Turn my AVR into Preamp?
Kingkwas
Posts: 92
Shortly after buying my Marantz AVR I learned abt the superiority of using an amp.
Can I just turn my Marantz SR5011 into a Preamp? Is there a drastic benefit to an actual Preamp?
Can I just turn my Marantz SR5011 into a Preamp? Is there a drastic benefit to an actual Preamp?
AVR: Marantz SR 5011
L/ R: Polk Audio 703 LSiM (Bi Amp'd)
C: Polk Audio 255c - LS
R: Def Tech
Sub: PSW 505 (12 inch)
DVD: Oppo UDP 203
TV: 2016 Sony XBR 75X850D
L/ R: Polk Audio 703 LSiM (Bi Amp'd)
C: Polk Audio 255c - LS
R: Def Tech
Sub: PSW 505 (12 inch)
DVD: Oppo UDP 203
TV: 2016 Sony XBR 75X850D
Comments
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If it has preamp outputs then it can be used as a pre. Most likely a dedicated HT processor (pre) will be better than an AVR used as a pre. It was for me.Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
Your Marantz has full pre outs on it. I would add an amp for sure.
The Marantz is a good unit and will be a great Pre/Pro for you.
I have a 5010 in the MB and I run a Adcom 7500 with it.
Your LsiMs will be a lot happier.
Main room- RTiA9 x4, CSiA6, in ceiling Atmos RT-70 x4, SVS PC 4000 x2, Marantz 8805A, OPPO 203, Emotiva DR3 G3, Emotiva XPA-2 G3, Emotiva XPA-5 G3, Emotiva X300, Sony 75" 940E, Panasonic Plasma VT50, PS Audio Power Port X2, PS Audio AC-5 x8, AQ Rocket 33 Biwire speaker cables, AQ King Cobra XLR IC, Furman PFi20 W/Cullen cable, SoildSteel S4-4 rack, Gik room treatments
Office- Legend L600, in ceiling Polk RC80i, Marantz 7704, OPPO 203, Pioneer Elite PDF-59 CD, PSA Stellar 300, Sony 55" 800B, Gik room treatment
Master BR- Signature ES60, Signature S35 Center, Signature S15 Dolby Height, LSI700 in ceiling, SVS-SB4000, Marantz 5012, Emotiva XPA5 G2, OPPO 203, Pioneer DVL-919 Laser Disc, Sony 55" OLED
Patio- SDI Atrium8 x3, Emotiva A-100 amps x3 -
I'll be honest...I went from a marantz nr1403 with an external amp for the mains to a Rotel RSP-1069 pre/pro (no built in amp) and then back to a marantz sr5007. The system is for netflix tv and music, and if anything the marantz sounds slightly better all around. The two channel music might have been slightly smoother on the rotel, maybe, but tv/movies sound sooo much better on the marantz. So I would just add an amp for the 703s and call it.
FYI I finally upgrade to a rotel rb-993 200 wpc amp for the LSiM fronts, and that's when those 703s just really woke up. So I would recommend either a rotel rb-991 (the two channel version) or newer equivalent, or a parasound hca 1200 or 1500. Your ears will thank you...Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
I'm not sold on a separate pre. I get the amp part. More power is better.
How is the pre/ processor better than just making my AVR the pre/pro?
ThxAVR: Marantz SR 5011
L/ R: Polk Audio 703 LSiM (Bi Amp'd)
C: Polk Audio 255c - LS
R: Def Tech
Sub: PSW 505 (12 inch)
DVD: Oppo UDP 203
TV: 2016 Sony XBR 75X850D -
I'm not sold on a separate pre. I get the amp part. More power is better.
How is the pre/ processor better than just making my AVR the pre/pro?
Thx
An AVR is like a jack if all trades and a master of none.
A dedicated pre is just that dedicated to be a master of that function. Shorter signal paths, better implementation of the chips used for their purpose. Better components all around.
An AVR in most cases has a price point it must meet. You take a 1500.00 pre-amp and a 1500.00 AVR that pre-amp will run circles around that AVR. It will also have a much lower noise floor than the AVR.
Let me add some uber upper AVR's 5-6g range can be a whole different beast, but on a whole a dedicated pre-amp will out perform in most cases. -
Good answer, pitdogg2.Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
The rabbit hole awaits young Skywalker. lolHT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
I used to have a carver pre and when it puked (way too expensive to repair) I started using an older Integra dtr-7.1AVR receiver as a pre. I do think that the stand alone pre was a much better set up quality wise than the AVR. There are modern conveniences on the AVR that are kinda cool like zone 2 for the deck speakers outside but I will eventually change back to a stand alone pre when the wallet allows.
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Many of the flagship AVR do everything in a very impressive fashion.
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So what has more of an effect on the overall sound of your system? The amp or preamp.
I know most here will say you need to spend big bucks on both........But pick one. -
No, most won't say you need to spend big bucks, just the opposite actually. My bet, the pre will make a bigger impact on the overall sound. Preferably a tubed pre.So what has more of an effect on the overall sound of your system? The amp or preamp.
I know most here will say you need to spend big bucks on both........But pick one.
HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
I turned my AVR into a doorstop by hooking my Blu-Ray and SACD directly to my power amp. The sonic improvement was substantial.
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@Kingkwas: one step at a time.I'm not sold on a separate pre. I get the amp part. More power is better.
How is the pre/ processor better than just making my AVR the pre/pro?
Thx
An AVR is like a jack if all trades and a master of none.
A dedicated pre is just that dedicated to be a master of that function. Shorter signal paths, better implementation of the chips used for their purpose. Better components all around.
An AVR in most cases has a price point it must meet. You take a 1500.00 pre-amp and a 1500.00 AVR that pre-amp will run circles around that AVR. It will also have a much lower noise floor than the AVR.
Let me add some uber upper AVR's 5-6g range can be a whole different beast, but on a whole a dedicated pre-amp will out perform in most cases.
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
simpler, more direct signal path is almost, if not always, better.I turned my AVR into a doorstop by hooking my Blu-Ray and SACD directly to my power amp. The sonic improvement was substantial.
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
Yes. My 1999 flagship Yamaha home theater integrated amp was only seeing 44.1 KHz/16-bit from my Blu-ray via an optical cable. The internal DAC's of the player produce 192Khz/32-bit. I've read where some people say most people wouldn't notice a difference between the two, but I did an A/B test using both routes and switched between inputs on my amp, and it was a major improvement.simpler, more direct signal path is almost, if not always, better.
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please accept my upfront apology for sounding snobby. I would not know if a pre/pro* IS an upgrade from using an AVR as the same* - I've always had pre/pros; never had an AVR nor used same as a pre/pro though it makes sense.
Yes. My 1999 flagship Yamaha home theater integrated amp was only seeing 44.1 KHz/16-bit from my Blu-ray via an optical cable. The internal DAC's of the player produce 192Khz/32-bit. I've read where some people say most people wouldn't notice a difference between the two, but I did an A/B test using both routes and switched between inputs on my amp, and it was a major improvement.simpler, more direct signal path is almost, if not always, better.
Good listening all, Tony
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
Yes. My 1999 flagship Yamaha home theater integrated amp was only seeing 44.1 KHz/16-bit from my Blu-ray via an optical cable. The internal DAC's of the player produce 192Khz/32-bit. I've read where some people say most people wouldn't notice a difference between the two, but I did an A/B test using both routes and switched between inputs on my amp, and it was a major improvement.simpler, more direct signal path is almost, if not always, better.
Most people don't know what they are listening for, which is why some can't hear a difference. How do you control volume with the BR and SACD connected to an amp ? Are you using an integrated ?HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Technically, I would say it was an integrated. It's a power amp that has a volume control and 4 inputs.
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Gotcha.....looks sweet too.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
I turned my AVR into a doorstop by hooking my Blu-Ray and SACD directly to my power amp. The sonic improvement was substantial.
This is exactly why I no longer have a Parasound P5 in my 2ch system.
It had to go back for service and while it was out, I just hooked my Oppo right up my amp. After some extended listening sessions, I made the tough decision to put the P5 up for sale. -
Wow !! What a BEAUTIFUL work of Audio ART !!
That Amp is one I've never seen before.
NICE !Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
Thank you! I have been very happy with it. The build quality is excellent. Even the remote is aluminum. HAHAHA It produces more volume than an old metalhead like me can tolerate, and the sound it makes with my 2.3TL's is gorgeous, and I have yet to add my V3 crossovers, 198's, and dreadnaught into the mix.
