How to blend in multiple subs? Multiple room eq?
Joey_V
Posts: 8,552
Just thinking about adding subs to my 2ch system. I want it to be a seamless foundation rather than adding something overbloated, etc.
How do I run multiple subs with some EQ?
And can multiple subs with self-eq (like JL or Velodyne) run a sum total EQ (each one can tune to the room response, but can multiple at the same time)?
I'm hoping I can have a multitude of subs into the system to really lay the foundation. Although at this time, it is already sounding extremely good and balanced even in the lower registers.
Thnks guys
How do I run multiple subs with some EQ?
And can multiple subs with self-eq (like JL or Velodyne) run a sum total EQ (each one can tune to the room response, but can multiple at the same time)?
I'm hoping I can have a multitude of subs into the system to really lay the foundation. Although at this time, it is already sounding extremely good and balanced even in the lower registers.
Thnks guys
Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R
Comments
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I've been fairly involved into multiple subs for home theater for several years. Got into the 2 channel game, was anti-sub for a while, picked up a nice sealed sub as an experiment, now have 2. Played with lots of eq and it does help (mini dsp, anti mode, xt32 pro, with rew). Only sub I've used with its own onboard mic and eq was a polk micro pro 3000, which I didn't like what it did with its eq. My system sounded great, then I added a sub and was like, "holy crap I've been missing out." Dual subs is always the way to go!
If anything I've learned over the years is room treatment and proper placment trumps eq. Eq can only do so much in a troublesome room, both together are great, my dual PB ultras with xt32 sounds phenomenal. Yet my "small" 2 channel system with small subs and no eq, but with a **** ton of room treatment trumps it. I have spent countless hours moving the sub a little bit here, and a little bit there. If you have a dedicated room the end result is very rewarding.2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
Mikey
I've had experience with velodyne's DD series and I liked what it did for the sound when I was playing around with it (it was my brother's sub).... placed the microphone at listening position and ran the tones and it spat out the graph and we got to play with the graph in real time.
I just need something like that with multiple subs running at the same time.
Not sure if getting multiple Velodyne DD series 2 or JL Audio Fathoms would do the trick.
Otherwise, I'd look at REL G series or maybe take a few of the SVS SB13 Ultras if there was a good multi-sub EQ system that I could use.
A few SB 13 Ultras would be good.Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
Joey
I have spoken to Rythmik in Austin a couple types about sub integration, and Will more than likely work with them.
I was originally looking at the JL Audio CR-1 crossover for the integration but here was Enrico's response....MiniDSP have even newer and improved models than the one he listed.
Ron,
I would hold on the CR-1 until you try the subwoofers with the onboard controls. The C4s play down to 30Hz but I would crossover around 50Hz to take some stress out of the speakers. In that case you can send full range signal to the speakers and full range signal to the subwoofers and set the low pass filter on the subwoofer at 50Hz/24 and the crossover on the subwoofer at 50Hz as well in order to get 50Hz with 24dB/octave slope. Then set proper delay/phase on the subwoofers. If you like the results, which I know you are gonna love it, you can save $3000 on the CR-1. Another option a little bit cheaper but IMHO more effective than the CR-1 is the miniDSP DDRC-88A which come with Dirac Live room correction system and can handle up to 8 channels. In your case you can have the two C4s + the pair of subwoofers and set delay/phase, levels and EQ for each one independently. The miniDSP DDCR-88A is $1000.
2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
All the subs you mentioned are awesome. I haven't heard the JL subs in person, with exception of the E series, which for the price I wasn't blown away by them. I had 2 SB ultras and wish I had kept them for music purposes. One day when I have the space I will get them back. EQ does work, for me though I have had better results with room treatment. It is nice to have eq that you can tinker with. Knowing myself, I obsess over details, so that is another rabbit hole I don't need. Hahaha2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
Mikey and Ron,
I appreciate the comments and tips.
Ron - explain it again to me in plain english - what exactly are these products you mention? Would I need an active cross over to cut out the bass on my towers?
Mikey - good point with the E series JL Audios. I know, all those subs I mentioned are good, would love to have any combo of them.
I am glad to hear you liked the SB13 Ultras as I think they might be a good value at that price point.
How many would make for a good set of SB13U?
I was thinking of getting 6 SVS SB13 Ultras. Just to keep the stress levels down on each sub but still have near infinite head room. I've seen rooms with a six pack of REL G1, but I don't think that would be a wise financial splurge. If I can get 95% of the foundation with 6 SVS SB13 Ultras as I would a six pack of REL G1, I would be a very happy camper.
