Pros and cons of multiple subwoofers

13»

Comments

  • ken brydsonken brydson Posts: 7,244
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    4 PSW-150’s in the living room and 2 PSW-200’s in the bedroom. Multiple smaller subs almost always work better than larger ones (exceptions to every rule obviously) These are not expensive subs and I got them on eBay used every one.

    I know that, but at the time I was planning on getting mains that would cover the bass frequencies better. Now I’m heading towards the idea of a small set of speakers and two small 6 inch subs or something (like the Polk MicroPro subs, those are 8 inch subs, yes?)

    Get a real sub, just sayin'....
    HT/Main- Panny 50" G10 Plasma, Pioneer SC-1222k AVR, Panny DMP-BD60 BDP, Polk LS90 mains, CS350LS center, LS/fx side surrounds, LS50 surround backs, SVS 25-31PC+ sub, Harmony One

    Office Rig- Marantz 2252B, Denon 2910, Kenwood KD2070 TT, Polk RTA 12B's/ RTA8t
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 2,091
    Not sure as I honestly haven’t kept up with Polk’s newer stuff. I say go for it and get as many as you can! ;)
    Living room Home theater: Upgrade Company modified Onkyo PR-SC5509,Sunfire Cinema grand Signature 5 channel amp(1st gen),Carver TFM-45,Carver M-400a,Panasonic TC-P50ST60 50" Plasma(last gen before Plasma production stopped)Pioneer Elite DVL-91,Meridian 519 Dolby AC-3 RF Demodulator,Oppo Digital UDP-205,TiVo Bolt VOX,Nakamich BX-300,Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type VxMR cartridge,Polk SDA-SRS 3.1 TL(with RD-0198 tweeters, upgraded with Larry's rings, black hole5,an Avel-Lindberg 1000VA isolation transformer, VR3 customer crossovers and internal wiring),Polk CS-1000P(with SL-6506 tweeter),Polk Monitor 5jr(with RD-0194 tweeters),Polk RT-35i (1),Polk Mini Monitors,Polk PSW150(4)Monster Power HTPS 7000 MKII Signature series,Monster Power AVS 2000 Signature Series,Various MIT,Monster,Upgrade Company and Belden interconnect,power,HDMI,Coax and Toslink Digital and speaker cables.

    Bedroom 2 channel system:Integra DTM 40.4,Nakamichi BX-100,TiVo mini,Musical Fidelity X-LPS,X-PSU,Carver TFM-25,Sony KV-34XBR970(last of the widescreen tube sets before production stopped)Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type V MR cartridge,Polk RT-55(with SL-6506 tweeters),Polk PSW-200 in plexiglass(2),Sony Playstation 3 slim.Monster Power HTPS-7000,Monster AVS-2000, PowerVarious Kimber,Audioquest and MIT interconnects and speaker cables.
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,334
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    4 PSW-150’s in the living room and 2 PSW-200’s in the bedroom. Multiple smaller subs almost always work better than larger ones (exceptions to every rule obviously) These are not expensive subs and I got them on eBay used every one.

    I know that, but at the time I was planning on getting mains that would cover the bass frequencies better. Now I’m heading towards the idea of a small set of speakers and two small 6 inch subs or something (like the Polk MicroPro subs, those are 8 inch subs, yes?)

    Get a real sub, just sayin'....

    In my room, a “real sub” is like packing 4 1000 watt 18 inch subs in the back of a 90s Honda Civic :lol: :wink:
    Ok, maybe a little exaggerated, but the picture still stands. I do have a (at least somewhat) real sub (a Velodyne CHT-10) but it is way too powerful for my room.
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • ken brydsonken brydson Posts: 7,244
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    4 PSW-150’s in the living room and 2 PSW-200’s in the bedroom. Multiple smaller subs almost always work better than larger ones (exceptions to every rule obviously) These are not expensive subs and I got them on eBay used every one.

