XSchop's modded 5jr
Comments
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First off, apologies to you as I referred to you as Polksda in a few previous comments. I need more coffee.
On page 2 of the glue pic, It is most important that the glue completely surrounds old woofer, tweet, and port hole. The bridge between woofer and tweeter is rock solid on the previous set now as I checked with a screwdriver on the re-foam process. The edges alone would hold the plate with no issue as this glue is mega strong.
That said, I am taking your advice and removing the old woofer instep/base on this set as I know that the bridge will still be rock solid.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
Another mod previously not posted....
My Bosche right angle with 90° countersink I machined the shank to fit,
worked a charm at fluting the inside port. Smoothed it off with 220 sandpaper by hand.Post edited by xschop onDon't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
Last but not least, on this second billet plate set, I opened the ports up another 0.025" to 1.150 Diameter.
Reason being, the best tool to open up the factory port hole is a longer serrated-edge hole saw using the faceplate as a guide. Serrated edges are not accurate however. My new plates have a show quality finish that I don't want scarred when re-drilling the port.....
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
New Caps and resistors showed up. I'll start X-over mod tonight. Belt sanded the edges smooth with factory baffle and removed MW instep. I had to get new fine-tooth blades for my jig-saw. This MDF will chip easy if you use a coarse blade.....
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
Looks like fun !
I still have an extra pair of 5 Jr's that are a little more scratched up than my good pair and I'm thinking of changing out the stock tweeters for some 1962 Jensen horns that have lived in my closet for years.
I'll have to make an adapter ring to cover the stock hole. as it's too wide, but I figure if it doesn't work out, I'll just keep the woofers and crossovers for spares.
I just finished re-wiring the whole rig with pro cables and re-introduced my equalizer into the mix. -
What diameter is each horn where it would slip thru box?
The smaller diameter of the oval in the MDF is 2.85"
The top-bottom width of the SL-1000 plate is 3.05"
IMO this is a faux pas on Polk's behalf also.Post edited by xschop onDon't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
The interior flange hole would be 2"x6 1/4" , but the plate itself would have to be 4"x 6 3/8".
That would not only cover the original tweeter hole, but also the two grill snap holes, which would have to be removed anyway to accomodate the horn's flange.
If I was running your machine, I'd just make a whole new face plate and countersink the horn's flange an 1/8" and do likewise with the woofers.
(only another 1/8" for those)
More than likely though, I'll just go down to Michaels and make a couple out of 1/8" plywood doll house stock, then break the edges and paint them black. -
Ah OK. I thought you were talking about one of those small dia. Horn tweets that you just drill a hole to mount.
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
The only non "cheated" time aligned Polks are the RTA-12's
afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
Nice and substantial, I take it you don't need -6° stands for those either?
How would those compare to the 11T's?Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
Much easier and cleaner. I'm going to wrap them in foam this time.
Does it matter if the resistors are physically touching capacitors?
Post edited by xschop onDon't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.