Lexan, Plexiglas, SDA cups.
VSAT88
Posts: 1,257
When I was in the car stereo business many many years ago we used to use plexiglass cut with a jig saw painted black on the back side to install car stereos when the customer wanted something different or when we could not find a faceplate kit to use for that particular car. I was thinking the other day about doing the same for my SDA speakers. Maybe even leaving it clear witch would be cool to me, I love wires. So, question. What thickness and material would be suitable if any ? It seems like we cut it out then used sandpaper around the edges to make it smooth then pulled the paper off. Any ideas or a bad idea ? Thanks.
Comments
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Kind of surprised no one else threw in an opinion here. Going to H. Depot now to check out what they got...
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Is there something wrong with your BP cups? The originals are decent quality. Unless you listen to your speakers while they're facing the wall, I don't understand the purpose.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
The original cups are maybe 1/8" thick? They get some rigidity from the 3-D molding, but even so, I'd think 1/4" flat would be at least as rigid.1/2" thick would be more than acceptable and rigid on a smaller terminal cup piece I would think.
'Course, I've never tested plastic rigidity. (hmmm. Somewhat of a contradiction in terms!)
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@VSAT88,
I used 1/4" Lexan, secured to the SDA inductor, to mount the crossovers in my SDA 1Cs after Trey [VR3 Mods] upgraded them for me.
The Lexan was certainly rigid enough for that application. I'm sure it is sufficiently rigid for use as binding post plates.
Here's a picture of my use of it:
Family Room, Innuos Statement streamer (Roon Core) with Morrow Audio USB cable to McIntosh MC 2700 pre with DC2 Digital Audio Module; AQ Sky XLRs to CAT 600.2 dualmono amp, Morrow Elite Speaker Cables to NOLA Baby Grand Reference Gold 3 speakers. Power source for all components: Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One with dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel.
Exercise Room, Innuos Streamer via Cat 6 cable connection to PS Audio PerfectWave MkII DAC w/Bridge II, AQ King Cobra RCAs to Perreaux PMF3150 amp (fully restored and upgraded by Jeffrey Jackson, Precision Audio Labs), Supra Rondo 4x2.5 Speaker Cables to SDA 1Cs (Vr3 Mods Xovers and other mods.), Dreadnaught with Supra Rondo 4x2.5 interconnect cables by Vr3 Mods. Power for each component from dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel, except Innuos Statement powered from Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One. -
westmassguy wrote: »Is there something wrong with your BP cups? The originals are decent quality. Unless you listen to your speakers while they're facing the wall, I don't understand the purpose.
Yes, They both have holes drilled in them by me that were too big so while I was back there I thought why not.. -
Moose68Bash wrote: »@VSAT88,
I used 1/4" Lexan, secured to the SDA inductor, to mount the crossovers in my SDA 1Cs after Trey [VR3 Mods] upgraded them for me.
The Lexan was certainly rigid enough for that application. I'm sure it is sufficiently rigid for use as binding post plates.
Here's a picture of my use of it:
I am going for it. It cant cost much. I think I am going to try and mount my crossover networks on the bottom of the speakers as well. I am certain that standoffs will work but I like the Idea of having them on the bottom of the cabinet. Just makes better sense to me. I am glad you posted that picture, I really appreciate that. -
@VSAT88,
The picture has misled you about how I mounted the crossovers in the speaker cabinet.
I actually mounted the crossover printed circuit board on the Lexan that is secured to the inductor.
The picture shows the crossover sitting on the bottom of the cabinet before I mounted it on the Lexan. The four stainless screws int he Lexan match up with the holes in the board. In the end I had to change out the stainless screws for nylon because I got some conductivity through the stainless.
Sorry for the confusion.
The following picture shows the complete inductor/crossover assembly compared with the OEM assemblies:
Family Room, Innuos Statement streamer (Roon Core) with Morrow Audio USB cable to McIntosh MC 2700 pre with DC2 Digital Audio Module; AQ Sky XLRs to CAT 600.2 dualmono amp, Morrow Elite Speaker Cables to NOLA Baby Grand Reference Gold 3 speakers. Power source for all components: Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One with dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel.