    I know that, but at the time I was planning on getting mains that would cover the bass frequencies better. Now I’m heading towards the idea of a small set of speakers and two small 6 inch subs or something (like the Polk MicroPro subs, those are 8 inch subs, yes?)

    Get a real sub, just sayin'....

    In my room, a “real sub” is like packing 4 1000 watt 18 inch subs in the back of a 90s Honda Civic :lol: :wink:
    Ok, maybe a little exaggerated, but the picture still stands. I do have a (at least somewhat) real sub (a Velodyne CHT-10) but it is way too powerful for my room.

    There's what's called a volume knob. As in engines, there's no replacement for displacement.
    HT/Main- Panny 50" G10 Plasma, Pioneer SC-1222k AVR, Panny DMP-BD60 BDP, Polk LS90 mains, CS350LS center, LS/fx side surrounds, LS50 surround backs, SVS 25-31PC+ sub, Harmony One

    Office Rig- Marantz 2252B, Denon 2910, Kenwood KD2070 TT, Polk RTA 12B's/ RTA8t
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,334
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    4 PSW-150’s in the living room and 2 PSW-200’s in the bedroom. Multiple smaller subs almost always work better than larger ones (exceptions to every rule obviously) These are not expensive subs and I got them on eBay used every one.

    I know that, but at the time I was planning on getting mains that would cover the bass frequencies better. Now I’m heading towards the idea of a small set of speakers and two small 6 inch subs or something (like the Polk MicroPro subs, those are 8 inch subs, yes?)

    Get a real sub, just sayin'....

    In my room, a “real sub” is like packing 4 1000 watt 18 inch subs in the back of a 90s Honda Civic :lol: :wink:
    Ok, maybe a little exaggerated, but the picture still stands. I do have a (at least somewhat) real sub (a Velodyne CHT-10) but it is way too powerful for my room.

    There's what's called a volume knob. As in engines, there's no replacement for displacement.

    Like I said before, the volume knob doesn’t turn down enough before it just sits not doing anything at all.
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • polrbehrpolrbehr Posts: 2,160
    So then a MicroPro 1000 (or two) may be the way to go for you, @mlistens03, though they seem scarce. Maybe a DSW Pro 440wi or an HTS10?
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,334
    polrbehr wrote: »
    So then a MicroPro 1000 (or two) may be the way to go for you, @mlistens03, though they seem scarce. Maybe a DSW Pro 440wi or an HTS10?

    Exactly what I was thinking. The HTS-10 might be a little on the large side, but it is certainly a contender.
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • joecoulsonjoecoulson Posts: 1,012
    I always thought multiple were best until I got the SB16 and now I cannot imagine having another one. It’s really balanced as is and imaging has not been negatively affected.but the slam this thing has in my room. OMG
    2ch: PS Audio Stellar Gain pre, Linn LK240 monoblocks (x4 - bi-amping) Polk LSiM705's, SVS SB16 Ultra Subwoofer, Cambridge Audio CXN v2, Rega Planar 2 with upgrades, Vincent PHO 701 Phono pre, Audioquest Niagara 1000, AQ Thunder, AQ XLR's and IC's, Wireworld Stratus and Aurora power cables, Atlas EOS power cable, Denon 2910 (as transport) Sony CPD355 Jukebox cd

    5.1: Marantz sr5003 (feeding mains through HT bypass) Sonus Faber solo center, AQ Carbon HDMI's, Sony XBRx900E, Xbox One S as 4k player, Definitive Technology SM350's surrounds, Tivo Bolt, Harmony Elite remote