The system is honestly sounding near fantastic at this point. All my hard work is paying off.Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
Six?! Lol wish I could hear that... I had two in a fairly large room (20x20) and I was certain the glass mirror in the bathroom at the back of the room was going to break from the wall flexing. And this was in a basement on a cement slab.2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
Yeah six - haha. You had 2 right? I'm sure that was a difference from just 1.
I am in the process of acquiring a good size lot and will be building in the next 2-3 years (am going to take my time). I am looking to build a dedicated room with double sheetrock walls, etc... probably looking at 25x20 room. Definitely would need the six pack at that time... but could definitely start the process of integration in a few months. Maybe if things are good, would purchase the set early 2017.... I have a good relationship with my local dealer. I would buy all 6 and demo at home, then if ok, will keep all 6.
Maybe I can convince the wife that this is my birthday gift - ha.Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
txcoastal1 wrote: »Another option a little bit cheaper but IMHO more effective than the CR-1 is the miniDSP DDRC-88A which come with Dirac Live room correction system and can handle up to 8 channels. In your case you can have the two C4s + the pair of subwoofers and set delay/phase, levels and EQ for each one independently. The miniDSP DDCR-88A is $1000.
https://www.minidsp.com/products/dirac-series
https://www.minidsp.com/applications/digital-room-correction/ddrc-24-for-2-1-system
https://www.minidsp.com/support/community-powered-tutorials/201-dual-sub-integration
.....and six of the sealed 13" Ultra's will run about $9000. Can do six of the sealed 15" HSU ULS-15 for $4500! Combined with the MiniDSP unit for $1K you will have massvie clean bass potential and room correction for the whole rig!
http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/uls-15mk2.html
http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/uls-15mk2Dual.html
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/review-hsu-research-uls-15-mk2-subwoofer2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2 -
I don't know if you've had a lot of experience with the caliber of subs you are talking about, but a lot of different configurations work for what you want to do.
Six SB13 ultras is undeniably overkill, and that may not matter, but the amount of room they will take up is something else to consider. They are big and deep.
Also, there are other subs in the ID world that have great reputations if you are looking for real *bang* for your buck. HSU Research is probably the most value-laden of the bunch. Before I picked up Mark's PC-13 Ultra I was planning to buy a HSU for my new basement. The ULS 15 mk2 or the VTF 15 mk2 are both good choices.
Seaton Sound is another good option - the owner has been around for a long time with other companies, and with his current venture for years as well. He makes huge subs that perform amazingly. You can also chain subs together so that they use the same, huge amplifier, which produces some cost efficiencies compared to every sub having its own amp.
Having six subs will help even out the bass - but you'll hit diminishing returns quickly after two subs. I'd love to see six PB13 Ultras in a room, but I have a feeling there's a reason it's seldom done. -
Six is double over kill. I had 2 in a 20x20 basement, with 10 foot ceilings, a hallway at the back of the room that opened up to a bedroom, bathroom and laundry room. I had them running hot for home theater, and they absolutely crushed it down there. I would say 4 would do the trick. 2 stacked, more than enough2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
Good to hear Mikey... perhaps six might be overkill, but I doubt 4 would.
Paradoxex - 6 PB13U, yes, that would take a tremendous amount of space. However, 6 SB13U I don't think take up that much space if you can stack them.
The main thing is not to stress the subs, low volume, low distortion, low excursions... divide up the required amplified sound across 4 or 6 subs and get them to integrate. I think it would be fantastic.
Here is a picture of Rockport Cygnus with a 6 pack of REL G1.
Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
Another picture with SF Stradivari and REL G1 sixpack.Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
What I'll probably do is the following:
1. I need to figure out the best way to integrate and control the outputs of multiple subs.
2. I will probably start with the dealer delivering all 6, then we work our way down. I'll stack them, integrate them and see A/B at 6 vs 4 vs 2 in my room does. Then if 2 is the sweetspot, then I'll be happy to return the other 4. If 4 is the sweet spot, then I will return 2.
Best way to test something is in your house on your terms.Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
txcoastal1 wrote: »Another option a little bit cheaper but IMHO more effective than the CR-1 is the miniDSP DDRC-88A which come with Dirac Live room correction system and can handle up to 8 channels. In your case you can have the two C4s + the pair of subwoofers and set delay/phase, levels and EQ for each one independently. The miniDSP DDCR-88A is $1000.
https://www.minidsp.com/products/dirac-series
https://www.minidsp.com/applications/digital-room-correction/ddrc-24-for-2-1-system
https://www.minidsp.com/support/community-powered-tutorials/201-dual-sub-integration
.....and six of the sealed 13" Ultra's will run about $9000. Can do six of the sealed 15" HSU ULS-15 for $4500! Combined with the MiniDSP unit for $1K you will have massvie clean bass potential and room correction for the whole rig!
http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/uls-15mk2.html
http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/uls-15mk2Dual.html
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/review-hsu-research-uls-15-mk2-subwoofer
WLD - thanks!