Exercise Room, Innuos Streamer via Cat 6 cable connection to PS Audio PerfectWave MkII DAC w/Bridge II, AQ King Cobra RCAs to Perreaux PMF3150 amp (fully restored and upgraded by Jeffrey Jackson, Precision Audio Labs), Supra Rondo 4x2.5 Speaker Cables to SDA 1Cs (Vr3 Mods Xovers and other mods.), Dreadnaught with Supra Rondo 4x2.5 interconnect cables by Vr3 Mods. Power for each component from dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel, except Innuos Statement powered from Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One. -
OK, now I see what you did. I took a second look. Those crossovers look really nice. The original ones look similar to my SDA2b's but I don't think they are from 2b's. What speakers are the networks for, the SDA 1Cs you have listed below ? I am still thinking of moving mine to the bottom of the cabinet. Any reason I should not ?Moose68Bash wrote: »@VSAT88,
The picture has misled you about how I mounted the crossovers in the speaker cabinet.
I actually mounted the crossover printed circuit board on the Lexan that is secured to the inductor.
The picture shows the crossover sitting on the bottom of the cabinet before I mounted it on the Lexan. The four stainless screws int he Lexan match up with the holes in the board. In the end I had to change out the stainless screws for nylon because I got some conductivity through the stainless.
Sorry for the confusion.
The following picture shows the complete inductor/crossover assembly compared with the OEM assemblies:
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Understood. Another option, which I've done several times, is using salvaged BP Cups. Here's a pair of Monitor 5: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-2-Polk-M5-Speaker-Crossovers-Wire-Input-Panels-For-Speaker-Project-/401252535458?hash=item5d6c83cca2:g:AQsAAOSw0RpXloI0westmassguy wrote: »Is there something wrong with your BP cups? The originals are decent quality. Unless you listen to your speakers while they're facing the wall, I don't understand the purpose.
Yes, They both have holes drilled in them by me that were too big so while I was back there I thought why not..
And another: http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLK-AUDIO-MONITOR-5-SERIES-CROSSOVERS-WORK-PERFECTLY-PAIR-FREE-SHIPPING-/262630374108?hash=item3d25fd7adc:g:94wAAOSwzaJX3Yfg
Remove the Binding Posts, Fuse Blocks, and either cut or "snap" the spool off the back.
Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
It's nice to see a person admit to a mistake.
Cheers VSAT88!"Sometimes you have to look to the past to understand where you are going in the future"Anger is just anger. It isn’t good. It isn’t bad. It just is. What you do with it is what matters.
You can use it to build or to destroy. You just have to make the choice. Jim Butcher
Harry / Marietta GA -
Are the bolts used non magnetic? I was always under the impression that anything magnetic around an inductor was not good. It seems many here made sure to use brass or non magnetic stainless steel around inductors especially when building the dreadnaught.
Just my observation I could be totally wrong. -
It's funny you mention that, the original mount used a 1/4-20 cap screw and nut. This raises the Inductance value, since it's no longer a true air-core.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
As far as ferrous metal goes I think it really only matters if say a bolt or rod were placed through the middle or even part way down the middle of an air core. A couple inches away and off to the side should have no effect or at least minimal right.Yamaha RXA1030, Yamaha CD-S2100, Yamaha AS-2200, Bluesound node 2i
Polk SDA2btl highly modded
Polk SDA 1C modded
Polk CS350 LS x2
Kimber 8TC
Sony 55" Bravia
Wish list SVS sub -
There is one. Maybe all the others outside counteract it...
Dave does have a good point i forgot mine also have one in my SDA's.
Carry on nothing to see here...lol -
BlueBirdMusic wrote: »It's nice to see a person admit to a mistake.
Cheers VSAT88!
Thanks, I make them everyday ! -
westmassguy wrote: »
Understood. Another option, which I've done several times, is using salvaged BP Cups. Here's a pair of Monitor 5: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-2-Polk-M5-Speaker-Crossovers-Wire-Input-Panels-For-Speaker-Project-/401252535458?hash=item5d6c83cca2:g:AQsAAOSw0RpXloI0westmassguy wrote: »Is there something wrong with your BP cups? The originals are decent quality. Unless you listen to your speakers while they're facing the wall, I don't understand the purpose.
Yes, They both have holes drilled in them by me that were too big so while I was back there I thought why not..
And another: http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLK-AUDIO-MONITOR-5-SERIES-CROSSOVERS-WORK-PERFECTLY-PAIR-FREE-SHIPPING-/262630374108?hash=item3d25fd7adc:g:94wAAOSwzaJX3Yfg
Remove the Binding Posts, Fuse Blocks, and either cut or "snap" the spool off the back.