    Other gear: Totem Rainmakers (not hooked up) Sonos play 5 and play 1's x 2, Audio Technica TT and Edifier active speakers in kids room, JVC XM448 minidisc rack mount, Sony minidisc walkman, Project Debut III (currently not working), Samsung 46, and 2 x32" tvs, Samsung Soundbar, Okki Nokki LP cleaner, Second Harmony remote setup for bedroom, etc etc
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 2,091
    Finally getting around to watching Justice League on Blu-Ray. The bass is an order of magnitude better in Dolby True HD than when I saw it on Cable in Dolby Digital !
    DEEPER too >:)
    Living room Home theater: Upgrade Company modified Onkyo PR-SC5509,Sunfire Cinema grand Signature 5 channel amp(1st gen),Carver TFM-45,Carver M-400a,Panasonic TC-P50ST60 50" Plasma(last gen before Plasma production stopped)Pioneer Elite DVL-91,Meridian 519 Dolby AC-3 RF Demodulator,Oppo Digital UDP-205,TiVo Bolt VOX,Nakamich BX-300,Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type VxMR cartridge,Polk SDA-SRS 3.1 TL(with RD-0198 tweeters, upgraded with Larry's rings, black hole5,an Avel-Lindberg 1000VA isolation transformer, VR3 customer crossovers and internal wiring),Polk CS-1000P(with SL-6506 tweeter),Polk Monitor 5jr(with RD-0194 tweeters),Polk RT-35i (1),Polk Mini Monitors,Polk PSW150(4)Monster Power HTPS 7000 MKII Signature series,Monster Power AVS 2000 Signature Series,Various MIT,Monster,Upgrade Company and Belden interconnect,power,HDMI,Coax and Toslink Digital and speaker cables.

    Bedroom 2 channel system:Integra DTM 40.4,Nakamichi BX-100,TiVo mini,Musical Fidelity X-LPS,X-PSU,Carver TFM-25,Sony KV-34XBR970(last of the widescreen tube sets before production stopped)Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type V MR cartridge,Polk RT-55(with SL-6506 tweeters),Polk PSW-200 in plexiglass(2),Sony Playstation 3 slim.Monster Power HTPS-7000,Monster AVS-2000, PowerVarious Kimber,Audioquest and MIT interconnects and speaker cables.
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 3,000
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    4 PSW-150’s in the living room and 2 PSW-200’s in the bedroom. Multiple smaller subs almost always work better than larger ones (exceptions to every rule obviously) These are not expensive subs and I got them on eBay used every one.

    I know that, but at the time I was planning on getting mains that would cover the bass frequencies better. Now I’m heading towards the idea of a small set of speakers and two small 6 inch subs or something (like the Polk MicroPro subs, those are 8 inch subs, yes?)

    Get a real sub, just sayin'....

    In my room, a “real sub” is like packing 4 1000 watt 18 inch subs in the back of a 90s Honda Civic :lol: :wink:
    Ok, maybe a little exaggerated, but the picture still stands. I do have a (at least somewhat) real sub (a Velodyne CHT-10) but it is way too powerful for my room.

    There's what's called a volume knob. As in engines, there's no replacement for displacement.

    Like I said before, the volume knob doesn’t turn down enough before it just sits not doing anything at all.

    Then increase the line in impedance to decrease the incoming signal, or build a secondary in line volume control (simple circuit) so that the sub's preamp has to do some work.
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,334
    FestYboy wrote: »
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    4 PSW-150’s in the living room and 2 PSW-200’s in the bedroom. Multiple smaller subs almost always work better than larger ones (exceptions to every rule obviously) These are not expensive subs and I got them on eBay used every one.

    I know that, but at the time I was planning on getting mains that would cover the bass frequencies better. Now I’m heading towards the idea of a small set of speakers and two small 6 inch subs or something (like the Polk MicroPro subs, those are 8 inch subs, yes?)

    Get a real sub, just sayin'....

    In my room, a “real sub” is like packing 4 1000 watt 18 inch subs in the back of a 90s Honda Civic :lol: :wink:
    Ok, maybe a little exaggerated, but the picture still stands. I do have a (at least somewhat) real sub (a Velodyne CHT-10) but it is way too powerful for my room.

    There's what's called a volume knob. As in engines, there's no replacement for displacement.

    Like I said before, the volume knob doesn’t turn down enough before it just sits not doing anything at all.

    Then increase the line in impedance to decrease the incoming signal, or build a secondary in line volume control (simple circuit) so that the sub's preamp has to do some work.

