Upgrading Crossovers on POLK SDA 2.3 - help ordering parts

prosuite
prosuite Posts: 23
edited February 2018 in Vintage Speakers
Hi Guys,

I have owned these speakers for about 5 years and sadly they have never worked quite right. I bought these after owning a pair of SDA CRS's and they sound allot better. I am quite knowledgeable with speaker (other than changing caps, etc) and have narrowed the problem down to the crossovers since the high-end is the issue. I know this could be the polyswitch but i would like to swap out the whole thing.
Im interested in ordering high-quality 'Sonic-caps' online. Problem is i don't know enough about these to know what is what. Im trying to get a list of what I'm replacing and am hoping you guys can help with that.

Please note, I would really like to keep these specs exactly the same as what is in there presently since I'm worried that the sound that I love will be altered by changing the specs of the capacitors with other specs.

The numbering on the caps are:

BE2200-A. (Maybe its a 12µF according to the below correspondence? This is the Big Yellow Cap)
TI 4.4 J100V (smaller Yellow one - This may be the problematic, protection poly switch I have read about that can be bypassed with a .5ohm resistor. Do you know? )
T.i. 12uf 50V NP. K85ºc (blue cap near large white connector)
T.I. 40uf 50v NP K85ºc (blue cap near SMALL white connector)
T.I. 20uf 50VNP 11K (blue cap beside Large Yellow Cap- Closest to red coils)
T.I. 5.8 UF 50VNP (blue cap beside large yellow cap pn the other side without red coils)

Do you think I need resistors??
SAN 1000 UF 50% 100V (these are black)
33 Ohm 10% 5W (white blocks - resistors maybe?)

Could someone put tell me exactly what to buy from Soniccap?

Thanks guys,

Tim
Post edited by [Deleted User] on
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Comments

  • dkfreebird
    dkfreebird Posts: 1,186
    edited February 2018
    Click on this link and use the pull down menu to find your speakers.
    http://www.gimpod.com/

    I almost forgot,welcome to Club Polk.Looks like you've been here awhile. :o
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    Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    Never worked right, but you love the sound???

    BE2200-A is the model number for the 2.3 crossover.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    Polyswitches are not caps.
    They are thermistor's and can be blue or beige in color.
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  • prosuite
    prosuite Posts: 23
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Polyswitches are not caps.
    They are thermistor's and can be blue or beige in color.

    Thanks,
    Do these look like caps? Maybe I should just start by replacing or removing those and see where I'm at.
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  • prosuite
    prosuite Posts: 23
    F1nut wrote: »
    Never worked right, but you love the sound???

    BE2200-A is the model number for the 2.3 crossover.



    I should say that they did work properly (I believe) for a short time but then seemed to be malfunctioning in the high-end department shortly there after.
    I had the CRS versions first so I know the sound I'm after. Playing with the electronics of them makes me nervous.
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  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    Yes. They have a propensity for failure. Replace with a .5 ohm resistor or for testing you can jumper it.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited February 2018
    prosuite wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Polyswitches are not caps.
    They are thermistor's and can be blue or beige in color.

    Thanks,
    Do these look like caps? Maybe I should just start by replacing or removing those and see where I'm at.

    https://www.parts-express.com/te-connectivity-raychem-rxef110-110a-polyswitch-speaker-protector--071-262

    https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/2/2/6/6/8/9/91137.jpg


    Two pictures of either beige or blue. Blue is small square by resistor.

    Some have just twisted them so both legs touch to bypass to test if they are the problem. It is not ideal and sometimes there is not enough legs to twist.

    proceed with caution
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  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,582
    prosuite wrote: »

    Thanks,
    Do these look like caps?

    No they look like a flat M&M (sorry I'm hungry)

    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)

    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
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  • prosuite
    prosuite Posts: 23
    Hey Guys,

    so, I got the following values from sonic craft.

