SDA2B Upgrades

Cylontymany
Cylontymany Posts: 42
in Vintage Speakers
What would be the best approach in upgrading these without breaking the bank? If I upgrade the tweet do I have to change the crossover too?
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  • deronb1
    deronb1 Posts: 5,021
    Replacing with 194s is a good first step and no, no mods are necessary for them to work properly.
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  • Cylontymany
    Cylontymany Posts: 42
    I have a Sunfire 300x2 to make them sing
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  • deronb1
    deronb1 Posts: 5,021
    Cylontymany wrote: »
    I have a Sunfire 300x2 to make them sing

    That'll do it! :)
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  • Stew
    Stew Posts: 645
    194s will be a significant improvement and require no mods. However, if you're planning future upgrades, the 198s sound even better and only require 1 additional 5.8 uF capacitor in each crossover.
    SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
    1000VA Dreadnought
    Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
    Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

    RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
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  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,086
    Send them to me along with $500 and I'll upgrade them to a pair of Dynaudios and custom made stands with spikes.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
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  • Cylontymany
    Cylontymany Posts: 42
    Thanxs everybody. Are the 198s still available through polk? I just emailed them but wasnt specific enough.
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  • Cylontymany
    Cylontymany Posts: 42
    Also forgot to ask what the mid woofers numbers should be when I pull them
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  • Stew
    Stew Posts: 645
    6503 (stereo) and 6511 (dimensional).
    SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
    1000VA Dreadnought
    Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
    Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

    RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
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  • Cylontymany
    Cylontymany Posts: 42
    And another-On the back of my SDAs they say SDA 2 I have the one tweet two mids and the large woof. Mine are the black wood colored ones. What do I have exactly?
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    edited August 2017
    That's a passive radiator, not a woofer. From what info you have posted they are likely 2B Studio versions. There would have originally been a B sticker on the top right corner of the rear label.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Cylontymany
    Cylontymany Posts: 42
    Thanxs F1 I couldnt think of the name of it at the time-I think they call it a brain ****! I think I will go with the R0198 tweets
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    You'll need to change the crossover to use them.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Cylontymany
    Cylontymany Posts: 42
    Will the 198 fit or will I have to tweek the opening? As far as the crossover goes-just add the 5.8uf capacitor?
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    It'll fit.

    At a minimum.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Stew
    Stew Posts: 645
    It will fit with no modification to the opening. Schematics are here:

    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/55888/polk-audio-speaker-wiring-schematics-more-stereo-dimensional-array-sda

    The "SDA CRS+ 1990 SL3000 Mod" drawing shows where the 5.8 uF capacitor goes. Note that the mid woofers are different in the CRS+. The 2B's use the same crossover but different mid woofers.
    SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
    1000VA Dreadnought
    Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
    Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

    RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
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  • Stew
    Stew Posts: 645
    edited August 2017
    F1nut wrote: »
    At a minimum.

    +1. When budget allows, upgrading the rest of the crossover will bring huge improvements.

    Looks like we were typing at the same time F1.
    SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
    1000VA Dreadnought
    Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
    Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

    RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
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  • voltz
    voltz Posts: 5,384
    edited August 2017
    here a little upgrade tip, how about replace the screws that hold the driver 's & PR in with hurricane nuts and machine screws?
    https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-8-32-hurricane-nuts-50-pcs--081-1080
    https://www.parts-express.com/8-32-x-1-1-4-black-machine-screw-button-head-security-hex--260-844

    also if you do this you need to drill out the holes with several bits to slowly open the opening for the **** like 1/8 then 11/64 then 13/64 then 15/64 etc.. i think is how i did mine jeez cant no say hol?

    and you don't drive in the hurricane nuts, but draw then in with a machine screw nice and slowly till they are seated.

    the machine screws posted need a security allen type bit hex head to screw down.
    like this one:

    https://www.parts-express.com/1-8-security-allen-type-bit-1--360-225

    add a copy 3x12 strip of blackhole 5 behind each driver going up towards top of cabinet.

    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

    HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
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  • Cylontymany
    Cylontymany Posts: 42
    I was planning on just doing the basic recapping and adding the 5.8uf for the 198s I am the best bang for the buck kinda guy so I dont want to try to create a whole new SDA
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    Yes, you do.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Cylontymany
    Cylontymany Posts: 42
    What 5.8uf cap should i use-brand ect...
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    The same brand your using for the rest of the XO.
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  • Stew
    Stew Posts: 645
    Cylontymany wrote: »
    I was planning on just doing the basic recapping and adding the 5.8uf for the 198s I am the best bang for the buck kinda guy so I dont want to try to create a whole new SDA

    I'm a bang for the buck guy too. The mods voltz mentioned are big bang for little buck. I'm told these are improvements suggested by Mr. Polk himself.
    SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
    1000VA Dreadnought
    Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
    Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

    RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
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  • try1256
    try1256 Posts: 26
    Cylontymany wrote: »
    I was planning on just doing the basic recapping and adding the 5.8uf for the 198s I am the best bang for the buck kinda guy so I dont want to try to create a whole new SDA

    The whole package makes a HUGE difference.
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  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,806
    try1256 wrote: »
    Cylontymany wrote: »
    I was planning on just doing the basic recapping and adding the 5.8uf for the 198s I am the best bang for the buck kinda guy so I dont want to try to create a whole new SDA

    The whole package makes a HUGE difference.

    Absolutely.

    The caps, Sonicap comes highly recommended. Using Gimpods boards make the swap a complete joy.
    Rings or hurricane nuts.
    RDO-198's with the "TL" mod.
    Black hole 5

    These mods completely transformed my 2B's.

    Worth every cent.
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  • TNTsTunes
    TNTsTunes Posts: 751
    Don't forget to glue the magnets to prevent shifting. Use Loctite Power Grab or JB Weld around the top and bottom perimeters of the magnets.

    While you at it apply dynamat extreme on the driver and passive radiator frames too.

    forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/171840/dynamat-installation-tip-for-tl3-1-and-maybe-others
    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."

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  • Stew
    Stew Posts: 645
    While you're upgrading capacitors, don't forget to remove the 750 pF bypass capacitor. Also replace the polyswitch (safety guard on the schematic) with a 0.5 ohm resistor if you have an amp with adequate power.
    SDA 2B-TL (Sonicap/Solen/Mills, Erse Super Q, Rings, Spikes, No-Rez)
    1000VA Dreadnought
    Dared SL-2000a (Siemens & Halske TM 12AT7WA's, Brimar 5Z4G)
    Jolida JD-100a (Sylvania BP TM Gold Brand 5751's), NAD C275BEE, Blue Jeans

    RTiA3, Onkyo TX-SR605
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  • Cylontymany
    Cylontymany Posts: 42
    Where is the best place to get the RD0198s? Polk wont respond to me?
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  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,283
    edited September 2017
    call them ...1-800-377-7655
    don't email
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    I missed this thread before.
    So the consensus here is to remove the 750pF cap while using RD0194s?
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • motorhead43026
    motorhead43026 Posts: 3,897
    ^^remove it when rebuilding the crossovers with better quality capacitors. Leave it as long as the crossovers are stock.
    The best way to predict the future is to invent it.

    It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact.
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