    How do I increase the impedance?
    I can give the in line volume control a try, even with my basic knowledge of circuits I can do that one. Just gotta find a volume pot.
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 3,000
    Both are the same thing, the first being static, the second being variable.
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 2,091
    I just use the level settings for the subs in my preamp.
    Living room Home theater: Upgrade Company modified Onkyo PR-SC5509,Sunfire Cinema grand Signature 5 channel amp(1st gen),Carver TFM-45,Carver M-400a,Panasonic TC-P50ST60 50" Plasma(last gen before Plasma production stopped)Pioneer Elite DVL-91,Meridian 519 Dolby AC-3 RF Demodulator,Oppo Digital UDP-205,TiVo Bolt VOX,Nakamich BX-300,Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type VxMR cartridge,Polk SDA-SRS 3.1 TL(with RD-0198 tweeters, upgraded with Larry's rings, black hole5,an Avel-Lindberg 1000VA isolation transformer, VR3 customer crossovers and internal wiring),Polk CS-1000P(with SL-6506 tweeter),Polk Monitor 5jr(with RD-0194 tweeters),Polk RT-35i (1),Polk Mini Monitors,Polk PSW150(4)Monster Power HTPS 7000 MKII Signature series,Monster Power AVS 2000 Signature Series,Various MIT,Monster,Upgrade Company and Belden interconnect,power,HDMI,Coax and Toslink Digital and speaker cables.

    Bedroom 2 channel system:Integra DTM 40.4,Nakamichi BX-100,TiVo mini,Musical Fidelity X-LPS,X-PSU,Carver TFM-25,Sony KV-34XBR970(last of the widescreen tube sets before production stopped)Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type V MR cartridge,Polk RT-55(with SL-6506 tweeters),Polk PSW-200 in plexiglass(2),Sony Playstation 3 slim.Monster Power HTPS-7000,Monster AVS-2000, PowerVarious Kimber,Audioquest and MIT interconnects and speaker cables.
  • Woah! You guys are into "Rocket Science" territory. I just jumped in here to see if there was anything I needed to know to setup and enjoy my "upgrade" to PWS10. Now I feel like cheap idiot. But on the plus side I hooked it up and it really sounds nice. I hooked it up to a new Denon 500 series. I thought I had just spent a lot of money to get some pretty good stuff. We only watch tv (New 4k Visio) and movies on DVD, BluRay. Rarely Music. Going to replace the really cheap RCA HT in a box speakers. Suggestions? Remember cheap, one step above "kit box" speakers, ok maybe two or three? And the Polk is sounding really, really good to me. :p

    Thanks, Mike
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 2,091
    LightEagle wrote: »
    Woah! You guys are into "Rocket Science" territory. I just jumped in here to see if there was anything I needed to know to setup and enjoy my "upgrade" to PWS10. Now I feel like cheap idiot. But on the plus side I hooked it up and it really sounds nice. I hooked it up to a new Denon 500 series. I thought I had just spent a lot of money to get some pretty good stuff. We only watch tv (New 4k Visio) and movies on DVD, BluRay. Rarely Music. Going to replace the really cheap RCA HT in a box speakers. Suggestions? Remember cheap, one step above "kit box" speakers, ok maybe two or three? And the Polk is sounding really, really good to me. :p

    Thanks, Mike

    @LightEagle
    Welcome to the Rabbit Hol.............I mean FORUM! ;)
    Living room Home theater: Upgrade Company modified Onkyo PR-SC5509,Sunfire Cinema grand Signature 5 channel amp(1st gen),Carver TFM-45,Carver M-400a,Panasonic TC-P50ST60 50" Plasma(last gen before Plasma production stopped)Pioneer Elite DVL-91,Meridian 519 Dolby AC-3 RF Demodulator,Oppo Digital UDP-205,TiVo Bolt VOX,Nakamich BX-300,Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type VxMR cartridge,Polk SDA-SRS 3.1 TL(with RD-0198 tweeters, upgraded with Larry's rings, black hole5,an Avel-Lindberg 1000VA isolation transformer, VR3 customer crossovers and internal wiring),Polk CS-1000P(with SL-6506 tweeter),Polk Monitor 5jr(with RD-0194 tweeters),Polk RT-35i (1),Polk Mini Monitors,Polk PSW150(4)Monster Power HTPS 7000 MKII Signature series,Monster Power AVS 2000 Signature Series,Various MIT,Monster,Upgrade Company and Belden interconnect,power,HDMI,Coax and Toslink Digital and speaker cables.

