SDA CRS budget build.

xschop

Buckshot wins...... I assumed someone can still stack dimes on their weld work.... Silly me.

HzTweaker

This project caught a little unexpected traction last weekend thanks to the newest member on our team at work.
Solid 1"x1"


3/8" Tube



Satin primered

lightman1

Dead sexy, Matt! What are you using for de-couple?

HzTweaker

Thanks dude, haven't made it that far yet. I'm open to suggestions.

ken brydson

HzTweaker wrote: »

This project caught a little unexpected traction last weekend thanks to the newest member on our team at work.
Solid 1"x1"


3/8" Tube



Satin primered

BLACK PAINT???

lightman1

ken brydson wrote: »

HzTweaker wrote: »

This project caught a little unexpected traction last weekend thanks to the newest member on our team at work.
Solid 1"x1"


3/8" Tube



Satin primered

BLACK PAINT???

Imported or "black" market I suspect.

ken brydson

All Black Paints matter...

HzTweaker

I'm guessing everyone that has commented doesn't object to the slight modifications I choose to make over the originals, But I'd like everyone's option on the finish (for real). Should I keep them original to the character that exist (just primered) or make them the closest to the original finish from factory?

F1nut

Why are there what appears to be uneven layers of paint?

HzTweaker

That is "slag" wasted remaining bits that are on the steel and are most apparent and highlighted after painted(still only primered). Maybe @ER308L can back me on this. All the materials used to make these stands were ordered from a steel company. These are one of a kind SDA CRS stands.

F1nut

Gotcha. So, time to break out the sander.

HzTweaker

^^Noted.. & I'm with yeah. Within the next couple of weekends that I'm off perhaps I can work on the "imperfections" but it is also so close to the holidays and I already have current obligations(projects with my car) that may limit my time. This is an on going project for sure.

F1nut

I don't know, but a textured paint may hide that. The original stands have a mild texture finish, but they are baby rear end smooth underneath. Don't ask me how I know....lol

HzTweaker

These are unique stands. Everyone's option where counts.

[Deleted User]

Yep good old mill scale. It's like a natural protective scale that's produced during the manufacturing process of hot rolled steel. However it's hard to weld over, machine, grind, and most of all paint over. That's why it's all ways good practice to clean off all or as much as you can before applying a finish.
Unfortunately the primer it's self will even have a difficult time holding on to the mill scale as the years pass. You may find the paint chipping off. It wouldn't take more than an hour or so with some 35grit/80grit on an orbital or DA to clean it up.
As Jesse said with a textured paint you can easily achieve that original powder coat look, as well as hide any small imperfections. Good work man lookin' pretty schnazzy!

leftwinger57

Tweeker, seeing that you got a new fabricator is obviously a good thing. With saying that if you were dead in the water stand wise the very person you bought those RDO-194s from is indeed a fantastic metal fabricator. Yes, a wee to late but if one asked TOOLFAN he just might of built you a set for a fair price. If you never heard of Larry's Rings that's were they all came from. As just said, maybe a black powder coat would cover up the slag if it bothers you that much. Nice work though.

RandyCroissant

With that kind of work invested, Iwould opt for media blasting then powder coat instead of paint just my 2 cents.

TennMan

It will likely take hours of sanding to make it look smooth with gloss black paint. Flat black would be a better choice to hide imperfections. That scale you see on the metal after painting is one of the drawbacks of using hot rolled steel versus cold rolled steel tubing that has a much smoother finish.

RandyCroissant

Rustoleum makes a product called Hammered look, I've used it hides imperfections really good. Also comes in!! should I say it!!

machone

RandyCroissant wrote: »

With that kind of work invested, Iwould opt for media blasting then powder coat instead of paint just my 2 cents.

^^^

HzTweaker

Thanks for committing guys. Stay tuned for the fished product.

xschop

The cold-rolled steels don't have that slag. It would be cool to see them in a crinkle finish; that would cover the surface imperfections.

halo71

HzTweaker, I could have built those for you. I'm in Georgia though. Shoulda ground the steel down. Then used a polishing wheel prior to painting. I believe most of what you are seeing in the uneven paint. Is the anti corrosion coating put on from the factory. We have to remove that when doing full penatration welds.

HzTweaker

^^ For sure. I'll keep ya in mind next time I need something fabricated. It's always nice meeting new Polkies. Before applying the paint we used a pneumatic sander with a pad that looked like blue steel wool. I mite work on them a bit more on my days off this week. I appreciate all the finish ideas for these stands.

xschop

VHT Wrinkle Plus. I did a set of Vette valve covers and couldn't tell the difference from a powdercoat.