Need help finishing out a polk HT setup (rti a9 and friends)

Hi guys, I have been a lurker for a few weeks now and am getting close to purchasing my first HT system, and am trying to do my due diligence in getting the right gear.

75% HT / 25% Music
Room is somewhat odd-shaped, it is essentially an entryway/kitchen/small office/living room, the living room itself is about 18 feet x 13 feet with an 8-ish foot ceiling, but the total room size is probably a little more than double that.
Budget is about 2000-4000, prefer to be closer to 2000, but if there are significant gains to be had I don't mind going a bit overboard. I work at Best Buy and am able to buy almost anything Best Buy offers on their website at a significant discount, so it definitely helps my budget.

I've pretty much fallen in love with the rti cherry speaker line, and I think I pretty much have my heart set on the rti a9 as fronts along with their partner the csi a6 for a center. I'm also interested in flirting with the idea of atmos 5.1.2 and/or a straight up 7.2 system. Branching out from here is where I am having issues.

1. It seems that the rti a9's are very power hungry. Parasounds seem to be the power amp of choice, and I have my eye on an HCA-2003A at the moment as it delivers 3 channels of 220W at 8 ohms, which seems to be the sweet spot for these speakers.
2. This leads me to need a receiver that is capable of handling pre-outs, which to me seems like Marantz is a solid choice (as it is always a solid choice, but even more so here). The Marantz SR5011 seems appropriate in this situation (I'm pairing this with an LG OLED B6P 65 inch for reference, so I want a modern AVR for HDR compatibilities, etc.).
3. I have my eye on the HSU Vtf-15h mk2 for a sub, which might push me out of my budget, but I wouldn't mind waiting a little bit in order to purchase them in a month or so in order to get a really nice sub, possibly getting two in the distant future.
4. That leaves me with not much left over for the 2 surrounds and 2 height channels, which led me to lean towards the t15's due to their cheapness, yet not awfulness, which seems feasible considering this setup is mainly for HT. In order to achieve the height effect, the general plan is to mount them on tall bookshelves near the ceiling and point them down towards the sweet spot in the room. I don't know about timbre matching between the rti series and the t15's, but as they are the same manufacturer and one set is being used for the front stage and the other 4 are being used for surrounds/heights, I don't see that being an issue.

So I guess my main question is, are there any gaping flaws in my approach that I am missing? Are there any gains to be had for less or nearly the same amount of money? Is there anything I am leaving out? I appreciate you guys taking the time to read my massive wall of text, and I look forward to hearing from you all!

Comments

  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,086
    That room is not really big enough to accommodate a 7.2 setup, nor would I worry about Atmos. In my opinion stick with a five channel setup.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • atrus
    atrus Posts: 12
    If that is the case, it might be worthwhile to grab a pair of A3's instead of the four T15. Better timbre matching, and probably significantly better surround quality for the five channel setup.
  • atrus
    atrus Posts: 12
    I noticed those and have considered them, but am leaning towards the A1/A3 for two reasons:

    1. I love the cherry finish on the rtia series in general, and if I'm gonna drop an extra hundred or so, having a full matching set would be better (IMHO) than not.
    2. I have no real experience with monopole vs. dipole vs. bipole, but from what ten minutes of googling has told me is that dipole/bipoles create a bigger "sweet spot" if they don't get messed up by the room dynamics, but monopoles make for a really nice, simple, albeit smaller "sweet spot." I pretty much plan on sitting in the sweet spot for the majority of the time, which is why I'm currently leaning towards the A1/A3.

    Feel free to correct me if I'm sorely mistaken!
  • chumlie
    chumlie Posts: 8,658
    Love the sweet spot. Your good with The A1's or 3's. Sounds like a nice setup your putting together. That Parasound will do wonders with your front end.
  • rpf65
    rpf65 Posts: 2,127
    When dealing with surround speakers, you should consider their job. Although most people use direct firing speakers as surrounds, bi/di-pole speakers work much better. I've tried both.

    Reason being is that surround speakers main duty is ambient information. For instance if the characters the scene is focused on are having a conversation in a restaurant, you mainly want to hear their dialogue. Of course hearing only their dialogue would be pretty unrealistic.

    This is where the surrounds come into play. Other people are also talking, as well as glasses clanking, dirty dishes being stacked, etc. sending these to the surrounds gives the audience a more realistic experience. By sending it a more diffused pattern, you get more a sense the size of the room.

    Same goes wth doors slamming, off screen, insect/animal sounds, traffic noise, and so forth. Not that direct firing speakers can't do this well, it's just that bi/do-pole speakers do it better.

    If your budget doesn't allow the FXI A6 consider the A4's. Like you I like the cherry RTI A series speakers. Originally had the A3's as surrounds and A1's as rears. Decided to take advantage of a sale and tried the FXI A6, even though they're black. Probably wouldn't even have gone 7.1 had I bought the FXI A6's to begin with.