    Bedroom 2 channel system:Integra DTM 40.4,Nakamichi BX-100,TiVo mini,Musical Fidelity X-LPS,X-PSU,Carver TFM-25,Sony KV-34XBR970(last of the widescreen tube sets before production stopped)Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type V MR cartridge,Polk RT-55(with SL-6506 tweeters),Polk PSW-200 in plexiglass(2),Sony Playstation 3 slim.Monster Power HTPS-7000,Monster AVS-2000, PowerVarious Kimber,Audioquest and MIT interconnects and speaker cables.
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,334
    LightEagle wrote: »
    Woah! You guys are into "Rocket Science" territory. I just jumped in here to see if there was anything I needed to know to setup and enjoy my "upgrade" to PWS10. Now I feel like cheap idiot. But on the plus side I hooked it up and it really sounds nice. I hooked it up to a new Denon 500 series. I thought I had just spent a lot of money to get some pretty good stuff. We only watch tv (New 4k Visio) and movies on DVD, BluRay. Rarely Music. Going to replace the really cheap RCA HT in a box speakers. Suggestions? Remember cheap, one step above "kit box" speakers, ok maybe two or three? And the Polk is sounding really, really good to me. :p

    Thanks, Mike

    Polk T series might fit your budget. If you can spend more than that, Polk Signature's would rock. :)
    Welcome to Club Polk!
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • joecoulsonjoecoulson Posts: 1,012
    My suggestion would be to scour CL and see what you find. You may be able to get a substantial upgrade over the HTIB for less than you thought.
    2ch: PS Audio Stellar Gain pre, Linn LK240 monoblocks (x4 - bi-amping) Polk LSiM705's, SVS SB16 Ultra Subwoofer, Cambridge Audio CXN v2, Rega Planar 2 with upgrades, Vincent PHO 701 Phono pre, Audioquest Niagara 1000, AQ Thunder, AQ XLR's and IC's, Wireworld Stratus and Aurora power cables, Atlas EOS power cable, Denon 2910 (as transport) Sony CPD355 Jukebox cd

    5.1: Marantz sr5003 (feeding mains through HT bypass) Sonus Faber solo center, AQ Carbon HDMI's, Sony XBRx900E, Xbox One S as 4k player, Definitive Technology SM350's surrounds, Tivo Bolt, Harmony Elite remote

    Other gear: Totem Rainmakers (not hooked up) Sonos play 5 and play 1's x 2, Audio Technica TT and Edifier active speakers in kids room, JVC XM448 minidisc rack mount, Sony minidisc walkman, Project Debut III (currently not working), Samsung 46, and 2 x32" tvs, Samsung Soundbar, Okki Nokki LP cleaner, Second Harmony remote setup for bedroom, etc etc
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,334
    joecoulson wrote: »
    My suggestion would be to scour CL and see what you find. You may be able to get a substantial upgrade over the HTIB for less than you thought.

    This too. Used is the way to go, IMO.
    I thought you had said you wanted to buy new. that's what I get for being tired. :D
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • polrbehrpolrbehr Posts: 2,160
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    joecoulson wrote: »
    My suggestion would be to scour CL and see what you find. You may be able to get a substantial upgrade over the HTIB for less than you thought.

    This too. Used is the way to go, IMO.
    I thought you had said you wanted to buy new. that's what I get for being tired. :D

    For the record, if you are under the age of 20, you are not permitted to be tired.
    Ever.






    :)
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
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