Subwoofer recommendations to go with TL-upgraded Monitor 7C speakers?

WTS

I am getting my Monitor 7C speakers up and running (as discussed in another thread) after some years of nonuse.

It would be nice to have more bottom octave information available. I reflected on this as I listened to some pipe organ music (E. Power Biggs) earlier today.

What subs would you recommend, that would dovetail well with my speakers, and supply usable bass down to 30 (or even lower) Hz?

I'm not looking to shake the house. Nor do I want to disturb my downstairs neighbor. I just want to add depth to the sound, so I can hear the musical information down there. I am a musician, and the fundamental of my instrument's lowest note is about 28 Hz. It would be nice to hear those tones reproduced, rather than being limited to higher harmonics.

Powered or unpowered? If the latter, I'll probably have to buy an amp for it as well. I don't want to stress my current NAD 3155 too much.

What should a realistic budget be? I'd rather not buy one, than buy a mediocre one. But I don't have a budget to buy something very expensive.

The sub does not have to be vintage, although it certainly can be. I'm open to suggestions for both new and used items.

I put the message over here since the 7C speakers are vintage. Feel free to move this message if appropriate.

Nightfall

Your downstairs neighbor is going to hear a subwoofer, even an inexpensive one.

WTS

True. I don't mind if he hears it, as long as it doesn't disturb him. (Even more importantly, he doesn't mind if he hears it, as long as it's not too loud and intrusive.)

That's subjective, of course, but my guess is that certain designs may be more disturbing (downward-firing?) vs. others (forward-firing?). True?

What are people's thoughts about matching a sub (or two subs?) to the Monitor 7 speakers?

Nightfall

One persons not very expensive is another's "No way, too expensive.".

Most recommended subs here are REL, SVS, and HSU. I'm pretty sure that @Rick88 is happy with his little Sunfire sub. Those may all be over your budget though, depending on what it is. You could check Craigslist.

WTS

Good point. Let's say $1000 or less. (Substantially less would be preferable, if the quality is there.)

That's why I asked what a realistic budget is. If everyone were to tell me that it's not worth looking at any subs under, say, $2000, then I'd pass. But if the consensus were that I could get the results I'm looking for for, say, $500, then I'd place the order on Monday.

Are there certain models that are generally felt to be a good match? Or are most modern subs flexible enough to match to my speakers?

I have checked Craigslist. I've seen, for example, about half a dozen Polk subs FS there. Several are associated with used HT speaker sets.

I'm asking here because I am still on the steep slope of the learning curve. I'm not clear, besides for a few general recommendations such as yours, which are considered a good choice for music, vs. a good choice for HT but not so good for music, vs. good for both, vs. not worth looking at, etc.

Or, am I on a wild goose chase? Would I be better off without a sub?

lawdogg

How healthy is your 3155? Have you ever replaced the caps? I wonder if more power into the 7C's would obviate the need for a sub, but maybe not if you're looking for a flat signal to 30Hz. Not sure the 7Cs can get there with any amount of current. But the 3155 has a great amp already.

Anyway, honestly, I'd go with the best used sub you can find locally. Chances are you can find a suitable powered sub used locally without even scratching the bank. Where are you located?

(Personally, confronted with a similar need for bass from my 3.1TLs, I found an ads MS4U locally, 12" powered 250W, and it shook the whole dang house 80Hz and below. But then I grabbed an NAD C370 to use as an amp, 120wpc with tons of current and 3db headroom, perfect for Polk impedances, and no longer need that sub ...)

westmassguy

The Monitor 7's -3db is 40 Hz. An SVS PB1000 or PB2000 Sealed Sub should compliment them perfectly, depending on your room size. Sealed is generally faster, tighter, and more accurate than ported, which is what you want for 2 channel.
Give SVS a call, and they'll help you select the correct model for your room size, listening habits etc..

WTS

lawdogg wrote: »

How healthy is your 3155? Have you ever replaced the caps? I wonder if more power into the 7C's would obviate the need for a sub, but maybe not if you're looking for a flat signal to 30Hz. Not sure the 7Cs can get there with any amount of current. But the 3155 has a great amp already.

My 3155 has never been opened since I bought it new in the '80s.

With one exception, it seems to be working fine.

The exception: the right channel of speaker "A" may not be working. It seems to have no output. I currently have the speakers hooked up to speaker "B." But the problem may be an intermittent problem in the speaker wiring, not the amp -- not sure yet. It's on my list of things to diagnose.

But, as you say, the 7C speakers were never designed to go that low.

Who is recommended to do work on an NAD amp, if needed?

lawdogg wrote: »

Anyway, honestly, I'd go with the best used sub you can find locally. Chances are you can find a suitable powered sub used locally without even scratching the bank. Where are you located?

Upstate NY. I have my eyes open, but I'm still learning what to look for.

Nightfall

https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/ele/5752803131.html

WTS

That looks nice, but I can't get down to Brooklyn anytime soon, alas.

WTS

lawdogg wrote: »

How healthy is your 3155? Have you ever replaced the caps?

Update: I figured out the problem with my 3155. It's the speaker switch. It has a rotary switch that can select, left to right, A, B, off, A+B.

If I hook up the speakers to the A posts, and set the switch to A, there is no sound in the right channel. But if I set it to A+B, there is.

If I hook up the speakers to the B posts, I get both left and right channels, whether the switch is set to B or A+B.

lawdogg

Sound like it might need a little cleaning - check out DeOxit, costs around $10 a can, and will clean the switch contacts off if you spray it on and turn the switch back and forth to mechanically clean it.

TNHNDYMAN

PM sent @WTS