And once again westmass you may have solved my issue..I have a huge lot of old equipment I horde oh, I meant save for parts....Got a set of Monitor 10 cups on hand, now to see if they fit. thanks ! -
The BP Cups went through a few aesthetic revisions, but the basic shape, and the two part assembly remained the same. Early ones were smooth, not textured, some had fuse blocks, and later textured models had three holes filled with pop rivets after the fuses were discontinued. Late models had no holes other than for the Binding Posts.
Just drill out the rivets, remove the Binding Posts, and GENTLY try to pry, or snap the spool off the back. Sometimes very little glue was used and they pop right off. Other times, I've had to cut the spool off with a hack saw, then, using an inverted belt sander, I smoothed off the back side.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
OK, now I see what you did. I took a second look. Those crossovers look really nice. The original ones look similar to my SDA2b's but I don't think they are from 2b's. What speakers are the networks for, the SDA 1Cs you have listed below ? I am still thinking of moving mine to the bottom of the cabinet. Any reason I should not ?
@VSAT88,
The original crossovers are from my SDA 1Cs, and the modified ones were done by VR3 Mods. By the way, they sound as great as they look!
I am no expert, but I don't see any reason that you can't place the crossovers on the bottoms of the speaker cabinets. You need to secure them to the cabinets well and isolate them. If you secure them with a bolt through the cabinet bottom, then you need to make sure the cabinet remains sealed and air tight. But, those things are obvious.
Family Room, Innuos Statement streamer (Roon Core) with Morrow Audio USB cable to McIntosh MC 2700 pre with DC2 Digital Audio Module; AQ Sky XLRs to CAT 600.2 dualmono amp, Morrow Elite Speaker Cables to NOLA Baby Grand Reference Gold 3 speakers. Power source for all components: Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One with dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel.
Exercise Room, Innuos Streamer via Cat 6 cable connection to PS Audio PerfectWave MkII DAC w/Bridge II, AQ King Cobra RCAs to Perreaux PMF3150 amp (fully restored and upgraded by Jeffrey Jackson, Precision Audio Labs), Supra Rondo 4x2.5 Speaker Cables to SDA 1Cs (Vr3 Mods Xovers and other mods.), Dreadnaught with Supra Rondo 4x2.5 interconnect cables by Vr3 Mods. Power for each component from dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel, except Innuos Statement powered from Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One. -
One of my crossover,s on my 2bs was loose from the inductor and hanging by the wires, I believe they should have been mounted to the floor from the get go.Yamaha RXA1030, Yamaha CD-S2100, Yamaha AS-2200, Bluesound node 2i
Polk SDA2btl highly modded
Polk SDA 1C modded
Polk CS350 LS x2
Kimber 8TC
Sony 55" Bravia
Wish list SVS sub -
My crossovers are now mounted to a piece of lexan with 8 nylon screws and 1" standoffs, I used the original mounting hole in the cabinet and a single 5/16 through bolt to secure them as you see in the picture the bolts Are Allen head like the oem.Yamaha RXA1030, Yamaha CD-S2100, Yamaha AS-2200, Bluesound node 2i
Polk SDA2btl highly modded
Polk SDA 1C modded
Polk CS350 LS x2
Kimber 8TC
Sony 55" Bravia
Wish list SVS sub -
Yes, my 2b's were the same way. Crossovers floating in mid air, barely hanging on . I mounted them inside the cab to the right because the fit there well and I did not want to re wire the whole speaker cabinets. I like the stock wire just fine. I used Armacell for pads beneath each one and screws. I do think that I am going to try and mount the networks on the SRS 2's on the bottom of the cabinet unless someone here with knowledge tells me that I should not. I have not done any big time crossover MODs, just simple ones. Using the stock boards and repopulating them with fresh parts. With these as you see just Clarity Cap in the top section with Mills resistors and Aerovox in the bypass section. I am pretty happy with them . I know one thing is for sure and that is that I will be taking them back apart to dampen those Passive radiators, those things ring like a bell without dampening. The SRS 2's have already been done and they knock, no ringing there.
RandyCroissant wrote: »One of my crossover,s on my 2bs was loose from the inductor and hanging by the wires, I believe they should have been mounted to the floor from the get go.