    Whatever you decide, the most important thing is you like what you hear. Good luck.
  • atrus
    atrus Posts: 12
    This is exactly what I was looking for, thank you for the information. I am going to try out the fxi a6s and see how it goes. One last question, would there be any preference between the parasound hca-2003a and the b&k reference 3220? They both deliver 3 channels of 220W at 8ohms, but aside from that are somewhat different with respect to THD and frequency response. Which is better or is the difference negligible?

    Thank you all for your help!!!
  • Sorry I'm a little late to the party. I own what you're currently interested in such as the Rtia9, parasound, b&k and the fxia6. Great choice of amp for the speakers. They are different in sound so you'll have to be the judge and listen to both of them. B&k+ rtia9 = neutral. Parasound+rtia9 = same like the b&k but the high is a tad brighter but not by much. This is by my judgement so take it with a grain of salt. Hope this helps.
    Epson 3020 projector. Da Lite screen. Oppo 103. Yamaha CXA5000. B&K 7250ii. HSU VTF2. Def Tech Supercube 4000. Polk Rtia9 CsiA6 FxiA6. Monster hts 2600. Home theater.

    Bedroom consist of NHT model 2 powered by Parasound hca1200ii coming from my computer.

    Stuff laying around. Too much to list but don't want to sell either.
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    edited November 2016
    atrus wrote: »
    I noticed those and have considered them, but am leaning towards the A1/A3...
    Sorry for my late arrival to your party.

    Should you commit to RTi A1 or A3, see my "Rti a3s wall mounted as Surrounds"

    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/173492/rti-a3s-wall-mounted-as-surrounds#latest

    Brackets are rated to 33 lbs - important as the A1s & A3 are 11 & 16 lbs respectively.

    They're easy & extremely flexible to focus those bookies into your listening space. For safety's sake make sure you have at least 1.5" or more into a stud. I used two 4" deck screws per speaker through a small 2 X 4 painted satin black. W/out which I couldn't get the angle necessary to prime seating.

    Tony

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • Spot on choices for making the A9's sing, and the HSU works great to compliment their already strong bass output.
    Up
    LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000

    Down
    LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
    Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
    Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500

  • Dmega
    Dmega Posts: 83
    Maybe a bit late but I've run 5.1, 7.1 systems and they don't come close to even a 5.1.2 atoms setup. I'm currently running 7.1.4 atmos driven by anthem mrx1120 with the rtia9, sc60, psw125 but looking to replace the surrounds with better voice matching bookshelf speakers possibly Rtia line or the cheaper line.

    I don't have a lack of power with my setup but having Preouts on the receiver probably mean you are getting a mid to top line plus flexibility which is good. I like the anthem obviously but have had good experience with denon. I would also look at the marantz.

    For comparison sake my room is 11x19 so it's similar to yours with another half of the room being about 9x9. The 9s in stereo are deep and loud and I'm not driving hard at all. But the sub really helps as they can go lower than the 9's.
    Speakers: Polk - Front RtiA9 - Center Csi6 - Surrounds RtiA1 - Heights Sc60 - Sub Psw125 +SVS PB2000
    Power: Anthem MRX1120 11 ch. Atmos/dtsx receiver
    TV: Vizio m70c3 4k led TV
    Player: Philips bdp7501 uhd player
  • atrus
    atrus Posts: 12
    I'm actually about to make my purchase, thanks to all of you guys' help among other people.

    Going with rti a9 as L/R, csi a6 as center, marantz sr5011 as receiver, hsu vtf-15h mk2 as sub, and I'm going to go with the fxi a4s (a6s are currently sold out on best buy and from what I've heard the main difference is a better bass response on the a6s, which will be made up for with a solid dedicated sub). Until I find a proper used parasound power amp I plan on bi-amping the rti a9s on the marantz, which leaves no slots for atmos, but when I do get a power amp I plan on upgrading to atmos and getting a pair for that. Does anyone recommend an rti or fxi speaker pair for atmos?

    I'm also curious about a choice of speaker stand for the fxi a4s. Thanks!
  • Dmega
    Dmega Posts: 83
    atrus wrote: »
    I'm actually about to make my purchase, thanks to all of you guys' help among other people.

    Going with rti a9 as L/R, csi a6 as center, marantz sr5011 as receiver, hsu vtf-15h mk2 as sub, and I'm going to go with the fxi a4s (a6s are currently sold out on best buy and from what I've heard the main difference is a better bass response on the a6s, which will be made up for with a solid dedicated sub). Until I find a proper used parasound power amp I plan on bi-amping the rti a9s on the marantz, which leaves no slots for atmos, but when I do get a power amp I plan on upgrading to atmos and getting a pair for that. Does anyone recommend an rti or fxi speaker pair for atmos?

    I'm also curious about a choice of speaker stand for the fxi a4s. Thanks!