    CAPS
    2x 4.4uF
    2x 5.8uF
    4x 12uF
    6x 20uF

    resistors
    2x 0.5 Ohm
    2x 6.2 Ohm
    2x 22.5 Ohm http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/225-ohm-vishay-mills-mra-12-p-4692
    4x 33 Ohm

    Do these check out to anyone? Problem is, I don't have a lick of knowledge about these things. One of these 12uf caps is $590 bux, yikes!
    when I go to order them there are a variety of different values after them (450 VDC, etc) and Im not sure whats what. can anyone help?
    Im going to have to educate myself further with this when I have time.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    Sonicap gen 1 200 volt is what you need so 4 x 23.51=94.04 for the 12uf caps

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  • prosuite
    prosuite Posts: 23
    Thanks for the information Pitdogg2.
    I take that to mean I should buy 200 volt for all caps listed above? Ill order some up and fire up the iron. Looking forward to hearing these again.

    TIm
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    Sonicap Gen I 200V for all the caps required..
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • prosuite
    prosuite Posts: 23
    khqmfzawofoy.png
    Yikes, This **** is expensive.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    well worth it.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    prosuite wrote: »
    khqmfzawofoy.png
    Yikes, This **** is expensive.

    Put in perspective, there are single caps that cost more than your total. :)
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,582
    edited February 2018
    prosuite wrote: »
    Yikes, This **** is expensive.

    Not as much as a divorce... But close.
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)

    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
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  • Rrusse11
    Rrusse11 Posts: 116
    And, judging from the extra size of the Sonicaps, it would appear that it makes the rebuild easier if you buy a pair of Gimpod's boards as well.
    SDA SRS 2.3s
    Pair of Carver TFM 35s
    Carver C-1 Preamp
    CAL Icon MkII CD
    RTA 12s, need major work
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  • Faustin
    Faustin Posts: 1,149
    If you are not sure that you are up to the task in regards to rebuiding the crossovers, perhaps you sould have someone do it for you. Wetsmassguy (Polk forum member) has done hundreds of crossovers for Polkies. You know what the parts cost so maybe it would be worth it to pay to have them done right and not have to worry about them not working properly. Just a thought.
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  • prosuite
    prosuite Posts: 23
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    prosuite wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Polyswitches are not caps.
    They are thermistor's and can be blue or beige in color.

    Thanks,
    Do these look like caps? Maybe I should just start by replacing or removing those and see where I'm at.

    https://www.parts-express.com/te-connectivity-raychem-rxef110-110a-polyswitch-speaker-protector--071-262

    https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/2/2/6/6/8/9/91137.jpg


    Two pictures of either beige or blue. Blue is small square by resistor.

    Some have just twisted them so both legs touch to bypass to test if they are the problem. It is not ideal and sometimes there is not enough legs to twist.

    proceed with caution

    Thanks for the information. Mine are definitely the small tan/brown disc looking ones. I guess you could just take them right output I'dd rather just replace them since I think they did actually save these speakers from an amp that 'blew' on me and started screeching.
    Are the ones in the link you sent me exactly what I need?
    Im told i can also get a .5ohm resistor if i choose to take it out completely?

    Thanks


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  • prosuite
    prosuite Posts: 23
    I won't lie, Im thinking of doing a partial upgrade and doing the rest later. I can't afford 400 all at once. I also need the interconnect cable that allows you to hook these up to non-common ground amps. And I have to do away with the 'slot and pin' interconnect cables since they are not a good design. I still have to figure out what I would like to do there.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited February 2018
    prosuite wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    prosuite wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Polyswitches are not caps.
    They are thermistor's and can be blue or beige in color.

    Thanks,
    Do these look like caps? Maybe I should just start by replacing or removing those and see where I'm at.

    https://www.parts-express.com/te-connectivity-raychem-rxef110-110a-polyswitch-speaker-protector--071-262

    https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/2/2/6/6/8/9/91137.jpg


    Two pictures of either beige or blue. Blue is small square by resistor.

    Some have just twisted them so both legs touch to bypass to test if they are the problem. It is not ideal and sometimes there is not enough legs to twist.

    proceed with caution

    Thanks for the information. Mine are definitely the small tan/brown disc looking ones. I guess you could just take them right output I'dd rather just replace them since I think they did actually save these speakers from an amp that 'blew' on me and started screeching.
    Are the ones in the link you sent me exactly what I need?
    Im told i can also get a .5ohm resistor if i choose to take it out completely?

