the schematic for the CRS+ SL3000mod in the schematics for this. The CRS+ and SDA2 have the same crossover in the later pin blade models. -
I am mighty fond of the Clarity CSA's.
-
Solen's aren't the best choice, but if you are really on a hard budget, they are better than the original caps in there now.
Clarity caps aren't that much more and definitely are smoother and have a slightly more cohesive sound.
Mills resistors make a huge difference as well, don't skimp there.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
If you want to do a conservative upgrade, go Clarity PX for both the high pass and low pass. Cost you a little more, but way better than Solen. just my 2 cents.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
So all in its about $200. Including cdn to USA exchange and shipping.
Kind of thinking about this. It's expensive. Was going to spend that kind of money on the driver upgrade. -
Driver upgrade?? Or tweeter?
-
Including cdn to USA exchange and shipping.
You can select the currency for different countries at the top of their page. The price in US dollars will always be less the the price in Canadian dollars.
For example the CSA 12uF is $13.46 US, not $18.50. The actual total of what you have listed is $116.54 in US dollars.Kind of thinking about this. It's expensive.
I've spent considerably more than your total on a single capacitor.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Ok I made it all fit. Location on the points of the resistor were changed but it all fits. The 750pf cap was left in place also the thermoresistor.
-
I think you should research how others here have done their crossovers because what you've got there isn't how to do it.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Ran then through a phase test 1 driver was out of phase. Looks like we have a replacement driver. The 6510 was in place of the right speaker in the left side. Looks like I'm calling polk tomorrow. This is when you really start to invested in something.Post edited by [Deleted User] on
-
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
[quote="AUDI0;c-2430124"Ran then through a phase test 1 driver was out of phase. Looks like we have a replacement driver. The 6510 was in place of the right speaker in the left side. Looks like I'm calling polk tomorrow. This is when you really start to invested in something.[/quote]
If I'm not mistaken, the speakers you posted a pic of are the SDA 2A, and the correct drivers are the 6510.
Also, the black wire going to the woofer is the positive wire. Purely speculation, but could be your phase issue.Post edited by [Deleted User] on -
Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
F*ck ran then through a phase test 1 driver was out of phase. Looks like we have a replacement driver. The 6510 was in place of the right speaker in the left side. Looks like I'm calling polk tomorrow. This is when you really start to invested in something.
If I'm not mistaken, the speakers you posted a pic of are the SDA 2A, and the correct drivers are the 6510.
Also, the black wire going to the woofer is the positive wire. Purely speculation, but could be your phase issue.
They're 2BsHome Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
westmassguy wrote: »F*ck ran then through a phase test 1 driver was out of phase. Looks like we have a replacement driver. The 6510 was in place of the right speaker in the left side. Looks like I'm calling polk tomorrow. This is when you really start to invested in something.
If I'm not mistaken, the speakers you posted a pic of are the SDA 2A, and the correct drivers are the 6510.
Also, the black wire going to the woofer is the positive wire. Purely speculation, but could be your phase issue.
They're 2Bs
Should his label on the rear have a "B" sticker on it? -
Sorry Dave....I overlooked the pin-blade. My mistake.
-
Found this where the 6503 should be in a phase test. It's a 6510 and yes the wires were backwards
So in total I got
2 x 6511
1 x 6503
1 x 6510
-
Buy 2 new 6503's if you cannot locate a good used one. the new MW6503 will need to have the rubber trimmed around the screw hole or you will ruin the surround by tightening a screw on top of the rubber.Post edited by pitdogg2 on
-
So parts ordered but gotta wait 4 weeks. Got 2 x mw-6503 ordered and I also ordered 2 x rd0-194
Tweeters.
I was listening to the speakers as is right now and was wondering what frequencys does the dimension driver play going from speaker to speaker?
