Repair or replace RTA12s

5000lbMan
5000lbMan Posts: 5
in Speakers
I have a pair of RTA12 that I've had since around 1979. Thought tweeter had blown. They're the top hat drivers, so I switched them, changed fuse, still only mids and bass, no tweetage. Replaced tweeter with new one from ebay. No tweetage. Question is whether to repair, by DHS Speaker Service, which I favor or buy a pair of Polk Audio LSiM 707. Equipment is Hafler 220 and 100 pre-amp, Rega Planar II w/ Orotofon blue and Yamaha CD-C600BL 5-Disc CD? Please share you views. I'm in Hawaii so cannot demo the LSiM 707s here.
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Comments

  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    Verify the poly switch is open before condemning the tweet.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,638
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Verify the poly switch is open before condemning the tweet.

    Silly boy he states he changed the fuse therefore there is no polyswitch >:):p

    I'd also clean the fuse holder very well and verify that the wiring to the fuse block had not corroded so much that it can't pass a signal. It's been known to happen
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  • codycatalist
    codycatalist Posts: 2,662
    Repair is my vote.
    Just a dude doing dude-ly things

    "Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
    " I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
    "Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
    "Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
    "Audiophiles are the male equivalent of cat ladies." - Audiokarma Member
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  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    edited October 2017
    Missed that! My bad. That's what happens when you skim...

    But I'm with Cody, fix 'em
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  • Faustin
    Faustin Posts: 1,149
    Fix them.
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  • Easy Runnin
    Easy Runnin Posts: 501
    edited October 2017
    Blown resistor?
    HT- Samsung PN50B860/Integra DTR 30.3/Rt55 Fronts
    Rt35i Surrounds/Cs1000p Center/SVS BP1000 Sub
    2CH - B&K MC-101 pre/B&K EX-442 amp/NAD 2400 amp
    Polk SDA1C, Polk Monitor 7, New Large Advents and Polk RTA 8T
    BR - Yamaha CR800/Polk monitor 5
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,638
    Easy Runnin wrote: »
    Blown resistor?

    Very well could be, but I think that would be very visible. OP take a picture and post it. We might be able to spot something.

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  • 5000lbMan
    5000lbMan Posts: 5
    pitdogg2 wrote: »

    Very well could be, but I think that would be very visible. OP take a picture and post it. We might be able to spot something.

    Will do this tomorrow. Thanks!
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  • 5000lbMan
    5000lbMan Posts: 5
    Well, I went over the mechanical issues one more time. Visually, nothing looked out of place, but I wasn't sure the solder had flowed on the tweeter hot lead. Resoldered tweeter wires with hot iron and good flow. Cleaned fuse and fuse holder with wire brush; sprayed with a dab of CRC. Resoldered fuse holder wires as they looked a bit corroded. Held breath, crossed fingers and plugged in. Put on second Traffic album. Kabaaam! Tweetage restored. Pays to go slowly and carefully. I think it was most likely the hot wire to the tweeter which was on but looked like a cold joint. Have to say, Dave at DHS was very helpful and, when I only have one tuition to pay, I may have him upgrade them with new caps and resistors. For now, it's 1979 all over again, baby! Thanks for all the responses. I truly appreciate them.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,638
    That's great to hear. I would of crimped gold plated faston to the wires instead of soldering to the tweeter. Just my personal preference.
    Great job tracking it down
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  • 5000lbMan
    5000lbMan Posts: 5
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    That's great to hear. I would of crimped gold plated faston to the wires instead of soldering to the tweeter. Just my personal preference.
    Great job tracking it down

    Would have been a good solution if I had the faston connectors, but did not think of it beforehand. Thanks.
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