    Thanks


    No they are just representing the looks that Polk used. Those only protect the tweeters and just barely. The spike a failing amp could send can still make it to the tweeters in some cases. Those are more trouble than they are worth. If you must then call Polk customer service they in the past sent replacements free of charge. If not then ask them for the value to order your own.

    I'd ditch them myself.
    Yes we replace them with a .5 ohm mills resistor
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    Polyswitches won't block DC or prevent a clipped signal from taking out your tweeters. Neither will a fuse for that matter.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
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  • Rrusse11
    Rrusse11 Posts: 116
    westmassguy wrote: »
    Polyswitches won't block DC or prevent a clipped signal from taking out your tweeters. Neither will a fuse for that matter.

    Gimpod, and pittdogg, gives the advice that one can either jump the polyswitch, or, as per above,replace it with a resistor. Does the addition of a resistor offer any protection?

    'Scuse my ignorance here, but what does it do in place of the Polyswitch?
    SDA SRS 2.3s
    Pair of Carver TFM 35s
    Carver C-1 Preamp
    CAL Icon MkII CD
    RTA 12s, need major work
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    No protection and with quality power is not needed or wanted. At the time Polk thought it was a good idea since people might try driving the SDA's with less than stellar gear like low powered receivers.

    The .5ohm resistor is used to compensate for the resistance of the polyswitch.

    All of this info has been covered a thousand times on here, try the search function.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Rrusse11
    Rrusse11 Posts: 116

    "The .5ohm resistor is used to compensate for the resistance of the polyswitch."

    Thank you.
    SDA SRS 2.3s
    Pair of Carver TFM 35s
    Carver C-1 Preamp
    CAL Icon MkII CD
    RTA 12s, need major work
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  • prosuite
    prosuite Posts: 23
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    prosuite wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    prosuite wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Polyswitches are not caps.
    They are thermistor's and can be blue or beige in color.

    Thanks,
    Do these look like caps? Maybe I should just start by replacing or removing those and see where I'm at.

    https://www.parts-express.com/te-connectivity-raychem-rxef110-110a-polyswitch-speaker-protector--071-262

    https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/2/2/6/6/8/9/91137.jpg


    Two pictures of either beige or blue. Blue is small square by resistor.

    Some have just twisted them so both legs touch to bypass to test if they are the problem. It is not ideal and sometimes there is not enough legs to twist.

    proceed with caution

    Thanks for the information. Mine are definitely the small tan/brown disc looking ones. I guess you could just take them right output I'dd rather just replace them since I think they did actually save these speakers from an amp that 'blew' on me and started screeching.
    Are the ones in the link you sent me exactly what I need?
    Im told i can also get a .5ohm resistor if i choose to take it out completely?

    Thanks


    No they are just representing the looks that Polk used. Those only protect the tweeters and just barely. The spike a failing amp could send can still make it to the tweeters in some cases. Those are more trouble than they are worth. If you must then call Polk customer service they in the past sent replacements free of charge. If not then ask them for the value to order your own.

    I'd ditch them myself.
    Yes we replace them with a .5 ohm mills resistor



    Will This baby do from soniccraft - 0.47 Ohm Mills MRA-5

    excuse my ignorance. I plan on educating myself further in the future.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    That will work, but it would be better to use one with a higher wattage rating.

    http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/05-ohm-mills-mra-12-p-645
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Manticore
    Manticore Posts: 408
    edited February 2018
    /\/\/\That part on soniccraft has been out of stock for months now.
    Denon AVR X4200W
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    LG 4kBR - UP970
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    "The early Klingon gets the Gagh"
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    I didn't see that, so use this one.

    http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/047-ohm-mills-mra-10-p-3594
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • kcoc321
    kcoc321 Posts: 1,788
    Parts connex has delund at 52% off.
    http://www.partsconnexion.com/resistors_duelund.html
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