CsiA6 No Driver or Tweeter

incloud
incloud Posts: 93
in Troubleshooting
As the title suggests, my CsiA6 No Driver or Tweeter. Only 1 driver working, no left driver or tweeter. Polk already replaced both drivers and tweeter. Worked great for a couple weeks but now only 1 driver working. I have 1 new driver to try but feel that it may be a connection somewhere. I use Emotiva Pro cables and have used speaker wire also to test. Maybe jumpers? Any and all suggestions would be great! Sounds terrible like this and am using 7 channel enhancer on my rx- v765 to get by until this is fixed. I have swapped to left channel to confirm it is the csia6. Thanks in advance for your time and consideration...
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Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,543
    I use Emotiva Pro cables and have used speaker wire also to test.

    Explain this please.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • incloud
    incloud Posts: 93
    F1nut wrote: »
    I use Emotiva Pro cables and have used speaker wire also to test.

    Explain this please.

    I mean I have tried standard speaker cables and also Emotiva Pro cables both with same results.
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  • incloud
    incloud Posts: 93
    nbrowser wrote: »
    Yeah, it'd be an idea to check the jumper straps and all binding post nuts to assure tightness and complete connections, it's the first thing to check.

    I checked the straps and tightness and have seen no changes. I can't seem to figure this out for the life of me. Is it safe to mess with connections while the system is on?
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,440
    incloud wrote: »
    nbrowser wrote: »
    Yeah, it'd be an idea to check the jumper straps and all binding post nuts to assure tightness and complete connections, it's the first thing to check.

    I checked the straps and tightness and have seen no changes. I can't seem to figure this out for the life of me. Is it safe to mess with connections while the system is on?

    I wouldn't do that....

    But i would pull the drivers and ohm them out to see if they show anything. Have you looked at the crossover board to see if any thing is discolored?
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  • incloud
    incloud Posts: 93
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    incloud wrote: »
    nbrowser wrote: »
    Yeah, it'd be an idea to check the jumper straps and all binding post nuts to assure tightness and complete connections, it's the first thing to check.

    I checked the straps and tightness and have seen no changes. I can't seem to figure this out for the life of me. Is it safe to mess with connections while the system is on?

    I wouldn't do that....

    But i would pull the drivers and ohm them out to see if they show anything. Have you looked at the crossover board to see if any thing is discolored?

    I just made a couple jumpers, no difference. I then pulled both the driver and tweeter to check connections and tightened them with pliers. I still get nothing from the tweeter but it seems the left driver is working now but very low compared to the right driver. Tomorrow I'll run YPAO and recalibrate the system. If that doesn't work I'll have to send it back and have it replaced by Polk. I've had quite a few problems with their speakers unfortunately. Although they have been very good about replacing parts without question or sending back the faulty equipment. I've always used Klipsch before this setup and loved their sound but the RTI A's caught my eye for aesthetics. They look great in my room and match my cabinet.
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  • incloud
    incloud Posts: 93
    khbj290r9bua.jpg
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,543
    The two drivers play different frequency ranges, which is likely what you're hearing now.

    Pull the binding post plate to inspect the crossover. You're looking for a cooked resistor.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • incloud
    incloud Posts: 93
    Thanks, I'll check it out in the morning and get back to you. If it is the resistor what would you suggest? I'd love to know what is causing the issue. I have it run off an Emotiva XPA- 100 that is rated for exactly the specs of the CSI- A6. I never crank up the system. I built the system way more powerful than I'll ever utilize. My SVS PB- 2000 shakes the entire house and I have tenants above me.
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  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,281
    Are you using an AVR?
    If so, what xover settings on the AVR are you using?

    Have you forgotten to turn sub on when listening or watching a movie?

    Seen similar scenario's

    The 2 white blocks on the top of the image are the sand cast resistors...unless my pic library is screwed up


    3tr29o3tm9po.jpg
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
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  • incloud
    incloud Posts: 93
    I usually set my AVR (RXV- 765) at 60 but have tried 80. CSIA6 is good down to 45. Sub stays in standby with power on.
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