    It is not recommended to have dipole or bipole speakers for atmos asper dolby. Better to go with bookshelfs. I'm almost 100% certain I will go with the rtia1.
    Speakers: Polk - Front RtiA9 - Center Csi6 - Surrounds RtiA1 - Heights Sc60 - Sub Psw125 +SVS PB2000
    Power: Anthem MRX1120 11 ch. Atmos/dtsx receiver
    TV: Vizio m70c3 4k led TV
    Player: Philips bdp7501 uhd player
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,465
    I would not bi-amp them speakers either. I tried it with my RTI8 and did not see any improvement other than another wire running to the speakers. Get some good Furez 10awg from Doug http://douglasconnection.com/Furez-10-AWG-2-Conductor-Speaker-Cable-Raw-FZ102.htm for the front 3 and 14awg for the surrounds http://douglasconnection.com/Furez-14AWG-2-Conductor-Speaker-Cable-Raw-FZ142.htm

    You will like the HSU sub... your neighbors might too :)

    Please post on how you like your setup. I was thinking of getting the Marantz 5010 to replace my Sony ES.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    edited November 2016
    To OP
    mrloren wrote: »
    +1 on gauge, indifferent on your flavor (brand) of choice
    mrloren wrote: »
    ...14awg
    NOOOooooo! Even if your surround amp is located near/between* surround speakers, as I suspect it is NOT - minimum 12 gauge**.
    * like mine ** currently 12 ga; 10 gauge following a bi-amp mod/rewire

    Check my sig - I practice mo' bigga mo' betta wire.

    If you can't $wing heavier Douglas cable, I urge you to consider Blue Jeans 10 or 12 gauge - just a few cents per foot more than some of PE's offerings. Otherwise you're "leaving performance on the table."

    Merry CHIRSTmas, Luke 2:7-14
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • atrus
    atrus Posts: 12
    I actually already purchased a set of cables from monoprice (please don't burn me at the stake). Going to give them a shot and upgrade at some point later in the game as it was absurdly cheap and if I retire them soon I won't even feel bad.

    I also purchased the speakers (minus the sub and amp, still looking for a good deal on the amp and need another paycheck to feel comfortable enough to grab the sub lol) and they should arrive next week. Its gonna be quite a learning experience!
  • atrus
    atrus Posts: 12
    I noticed a guy selling a parasound hca 1200ii on the forums here. That seems like a pretty solid amp to pair with the a9s. Am I correct in assuming that?
  • Parasound and RTi's is a lovely combination. Power, Current, and the Parasound mellows the RTi's a bit. Everything they need.
    Up
    LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000

    Down
    LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
    Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
    Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500

  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,086
    Imagine if your walls and ceiling could be lined with something like 1ftx1ft sectional electrostats. Then you could have 50.50.50.50.50.2 (front, back, left, right, ceiling, subs). 5.1 would become completely unexciting and worthless.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • atrus
    atrus Posts: 12
    Nightfall wrote: »
    Imagine if your walls and ceiling could be lined with something like 1ftx1ft sectional electrostats. Then you could have 50.50.50.50.50.2 (front, back, left, right, ceiling, subs). 5.1 would become completely unexciting and worthless.

    I don't understand the relevance or what you are saying :/
  • Atrus the parasound will sound great with the a9. I have the a9 and that exact parasound amp but currently the a9 are hooked up to my B&K as it's a 5 channel used for movies night with the wife and kids. Buy it, you won't regret the combination of pairing the two.
    Epson 3020 projector. Da Lite screen. Oppo 103. Yamaha CXA5000. B&K 7250ii. HSU VTF2. Def Tech Supercube 4000. Polk Rtia9 CsiA6 FxiA6. Monster hts 2600. Home theater.

    Bedroom consist of NHT model 2 powered by Parasound hca1200ii coming from my computer.

    Stuff laying around. Too much to list but don't want to sell either.
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    atrus wrote: »
    Nightfall wrote: »
    Imagine if your walls and ceiling could be lined with something like 1ftx1ft sectional electrostats. Then you could have 50.50.50.50.50.2 (front, back, left, right, ceiling, subs). 5.1 would become completely unexciting and worthless.

    I don't understand the relevance or what you are saying :/
    Ditto

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    Atrus: if you have the cabling (size included) to experiment w/bi-amping go for it.

    The RTi A7s & A9s* are a challenging load full range. They're both more reactive than the other RTi series speakers. They drop to 4 ohms in their lower 2 octaves and one or two other places in their impedance plot not to mention the back EMF from 3 & 5 drivers respectively
    * especially

    I'm curious to know if you:
    connect your forthcoming P'sound to just the woofers and...
    AVR driving just the MT*, would they* sound better?
    That is compared to AVR full range or bi-amped, no P'sound in the equation.

    Merry CHRISTmas! Luke 2:7-14
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,724
    Nightfall wrote: »
    Imagine if your walls and ceiling could be lined with something like 1ftx1ft sectional electrostats. Then you could have 50.50.50.50.50.2 (front, back, left, right, ceiling, subs). 5.1 would become completely unexciting and worthless.

    I get it.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk