To Plinth or Not to Plinth (Subwoofer dilema)

So I snatched up the Outlaw Audio LFM-1 for my loft. I got it calibrated with ARC and it sounds quite good. Its on a wooden subfloor upstairs.

It is a downfiring sub, and with the spikes it comes with which are pretty substantial (see pic below) it barely is taller than the carpet.

outlawsub3.jpg
outlawsub5.jpg

I'd like to give it some breathing room but I dont think taller spikes are really the ticket.

My idea was to find some sort of plinth of granite (like a lefover piece from a kitchen sink cutout), wood (cutting board, etc) and put it underneath the sub to squash down the shag of the carpet allowing the ports and the driver more room to breath.

Is this something you'd do? What would you use to do it? The sub is 15" wide x 22" deep so I dont think they make a ton of floor tiles that size, so I'd likely need a custom piece of stone. I also dont know if they make cutting boards that big, so I'd be in the same boat...

Thoughts appreciated.
"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)

Comments

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,556
    edited November 2016
    most will say you're going to need to spike the piece under it also. Why not get some threaded rod and spike it through the carpet to the height you are willing to live with?

    a friend of mine did this then used black pipe foam to go around the rod to hide it.

    Do you know what the thread pitch (metric) or Threads per inch and diameter of what you have now?

    I have used Appliance leveling feet in a pinch BUT they are flat on the bottom and will not pierce the carpet. They are like .99ea at Menards
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,593
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    most will say you're going to need to spike the piece under it also. Why not get some threaded rod and spike it through the carpet to the height you are willing to live with?

    a friend of mine did this then used black pipe foam to go around the rod to hide it.

    Interesting concept... probably the easiest bet to do. I could even keep the existing spike just put a longer piece of thread (with PVC covering it) between the spike and existing connectoin point in the sub.
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Do you know what the thread pitch (metric) or Threads per inch and diameter of what you have now?

    Not a clue.

    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,504
    I'm gonna go with isolation. On a suspended wood floor you usually try to decouple the speaker/woofer from the floor.
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,593
    Found this for the LFM-1 PLUS, so I'd think it holds true for this model too...

    The height of the spike is 1.43 inches.

    The threaded rod has an outer diameter of 0.23 inch, with a pitch of 0.036 inch
    and a TPI of 26.

    Its still all greek to me lol...
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,593
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    I'm gonna go with isolation. On a suspended wood floor you usually try to decouple the speaker/woofer from the floor.

    So you'd think something like a Auralex subdude then?
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,593
    edited November 2016
    I also found this where a guy put a granite slab under his stuff basically exactly like what I'd want to do...

    He has two pictures of it here

    However he's got a concrete pad underneath as opposed to the wood subfloor I have
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,504
    edited November 2016
    I also found this where a guy put a granite slab under his stuff basically exactly like what I'd want to do...

    He has two pictures of it here

    However he's got a concrete pad underneath as opposed to the wood subfloor I have

    If he has concrete floors he can spike, unless he is concerned about cracking the concrete...lol I'd love to have my turntable racked on a concrete slab. Only thing you have to worry about then is airborne vibes.

    On my hardwood I've used wood bases with insulated footers, speakers had spikes to the bases. It cut down on floor vibes significantly. You'll have carpet under the granite, correct?
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,593
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    I also found this where a guy put a granite slab under his stuff basically exactly like what I'd want to do...

    He has two pictures of it here

    However he's got a concrete pad underneath as opposed to the wood subfloor I have

    If he has concrete floors he can spike, unless he is concerned about cracking the concrete...lol I'd love to have my turntable racked on a concrete slab. Only thing you have to worry about then is airborne vibes.

    On my hardwood I've used wood bases with insulated footers, speakers had spikes to the bases. It cut down on floor vibes significantly. You'll have carpet under the granite, correct?

    Yes. This sub is on the second floor loft, so I have carpet and then a wooden subfloor.

    I'm not so much worried about ensuring the subfloor doesn't bounce a bit as much as that the driver can properly breath, which requires getting it a bit above the shag of the carpet. And if I can do it in a way that makes it sound a bit better, then thats a added bonus.

    That said it looks like it would be cheaper to just get another Auralex isolation platform for 63 bucks shipped to my door than a piece of granite cut and then spike it.

    But I'm also cheap, so open to other suggestions. I like Ivans, but the spikes that are included still aren't sharp enough to pierce the carpet, but if I got some threaded rod and filed it down to a point (what I think he's suggesting) then it would.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,593
    edited November 2016
    Went ahead and "splurged" and ordered the Auralex Subdude HT. It ended up costing me little to nothing since I sold my MiniDSP to offset the cost.

    Like the way it looks better than the Auralex Gramma v2 since its got no logo. Its 3" wider than I need, but the dept is perfect. The Gramma was the perfect width at 18" but was 1" longer... but I'm OCD about clean looking gear and the logo would bug me even if not visible.

    Subdude HT:
    SubDudeHT-large.jpg

    Gramma v2

    GRAMMAII-large.jpg


    Thanks all for your thoughts!
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    Nothing wrong with decoupling. I was going to suggest stacking two each of these rubber feet that I used: https://www.parts-express.com/penn-elcom-9106-rubber-cabinet-foot-25-dia-x-1-h--260-772
    $1.78 each and they are meaty and strong!

    Would just need some long screws and some washers.
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,593
    WLDock wrote: »
    Nothing wrong with decoupling. I was going to suggest stacking two each of these rubber feet that I used: https://www.parts-express.com/penn-elcom-9106-rubber-cabinet-foot-25-dia-x-1-h--260-772
    $1.78 each and they are meaty and strong!

    Would just need some long screws and some washers.

    The sub already has spikes so it wouldn't help much.

    The subdude arrived today and I am getting a longer Blue Jeans Cable LC-1 tomorrow so I can put it where I want.

    Then one the stands come in I will post some new pics

    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    Well, I'm a day late so the it won't help much....

    ...but the ideas was to remove the spikes and replace them with the stacked feet for good isolation and height.

    ea236f4f-8126-43ca-8653-efd16e5dc305.jpgc89cb330-cb3e-4f4c-b489-a10940de6e62.jpg

    ...very effective at decoupling just the same as risers and pricy rubber feet.

    31b46r85veL._AC_SL230_.jpg

    Anyway, Dan, why do you post these questions up? It seems that you already know what you want to do and you are quite particular. I can be the same way at times..my family tells me that often.... :)
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,593
    edited November 2016
    WLDock wrote: »
    Anyway, Dan, why do you post these questions up? It seems that you already know what you want to do and you are quite particular. I can be the same way at times..my family tells me that often.... :)

    LOL... because I agonize over decisions and sometimes it helps to know I'm not making a massive mistake lol.....

    Plus normally I'm looking for a cheaper alternative, which doesnt exist or a google search would have turned it up... but sometimes I get a out of the ballpark suggestion, so its worth it.

    Plus I'm like a OCD squirrel with ADHD on crack falling into a nut factory.....

    OMG its a acorn, OMG its an acorn.... wait is that a walnut, OMG is that a buckeye.... wait, is the acorn better than the walnut, which has the better flavor..... which do I grab first.... which do I grab first..... Wait what was I talking about again?
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    That's funny! I do remember you saying you go back and forth on decisions a lot. Nothing wrong with making sure you are sure. Shipping fees and restock fees are not fun. LOL!
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    Better to measure twice (or three times) and cut one, than be like "no matter how many times I cut this board, it's still too short".
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

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