problem with polk audio dra 12
fireserzh
Posts: 22
Hey. I bought a pair of speakers POLK AUDIO DRA 12. there was a problem with crossovers. Someone did not do a professional job with a soldering iron and now do not work tweeters. I ask you to send a diagram or photos of the correct crossover board.
Best Answers
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I'll grab pics of my stock RTA boards in a bit for comparison.
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excellent. now everything is visible. Thank you
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I believe this one is closest to what you have.
https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/4/6/7/2/8/18712.pdf
It looks to me that you just need to remove the jumper wires (white and blue short pieces) then bring black back to the fuse block. It doesn't appear the other side has been tampered with except for the jumper wire.
This is the best I can give with the limited knowledge I have. I.E. it's not in front of me
Answers
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There is no such model. How about you post some photos of what you have.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
on the crossover board it is written POLK AUDIO DRA 12 . what exactly is the model I do not know. I send photos
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It clearly says RTA 12 on the crossover board, so your model is the RTA 12.
In your 3rd and 4th photos it appears one lead on the fuse is broken. The cause is the previous owner over drove their amp resulting in enough heat to melt the solder joint.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I also ask you to send either a diagram or photos where it is seen how correctly it should be that I am corrected on my crossovers. here is another photo
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You need to solder the leads back onto the fuse block.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I have blown a fuse or two in the day........but cranking it up till the solder melts sounds awesome!
Wish I was there to hear it (his speakers, not mine) -
thanks for answers . I need photos of the bottom of the crossover board with the correct location of the contacts so I can fix it on my own
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thanks for answers . I need photos of the bottom of the crossover board with the correct location of the contacts so I can fix it on my own
Then you need someone else to do the work. You have two speakers correct? Do both have the same problem? If not then your picture is before your eyes. Each side of the fuse block should have a wire coming to it find the wire and resolder it back to the side without a wire. I'm pretty sure I'm looking at the disconnected wire in your pictures pull it up wrap to the block the flow solder to the joint.
If this is something you can't do its ok to admit that but all the pictures in the world will not fix it.
This is a very simple fix -
See the wire on the right that comes up through the hole in the board and is soldered to the fuse block? You need to make the broken wire on the left that is just poking through the board look like the right side.
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thanks for the photo. from the plug out three wires, black must be pierced through the hole in the board and soldered to the fuse contact? I understand correctly?
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It's your photo....
LOL
Look at the other speaker for conformation it really is THAT easy -
I have 1000 memes for this, but sadly none of them are in Cyrillic.
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You noticed that to? License plate gave it awayI have 1000 memes for this, but sadly none of them are in Cyrillic.
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It looks like you have 3 holes in the passive on the right speaker that needs some attention also.2 Channel
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dkfreebird wrote: »It looks like you have 3 holes in the passive on the right speaker that needs some attention also.
He is going to need photos of the passive on the right speaker that needs some attention with the correct location of the holes so he can fix it on his own. Thank you in advance. -
dkfreebird wrote: »It looks like you have 3 holes in the passive on the right speaker that needs some attention also.
If those puncture marks are limited to the outer layer the PR will not leak air.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
about the passive membrane, I thought but for now I want to end with crossovers. not a professional soldering on both columns, so I can not compare how it should be properly done. spread more photos. From the bottom of the board under the fuse you can see that the piece of wire was soldered and closed straight. I'll clean it up. but I do not know which wire to solder to the second fuse contact. black wire from a three-core connector?
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I apologize for my language, I write through a translator
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It looks like someone bypassed the fuse on both crossovers. With a short blue wire on one and with a short white wire on the other. If this was done previous to when you made this thread, I would guess that the fuse block not being properly attached was not your issue. If this is something you did AFTER getting our advice....
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I bought the speakers in this condition. they were packed. now I want to remove all traces of non-professional repair and do as it should be.
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I bought the speakers in this condition. they were packed. now I want to remove all traces of non-professional repair and do as it should be.
And this is where we should of started. -
Yes unless you have good quality high current amplification i would keep the fuse in the circuit. Most stereo/home theater receivers just do not have the amount of current needed for the RTA 12 speakers.
Just my opinion -
which amplifiers do you recommend? what do you think, 80 watts per channel will suffice? Now I have AKAI AM 2800 and the kit HITACHI HMA 7500+ HCA 7500.
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Here are the schematics for the RTA 12 series.
http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/comment/434476/#Comment_434476Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
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send please the photo from the bottom of the fuse so you can see what and where soldered
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send please the photo from the bottom of the fuse so you can see what and where soldered
The first 2 pics show the bottom solder points2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
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