The stuff with the Dirac... I can use that with multiple subs daisy chained and I don't have to touch the response above what the subs handle? I don't want it messing with the FR of the main speakers. Where does the dirac get plugged into the system? At what part of the chain? After the DAC before the preamp? Or is it soemthing that comes out of the line level out of the subwoofer outputs of the preamp so as to not touch the 2ch signal to the mains?
Also, with regards to HSU, does the ULS15mk2 run with the SB13U? Just by analysis of the woofer, although significantly bigger, not as "overbuilt" as the Ultra woofer?
My only worry is that 15" subs will be big.... the SB13U is compact, I've seen it in person. Stacking a couple or three in each corner is very doable.Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
Here is the comparison between PB13U and SB13U... the PB13U is way too big... the SB13U is just the right size.
If you can fit a cylindrical SVS in the corner, you can easily fit a stack of 2 or 3 SB13U in each corner.
Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
The size of the overall PB13U and HSU ULS15mk2 are virtually identical.
SB13U = 17.4x17.4x18.5 (without grille? FYI, the grille is pretty ugly)
ULS15mk2 = 19.18.19.5 with the grille, 18in cubed otherwise.
The amps on the SVS subs are pretty cool, but it doesn't sound like you'd use all the fancy digital DSP stuff if you used a miniDSP.
Also - https://www.minidsp.com/applications/home-theater-tuning/multi-sub-optimization-with-the-ddrc-88a -
I just think the SB13U is such a good looking sub... clean, simple, black gloss. And that woofer... *bite the back of my hand* good looking. And it punches quick too.Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
The size of the overall PB13U and HSU ULS15mk2 are virtually identical.
SB13U = 17.4x17.4x18.5 (without grille? FYI, the grille is pretty ugly)
ULS15mk2 = 19.18.19.5 with the grille, 18in cubed otherwise.
The amps on the SVS subs are pretty cool, but it doesn't sound like you'd use all the fancy digital DSP stuff if you used a miniDSP.
Also - https://www.minidsp.com/applications/home-theater-tuning/multi-sub-optimization-with-the-ddrc-88a
The PB13U is huge... 22.5”(H) 20.5”(W) 28”(D)
The ULS15mk2 does seem to be nearly same size as SB13U... probably just bigger an inch here and there. I noticed, no gloss black though. That would be a deal killer for me.Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
Here's one of my pb ultras.. And yeah they are huge..
Thought I would hate that curved metal grill. But in person it's very nice. Not to mention bullet proof.2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
I meant the SB13U in my post...sorry. Yes, the PB13U is massive. I would take one in a heartbeat though. No hate!
Joey, go get 6 PC-13Us instead! -
I meant the SB13U in my post...sorry. Yes, the PB13U is massive. I would take one in a heartbeat though. No hate!
Joey, go get 6 PC-13Us instead!
Hhahaha... No ports!
And 6 pcu... Would that double as bass traps since I'll just disperse them across the room? Hahaha
Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
Here's one of my pb ultras.. And yeah they are huge..
Thought I would hate that curved metal grill. But in person it's very nice. Not to mention bullet proof.
Yikes that's huge!
Which focals are those?Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
You could always go after one of these, and turn it into an end table...
http://www.deepseasound.com/products/mariana-24sc-24-subwoofer -
The stuff with the Dirac... I can use that with multiple subs daisy chained and I don't have to touch the response above what the subs handle? I don't want it messing with the FR of the main speakers. Where does the dirac get plugged into the system? At what part of the chain? After the DAC before the preamp? Or is it soemthing that comes out of the line level out of the subwoofer outputs of the preamp so as to not touch the 2ch signal to the mains?
One example would be to get give all six subs individual channel and two for your left and right main speakers. Yes, you being an audio purist are not fond of the idea of DSP in the signal chain. However, if you have such a powerful unit in your possession, why not try it to see how it sounds? Acoustic treatments mated with digital correction might be effective. Several companies like Legacy Audio V, Emerald Physics, Sanders Sound Systems are using it. Sanders swears much was improved when they added it to their electrostatic system. Their room sounded amazing at the Chi show this year.
Here is a one line diagram of the connection. The DDRC-24
https://www.minidsp.com/applications/digital-room-correction/ddrc-24-for-2-1-systemAlso, with regards to HSU, does the ULS15mk2 run with the SB13U? Just by analysis of the woofer, although significantly bigger, not as "overbuilt" as the Ultra woofer?
The ULS has always gotten great feedback in terms of sound and this newer version has more output.The ULS15mk2 does seem to be nearly same size as SB13U... probably just bigger an inch here and there. I noticed, no gloss black though. That would be a deal killer for me.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll147/MLdad/AVS/shiela-04-ULS-15.jpg
2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2 -
You could always go after one of these, and turn it into an end table...
http://www.deepseasound.com/products/mariana-24sc-24-subwoofer
What the...Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
The stuff with the Dirac... I can use that with multiple subs daisy chained and I don't have to touch the response above what the subs handle? I don't want it messing with the FR of the main speakers. Where does the dirac get plugged into the system? At what part of the chain? After the DAC before the preamp? Or is it soemthing that comes out of the line level out of the subwoofer outputs of the preamp so as to not touch the 2ch signal to the mains?
One example would be to get give all six subs individual channel and two for your left and right main speakers. Yes, you being an audio purist are not fond of the idea of DSP in the signal chain. However, if you have such a powerful unit in your possession, why not try it to see how it sounds? Acoustic treatments mated with digital correction might be effective. Several companies like Legacy Audio V, Emerald Physics, Sanders Sound Systems are using it. Sanders swears much was improved when they added it to their electrostatic system. Their room sounded amazing at the Chi show this year.
Here is a one line diagram of the connection. The DDRC-24
https://www.minidsp.com/applications/digital-room-correction/ddrc-24-for-2-1-systemAlso, with regards to HSU, does the ULS15mk2 run with the SB13U? Just by analysis of the woofer, although significantly bigger, not as "overbuilt" as the Ultra woofer?
The ULS has always gotten great feedback in terms of sound and this newer version has more output.The ULS15mk2 does seem to be nearly same size as SB13U... probably just bigger an inch here and there. I noticed, no gloss black though. That would be a deal killer for me.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll147/MLdad/AVS/shiela-04-ULS-15.jpg
Yo buddy
But I can still run the DRC just for the subs as well? My plan was to room correct for the subs, but keep the 2ch purely at 2ch. Cut the subs off at 35hz, let the mains go full range.
I like the idea of saving some money on the ULS15... most definitely. I bet I can get away with 4.
That said, the gloss does complete the look, although the woofers wouldn't look the same anyway even if I brought home the SVS SB13U compared to my mains, but the black gloss would match to a "T".
Either way, 4 or 6 of these subs, that'll be sick. The headroom would be massive and I would be running the subs nearly at idle. I'd probably just turn the subs on when I'm listening to hip hop or something.
I'm already trying to convince my local buddy to get 6 subs.... just so I can play with it in his system. HaMagico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
WLD
Question, I looked at the link, would I run the Dirac off the preamp or off the DAC?
Do you know if the SVS subs have some sort of a parametric EQ embedded that I can utilize and play with initially before investing in a Dirac?Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
I'm reading the SVS manual. If I have 2 sub towers, then technically, it would be like setting up only 2 subs. I could effectively run 2 subs, check the room response, and then adjust the SVS PEQ accordingly then run the rest off a similar PEQ, then run all 6 and check FR.
This might be easier than expected... if subs were located in 6 different locations, then that would be a freaking pain.Magico M2, JL113v2x2, EMM, ARC Ref 10 Line, ARC Ref 10 Phono, VPIx2, Lyra Etna, Airtight Opus1, Boulder, AQ Wel&Wild, SRA Scuttle Rack, BlueSound+LPS, Thorens 124DD+124SPU, Sennheiser, Metaxas R2R -
WLDock has some great info to go by Joey. Although I haven't heard the HSU mentioned I have experience with a VTF 15h mkii a friend of mine had, we both came to the conclusion my pb ultra Was the better performer (but for much more money (he has gone with JTR). we both thought the svs has an impeccable finish, you won't find a flaw on them. Svs subs do have the option to high pass the signal being sent to the the amplifiers via the line level outs, even my lowely sb 1000 has this.
Maybe add servo controlled rythmics to the list. They are awesome subs.
I think Ron and Walt have some really good info here, beyond my experience. These guys know their stuff.
P.s. The focals are Aria 926 in my theater2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
But I can still run the DRC just for the subs as well? My plan was to room correct for the subs, but keep the 2ch purely at 2ch. Cut the subs off at 35hz, let the mains go full range.
http://www.auralex.com/product/subdude-ht/
Will give the it a little more height and presence...the stack should be about 40". Some have reported improved clarity, output, and less resonance using one or the other. Both would be overkill...but why not for a heavy hitter like yourself...LOL!
Also, get Bass Traps for all four corners if you have yet to do so. The more bass you have the more the peaks get excited!
http://www.auralex.com/products/bass-traps/
2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2