Spikes for 1.2tls
Gerres26
Posts: 864
I know...not another discussion on speaker spikes 
I've done a ton of reading on here about the improvements from adding them so i decided i will give them a try on my 1.2s.
I have found a bunch of nice ones on oregondv to choose from. My main problem is that i have recently moved my gear out to the main family room which has hardwood flooring. Because of this i don't need really tall spikes and im worried that too tall of spikes will place my tweeters to high up as these are alreay tall speakers. I just don't know if the smaller spikes are made to handle the weight of speakers like these.
What do you guys think? And also, the thread size doesnt matter because when i reveneered the bases i had to fill in where the stock inserts were since they were pretty beat up.
I've done a ton of reading on here about the improvements from adding them so i decided i will give them a try on my 1.2s.I have found a bunch of nice ones on oregondv to choose from. My main problem is that i have recently moved my gear out to the main family room which has hardwood flooring. Because of this i don't need really tall spikes and im worried that too tall of spikes will place my tweeters to high up as these are alreay tall speakers. I just don't know if the smaller spikes are made to handle the weight of speakers like these.
What do you guys think? And also, the thread size doesnt matter because when i reveneered the bases i had to fill in where the stock inserts were since they were pretty beat up.
Comments
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The original stock steel spikes were somewhat adjustable between 1" and 1.5" tall and 1/4" in diameter. It isn't hard to do better than those.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Jesse, Would you recommend any of the spikes from the oregondv site? And if so, what size?
Thanks -
Any version of the 1.5" spikes would be best for the size and weight of your SDA's.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
These are nice spikes with a deadly pointed tip.
http://www.hifiracks.co.uk/products/accessories/Large-Stainless-Steel-30mm-Spikes
Adona is another place for spikes, some are the same as Oregondv.
http://www.adonacorporation.com/tweaks.htmlPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Sounds good, I'll order some up tomorrow. Can any of you guys tell me the measurements on where the original t-nuts were located on the bases of the 1.2tl's? Since i filled in the old holes when i reveneered them, I'd like to make sure i use a slightly different spot for the new spikes so i hit solid mdf as opposed to wood filler.
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Inch and a quarter from both sides2 Channel
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Awesome, thanks!!
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Contrary Opinion:
You have a wood floor. The spikes will sink in. Moving the speakers will scar the wood.
The point (!!!) of the spikes is to pierce carpet and carpet pad so that the speakers couple to the "hard" floor underneath. The "magic" is due to the enormously-increased loading at the point of the spike--the pounds-per-square inch increased dramatically because while the pounds stayed about the same, the square-inches were reduced. End result is that the spike sinks through the carpet to rest on the structural floor below.
You don't have carpet. Your speakers will couple to the floor with the normal plastic "feet".
They sell spike-and-dish sets, where the spikes fit into a protector that prevents the spikes from digging into a soft (wood, linoleum, vinyl, etc) floor. The physics aren't good for this arrangement. The spikes couple to the protectors, but the protectors don't couple to the floor. This becomes an expensive waste of effort.
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It's the minimal contact point of the tip that matters regardless if it is in direct contact with the floor or a spike disc.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
If it matters, i planned to use the spike discs to keep from digging into the hardwoods.
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It's the minimal contact point of the tip that matters regardless if it is in direct contact with the floor or a spike disc.
We agree that the spike couples to the "spike disc". The spike and disc are coupled--as if they were one piece.
Now consider a one-piece spike and dish. Or mentally "weld" the spike and disc together. You've got a funny-looking pedestal an inch or three high, but where the assembly meets the floor, there's actually MORE contact area that with the OEM plastic feet. The speaker cannot couple to the floor because the PSI loading isn't there--you've increased the square inches with the spike disc instead of decreasing the square inches--and therefore increasing the loading--with the spike minus the protector disc.
Is this a joist floor? I bet the springyness of a typical joist floor is going to be of more concern than whether you have spikes or plastic feet on the speaker, given a hardwood surface. It would be great if the wall you have your speakers near continues below the floor to the story below. Then the joists have some support close to the speakers.
Hardwood over concrete could be another (happy) story. -
I dont have the info to back an argument either way in this one. But if it helps any, i no longer have the oem feet since i redid the bases. So if nothing else for me these will be a better way to get the speakers leveled up and look nice doing it. Any sonic benefits will just be a plus for me.
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Just a side note, i put the 1.5" oregondv spikes on my SRS's and my SRS 2's. The SRS's are on a carpeted floor and the 2's are on a hardwood floor. Both have no buttons under the spikes. The improvement was amazing. Yes, they would damage the floor if moved without putting something under them, but the speakers have a sweet spot relative to their position and they don't move at all this way. I adjusted them where i wanted and removed the shims under the spikes. My wife asked me what's wrong with the speakers, they don't move. I was always wondering why they kept sounding strange and sure enough, they were toe in or out and moved away or closer to the wall. All mess up the soundstage. I told her to just work around them as they are good where they are. Just have to.be careful a little.Main System
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I ended up ordering the wider 1.5" spikes from oregondv with the floor discs. Had some free time to install them today but haven't had a chance to listen yet. They're very sturdy and look great. I should get some listening in here shortly and see if i notice any changes overall.
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Very nice...2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
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Looks nice. Another good idea for wood floors are track bolts with a rounded head. Suggested by Richard Vandersteen.Basis 2200 Signature, Vector 4, Transfiguration Proteus, Allnic H3000, Meridian 200/563, CJ ET5, McIntosh 501's, Thiel CS6, 3.6, Polk SDA SRS 2.3tl, MIT EVO, KS/Wywires PC's
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Track bolts???
Are you suggesting a set of bolts that go into the speaker cabinet, leaving the rounded head to contact the wood floor? -
Exactly - I have used them on 2 sets of speakers, Thiel CS5 and Polk 2.3tl and notice a nice improvement.Basis 2200 Signature, Vector 4, Transfiguration Proteus, Allnic H3000, Meridian 200/563, CJ ET5, McIntosh 501's, Thiel CS6, 3.6, Polk SDA SRS 2.3tl, MIT EVO, KS/Wywires PC's
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What are track bolts?Looks nice. Another good idea for wood floors are track bolts with a rounded head. Suggested by Richard Vandersteen.
I tried looking them up, but not sure.I disabled signatures. -
Lookin' great Dannaaaaay!
Thanks Scott! I know we've talked recently about spikes. I can say these are very solid and have a great finish. -
Yes - it's great to see how these look in real life, and not just four chunks of shiny metal, flaunting naked threads trying to make me click the add-to-cart button.
I do like the beefier, lower profile presentation of these. Very nice height/fit - nicely elevated stance, and yet still high enough that you could probably get a microfiber dust wand underneath for a coupla swipes to keep the missus happy. Just something else to make your listening experience that much better, 'cause let's face it - it all factors in. It's not all about the sound
If this were me, I'd probably be sitting in silence just looking at them for a while, hehe I disabled signatures. -
It's counterproductive to use the discs.Wouldnt that dimple or even scar the flooring?
I like the spikes with discs idea.
Would it be counter productive to put felt on the bottom of the discs?
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I'd say a certain percentage of audio enthusiasts agree with you and the rest would disagree. I can only speak to my situation. Im pretty sure the 180lb speaker pushing down on 4 little points, which are sitting on top of small discs are better than the whole base resting on the floor. I could easily slide the speakers on my hardwood floors before the spikes and now with the pressure being concentrated to those small points, they are much harder to move. Which i would think has to make an improvement especially in bass responde. Not to mention finally having the ability to level these babys up
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Look at the fastenal website under bolts and you can see them. I have never heard of track bolts myself - but they are the lord of bolts! They are similar to hex bolts but have a rounded head.Basis 2200 Signature, Vector 4, Transfiguration Proteus, Allnic H3000, Meridian 200/563, CJ ET5, McIntosh 501's, Thiel CS6, 3.6, Polk SDA SRS 2.3tl, MIT EVO, KS/Wywires PC's -
All about the best fit for your space, I say!
Sometimes that may not be the most ultra-refined in the audiophile world, and that's alright. Can't tear up the wife's nice wood floor, for example. You can still get some/most? of the benefit?I disabled signatures. -
Those aren't the only two options.Im pretty sure the 180lb speaker pushing down on 4 little points, which are sitting on top of small discs are better than the whole base resting on the floor.
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Im pretty sure the 180lb speaker pushing down on 4 little points, which are sitting on top of small discs are better than the whole base resting on the floor.
Bingo!
Round headed bolts would be a very poor idea, IMO.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Of course not.
Offer up some others?I disabled signatures. -
Of course they aren't the only options. One option is to skip the discs and allow the spikes to dig right into the flooring. But thats not realistic for me as im not about to tear up my hardwood floors over that. And maybe there's some 'cheap' alternative to the spikes and discs but i doubt it will look as nice and be built as solid. With all the money we dump into audio things, i doubt that the 60 bucks is going to put many people over the top
